Eug

you make it sound so easy eh Rich i'm running a compromise alignment for street & track now, and now that i've got a set of track rims which i intend to throw some semi slicks on, i hope to be able to run more camber and fiddle with toe settings. are castor and front camber adjustments independent of each other? (i.e. will adjusting one affect the other?) this will be all a steep learning process, will just fiddle with sydneykid's recommended settings until i find one suitable. I found this equation: but it was for a mazda miata (mx5?) - i never did physics (study biotechnology ) but the equation seems fairly measurement based. the only number i'm not sure about is the 3.1415, which from memory looks like the value for pi (however i always used 3.142 at school).

040 internal 044 external

NA_R33 has access to an engineering workshop, re-drilling and machining was done there for a slab of beer. Rebuilding calipers was through my mechanic, i had the calipers pulled apart cleaned up, new sleeves put in, pistons, rubber seals, backing plates etc. All up around $3-400 for all four calipers. Your local brake specialists should be able to do it. GTS4 would have a semi-gtr setup i would think. braided lines are definitely up there with one of my best mods (actually they are all pretty good, i haven't done a mod which i haven't liked). direct pedal feel and firmness in braking - no point in doing them if you aren't going to do track work though. lol @ crawling bug

i'll need a yes or no from you guys, if there's enough numbers. i'll start the thread in the GB section, it will run over the holidays and close around late jan/early feb in the new year.

i say you need something like the Thrust SSC

i spy 5 studs...

i have ordered one of these Maple A-1 Gages, should arrive in a few weeks. will keep everyone updated once i get some camber & castor bushes in. anyone know the equations required to calculate castor?

i fitted everything myself. the only things i had outsourced was the rebuilding of calipers, re-drilling & machining of rotors. it's relatively straight forward, however if you're not confident best to avoid it.

i'm more interested in the area under the curve, not how high curve reaches

two years ago for $900, and i would have snapped them up quickly. now they are getting on in the years, require new pistons, sleeves, etc... $500 will buy you calipers plus another few hundred for a freshen up. yes it's possible to have turbo rotors and calipers without doing the stud conversion. i have: R32 GTST* Type M calipers (front and rear) R32 GTST* DBA slotted rotors (front) - just buy a blank rotor and have them drilled to 4x114.3 R32 GTST* rotors (rear) 4 studs braided brake lines (front and rear) using the old R33 GTS25 handbrake, no dramas on the skidpan and on the race track. *the reason i opted for an R32 setup was because the R32 have the same diameter rotor as an S13/180SX - which have a bit more variety in terms of rotors RDA & DBA whilst keeping the 114.3 PCD. I have yet to try, but this might possible and would save in having to get rotors re-drilled all the time. it's a bit backyard, it works, and even if you're not doing track work a stock gtst setup with a refresh is enough piece of mind. i don't think there's TOO much of a difference in pad/rotor contact area between the GTS and GTSTs - however the firmness in braking and being able to pull up in a shorter distance is definitely noticeable. i often find myself out-braking the turbo skylines at QR. hunt around on the forums for someone wrecking a car, or even browse around yahoo japan. this is my setup. definitely do-able; hope this helps

true, well i was merely being generic earlier. 6 potters would be an overkill for someone who isn't doing any sort of motorsport/track work, heck you wouldn't even need brakes for going down the 1/4 mile. NA brakes are a twin piston sliding front, single piston sliding rear - significantly smaller than turbo brakes. rotor size? unsure, i ditched them ASAP - there isn't much available in terms of NA brakes. my effective but cheap option was a bolt in GTST calipers/rotors. however with all these so called 'racers' nowadays upgrading their already good brembos to AP racing, Grex, Alcon, etc. etc.... i've noticed an increase in available brembos, and a drop in price. back in the day sumitomo calipers/rotors were going for $1000+. now you can pick up a set of 4 for like $500.

well in the grand scheme of things... i have a rule that you should spend at least the same if not more on your suspension/braking than power mods. going quickly is good and all, but what will stop you?

that's still peak power cara... did you manage to get dyno graphs? and you have to keep in mind you have the 25DE NEO, mods will respond differently to the RB25DE

my kind of no bullshit car! ive never seen it... shooooooooooow me.

my bad, does it actually do any bracing? and is it transferrable to a GTS? nice work on the false floor it looks stock, been meaning to do something like this.

love the rims rach! show everyone your track pics!

brembos are cheap same with g4 calipers alternatively see my brake upgrade thread.

sign up to paul's mailing list, he sends out an email to each person with details on the individual track days. you will require an AASA license, can be bought at QR.

a 20kw increase where? top end, mid range, low rpm??? the kilowatt is one thing, driveability is another. you'll be saving a long time to own a GTR correct. unless you intend on fully utilizing the mods for (bragging rights not included) there's no point. even some of the 300HP GTSTs are being wasted cruising from carpark to carpark...

who said i was located in melbourne? no one is picking anything up from me, even in the last buy brisbane'rs had them delivered to their doorstep, it will cost the same individually to get to me as it does directly to you. i was implying that if they ALL got sent to me, i.e. on a crate or something - then there might be some savings. if you'd like to get some cheaper prices, try to find some more buyers so i have grounds to bargin with them. head studs can be bought from any exhaust shop (even nissan i believe). flange and gaskets also from the exhaust shop. correct, any half decent workshop will be able to supply everything, even the gasket glue. if you want to save some dosh, remove your old headers - fit the new headers on and mark where you'd want the new flange to be in relation to the cat. remove it all and bring it to an exhaust shop (or even someone who knows how to tig) and bob's your uncle. apart from the welding, it's all bolt in bolt out. i would have done it myself too, but what would have taken them a couple of hours on the hoist would have taken me a day. there might have been issues previously with the orange paint melting off (greg? can you elaborate here). some people didn't get them heat wrapped nor hp coated, and would rather a black set of headers than orange - i'm still negotiating if it'll be free, a minor issue really. i don't do things by halves karl

i want a text tomorrow saying "f**ken aye giggidy 9 second pass"

no worries, they are pretty difficult to get if no one can organize them. figure that helping everyone out is the least i can do. if you guys give me more people, it will give me more leverage to bargin with. i had 6-7 people per buy last round. here we are struggling to make 4. the headers themselves are a bargin, it's the freight that's the killer - they still work out in the end. it could be cheaper to get them all shipped to one location (i.e. me), but then the cost and time involved for me to send them to everyone individually would just be a nightmare. $285 will get you a d12 extractor (suitable for rb20 and rb25) and gasket with estimated 3-10 working day delivery from partsco to your front door. fitment depends on how mechanically minded you are. they are easy to fit yourself, and if you can weld even better. otherwise it depends on the going rate of your local exhaust shop. i had mine fitted for $250 (including new flange, gasket, new head studs).

you don't really buy a GTS for power. however if you do want a little bit more there are a number of things; -nitrous -turbo conversion -rb30 conversion (engine transplant though) -intake -exhaust -cams -timing -ecu/piggyback a search on any of those keywords should yield more details. if you're interested there's a group buy currently in the works for extractors. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t189629.html we don't really need more threads for 'how to get more power', there is a plethora of information on the forum with extensive details and results. give them a go. when i get time i shoud write up a sticky thread collating all the data.

correct, they are delivered from NZ straight to your door and won't cost anymore than stated - this minimizes hassles. i won't ask for a deposit until i get a solid confirmation from everyone. this is what they look like in the standard coby orange paint. also i have requested an option in outlet sizes of 2.25" or 2.50", as well as an option of black or orange, like last time it should be free (i will confirm). so regardless of your catback size, we should be able to work something out. as i get a good to go from everyone here, i will set up a thread in the GB section and we can go from there.

greg! i remember those ghetto aluminum foil pics! haha... with the current prices being offered for hp coating, i'd personally advise against it - even though i do rate it. here's the amended prices with MicR33 pulling out, response as follows; ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- d12 extractors AUD$205 gaskets AUD$10 international air freight (3-10 days*) AUD$70 international economy (10-25 days*) AUD$60 *working days ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- judging by the quotes you guys got, it's about a AUD$50~80 saving. i am awaiting confirmation on the variable outlet sizes and choice in colours. let me know how everyone wishes to proceed, and this should be the first on order for the new year.