Eug

you must have read over the part where i said i wasn't keen on a crappy 2nd hand replacement. my dash is apart already, i know what's involved in tearing the thing apart and i DO NOT want to be doing it again a year later when the 'wreckers part' fails.

existing thread merged.

you would be paying more for the metals used and the brand name. hks would be stainless steel, who knows what the custom one is

i havent been able to find cheaper re55s in brisbane than amec either.

chasing blend door actuator (is the car actually an S2 or S1?) is it in very good working condition? let me know cheers eug

did you end up finding a replacement? not too keen on a 2nd hand replacement, it'll be just as worn as the rest of them out there. anyone know if r34 (newer) are interchangeable?

do you have the defi din gauges or just 3 defi gauges in a din pocket? i.e. i have a few questions about the din gauge

chasing a blend door actuator in very good working condition. would prefer one from a late model series 2 r33. pm me with a price cheers eug

chasing a 'blend door actuator' in very good working condition. price?

hi and welcome john. i see you have found the power results thread, i'll leave this open as an introduction/questions thread that you may have. if you could amend your thread title accordingly that would be great. any questions you may have please try searching around the forum first (click for search function) if unavailable, ask away. cheers eug

shouldn't need an octane booster if he's running 98 ron, that's just a bandaid solution. back the timing off like cara says. and yes get someone who knows what their doing for a mechanic

the glue behind the glass can melt/soften in the heat and simply fall out. just buy a 2nd hand one and use some decent glue

google search helps. http://www.option1garage.com.au/ArcherfieldDrift.htm

i've got a small write up at home somewhere saying that VG pistons fit, and bump up the compression a bit. i'll try to find it alternative is buy a second hand set and have them rebalanced or even RB30 ones.

should we start an lmgt4 club? give the nankangs a go, it can't hurt. however i have found that only the more premium brand and model street tyres perform well at track days. even then they only last a few hot laps before you see your lap times getting worse and worse. i was paying around $250-300 per corner for some high end yokohamas that would last around 15-20,000km (street and track). money better spent on track rims with semi slicks.

off would be which ever accelerates fastest

yeah, definitely not cheap - try having 4 sets of rims! tyres are definitely on my no expenses spared list though. one set for street, one set for motorkhanas, stockies for drag (which i just sold the other day) and a set of nismo lmgt4's which are somewhere on the atlantic. hello re55!

try to make tyres a priority... they are the only thing keeping you on the road regardless of how much/little power you make. federal 595 is a well priced good performing tyre, check em out.

i spin 255s

try searching 'workshop' in the qld section. you'll get plenty of results there. thread moved.

i read somewhere that the holes need to be drilled out a little bigger or one hole wasn't able to be bolted down. cara might be able to confirm

i believe the fronts are 280mm, don't quote me on that. part of the reasons i did a caliper/rotor upgrade! there is hardly any pad/rotor variety for the stockers!

whaaat?! wierd, sorry beau at least they're being tracked down.

tap it/shake it to see if it's hollow. backfiring (proper term afterfiring) normally degrades your cat.

sumitomos