Eug

time for me to read things correctly, sorry. hahaha

someone should get mod status around here so we can close all these topics... what jarrod said is correct

he's 25 guys

style points!

haha yeah i'd like to do it - but it'd have to be a project for a race car or something. as much as i like the RB motors, they are getting way too dated to keep up with all the new tech. i'd have to sink $10K to be happy with it. what you can look for in the brakes: - inspect rubber seals, no cracks etc. depends on how long they've been sitting around - check for rust, pistons moving freely, nothing seized. - make sure you have all the necessary pins and backing plates - banjo bolts and nipples in good order - make sure the calipers themselves have a good flush of fluid and aren't leaking

man dude you aaaaaaaare old. happy birthday james p.s. - i have it on good authority that he's considerably younger than the profile says.

university of queensland, bachelor of biotechnology, graduate mid '08 bring on the mullah

while that may be true cris, the best flow doesn't necessarily mean best filtration. that's the filter's job, if you want good flow then don't run anything at all. *ahem* according to that comparison, apexi is the best compromise between flow and filtration.

just wire up any turbo timer, you don't need a turbo to use one. i don't see the point of this thread. if you want one then buy one.

they r33 type-s has 147kw fly, no idea where they got that number from though. the non type-s also has nvcs, so the extra power is not due to that. 7kw is really nothing anyway. you can make or lose 7kw by running the dyno on different days, different fuel, condition of the motor, dyno settings, etc. all r33s that came with rb25s have nvcs some r33s came with an rb20e, they do not. you should have nvcs in an s2 r33 gts4

*hi5* to the uni club... that is both weird and creepy about the uncle. slotted dba/rda's are cheap as chips - you're only looking a few bucks more than the standard replacements (better again if you've got club sponsorship or group buy). more than sufficient for any sort of mild application.

it's called NVCS, the inlet cam is advnaced 20º when the solenoid is on. you can see a solenoid on the intake side, red plug from memory. you can also feel it kick when when the solenoid is activated. r32 rb25de = NO NVCS = correct put the keywords NVCS or VCT on the search engine for the entire forum, should bring up lots of hits.

it seems that price is directly proportional to volume of suction... much like my mate's mum

very easily found if you tried.

they won't be able to really hear it unless the bonnet is open anyway. they all make the woosh suction noise, just go with any. for the record apexi filters the best, don't know sound wise. a search should bring up alot of discussions on pod filters/panel filters... you might even find some sound clips from memory. try that.

they all go 'wooosh' some go 'wooooooosh' and many go 'woowooowooosh' you'll be inside the car listening to your music anyway, so what does it matter?

hey hey!! where was my invitation?

so do you have to remove and re-insert the eccentric centers to get castor adjustment (and same for camber)?

lol @ cable ties... well i thought the idea to have more power was to do track work? i mean what good is 300HP when at the end of the day you're doing 100km/hr, same as the 50HP barina beside you on the freeway.

i do, but i am never on. i am in brisbane as well, if you come to the AGM (see other forum) or the Super Skyline Cruise (SSC) - hunt me down and introduce yourself.

you can use one (1) of the existing holes, three (3) new ones need to be drilled. safe = yes, if done correctly. none of this home cordless drill rubbish. ABS is a good question, find out. a blank disc would be desirable, see if they'll do a blank rotor with 4x114.3 is the belt sound a squeel? new belts do take time to 'wear' in. if it's coming from the alternator/cog, then it could be on the way out - see if you can use your old one from the RB25DE. if you get the dba/rda rotors - buy blank R33 GTST rotors and have them drilled to 4x114.3 instead of the usual 5x114.3. it's no drama really.

i told you it'd be exxy cris.

$100, mate was upgrading. i've heard of people who are happy with exedys and others who aren't it seems 50/50 though - so i suspect it's more to do with installation than anything. i'd definitely give it a go. $300 is too exxy for a 5.2kg flywheel, considering the freight costs to send it over here. you can pick up a chrome molly or a billet one from any of the local (or interstate) performance shops for about the same - you'll win on freight though. i'll be chasing a 4.8kg one in a few months time - fingers crossed, and possibly get jim berry to build be a clutch suited to it. either way, i still don't see the point of a lightened flywheel unless it's for some form of motorsport.

no brainer really... just go with the organic. with the flywheel that's already going to hinder daily driving, the button will be a bitch - along with the fact that if you're not doing track work and pushing large amounts of power - not to mention you're in your budget range. just to put a bit of perspective, i use a stock GTR clutch - has served me fine for over 10 skidpan days, 5+ track days (this year) plus daily driving. what's the picture for?

in