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Eug

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Everything posted by Eug

  1. moved to suspension.
  2. there are plenty around, you just need to search harder. sites don't work - speak with drifters, drift suppliers, yahoo japan, etc. these are my new rims, cost a fortune!! 17x8.5 all round i also have a set of sparcos 17x8 and another set of 17x7
  3. too many variables for such a small difference. are you measuring ambient temperatures while you're doing this? the quality of the fuel? how did you calculate the fuel usage?
  4. 4 on idle 6 on WOT stock gauge is rubbish though. good for a quick guesstimate
  5. dxbgts33, since you are new here i will tell you now that i (we) would appreciate it if you did not repost. you have received your answer in a separate post which you have simply copied and paste. please do not do it again. /threads merged keep further questions regarding your fuel issue in the one thread please. cheers eug
  6. likewise... giving away free stuff should never be a hassle. unless it's a fatty
  7. you're all forgetting that a power figure (although the standard) is just a mere maximal power figure. 100kw @ 4000rpm will be a better drive than 117kw @ 5000rpm. 17kw increase at 1000rpm later, i know i'd take the driveability over the peak power increase any day. what about the other attributes, rpm? area under the curve? torque? etc. all the fact sheets for new cars provide a power figure in reference to which rpm it was measured at. 1000kw @ 20000rpm vs. 100kw @ 4000rpm plus the torque figure, you can do the maths. if you look at all the drag racing guys - they don't care about power figures anymore. MPH at which they cross the traps is what they are interested in. there's so much discrepancy in dynos now days that they don't care if you have 200kw or 400kw. and since i like to have the final word on things, i'd like for the rest of this thread to remain on topic. if you wish to continue this 3" kilowatt vs. response/torque debate, bring it up in one of the other threads. actually i'd rather no one did, because it'll be a repetition of what's been going back and forth already. everyone has their preference. if you want a kilowatt number to go off and tell others go ahead, if you want response then that is also fine, if you want to back up those figures with some drag/track/circuit times even better. that way we can at least draw some relationships between power vs. track time. cheers
  8. what he said. service the car, and if that fails bump the idle up a bit.
  9. never heard of them. i'd just stick with brands that have been proven and are known to work. NGK, etc.
  10. sounds like you'll need a surge tank. not really a common issue - but it does happen. i have no problems without one and i would think that i hold more sideways Gs than most people. 15 laps is a fair bit though, i would hazard a guess that the tank would be no where near full.
  11. it's fine. let me know when it's gone and i'll lock it.
  12. use the maxi ones for those heavy nights
  13. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/No...&hl=suction http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Lo...&hl=suction been covered before. please use those threads
  14. Eug

    Wrecking R33

    got a type m front bar? correct.
  15. called a cold start, richer mixture until everything is at operating temp.
  16. would you give someone who looked like that a test drive?
  17. moved to general discussion
  18. got any circuit times?
  19. yeah they normally send rims by sea. the nismos were light enough to send by plane but they had cost me an arm and a leg (and a left testicle) so i had to save a bit somewhere.
  20. been trying to keep them a secret for a while, they finally arrived (after 4 months). i mainly got them due to the lightness, the fact they look good is just a bonus. the light rim coupled with lighter again semi slicks should reduce my times massively.
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