Eug

was very impressed with the turn out. i'll agree with geoff on the old school muscle/bike support. disappointed with the lack of imports. saw pnk32 though

yeah just how you mentioned about simple maintenance things got me thinking. it's alot of effort to juggle a car to race along with one that you need to drive to uni/work/shops day in day out. it's alot of money to maintain the street car by day, race car by night type thing. found that servicing the car seems to occur very very regularly, and the small things like pads, oil filter, etc. are adding up! and yeah, maybe in 2 years or so... something very light, and very NA, and very quick.

it's quite straight forward to do, but if you're not sure then probably best not to f**k with it. it's a two man job unless you have a self bleeder. good idea on watching your mech.

hahaha yeah... it's a farken mish hey. thinking about not racing for a little while and coming back with a proper race car

that sounds pretty good dude...

i cant really remember the exact setup on the NA brakes, but it's a twin piston sliding caliper front, single piston sliding rear. from what i recall, you remove one bolt on the center sliding part and fold it out, remove the pads, loosen the bleed nipple a bit and use a large screwdriver or spanner to wedge the pistons back. then you pop in the new pads and fold the center sliding bit back down. do up the bolts and bleed the caliper and repeat for the other three. just remember to loosen the nipple a bit if you are going to be pushing back on the piston. also begin bleeding from the caliper furtherest away from the master cylinder (i.e. rear left, rear right, front left then finishing off with the front right). any questions just ask nick.

didn't dial any timing in. it's still whatever it is from the factory or previous owner. the safc was to clean up the afr a bit not for any sort of power. most of my mods are based around suspension parts and setup, not power. although i might have to put some in to try this drag racing thing you guys call racing.

9am is awfully early... i want food!

here's the form to print in PDF bitches. Lakeside_Show_n_Shine_Rider_Indemnity_Form.pdf

awesome news if you can fit those slarts back there i'll join in too.

headers back exhaust with an SAFC2...

rofl... your brother may have set a new bench mark for NA times. i'll take it down the strip when i get a spare chance. i make 115kw, which is roughly 150HP - we'll see how it compares.

i normally do circuit stuff, but i might have to give this straight line business a go.

compliance lol... well i'm stumped... whatever it is that's done, i'd like a go at it.

intake and exhaust have been modified/changed. isn't stock is it? helps increase performance. define exhaust? catback? from the headers back? muffler? neither are the tyres, which means he has rims. are they light weight rims? again not stock. helps with performance under quoting the power figure with a fast time also makes people skeptical (myself included). so you can't blame people for their questions. who knows the head could have been ported and polished in japan? have the rear seats, interior trim, sound deadening, etc. been removed? you haven't specified. as you say, it's stock stock stock, but from what i gather it might have a few things which you don't really consider as modifications. which is why i'm emphasizing on the point that your brother's car is running a faster than normal time non-standard. 14.6 is an impressive time, and you've given both the dyno runs and a video to prove it. no one is saying he didn't run that time. however people are questioning what you would consider stock. the car is well around ~1 second faster than the average time. driving the car hard, may lead to better bedding in of the rings which improves compression, but this isn't reflected in the dyno run. for arguements sake, the dyno is reading low (even at 150RWHP) but i wouldn't say ~1 seconds worth... again i'll emphasize the point that no one is pointing fingers, just a level understanding on what us both (and others) would consider being modifications, and what others wouldn't. as to the gtst call, it's a fair one - as stock gtsts would be around the low 14 to mid 14 mark.

i personally think you're over emphasizing the stockness of it to play up the fact that he's running a freak 1/4 mile time. regardless, even if it is a freak car - there's a logical explanation for it... things just don't happen. i'm sure alot of us would like to know why, and see if we can make anything of it. when i get some spare time i will try to replicate it. also if possible can your brother get a timeslip? i'd like to see what kinda speeds he's doing.

if you can get a hold of a dyno graph that would be sweet. simply put.. 120RWHP (90ish RWKW), does not equate to a mid-14 quarter mile in a full weight r33. there must be a reason for it... and i'd like to find out and do whatever it is for myself

jesus... well it's definitely there in the vid. can't be stock though, it's had to have something done to it, whether your brother knows or not. got a power figure?

sure your brother doesnt have a GTST?

i run 255 rears on my track rims i agree.. 14.6 is a biiiiiiig call

the intake has VCT, it'll advance/retard on its own you'll want to replace the exhaust cam gear, with an adjustable. find someone with a DET, upgrading their springs. it's one of those things that you should do while the head is apart.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=173549 valve springs wont really make it rev harder. cheapest upgrade would be DET valves + springs. the stronger springs means that the valves move in and out of the cylinder head more directly, quicker? and firmly, and not as "lazy". also with bumped up compression it's a little more ideal. why are you doing the intake cam gear? just retard the exhaust

the arospeed ones are dirt cheap... cant pass them up

there we go

yeah, i'm a little 50/50 on the overlap. i've read so many people say that DET and DE are identical, and others have said otherwise. best bet would be to compare the two for yourself, i'd like to have the final word on that too. Cris: you won't lose the VCT. tomei pon cam 256º with 8.5mm lift (intake and exhaust) cam gears (the arospeed ones are dirt cheap anyway) and i reckon you're laughing. regardless of the overlap, the gains to be had from getting the cam shafts far outweigh the lack of overlap.