Eug

check out the sound file thread for more info on exhausts and how they sound

i would say that is pretty much on the money. it's so weird seeing NA skylines worth the same (in some cases more) than the turbo ones.

pay what you want for it. compare it to the sponsor offers on this site or google around for some performance shops. search the forum for pod filters it's been done to death and there's really no need to repeat the answer to this every 2nd week. price wise it's ok... and you will get a slight woosh.

standard type m front bar.

nice... welcome bud.

i could never thrash an r34 like i would an r33... function over form in my case.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3872905 looks like its been sorted

spot on. however a project like this you will need to decide early on the tuner and his/her ecu of preference. then you will need to sit down with the tuner and the mechanic and discuss on the target compression and boost levels you want to run. each person brings something different to the table. tuner: the quality of fuel, how much compression, how much boost, ecu flexibility mechanic: what turbo to match, what needs to be upgraded you: cost and target as you can see it's not a single limiting factor, if you want to run high comp/high boost then fuel quality needs to be high. however you can sacrifice high comp for low boost, or alternatively low comp for high boost. it's all a dynamic package and one needs to compromise for another. however a general rule of thumb in a high comp/boost application is usually fuel quality which affects the tuners ability to do his job. we all live and learn. you can come away from it as a pioneer with an awesome piece of gear or you could come away from it with an empty wallet and starting back from scratch. got to love it!!! have a look at this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&hl=gcg they are all the RB-DET guys. you might be able to get some idea on the boost levels they are running on stock bottom ends with simple bolt ons. yes there are guys running 17~18 psi with bolt on turbos with low compression, not sure if you'd be able to get that high without a good tuner and fuel. no dramas. my personal suggestion. 1. set a budget otherwise a project like this will blow out of proportion. 2. find a really good tuner first, talk to them with about what you want to do and how you want to do it. find their recommendations (ecu, compression, etc.) see where you can compromise and where you cant 3. find a mechanic and work out what's do-able

it's a fuel quality/tune issue not a strength and/or supply thing. high compression = pinging, plus the high boost = more pinging you will damage any engine regardless of strength with pinging. as i said before the limiting factor is the quality of the fuel (and it's tune) not the ability to supply fuel. however that's not to say it's impossible. with any high compression/force induced system reliability (and a very good tune!) would want to be high on the list. 'worth' isn't a really definitive term. the questions to ask would be how far do you want to go? and how important is it to you? i think once you pass a certain threshold (what this is no one can tell you) the low compression engine will have far more potential to get more power. people don't normally go down this path as the RB25DET is a proven formula. it costs alot of money to be different now-a-days, if you crave the response (which i personally see as the only reason to go high compression/boost) a supercharger might be a good alternative. sorry if i came off a little judgmental. i'm just trying to be realistic here as quite often we get dreamers who think way ahead of themselves. however don't let my realism discourage you, it will help you critically think and assess all options before sinking too much money in. by all means if you think you can do it then do it - it is after all your car. VERY RARELY will you hear of stock RB engines taking those kinds of boost levels (17~18 psi) reliably. 10~12 psi would be pushing the stock turbo, anymore and you start to see failure. exhaust wheel failure is ok, compressor wheel failure obviously a big no no. since we are on the topic of internals let me just say that there are too many factors which contribute to piston, rod, crank, bearing failure, etc. have a look at what power levels people start rebuilding with forged items, that's a good starting point. if your internals are up to par the 'weak point' just shifts over to the next component. both high compression and high boost are the main culprits for exposing the weak links within an engine

the amount of money to balance the entire bottom end + forgies for anything over 7000rpm is the only thing that has put me off... maybe one day, i will throw one into a 240/260Z

just going to add my 2 cents here. i think you have answered your own question there... if the guys haven't posted in the power thread then they pretty much won't tell you if they did. are you kidding? pull any number out of a hat! i've got a pretty good idea how to make that kind of power with an NA RB and i've also got a pretty good idea of how much it will cost. lets just say you'll be looking at over $15K in parts alone. and no i will not tell how to make that much power. your mates are right. however i say do it and post it here - i dare you! take the leap and do the R&D for everyone. i don't think anyone is going to spoon feed you and give you a recipe on how to make that much power. that kind of power on an NA RB will involve alot of R&D and is certainly something they will hold close to themselves. however if you had SEARCHED the forums you might have found a couple of hints. does F1 count? bingo noelski young ones these days they aim high huh? i'm even tempted to lock this because it's just well... useless

comes down to the tuner and his tune. i already told you that the compression ratio will dictate largely how much boost you can run. by your above sentence it's apparent that you do not know about compression ratios and how to calculate them. the 'bolt ons' you mentioned above such as injectors, fuel pumps, etc. may increase the amount of boost you can run slightly, but it again comes down to the tuner. 17-18psi with high compression??? it's definitely do-able, but not without some really really good fuel and a really really good tuner. i suggest you do some reading up on compression ratios, how to calculate them and what engine parts dictate them. like i said before, strength wise they are the same - but the differing compression ratios between the rb25de and the rb25det will affect the boost pressure you are able to run. way easier to buy an rb25det and bolt that in. read above read above if you really want that much boost buy an rb25det. why do you want to run so much boost anyway? it seems you're just chasing a number. i'll state it again, go and do some proper research and learn more about compression ratios, boost pressures and how engines work. then you will be able to post some questions which don't make you look silly.

with stock brakes shouldn't be an issue

strength wise there's no difference. however the compression ratio will affect how much boost you can run. see the turbo charging thread in this section for more details on turbo'ing your NA, alot of guys have done it and all the info you need are in those threads. p.s. - that pic of clarkson is a bit creepy no?

Stu, I have spoken to a few people (LS1 R33 and an LS1 R34) and both of them were able to retain the power steering. Is the R32 GTSt engine bay narrower than the later models? Another option I have heard is to use the steering rack/front bits from a GTS4 or a GTR as they supposedly allow for more room to clear the front drive shafts/sump/diff/etc. Both the above cars used Holden mounts modified to suit, rather than the Nissan mounts you optioned for. Might affect clearance a bit? Hope that helps keep us posted. Cheers Eug

is his name Roger?

moving to drivetrain section so you'll get better views.

you and me both! shame they are so rare though... swap the S13 with a 240Z and you've got me sold

what the?? was that really necessary? pm sent

the 2.0 will totally rape the 2.5

fronts are 17 x 8 +37 and rears are 18x9 +31 i am confirming with my broker if the rear one is in fact 18" or not.

alright fun's over

would any of you guys be interested in these?

agreed the first pic looks like it's smiling at me

why have you replicated this thread?