Eug

then you better have lost 3rd and 4th whilst racing i'll accept no less

exactly... power figures are a reasonable standard for assessing the performance of an engine, but in no way does it describe the driveability of it. you are obviously exhausting/expelling more gases at a higher rpm and thus a larger exhaust would be beneficial to accomodate all that gas. however at low-mid rpm (where most people drive) all a larger exhaust will do is take longer to fill up with the gases to reach it's efficiency. it's a similar concept to "lag", a term often heard with people who mount large turbos to their motors. 2.25-2.50" is the ideal compromise for a non turbo RB street car. if you're a dyno queen or have a high/large power band and regularly see high rpm due to racing then by all means go larger. i do track work and often see 5-7000rpm and run a 2.50" exhaust.

they attach onto the wheel studs - you can screw them in and out to obtain parallel lines.

just a reminder to others that the above stated power gain would be measured at max power at high rpm and does not represent the area under the curve (which i and many others believe is far more important in NA applications) also note that the Neo RB25 has VVL on both the intake and exhaust, so you wont get those gains on an RB25

PM sent Gary you make a good point. there might be some restrictions/relationships between the settings of camber, toe and castor. a compromise between all 3 settings. i suppose i'll try to google some methods or a procedure list as a basis. wouldn't mind to get russ/mark's input on this as well - they seem proficient in string line alignment. p.s. - what is the traction rod, i've heard the terminology thrown around a few times. same as tension rod? i've got the bush kits with eccentric centres sitting on my desk now. so all i'm aware of are; camber & castor

correct received your details beau. thanks for that

i forgot to mention in my previous post that the max settings on both sides would not necessarily mean the same settings on both sides, so there is a little flaw in that castor alignment aspect. and yes i think we both agree that castor and camber affect one another. so which do you adjust first, and how much influence does have one setting on the other? correct, trial and error is the go - and i'm sick of going back into the alignment shops (and spending $50-70) to get my alignment correct, and with a machine that doesn't even read accurately. once off purchase of a string-line alignment kit and i can fiddle to my heart's content. starts with G and ends with ARY

i have the whiteline bushes ready to go in as well. however you would ideally want the same adjustment on both sides. not to mention i have had it mentioned to me previously that castor adjustments are affected by camber adjustments.

on the topic of laser aligners, i don't rate them... i've have them done to a specified setting (they've printed out my results), come back a few minutes later unhappy with the setup and the settings that they did are different again! beer baron recommended the kit... it's a well made kit and very simple. http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/en/product_notice...a-one_gage.html i've yet to try it, but it's really a no brainer - and i might bring it to a laser alignment joint just to see the difference. for the price you could fabricate one yourself with some nice rulers and string, but this is a nice little package with a carry bag and not too much hassle. only draw back is no castor, which is derived from a maths equation of camber anyway (gary any input)?

spoken like a true despo...

i bought a more accurate wheel alignment kit just a few weeks ago. arrived the other day!

thought you'd be used to it by now

there is the classic "but i know someone who does" line right there. that makes you unqualified, tell your 'mate' to go back to panel school. you won't need to cut out the quarter panel, any decent panel beater will have the tools required to tap the dent back out from inside the car. it's like a mini hammer which they use to slowly punch it back out alternatively you could pull it out with a weld on or magnetic puller. this is first hand experience i encountered whilst getting a dent in the same spot out of my car. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...18#entry3477518 even you don't have any confidence in your mate's panel beating

no worries thanks for letting us know.

that's the ultimate question isn't it? i think the 25 head with 2k would be better, but the 26 head would have a higher limit if you wish to go further.

you don't need the standard rim offset to know if new ones will fit. the offset will vary depending on rim width. however, to answer your question how wide are the standard rims? i'm guessing around 6" wide, they would be around the +40mm mark. for a 7.5" wide rim you want around +32 to +35mm to sit close to flush with the guards. if you check the suspension & braking section there is a stickied thread up top. inside there'll be links to an offset calculator try that to compare what dimension changes you get from going from one rim to the other

PM sent

might be keen if you do a 2nd round

hahaha... i think you're in the position i once was eh. look at it in terms of your financial position and how much you really really want it. if you can afford it and want to do it then sure by all means. budget is a key factor, if you cant do it all in one go - plan it and see what you can do later on. see... if you add those figures up, you're looking at a cool $2k+ already. that my friend is the cost of an RB26 head! you won't have NVCS, but you'll have individual throttle bodies, a forward facing plenum, larger valves, stronger valve springs, better camshafts, solid lifters and a head that flows heaps better than the RB25. you could wack that on and later on when you get cashed up again port and polish the hell out of it and put in even crazier camshafts! personally i'd think you'd still be ahead with the RB26 despite not having NVCS. my suggestion, do the sump + block first. sort out a solid bottom end and the compression ratios. temporarily use the RB25 head (do not modify it). see if you're happy with it, if not save up and change to the RB26 head - you were going to spend the money on the RB25 head anyway and it has to come off for port and polishing. hope that helps eug p.s. - remember my post i put up for you a while back? it's an easy way to throw $10K+ eh? at the end of the day, you have to know that you have one sweet motor which will make girls (& boys) cream. but $10K is no longer pocket change and is something that influences everyday life (houses, education, work, etc) and not just a boyhood hobby.

i think that's the best approach jarrod.

what was included in the old wiki?? there's obviously so much info to collate where do you draw the line? i've got a thread running where myself and some of the guys are trying to put together some of the basic information, but it has just gotten huge in a matter of days! too big for a single post/thread i think. threads like the RB30 one in the forced induction section would be a vital asset - it is up there in providing world wide information on all things twin cam RB30. basics such as those summarised in cube's rb30 pdf would be a good basic page. here's the thread in reference for us: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html cheers

i can think of a few other guys who would also be up to the task. thanks for the support guys.

nice work jarrod, i may have to condense that a bit though. keep in mind guys to keep it relatively formal - and not so much conversation forum style.

would it be possible to get a wiki page/section put in? we're starting to collate some info in the NA section and would probably link to it through a thread or something something like this? http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

updated. parts in red require clean up or more attention. i would also like to cite references. cris, i've re-worded some of your sentences and removed some parts otherwise it was just going to be way too big. some parts such as camshafts, etc. can be referred back to one section. especially with the rb30 section it will sometimes double up. the costs and stuff are quite variable - as long as we're able to provide the core details it should be starting point. thanks for contributing, hope you can add some more - any section you're not happy please let me know and we'll fix it. wonder if we can get a wikipedia board put into this section? would be a lot easier.