Eug

bingo! his original idea was to run a single large AFM for two smaller T/Bs joined by a Y-piece, the restriction was the SAFC unable to handle to AFMs. not sure what he ended up doing? twin T/B -> twin AFM? or is it still the Y piece? also i still am not convinced with FF plenums, so my idea has not changed. the only FF plenum i would personally get at this stage without seeing some bench flow results would be the RB26 plenum, i believe the ITBs build up a little pressure prior to the runners and would create a more even distribution of air. who knows, maybe they'll work perfectly. the greddy ones (not copies) are worth a quite few pennies though.

hold up, just to clarify you currently have the twin RB25 throttle body setup correct? i can't recall exactly (nor could i search for it), but i think Don had an issue in regards to AFM. i think it was that the OD of the RB25 afm was too small for a Q45 throttle body and made the whole thing redundant while using an SAFC. however you are right, if you are in fact opting for a full replacement ecu than the Q45 would be the go as you have a wider range of AFMs to play with. i was too lazy to do the number crunching before, but i did and the difference is quite marginal 90mm OD Q45 T/B = 6361 sq. mm 54mm OD RB25 T/B = 4580 sq. mm (times 2) and like you said it is equal to approx. 76mm OD T/B, which comes in around 4536 sq. mm you would be stupid not to go ahead with it! possibly might notice a shift in power band into the higher RPM and slight decrease in response, the shorter pipe work and cubic capacity should balance that out nicely though. i could be bias and just love high revs p.s. - the way to tune for VCT is to do a dyno run with it disabled, and do a run with it enabled. overlap the graphs, where they intersect one another is the ideal point.

saw a guy selling 2nd hand coby's for $300 in the for sale section. keep us posted and when you get a video clip, post it in the sound thread eug

i'm going to pick on you here just because you have typed without thinking... you've basically answered your own questions here. what you want to do and how you want to do it is your choice. but when you look at it from a more mature, financial, 'was it worth it?' point of view. your 10 second car is just an excuse for a hypothetical penis extension you're already looking back in retrospect. well done. concentrate on what's more important and logical. we can all have dreams, but one step at a time eh? and that ladies and gentlemen brings me to a very happily locked thread. eug

bench flow tests have shown that some forward facing plenums have uneven distribution of air to each cylinder. while it's not such a big issue with forced induction due to pressurized air, i would hazard a guess that it might give more negative effects than positive. it really depends on the quality and R&D behind the product. Don has invested a fair bit of time and effort into the twin throttle body setup, would the Q45 would flow less than the twins?

3 grand for a turbo conversion is very do-able, provided you have some know how and can do the labour yourself. with all the parts ready (ecu, manifold, turbo, lines, pipe work, intercooler), it can be done in a weekend. double the cost if you pay someone else to do it. not even close. provided that there might be a $15K 10 second skyline combination somewhere, but you will not be able to do that reliably. expect upwards of $30-40K as a general rule of thumb. 10 seconds is easy, some people are just cheque book racers nowadays. go to shop xxxx throw around $40K and bingo you have your car with xxx RWKW and a 10 second machine. they don't really end up racing professionally it simply becomes a bragging point. the guys who take it seriously and who you really want to check out are two.06l, 2rismo, na_r33, giant, jas/slo32, bu5ster, etc. have a look at this thread for timeslips: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...try-t91916.html it seems to be that you're simply chasing a number, because you can/want to. start with the basics and work your way up. learn to control the car and it's dynamics, how it reacts when you break traction, in the wet, under brakes, etc etc. eug

agree with both of Skit's points. engine vibration is obviously transferred through the damper and you are better off changing your engine mounts before buying a damper

it's not on the first page, but do you happen to have the 'blend door actuator' in very good working condition?

wouldn't really bother unless your producing bucket loads of torque or hit boost hard.

that is a hot HR31 - got pics?

john (NA_R33) has, it is/was a non turbo r33 how long is a piece of string? more power, new engine, suspension work, weight reduction, the list goes on. to answer your question simply, yes. what are your limitations? if it's money than don't bother. you have answered your own question. a 10 second car isn't cheap, even by force induced standards. expect to spend at least double for an NA build. as a reference the ferrari enzo runs a low 11 second and the mclaren f1 runs a mid-11 seconds. cheapest most cost effective 10 second 1/4 mile non turbo vehicle would be a motorbike. i have seen your threads around various parts of the forum, it's understandable that you are new to the whole modifcation/car scene. however a little self research and study doesn't go astray, people will not spoon feed you with a formula that works. i suggest you search and read up on things a little before you post threads, in a few months time you'll be looking back in retrospect going 'what the hell was i thinking' i'll let this thread run a little while longer eug

the ecu is only going to be as good as the tuner. speak with some tuners and see what they specialize in/prefer. my pick would be the power FC or the microtech

results please guys. please include your mod list with your dyno charts and power figures to prevent confusion.

worthy upgrade in what regard? dyno? racing? street? response? the higher profile would suit dyno/high rpm/racing applications. you will be able to keep your nvcs with the hks camshafts, however you will need to have an ecu, tune and recommend upgraded valve springs. i also think that a full port and polish on the head would be best to extract their full potential. getting the stockers mildly reground is by far cheaper, some form of tune/ecu/piggy back is also warranted. mild camshafts would also be better suited for the street. there was an extensive discussion about it (i think by inthisglass) floating around the section somewhere. while it is impressive on stock internals, it is no longer naturally aspirated in the literal sense. dan (dan666) turbo'd his r34 gt back in the day. an extensive write up can be found here How to turbo the RB NA motor

the price is right if you are happy with the product, it's impossible for anyone else to judge without having a look at it. best you go to whoever is supplying you with it and inspect for yourself. this is your typical "how long is a piece of string?" question. loudness will depend on what other components you have, the quality and material used in those other components and the cannon. mild steel? stainless steel? titanium? etc. tip size does have some affect on how loud it is. as a very general rule of thumb, the bigger the tip the louder.

what are you asking exactly? best post your question in the relevant state section. i will move it if requested cheers eug

agreed, way too expensive for a cat. i got a highflow metal cat for no more than $200

thread locked, you know why. do not post a thread like this again

chris you have pm

i'm in need of choosing a 4 channel amplifier and speaker cables. is there any rule of thumb in terms of determining which gauge wire to use for the speaker/amp combo? (i.e. is it dependent on RMS or MAX?) been doing some research on gauges, impedance, ohms, amps, fuses, etc. and the Aeropro 4 channel kits seem to be what i'm after. a run down on my current setup. deh p4650mp (has only 1 rca pre-out. should i upgrade to maximize my 4 channel potential?) 35W RMS 4ohms (220W MAX) fronts 6" 40W RMS 4ohms (260W MAX) rear 6x9" would i select for amp rms to match speaker rms (at matching ohms?) few points i need clarification on. the smaller the number (gauge wise) the thicker the wire and the higher the resistance. correct? you would want to use the thinnest cable suited for your system's power. correct comparing the 8ga and 6ga Aeropro kits why is the trigger/remote cable & speaker cable thicker in the kit with the thinner power wire? which of the two kits would suit me best, i'm guessing the 8 Ga.? i have no intention of upgrading nor do i want a sub cheers eug

hey there greg, thanks for the kind words, have appreciated your help and input likewise over the years. shame about your exhaust, i so would have taken it prior to you changing your mind to send them interstate. unfortunately i've got one now. as for the v35, do it! john (NA_R33) has got a coupe - and my god is it awesome. all the best with future plans. eug

since you're from england, i'm not sure what you designate to be the 200sx. but here in australia, the 200sx is the s14/s15 with the sr20det motor. all the silvias use the ca18de(t) or sr20de(t) engines. i have never heard of the rb gearboxes being interchangeable.

as far as i'm aware, the r33 gts25 gearbox is the same as an r32 rb20det

didn't notice any improvements with the addition of front and rear strut braces on the 33. maybe a little rigidity at the track, but definitely no improvements on bodyroll. placebo effect quite possibly?

respect is earned, not given by the looks and sound of an exhaust system. you should invest in an exhaust for the car. try to search around the naturally aspirated section on what other people have done and their results (click here to search). if you want high peak power at high rpm, get a large exhaust. around 3.0" will do. if you want response and a usable power band, get a 2.25-2.50" exhaust data and information in and around the forums is readily available from other owners who've done various mods. it's a typical how long is a piece of string question, there are so many types of systems available, hks, fujitsubo, nismo, x-force, custom systems, etc. find one you like and get it. to get you started here are some links. sound files of various skylines with various exhaust systems http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/so...&hl=exhaust some threads similar to what you're asking http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ex...&hl=exhaust http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...er-t188789.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Si...et-t184920.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...&hl=exhaust http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ex...&hl=exhaust http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...&hl=exhaust http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...&hl=exhaust http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fo...&hl=exhaust that should answer your questions plenty. anything specifically that you can't find, feel free to start a new thread. the following statement is not directed at you, it is a reminder to everyone posting in regards to anything. too many 'what XXXXXX should i get' threads, put it simply if you can't put the effort to do the research for your own car then you probably shouldn't be owning a skyline. you can get advice and constructive feedback, but you can't get other people to choose for you. that's the whole point of modifying and customization - no one is going to spoon feed you. p.s. - thread locked.