Eug

i'll forgive you it was late when you posted, but you need to wake up cris! rb30 headers for the single cam head and i'll agree with you on the uni front! taking all our money!

probably just need more revs? like border-line stalling...? correct; both cams on the neo rb25 have variable timing.

time is certainly something you would need to organize a group buy, as well as being prepared to invest a few bucks here and there. making calls, getting quotes, organizing who, what and where, etc. partsco was my supplier/contact -correct. we have an established relationship; the following was our given deal. you may or may not get the same prices, however do not expect to get the same as over AUD$3-4K worth has passed through my hands to them. also the increase in strength in the AUD should see lower prices again. as of oct 2006: as you can see we made savings of ~$100 each!

awww feel the love... thanks for the vote of trust guys. i may do organize another if there's enough interest, might even have to ask for a deposit from those interested just to make sure no one backs out again last minute. i ran two separate buys, the issues that arose them were: - some people were quick to agree, and oh so slow to front up with cash (you are only going to make it more expensive for the others). - being an international transaction there are delays in monies being transferred and shipment (as an example nengun can take up to 6 months for delivery). - coby manufacture them on an order basis, so there are delays in that aspect. - then there's time delays in movement from coby to my contact, then from my supplier to the hp coaters and then back to the contact. and we all know how punctual mechanics/welders/anyone in the business is. - one of the main concerns i had was in the communication with my supplier, they did have server issues and weren't getting my emails. nothing a few international calls couldn't sort out. - the second main concern was Glyn (chicane)'s extractors, his set were the only ones that were hp coated and thus came alot later than the rest, not to mention the gasket wasn't included in the initial delivery. this was promptly fixed via express, without extra charges. turn around time your looking 2-3 months from the date you deposit the money into my account (assuming everyone deposits, and i don't have to run around trying to find an extra buyer to maintain the cheap costs). 1 week for money to clear from us into their international bank account 2-3 weeks for manufacture 1 week back to supplier 2 weeks at the hp coaters 1 week back to supplier 1-2 weeks for delivery & customs give or take, and dependent on how many orders we put through. that said, if we order now the expected delivery will hit around christmas time - and as we all know from prior experience, i'd like to avoid that. cheers eug

you've already started a thread on which muffler to buy, there's no need to keep making a new one. not to mention i can see 2-3 threads on the front page alone. exhaust systems are so variable, everyone has a different setup preference to sound, power, looks, height, legality, emissions, so there isn't one ideal setup. bar a set of extractors and a sidepipe. a search would yield more and better results. also to get your understanding right; straight through and mandrel bent aren't comparable terminologies. it's mandrel bent and press bent; for the record mandrel bent is preferable. straight through means exactly that, nothing in between - straight through (i.e. no cat). you will need flanges and gaskets, exhaust shop can provide that. the cat will be dependent on what size piping you get. have a serious think about your questions before you post them up, half of them can be thought out logically or found within the forum, or even speaking with your exhaust guy! i mean he is the one putting it all together afterall.

actually i must have mis-read that. i meant 10th may? whichever the first sau one is.

i couldn't live without my creature comforts, and it's such a shame to ruin a nice example of a car (especially one like ignuz/nick's). if i were going to clap out a car it'd be un-registered and for track - i personally don't see a point in doing things by halves. sure it might be a bit of street cred, but that's about it. to put it in perspective; i know the owner of a mega buck street registered R34 GTR here which is super quick up here in QLD, and i also know an owner of a close to stock unregistered r33 gtst which runs faster times. the gtst has a cage, side exhaust pipe and all the stuff taken out; and pretty much that's it. personal opinions only, like Cris said it's a cheap and effective way to go fast.

buahaha... it's so true. lewis hamilton, the cindarella story.

nah, valve bounce is ideal. on a more serious note you'd want to do some block and head work to see revs reliably i prefer smith's thins. you'd be looking at an aftermarket ecu or something like dr. drift (sam's) chips lol he was referring to yours. basically speed cut at 180km/hr is a fuel & ignition cut. by having an SAFC it 'should' have removed it, check your manual. i know my SAFC2 has removed it.

chip it and remove the rev limiter. the harder you bury your foot the harder it revs. simple really

farken rofl @ mish'stle. i'm in for the 15th march 2008

i take it that was directed at me shan. whilst i wholeheartedly agree with what you've said. most people don't care much for slowing down and taking corners initially, because they don't feel and see the initial result of their mods. my observation is that they tend to worry about that when they start coming in too fast and spinning out. this is of course coming from a guy who has done suspension/brakes and f**k all power.

true, alot of things in this thread look arse

buy a clubman. there's no point in buying a r33 and going extreme, unless it's a car you intend to slowly work on. simpler to make more power. also why ruin such a nice example of a car.

with your custom piping who knows. what resonators are you going to use. try it and find out, a muffler is just wank anyway. there's no real performance to be gained.

awesome!

by balancing the crank; i (and anyone with half an idea) would be balancing anything else attached to it. rods, bolts, pistons, gudgeon pins, and every other part that goes around and around. however if you're not exceeding 7K, then it should be fine. ashley is correct with the I6 falling apart due to its stroke angles. it's not the most ideal engine, but it's been done before and many RB25/26/30s and M3s rev happily no dramas. if everyone was anal about having the best motor config, then we'd all be driving around in 2.4L V8s. in regards to the 4wd; it's not a big bridge, but it will add to the budget you'll need an sump/diff adapter plate thing.

jesus! i have an RB30 block sitting in my laundry US$600 i'm rolling in it! balancing the crank, rods, pistons, rod bolts in combination with a good balancer (ATI or Ross Tuffbond) and it'll be fine. just double triple check and have everything weighed! nice to see you get started, i don't want to start because i know i'll never be finished i have the pdf you're looking for PM me your email and i'll send it across, it's current till 29th Sept '06 edit: just thought i'd add, are you keeping the 4wd in the gts4? you'll need to do some sump modifications to allow you're front drive shaft through.

*hi5* p.s. - trust wing is the shit

oh yeah for sure. what i'm getting at is if you would need to roll back (e.g. 10m) then roll forward to allow all the tyres/suspension to 'seat' then check again. right?

yeah, got a bit obsessed with ideas last year. the bottom end will be the main component; all the head work can be done further down the track. you're proposed build is fine, i don't see any dramas with it. just tick all the bases on support gear. like you said, oil cooler, bigger radiator and what not, esp. for revs. trust make a sump extension that you can weld on. Although a lot of workshops make one in house which are just as good, some are even better with gated baffles. If you plan on seeing revs, you'll want oil! exactly with the 'enjoyment' factor. with the build i proposed, you're looking at a race spec motor which is going to be a pig to drive at lowish rpm. i mean i'd love to happily rev to 6-7000rpm to pick up my pizza and groceries! see i've done it the opposite way, all my brakes and suspension parts are done. all i'm after is a motor, so keep us posted on your progress - you can be my guinea pig

if alonso comes 1st, and hamilton 3rd in brazil, that makes it a tie no?

might have a read into that ikeya one. thanks bb. suppose there's no way of doing castor? i'm also thinking, wouldn't it be 'ideal' to have the car on axle stands while doing any sort of alignment (not in mid air, but just to re-seat the wheels on the surface)? or to at least do the alignment, roll back and forth and re-check?

noice... cheers guys. $400 is a worthwhile investment, considering it costs $50-60 at the local tyre joint. group buy ?

the linear delivery should be fine with the gearbox, i think it's the 'snap' of power which screws em up. i don't have a word for word plan; but it goes something like this: bottom end: - rb30 block, acid dipped, shaved, etc. etc. - rb30 crank, knifebladed & balanced - bored cylinders - forged rods & rod bolts (pick a brand, JE?) - custom hypereutectic pistons (yet to look into it) - race bearings & bearing studs (pick a brand, ACL?) - oil pump w/ crank collar (again pick a brand, Jun from memory?) - gtr water pump - dry sump setup, or at least a sump extension. - ross tuffbond or ati balancer - balanced everything! head: - rb26 head with tuned length trumpets - ported head - polished chambers - port matched inlet ports and throttle bodies - oversized inlet & exhuast valves (ferra? insert brand) - 270º cams with 10.5mm lift (from memory, whatever takes your fancy really) - tomei/jun/etc valve springs (25kg) - tuned length extractors - cam gears - insert brand name headstuds (arp?) usual: - d-jetro, motec, microtech, ecu... pfc would be ideal - splitfire coils - compression: ~11:1 for pump fuel, 12~13:1 for race fuel. - surge tank w/ bosch/walbro pumps. - rb25det box with jim berry's full monty clutch and a cusco 4.8kg flywheel - 1.5way cusco/kaaz/nismo diff - 1 piece carbon fiber tailshaft - lightened pulleys, etc. should be able to see 9,000~10,000 rpm all day everyday without dramas. of course we are looking at a $10K+ build in parts alone. in all honesty cris, i think you'll be fine. as long as you plan everything accordingly and make sure you have all your bases covered there shouldn't be any dramas. a reasonably 'stock' build with freshened up bits should see you 200rwkw with reasonable compression and a killer tune. main points to cover - balanced bottom end - compression ratios & fuel avail - ecu & tuner - breathing mods; intake, exhaust, head work. got them sussed, then you're laughing. keep in mind that the DET guys are running 200-250rwkw on stock internals with no dramas. turbo = pressure, compression = pressure. just be wiery of pinging. hope that gives you a bit of angle, or even some ideas no matter how far fetched.