Eug

is it just me... or?

oh what's this? you selling the car col?

jesus, those light took a cooking... sounds like a fun little project to get into. love getting my hands dirty

i'll take the seats shipped to brisbane for $1700 + frieght!!!!

spot on

the ratios are different, everything else is the same - strength wise. (compared to LSD optioned NAs)

but the v35 is ohhhh so comfy!! maybe not for oversized behemoths? wish you well in your short term endeavours muddy

i have the stock exhaust, and a set of wheels (but i wont separate them sorry). in brisbane though

CITY VALLEY overall i think the scene in brisbane has died in the arse, everything is commercial, cheesy and screams give me money. discuss away! source: unknown

lmao... i got nothing... yet.

awesome... a race that had everything! Kozeyekan summed it up well... don't forget champ car tuesday morning!

any increase in performance/power is going to use up more energy = fuel so your FUEL INTAKE CONSUMPTION is obviously going to increase, as to by how much - who knows, it's dependent on your tune, style of driving and associated components. if you are unhappy with the current rate of fuel consumption, then obviously don't mod the car. how many liters per 100km is calculated as follows: fill up your fuel tank to full reset your trip meter consistently drive in your regular style until it's time to fill up check your trip meter (~400-500km??) check how much fuel you put in at the second fill up the amount of fuel you put in (liters) divided by the number of kilometers travelled (in km) multiplied by 100 voila you have the amount of liters used to travel 100km

try the rear windscreen wiper if you have one... the sun likes to dry out seals especially on dark coloured cars

speed limit in japan is 180... so why bother buy a nismo 320km gauge.. simple

well i take that back the jealousy then. how will it affect the engine? - it will be a pig to drive - absolutely gutless at low rpm - the sound will be like you said droney - you will use more fuel - more power at a higher rpm flange sizes should fit, if not just re-weld a new set on at your local exhaust shop. don't think supercheap carry flanges. that is the silliest thing i've ever heard... it's not like you're doing any favors to your wallet by getting your exhaust out of the way. the increase in fuel, emissions and power loss may annoy you long before you begin your conversion. but each to their own. just keep in mind that the amount of kw you have is not an indication of how quick/well performing your car is.

are you doing any sort of racing cara? why would you need/want cam shafts? you would ideally want some reasonably lumpy cams to get the most out of an na engine, which would make it an absolute pig to drive on the street, and annoying to idle. the duration and lift depends on where you want your power... - do you want a fatter mid range? - do you want it to breath better in the top end? (at a sacrifice in the lower rpm) then you'd need cam gears, along with a full replacement ecu to get the most out of it. while you've got the head open you may as well port and polish it. get some better valves and valve springs, maybe deck the block a little to bump up compression. it's not as simple as throwing the cam shafts in and voila!

got yourself a bargin there!!! i'm jealous

more specs on the drives please. brand? rpm? pictures? links to a website? cheers

all paid for!! going to be sweet.

i thought darlington park was pretty sweet... shame you cant go there anymore, nor lakeside... braking at the end of turn one (at QR) was scary with those bumps...

happy birthday dude

never heard of the AFC4 (apexi item?). you can enable it and disable it, by unplugging the solenoid. that's how you determine the most optimal rpm point for it to engage, by doing two dyno runs one with and one without. i'm pretty sure you will need an aftermarket something to control when the vct/vvt/nvcs (whatever you want to call it) is activated/deactivated, whether it be a full replacement ecu or a little piggyback controller. stock; the vct turns on just above idle rpm and turns off around ~5000rpm'ish. don't quote me exactly on that though. the power fc guys require the fc datalogit (laptop program) to be able to access the function. i know that doesn't exactly answer your questions, but hopefully it'll provide a little grounds for discussion.

nice to have you on board Daniel. a nice clean car you go there; loving the avs (i think) rims. they definitely suit the car. and yes you're right, at the end of the day owning a skyline isn't about owning a "turbo", it's about enjoying a car that looks good, handles better, and goes better than the average car on the street. use this opportunity to learn the dynamics of the car, get a feel of how it handles, learn to control a rwd vehicle and just simply have fun. having an n/a doesn't mean you're slow, it just means you have to work that much harder to gain those extra few seconds. any questions you have about your car, i'm sure many of us would be willing to answer them. be sure to search before hand in case your question has been brought up before. cheers edit: and while i agree that the search for power is addictive, keep in mind there's more to driving than just outright power; most wouldn't know how to get the most out of their 400rwkw gtst anyway. suspension, braking and driver skill also come into play

wot are you driving now will? cappa?

nice, got a clean car there. Q1/ ensure the car is completely stationary when you change gears; i.e. reverse out of driveway, ensure car is completely stationary, foot solidly on the brakes, shift slowly but smoothly into drive, release the brake and onto the accelerator. give that a go and let us know. Q2/ 70kms is fine, normally it's accounting for the fuel in the pipe from the filler cap to the tank. Q3/ i wouldn't recommend it as i believe the lowest octane rating in japan is 98ron. you will get increase of knock and possibly pinging (more prevalent on turbo cars) on an n/a you might get away with it. to give you an idea i had to fill my car with unleaded once, because that's all the petrol station had - and my safc2 read knocks up to 46, as soon as i found a servo with premium i put it in straight away and once empty, i filled it up again with premium and i get knocks in and around 15-25'ish, this is of course due to the fact that my car is tuned for premium unleaded fuel. if you wanted a car to run cheaply on fuel, you wouldn't have gotten a skyline in the first place. hope that helps