Eug

it's ideal, but not essential. since you guys aren't doing track work it won't be such a big deal.

the larger diameter rotors will not fit your original calipers. larger brake booster is ideal yes. you might need to do some mods to get your inner drum handbrake to work with new rotors (rear)

actually Scott I had just re-read what I wrote after I submitted my post. you must have been quick with the quote button!

the RB waterpumps are interchangeable in regards to DE and DET. you would be after the DET NEO one. i just did mine last month, no point doing it if its working or if your constantly at high revs/temps/etc it's advised you change it at 100,000km as you have to take off the timing belt to access it. here's a forum sponsor selling them http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...vi-t137554.html

has it just started doing it? have you done any mods recently to cause it? i.e. spark plugs, exhaust, timing, etc? it's not exactly normal, but also not surprising. the fuel mixture does normally run rich in the high rpm range.

new ticket system where they don't give you one hey!? i'll leave some trading feedback for all you guys. thanks for understanding karl.

I see Karl has got his! Beau, please call the number for Aust Post and track yours down! Did they bother to leave you guys any delivery notices?? I'm sorry about the delay it was totally out of my hands. Eug

nice work on the troubleshooting there Si. a bonus in getting response from the splitfires! i happily take back my previous statement to you. i do agree though, your colder climate may have different effects to us here in Oz and might require extra maintenance.

nice work on the troubleshooting there Si. a bonus in getting response from the splitfires! i happily take back my previous statement to you. i do agree though, your colder climate may have different effects to us here in Oz and might require extra maintenance.

moved to drivetrain/transmission

those part numbers are unique to NGK plugs. a seach on the forums (and google) would have confirmed that. Greg has already listed out the NGK numbers (with a link!!!!) on the forums: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/N-...amp;hl=platinum ALSO NGK (http://www.ngkspark.com.au)states: so judging by that, the PFR5G's should be platinum NGK have a table listing out the benefits of having different metals reference link: http://www.ngk.com.au/pages/product_spark.htm p.s. - all 3 threads merged! please post in existing threads in future and search a little more carefully cheers eug

any competent workshop (i.e. one that actually does in-house work/doesn't contract out their jobs), a known engine builder or machinist

Beau, there was an attempted delivery at your specified address on the 24/12/2007 at 13:47PM Karl, yours was attempted on the 27/12/2007 at 11:44AM please check if an 'attempted delivery receipt' was left asking you to pick up from your local post office. you both have been PM'd with tracking numbers!

ginger (david), i have merged your exhaust thread with another already containing sound/video clips. try to keep it all together ok? cheers eug

beau, i chased it up with coby last friday - awaiting a response. yourself and karl are the last two to receive them. GTR.2NV also lives in Vic and has gotten his. i'm not sure why you haven't, do you live a bit out of the city center? karl lives over in WA so it might take slightly longer. i'll keep you guys posted when i get a reply. in the meantime make sure the postman hasn't left a delivery ticket that someone has accidentally put aside/thrown out. PM sent to both of you to re-confirm addresses. eug

pm sent karl.

nah, definitely not any 'valves'. i can see the motor clicking along as it tries to change the direction of the vents. so far all of the people i have spoken to with the issue seem to be series 1 owners. i want to find out if it's purely an age/usage thing which accounts for the lack of series 2 owners with the issue, or if series 2 R33s have a better/different 'blend door motor'. and quite possibly try to have a look at the R34s if possible i've pulled it apart and the unit consists of: 1 worm gear and 4 cogs/gears, with one of the gears attached to the arm. on one of the cogs the teething has worn down to the point that they are barely interlocking with the adjacent cog. and another has a bent (almost broken) tooth. i can see an easy solution by rotating the worn cog ~180º so that the worn teeth won't be engaged (tested by manually moving the arm). this however won't work for the other worn cog as it is the one attached to the swing arm. might be lucky with matching a cog at a hobby shop, but kinda stumped about the worn cog attached to the swing arm. will post pics when i get a spare minute.

1st Q: what tyres? 2nd Q: what condition are they in? 3rd Q: is this regular driving or on the circuit? check this site out for a few pointers http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm

thought i replied to this when you first posted. apologies Si. yes we are unable to view the pictures without registering and having at least 1 post. if you could copy and paste what you've written into your first post, and attach all the photos onto our database it might make it easier for everyone. the AFM should always be the first (or one of the first) places to look for any sort of electrical power issue. as they are quite sensitive. coilpacks normally degrade/crack after high temperatures, usually not experienced with NAs and more so turbo motors

nice work guys. nick, i agree QR is a very power demanding track. even for circuit work you need a fair bit of power to push through the corners. i do a little bit of motorkhana stuff and i agree the clutch does cop a fair bit of abuse, but contrary to what everyone says about having buckets of power to 'powerslide' a corner, i have found suspension setup and technique is more important.

auto is normally preferred for drag applications. what did he actually modify, the gear box ratios? or the diff ratios? both are worthwhile drivetrain mods if you don't mind sacrificing in other areas. for example, if you swap to a shorter ratio you will accelerate faster but at a sacrifice for lower top speed. useful for drag racing as you only travel 400m. for a street car it can be a pain if you wish to go on the highway, etc. hardcore track cars normally have specialized ratios suitable for a particular circuit. can be done for both manual and auto gearboxes. final drive ratio can also be changed, auto skylines have a shorter differential ratio to manuals, a simple mod for manuals is to throw in auto gears.

i cant tell if your being sarcastic cara auto will win consistency wise, yes.

thanks for the correct name. i'll have another look at the actuator, but initial glance the teeth look fine. might check if a series 2 or an R34 one is compatible

bump for an old thread. i've pulled my dash out and i've found the culprit, it's a little motor which slides to change the fan direction to face and/or feet and/or demister. the problem is that when the pin adds or removes the feet from the fan setting, it doesn't stop and continues to try and open up the vents. i've opened it up and none of the cogs/gears are mis-aligned, just seems like it doesn't know when to stop the motor. doubtful it's something you can buy from nissan. don't like the idea of buying 2nd hand either. short clip to the stepper motor (~4MB) http://users.tpg.com.au/eug430//r33_climat...ntrol_click.wmv any ideas on a fix or new motor?

i'm with dave, looks like they knew what they were after. the problem with the car scene is that alot of people freely share knowledge about what they have/next mods/what's in the build/etc with complete strangers they just met. a little discreetion doesn't go astray.