Eug

i agree, unless it's been blocked off via gasket/welding/grout filled there should be oil in the gallery. is there residue oil in the gallery? have you tried to see if oil comes out without using the oil lines? possible blocked oil lines? (creased/folded/blocked banjo) maybe the head doesn't have the oil provision? that would be bad. the conversion has been done heaps of times, i can't see why albii's should be any different.

is there even any oil in the gallery? is the head off the block? or is it all still together on the car? if the head is still on, maybe the gasket has no holes for that particular gallery. did you try to rev the motor quickly to increase oil pressure?

1. the type of noise will depend on the material used. i would guess that something light like titanium would give a metalic sharp sound, whereas something like mild steel will give a deep growl. 2. the muffler type; straight pipes, twin pipes, single cannon, etc. 3. no cat/gutted cat will make it louder, a cat will add to the muffling effect. regardless i'd say the effects of cat or no cat would be minimal. what you're after can be achieved via cat back. what type of loud are you after? think about the metal's properties and density. my suggestion, if you're not concerned with too much power loss; a 2.25" exhaust with a 4"/5" stainless steel/titanium exhaust. i'll let the thread stay, on the condition that you alter the title and the sub title with appropriate headings and tags so others can find it for future reference cheers eug

why would you go from 2.25 to 2.50? the exhaust is only going to be as best as its smallest section. a set of 2.25" extractors would mean the outlet size correct. i would budget for at least $1000 for a full exhaust. no one is going to spoon feed you with what and where, not to mention the price. any muffler or cat you want or what you have available. call your exhaust shop and get some quotes. i will merge both your threads together. please keep it in the one thread.

i think don is your man. head to r31skylineclub.com and try searching there.

aussie post mate

you could have some crap stuck in there causing the blockage? i am 99% sure those are the correct provisions, compare it against an RB25DET just to confirm it. i don't want to be the reason you have a failed turbo.

as attached. if the provisions aren't there - drill and tap.

Neta Tyre Service & Sales 6 Spiers Street Northgate QLD 4013 Phone: 1800 803 532 http://www.federaltyres.com.au/dealer

jarrod is on the money. the advantage of an rb26 head is the individual throttle bodies. take off the forward facing plenum and put on some adjustable trumpets. i agree; big lumpy cams and the butterflies open running at full song would give anyone the shivers.

moved to for sale section.

nice one cris!! hp coating is exxy. getting mine done cost me almost as much as the headers themselves. i would suggest some form of heat insulation, as you will not be able to use the standard heat shield. merry christmas guys and girls

actually if you want to get into specifics, a fuel reg, regulates the fuel pressure cara you will see added benefits of a fuel pump if your old one is dying/isn't pumping enough fuel.

semi slicks are just like a bolt on mod.

i like that black jldtuning one

Si, let me know if you need a hand with a local contact in dealing with them. they are a registered forum trader so you shouldn't have any problems.

finally got youtube working. that does sound impressive! it doesn't have the rasp, are you running resonators?

i have heard that cutting the speed wire has caused some people to get erratic steering issues at high speed. possibly hicas? easiest and safest way is an SAFC. p.s. - lock your hicas regardless, it's crap:P

hey there glen. in case you were unaware we have a thread stickied to share power figures. thread link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Na...-E-t138169.html i am happy for this thread to stay and for everyone to share videos, etc. provided that everything remains legal, occurs on the race track and/or private property eug

mintex does sound promising.

if you only knew what happened my end! some strongly worded but polite phone calls from me requesting updates, confirmation of fund transfer, shipment date - etc. i've requested the black for everyone, if we get it then bonus - if not then it'll be the 'coby orange'. it just depends if they have any paint in stock. i have called coby directly and asked them what paints they are using. they have told me that they ARE NOT using HIGH TEMPERATURE paint. the paint is merely for rust, storage and aesthetic reasons. i personally advise everyone to strip the paint back and go over it with caliper/high temp spray cans or get them hp coated like i have. leaving the coby paint shouldn't do any harm either. please be patient with christmas delivery. some of you guys might be lucky and get them early, some might get them in the new year. regardless all buyers have always received them.

do you not believe me or something? it looks like a stock engine bay, except for silver extractors and a strut brace. i'll run out and take one when i get my digital camera back from parentals (being christmas and all).

did your auto electrician friend manage to solve the problem?

i ran a pod, heatshield and CAI for about one year. Went back to the standard airbox with a decent panel filter minimal difference between the two, if i can't notice it doing skidpans and track days - then doubtful anyone would on the street.