
Eug
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Everything posted by Eug
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bauhahahahaha... rofl @ whitie
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thanks to the majority for behaving.
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what a load! you guys find out before i do! this'll be my cherry poppping lock then. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- this is cara's thread with already a bit of discussion on exhausts, more specifically a 3" exhaust on an R34GT link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Dy...hs-t194796.html here are a few others for references to exhausts and cannons. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Exhaust-t189530.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...er-t188789.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Si...et-t184920.html here's a link to the search page if you wish to glean some more information. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/search. anything you cannot find searching, feel free to start a new thread.
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Quick Question - What Offset And Width Are Stock N/a Rims?
Eug replied to UNR33L's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
check the inner cast of the wheel. they should be 15x6" with a +40mm offset -
How To Get More Power From A Naturally Aspirated (na) Engine
Eug replied to Eug's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
i know what you're saying, but the forum already has a suspension and handling section. the turbo and non-turbo variants share the same (exception R34 Sedan) suspension setups, everything in here would just be a duplicate of what is already available in the appropriate section. i am myself a suspension and brake nut, however this part of the forum is non turbo. too much lowering and it will handle like crap. ideal heights are 355/345mm (front and rear respectively). some good swaybars should sort out your body roll. see the suspension thread, sydneykid's bilsteins are top notch. i run them. let's leave this thread for power applications and things specific to nonturbo shall we? -
R33 Type M Rear Pods
Eug replied to scarface's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
pm sent, i'm in brissie. -
first post updated karl. i think the bling factor alone is close to worth it not that i have any grounds for comparison, but my engine bay seemed cooler than with the stock headers on. try whitepages or googling locally, that might help. ok, i've got 4 definites - and a lot of guys have said yes/definitely/for sure, etc. but none have been able to simply reply with an order or even a guesstimate. if i get no further interest by the end of next week, i will be ending the buy prematurely and proceeding with the order. please check the first post to ensure i have the correct order. cheers eug
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anna, it's called hardening the f**k up... you've done well lol... he needs a bit more of a handicap than that!!
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wait till jay hears about this hahaha drive what?
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hey, how bout we both have a skid comp... NOW? i win
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might be the closest to any action shane is ever going to get.
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bingo as will an safc and sitc.
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i like their complete breakky with sausages, hashbrowns, mushrooms!!, etc. comslie has some pretty decent food, they can have off days when it's busy though.
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i'm sorry, but i'm not following. one instance you said that he didn't tell you then you say he did tell you. it wouldn't have been the exhaust that fixed it, you would have either gotten it serviced and it cleaned itself up, a new o2 sensor, started using higher octane fuel or reset your ecu. regardless the power increase isn't from the exhaust alone. power fc would be good if you can find one, for a cheap price and one suited. then it's a matter of making it work, which may possibly involve rewiring the loom or changing sensors over on a GTT PFC, as they dont make one for the rb25de (neo included). at the end of the day you're looking at $1.4-1.5 for a powerfc with hand controller and another $3-400 for a tune. that's close to $2k for ~10kW. hardly worth it in my opinion. how do you know it's going rich every now and then? you TT fuel ratio monitor would hardly be accurate without a wideband O2 sensor, please don't use that to base your judgment on things.
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fair enough, he should have mentioned it to you that your fuel mixtures weren't so crash hot. you can hardly claim a 16kW gain on the exhaust alone if that is the case. i'd think that there'd roughly be 5-10kW on cleaning up the AFRs alone. dyno runs are normally done in 4th gear, that's the closest 1:1 gear ratio available. i'm not 100% sure on a slush box, i think (don't quote me) you do the run in 'overdrive'. http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0304tur_...hart/index.html have a read of that, the last paragraph in particular has quite a bit of emphasis on our topic. always, always, always request AFRs as the second axis, power is nothing if your car is running like shit. AFRs should always be as close to a flat line as possible. as you can see in your first graph, it runs very very rich towards the late rpm. remember lean = more power, but too lean = boom. tune's normally do have a tendency to run a little rich in high rpm partly as safety. if you have a look at this sample graph below (random one from the net), you can see the dip in power as the mixture goes rich, and as it leans up again power comes back on. some food for thought.
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hmm... you can notice the VVL making the range much chunkier, it's quite cool. i'm with Cris, the first graph is near useless - i'd hardly use that as a benchmark to call the 16kW increase. you have two runs, neither are alike (done in different gears?) and the AFRs are all over the shop for what should be stock. with proper AFRs i would have said that you would have more power in the first run. 2nd graph is a little better, but again different graphs in both runs?? 3rd graph is very nice... and i agree, looks like you lost some mid-high there.
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i'm not 100% sure what you're trying to get at. extractors vary rarely do gain power, it's more of a torque/response thing as you create more efficiency in how the gases flow - you might see a slight power increase as it helps 'top end' a bit. you keep forgetting that power is measured at a specific rpm. for arguments sake; 300kW @ 9000rpm is useless for a street car, 200kW @ 3000rpm is different again. whilst the first one has more power, the 2nd one would easily be faster. skylines handle flywheels well, because they are a revvy motor by nature. they like to rev and the lightened flywheel enhances that. when comparing to a 4L V6 or a 5.XL V8 BA falcon they have the cubic capacity to generate the torque required to rotate all that mass. they are grunty like a tractor and wouldn't really need a flywheel unless they were high revving. take this dummy dyno graph for example... while one makes more peak power, it doesn't actually make that power until late in the rev range. the other makes less peak power, but makes more power on average than the other - and being in the rev range where people use it most, it's more effective in going fast.
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i'd personally avoid said workshop
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by all means cara, i'm a firm believer that dyno runs are merely a quick and reasonable way to assess the potential of a car. the graph should definitely give some sort of indication as to whether or not your exhaust did give some benefit (a before and after would be ideal). by no means do i personally think it's a fair standard to use as many dyno ramp rates, settings, etc. vary, and even some dynos vary on the same day! i've had a dyno read my power output at 65rwkW and 10 minutes later 97rwkW and another 30 minutes later at 101rwkW. i don't even think that the dyno is THAT good for tuning, it's certainly effective for that though. i've always liked the concept of a road tune, as i believe cars are subjected to different loads and ambient conditions than under 'ideal' dyno conditions. i've just re-read the tone of my post, and hope it didn't come off as condescending or anything like that. i was merely pointing out to beau (the thread starter) not to expect the gains you achieved if he ever did get a 3" exhaust - he would be one unhappy dude wouldn't you think?
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Website Ideas and Feature Requests
Eug replied to PranK's topic in Site discussion - including Ideas/Feedback & Bugs
agreed. i think the core crux is ideal - something like what's contained in the RB30 PDF that's floating around. it's a few pages and provides the required basics to any half competent being, however the forum is for the extra details on specifics. -
How To Get More Power From A Naturally Aspirated (na) Engine
Eug replied to Eug's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
i agree... i've requested to the admins to get a wikipedia type page to set up. hopefully we can provide a straight forward and well presented summary, and a link to follow to more detailed explanation. -
yup, they really are a well made header - nice work mic the hpc is really good (mine are hp coated as well). much better than any "custom" job.