Eug

you contradict yourself continously. it's like me telling you; no offense but you're an idiot. learn to be a little more open minded about other people's choices/likes. killswitch88, another option might be the trust drag wing. a few of us wouldn't mind either the doluck or trust wing, it's just a matter of someone bringing one in cheap enough to make some cheaper pieces. keep us posted on how you go. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...533&hl=drag

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...347&hl=cams a search normally yields results. hope that helps

brent already has a very nice set of extractors spot on, shaving the head or decking the block would be a good idea if the head is off to do some work... be weiry about piston:valve clearance. again speak with your mechanic, or a nice thin gasket should help also. rb25 ecu can be reflashed, i am not too clued in on it; but the rom can only be written/flashed once but then needs to have the chip changed if you want to retune. it ends up being an expensive exercise and the flash has to be done first time and done right. rb20 can be reflashed over and over again.

i have a 33 gtst drivers window, its tinted though. shame you are in sydney it's just lying around and i'd let it go cheap.

a throttle body upgrade has always intrigued me. in an NA system the ability for the motor to breath & exhaust un-restrictively will yield the quickest results. out of the people here; the only one i know that's done extensive intake modification would have to be a man called don (donestoto ??) - his old motor had a twin throttle body intake. you may have heard of him in and around the r31 scene. best bet would be to do a search for his rb30de in his r31 wagon which he used to take to the salt lakes. aftermarket cam shafts should be sweet, depending on what kind of duration and lift, you can choose to suit your power range. a set of poncams should give you a nice fat midrange and a tough idle. alternatively you can get the stock ones reground for a budget upgrade. variable cam gear on the exhaust side only, because the intake is variable already; thus there's no point in doing it. unless of course you have a non-vct r32 rb25de, or an rb26 head. best to speak to your mechanic and tuner to see what they are capable of and what they recommend. aftermarket ecu, some people use the gts-link, i personally use a piggy back safc ii. you can go all out with a microtech or an e-manage which will have loads more functions and tuneability. again speak with your tuner/mechanic to see what they recommend and are comfortable with. the end result is only as good as what your tuner can extract. sit down, speak with them, set out your goals and applications and break it down into individual components, what they do and how to do it. rb30de would be sweet, i'd love one... just a case of justifying the money. correct with the pre modification... the intake and stuff will all be good for that, all you'd need is a retune to accommodate the added fuel with the bigger block. in terms of port and polish. i haven't done it, but from what i have spoken with from other people who do port and polish mods (not rb motors though) it's well worth it. that said the rb heads do flow reasonably well, and port matching is definitely well worth it in my opinion. it's certainly something i'd consider down the track, while your there oversized valves, valve springs will definitely remove restrictions and allow the head to flow much better. the key to getting low rev driving and decent top end is all in cam shaft selection and tune, they will shift the power band where necessary. me personally, i'm a suspension nut. i've done my fair share of mild power mods with minimal gain, and to be honest at the end of the day its a number. if you want worthwhile mods, concentrate on how to make the most of your existing power, think drive train, shorter (or was it taller?) gearing, lightened flywheel, light 1-piece tailshaft, light weight rims, etc. etc. they will have the biggest impact on seat of the pants feel. you might only be making 120rwkw, but you'd be making the most out of it. by all means i'm not trying to sway you - just something to think on, a different approach just to add some dimension and adding a bit of context for further discussion. hope this helps eug p.s. - how are the extractors coming along brent?

http://www.justjap.com/parts_ngauges.htm scroll right down to the bottom.

he's not kidding... wanted to import a calsonic as i recall... and didnt you just get defected last week? the last thing you want is to attract more attention

i personally wouldnt wire the oil temp/pressure senders to the sump... you can buy a sandwich plate to attach these sensors onto.

vs. glenn

yes but the rb25det has the potential to go further... where as you will start hitting a brick wall with the rb25+t

it's all in the tune... if you get that right then most engine combos will last for a while. finding someone that can tune well... that's another story.

shush cara... imagine the cheap parts you can pilfer off the wreck later...

Hamilton holding pole position Coulthard, Schumacher and Barrichello are out. Vettel hanging on. Sato is out (lol Ducan, you can have him to yourself - no one will back SG now )

hahaha thanks for that i have a chemical background. diff between 5 and 5.1?

it'll will have more torque due to the high compression will be more responsive less laggy however due to the high compression, you won't be able to run much boost = less peak power.

isn't that what the strip's for?

just being nit picky here... the correct term is hydrophilic. hydroscope is used to look under water. i never knew that... interesting tend to agree with what roy said, i don't flush as regularly as i'd like - but more so with each pad change (which most of us would do a few times a year anyway).

car is looking good nath... loving the bonnet i have a few short seconds of a short clip of you popping flames in front of me at QR if you're interested

7th!! damn... that's awesome for debut everyone seems to be rubbing it into fernando

ahahahahaa

give the alignment, current suspension setup and tyre pressure a go first... they are basically free adjustments which you can look into before spending money (uhh obviously pay for alignment though), and will make dramatic differences if done correctly. tyre pressure? around 38psi (i run around 36psi for track work) how much power are you making? my mate had a triple plate nismo clutch and although annoying, it wasnt an issue, even his missus drove it! like you said; you've only had the car for a short while - learn to ease into the throttle rather than stabbing it. there are people with more power and crappier tyres getting better traction then you, so its definately not the hardware.

where are you losing traction? on the street? on the drag strip? control your right foot soften your rear suspension a bit (if it's damper adjustable) check your wheel alignment (camber) check your tyre pressure shouldnt have traction problems with your mods and power level...

they seem to cost about the same to run

so out of all the pictures posted only myself and phillb have black cars with black rims... nice one fellas

http://www.vivagarage.com/?brand=164&pid=prd# this is their old site... it's proper rooted; but the link is there. new site here. http://www.vivagarage.com.au/Home%20Page/Home.html