Eug

it's a compromise on an NA. 2.25 is what i would recommend for a car that's being driven around town, to the shops, to uni, work, etc. however if you regularly see high rpm applications, i.e. track work - then 2.50" would be the ideal choice. it's quite dependent on your application, none of this dyno rubbish in regards to kilowatts. everyone knows that a dyno reads maximum power at whatever rpm (more often than not, high rpm/near redline) by choosing the correct exhaust diameter you are effectively putting your 'power/response/gigawatt/driveability' band in the range where you most frequently use it. there's no point in having a 11ty" exhaust, when you're only using 2000 - 4000 rpm daily,

proven oil reserves dropped by 0.1% from 2005 to 2006 oil consumption up by 0.7% from 2005 to 2006 and in conjunction with what wheels magazine says that we have extracted just over 50% (i'd like to see their source). we are hitting peak oil now, the fact that we are using more than we can find/produce - we'll see a steep decline in availability* and thus an increase in demand and costs. *think bell shaped curve. you are correct, alternative energies is the way to go (despite the irony that we are on a forum for cars that basically eat, live and breathe fuel). i think the earth will suffocate itself long before any of our distant plans come to fruition.

nice work... give her a go on the skidpan, that will give you nice environment to suss out the limits.

what i was thinking exactly... i think the whole approach nissan was trying to get at is porka/ferrari type exclusitivity. you don't buy these cars to have them cut up and transplanted like regular imports, they ARE the package from factory. sure minor parts here and there, most probably by nismo and most probably an arm and a leg.

barrels are up to a USD$93, strong aussie dollar should buffer that though. expect no more petroleum in the next couple of decades, we will/should be bone dry.

i stand partly corrected then. those tuned length headers look sweet, if they didn't cost an arm and a leg i would have gotten them.

not to mention low to mid would be ALOT more responsive. exactly... but for cara's purposes on the dyno, 3" is good i suppose. my stance on custom vs. off the shelf (jap spec), will always lean towards the off the shelf item. NA RB's are notorious for their characteristic twin cam metalic ring, and it can be a headache to deal with if not done right. i've never seen custom exhaust items as a positive, more as a negative - hks/fujitsubo, etc. don't invest big dollars into providing an item that has withstood the test of time as a bad product. things like tuned length, dB, emissions (fujitsubo legalis r?), flow, etc. are all factors that time has proven. i would very much prefer a proven product than one put together by the local guy who normally puts together 8 pots. however if other factors such as cash is involved, then by all means prioritize your criteria accordingly.

i think if you check their site in NZD they state NZD$275, i think their converter is out of date. i am not sure why everyone has been given different prices. i have been given a figure of $NZD250 (for extractors including gasket), we are negotiating the freight options. if you can get them for NZD$310 delivered, then there's no real need for the group buy. go for it i say! you'd only be saving $10-20 with the GB. however i will keep everyone advised as the info comes to me.

buahahahahaha

supplier is awaiting prices from coby. hp coating quotes have gone up NZD$300 - i suggest everyone gets them heat wrapped or get them done locally.

it's not really such a big deal as everyone makes it out to be. the headers will end at the same place as the standard front pipe. the headers come 2.25" standard, i will try to arrange a choice between 2.25" or 2.50" outlets again (was free of charge prior). heat wrapping or hp coating either way is fine, they will work if you don't wrap them too. i still haven't received a response yet (not really expecting one too soon due to holidays). will keep you guys posted.

i sold a set of mine for $200 with crappy tyres. they aren't highly desirable - but they are very very good cheap alternative for drag racing. try selling on nissan silvia. i would have kept mine if they cleared my big brakes.

dropping a cylinder will make it sound like a rex

google "HPC" or "HP coating", it's basically a thermal coating to maintain temps. i'm not entirely sure if you will notice any significant difference between a car with/without hp coating. however keeping the heat out of the engine bay is enough to sell me - it is odd that they cost just as much as the extractors themselves but the coating is contracted out. in regards to getting an exhaust, i'd wait for the headers - they don't come with flanges so it depends on what diameter you're after to weld them on. that said i had no dramas welding my headers onto my full exhaust system, any exhaust shop can cut to suit.

woosh-woosh as opposed to woo-oosh-woo-oosh

when'd you get an NA dale?

i cant give a definite answer as i did my extractors and full exhaust at the same time. first instance was a fatter mid-range, VVL/VCT was much more notice-able, top end revs right out till ~6500/6800'ish. revving and delivery was sharp and smooth. note: i also did get an SAFC2 at the same time and got a fair bit leaned out. skimming through the thread there seems to be about 6 people interested. blk_sz (Beau) inthisglass (Karlos) GTS4WD (Cris) cam_R33 (Cameron) R33 Ribby (Kane) MicR33 (?) if everyone sticks with it, i will run the group buy. we really need the numbers to make this work, i won't advertise this elsewhere to make up the numbers required like last time due to people pulling out. so if you are unsure, say so now. i've sent emails out to partsco and the hp coaters. i'll advise back on prices. as a rough timeline, we're looking at: late jan - names & deposit early feb - orders placed and transfer of money

nice work. if you're running stock with the stock DET ecu, it should be fine. ask: - has the motor been serviced? - anything freshened up? - anything that might need a bit of attention? - general wear and tear items, clutch, etc.

i've been thinking that lately, you're looking around $6K+ for a 6 speed. wiring is a headache. there's so many control modules, bcm, ecu, blah blah for the VQ series to make it run stock. that's why there's not really any sort of aftermarket ECU (PFC style) for them. that said, alot of guys in the states have done it. you'd be looking at $10K+ just to get a stock VQ in there, unless you could do alot of the work yourself.

i have never seen that rear panel/bracing before.

microtech

will let you know if his situation changes.

maybe it was the other way around? you might be correct, make that -99.99% sure

he's relocated a few blocks away... not sure if he's taking anymore work. i'll ask him (or get someone) to confirm that.

sorry had missed your post on at the bottom of the first page. overall list looks fine, like you mentioned block work while the motor is out. the head can be bolted off again later. i'd would use the s2 block due to the oil squirters (someone confirm me, i am 99.99% sure) would do the big and and the mains, while the block is out. decked block would depend on pistons, i have no clue what compression RB30E's run rods (shot peened) + bolts = fine flywheel; can honestly be done at a later time unless you are also doing a clutch now? oil pump + collar = definitely timing belt = Gates brand; don't forget to re-locate the tensioners headers, not vital can be done at a later stage (may have some block height clearance issues, 30mm?) head gasket, not using one? make sure to get a thin one oil cooler, can be done at a later date. check what the 25DE pistons give you, and check what the 30E pistons give you, also double check the forgies - if they are for a 25DET your compression might be too low. I wouldn't pass off on any yet until you get some solid calculations and numbers sorted. overall the list looks fine, there are some parts i feel you can do without or can be bought after a majority of the motor has been built. no doubt some things will cost more than budgetted for. the way i look at things is that there are 3 general areas; block, head and g/box. the head and g/box can be removed easily to get work done at a later date. the block is something that should be done first time and done right. hope that helps? (it's early so forgive me for any errors)