Eug

agreed. there wasn't any real point in asking the forum in the end, ask the mechanic next time

silencer doesn't increase power. to put it simply, it'll make an overly large diameter exhaust smaller, i.e. 3" and by doing so increases the volumetric vacuum efficiency of said large exhaust. most exhausts have to be designed with a silencer. as for quotes, search the regular online performance shops or head down/call your local exhaust shop. simple. /thread to be closed.

that's pretty much it in a nutshell Cris. good man on what you said with smaller piping, that may cause back pressure also. just by breaking down the word literally should be more than enough explanation. if you have posted in here, there is no need to PM me. i will see your post in due time. good man, into the good books you go

it's not back pressure pharken!!

all those in favor of lock say "i"

troubleshoot it, there's nothing we can do unless you can give us something to work with. you've already stated some possible causes. it's a matter of crossing them off one by one.

just one pod?

LOL... what's with selling in here lately? i think, what SkyKC means by loss of power is in fact a loss of response or a feeling of gutless'ness. an exhaust upgrade usually does net a power increase, but in mild NA applications too big of an exhaust will reduce the volumetric vacuum/scavenging efficiency. an NA engine simply doesn't expel enough exhaust gases to fill a large exhaust (volume) at low-medium rpm to get any decent flow. this 'flow' creates a plunging (vacuum/scavenging) type effect which actually helps draw out new exhaust gases. i'm confused as to what you actually have in your exhaust system? stock headers? stock front pipe? 3" cat 3" catback with 4" tip. stick with 2.5" as a maximal guide for daily/sedate driving and try to keep the rest of the system the same size. i guess a search prior to buying/installing your cat back would have saved you time and money. i suggest you have a read through the forums on other people's feedback.

wow, coby are getting lazy. mine was in and out in 2-3 hours. in regards to joining to the cat, remember the stock cat is much longer than aftermarket ones. get me some pictures and i'll make sure partsco/coby knows about it. after organizing 4 group buys i would have thought they'd treat us better each time.

sorry to hear about your experience Cris. anyone else have this issue??? please let me know!! out of everyone getting headers this is the first negative report i've received. i'd like to know if this was a once off shabby weld or what. did you use the old (stock) head studs, washers, and nuts? not sure about your flange setup, do the headers angle down too steeply? or is the flange too big? could possibly be your engine mounts? with having the RB25 in the R32. in regards to the rasp/growl issue, did you previously have the stock mild steel headers? i did notice that the heavier metals in exhaust components to muffle it down a fair bit. better yet, before you bolt the intake back together take a picture of your welds and the bolt clearance. i'll have a few words with partsco and coby. eug

that's a very interesting tip! most 4 stud rims won't clear the bigger brakes anyway.

hmm... black lines in the city. you never fail josh *hi5*

bad luck mate. sounds like you were a target.

muffler or a collapsed cat? normally excessive fuel is the cause.

the teeth have basically worn down due to use, they skip over each other as they try to engage causing the click click noise. i've currently pulled my dash apart to fix it. it's not a small task, at least a 3 hour job to take the dash out. see attached, note the red arrow on the gear. the blend door motor is located right in the middle of the dash, above the heater box.

tiger show?

just watched episode 5, its okay. nothing spectacular i think. prison break, heroes, etc. all have that unsure element about them.

are there any chips available? find a supplier and find out.

wasn't qld opting to bring it up here?

pharken pewfs

you say it like it's a bad thing. you have pretty much answered your own question. please look at other exhaust threads for clarifcation.

RB25 ECU roms can be remapped, but their roms can only be burnt once, it's a pain in the arse to do. Rb20s are the pick for remapping. and dr drift is the man to do it. alot of japanese tuning houses fit aftermarket chips to the ecu. many imported cars have had speed limiter, rev limiter, removed, more aggressive tune, etc. most cars are basically 'detuned' from factory to meet emission standards. whether it be a restrictive intake or exhaust system to controlling of the fuel mixture. i suggest you go read up on how the ecu and other car components work together. here's a few links to get you started - plenty of info can be found searching the internet and forums. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ml&hl=remap http://www.drdrift.com.au/aboutus.php http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...cu-t205125.html

interested in finding out as well, since i offered more than the asking price.

this thread has come up before. i just confirmed it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/search.html&f=53 happy hunting

trying to get a fix for my blend door actuator. see thread for reference (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...-p-t162421.html). wanting to know if anyone wrecking an r34 can do me a favour and confirm if they are the same/similar? i suspect not, but thought i'd put it out there. attached pics thanks eug