Eug

as i said previously, check with your local state's rules and regulations into what you can or cant do. trying to hide mods is all good and all, but in the end you will void your insurance. also keep in mind alot of cars come from factory and don't even meet ADR requirements. you have answered your own question in the first post.

keep shaving it down until it's good. carpet will squish and provide a nice seal

sorry this is not a for sale section. i will move the thread to the classifieds, however i will leave a shadow link. eug

since we're all doing sideway pics

told ya so... bilsteins

appreciate the comment. i agree you for a mild setup 6x9s are perect, and yes you're right you will hardly be able to replicate a real sub. however the compromise is that one 6x9 speaker has a woofer area of slightly more than an 8" sub, times by two and you have enough bass for the average driver. hope to see more people doing this project. it annoys me how many audioshops/backyard installs complain how they dislike the look of spacers and end up hacking the parcel shelf without thinking outside the square.

the welded nut alone is enough to sell me! the RB26 guys will love those

exactly! my car has minimal asthetic mods and looks stock. never in my 4.5 years of owning it have i been pulled over because it was a skyline. RBT yes of course. don't drive like an idiot, don't attract attention to yourself and you're on a winning formula.

to do all that you will need some form of ECU. best check with your local authorities, it varies from state to state.

thanks. it is a shame i didn't make a template, however each speaker basket will be slightly different anyway. you are correct. i have mounted it on an angle, not so much as 90º though. if you look at the actual steel shelf under the mdf the holes are elongated length wise on an angle (kinda like a 'D' shape). you can see this in the 4th picture of the 1st post. this is what most people cut up to make them fit in the usual left to right orientation. not only is this illegal but it weakens your structural integrity because the struts are supported by the shelf. a side impact or even a strong hit to the gutter might fold the whole shelf!! by having the 6x9s angled, they sit much much deeper into the hole. i tested it out and with my particular speakers you could have gotten away with a 5-6mm thick parcel shelf and not required spacers. p.s. - can't remember how deep mine were. expect upwards of $400, thats what my friend was quoted when designing something similar. it's just a little time consuming, a great DIY project that won't cost you any more than $50~100 (not including speakers of course). you will also notice that using a solid MDF platform will enhance your bass and sound quality. i have by passed the treble frequency to the rear and often get asked if i have subs.

http://www.dba.com.au/2006/catalogue_start.asp this was a direct link from their site, unsure if they've updated or not. there are no 2007 or 2008 catalogs available that i can see. supercheap should provide you with a full refund, they basically sold you a product they dont have.

you're being quite vague. what brand? what series rotor? as far as i'm away DBA discontinued their R32 and R33 NA rotors (best you call them to double check). if so, give RDA a call and see what they have to offer. or even measure your rotors up and bring the specs to them to see what's available to match. one of the reasons why i have upgraded brakes, the NA market for brakes is quite small.

search in the NA section for our supplier (located in NZ, will do delivery to AU). or search the for sale section, there was one for sale a week ago for ~$300ish. it has been done to death have plenty of info readily available, which does not need to be duplicated due to laziness of others. unless you have found some new information or a local supplier/manufacturer - all further extractor/header threads will be locked. i will draw up a header sticky in due time. eug

agreed, nothing like a dirty filthy thrash car for rallies and motorkhanas

not ignition timing though! rotate the crank angle sensor.

you can advance timing without ecu... my opinion, unless you plan (or have) alot of mods to back it up the ecu wont give you the gains you are probably expecting. it is still going to be an additional 10~20 maybe 30kw. compression, port, polish, cam shafts, cam gears, intake work, extractors, will net you a sweet figure. remember the basic formula for power = air + fuel. remember in an NA system you cant just up the boost boost/air, the only way to do that is to make everything flow better, then you can add more fuel!!

plugs arent such a huge issue on an NA car. have you checked the afm, aac valve, tps, and all the other usual suspect items?

your set price is 300, if you want to run an auction use ebay. it's in the rules for the forum, please read.

that driveway is a piece of cake Rhys. i've seen steeper speed bumps. even stupidly low cars could take that on. take it on an angle, no dramas

that picture is hilarious!

just gave the guy a call. location is nsw rims are supposedly 16x7 couldn't find an offset sticker

sorry, must have glanced over that. regardless an aftermarket replacement ecu will give more flexibility in AFM choices which was obviously the limiting factor. supposedly the greddy RB25 plenums are made to go with a Q45 throttle body. plazmaman ones seem of pretty high quality too hypertune plenums 'supposedly' have even distribution of airflow (esp to cylinders 5 & 6) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/to...l&hl=plenum http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fl...p;hl=bench+flow http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...ght=plenum+flow happy readings

maybe i listened incorrectly? at least i now know.

don't need spacers to run 6x9s in an r33 parcel shelf a search here will show you how i did it

i heard from the tyre dude that if you have aftermarket rims on your rwd, it's advised that if you get a flat rear tyre to move one of the front rims to replace the rear flat and run the space saver on the front. seemed logical at that stage, considering the loads on the diff and driveshaft, etc. i didn't really give it too much thought. same apply in reverse on fwd?