Eug

certainly do look pretty (when clean). black looks good most of the time... p.s - looks like your missing a few shims, backing plates and wire clips.

one of these?? mine's from carmate - needed to be sanded back in a few areas, but the thing i found was cool was that it had threaded bolt holes which line up to the stock mounting points. no sikaflex or glue needed.

eish... my bad. doesnt the caliper sit on the back of the hub? do the caliper designs vary? (wouldnt think so). cant remember now miish that didnt make any sense to me... shouldnt the caliper itself offset for the larger rotor? why is the hub-brake bracket too big?

- i'm pretty sure the hubs are the ones that are threaded. cant help you with the lug issue sorry - cant see it being a problem, as long as it seats the calipers centre and firmly. - not sure about 34 GTR -> 32 GTR, but I ran into a similar issue when i did my brake conversion and ended up getting custom braids done up. basically hybridized the fittings from the lines off both models. ADR approved as well. got it from this mob: http://www.mobileautohoses.com.au they are based in brisbane, but maybe they can recommend someone down your way?

gary, are the dust covers supposed to fit a little loosely around the shock? (i.e. the shock slides up and down within the dust cover) or is it supposed to be relatively sealed? (i.e. the dust cover compresses and extends with the shock, whilst remaining held onto the bump stop and the top of the shock?) i was thinking of lubricating the top are of the shock to allow the dust cover to slide around easily - but i think this will only accumulate more dirt and grime. any ideas? it's not really doing its job if it keeps falling off.

did you cut the bumpstops in 1/2?? a mate and i have the same problem with the dust covers, they get a little tight around the shock and get pulled down and off the bump stops. i got in contact with gary and told me that it was just an isolated incident and the x amount of people who've bought this setup haven't had problems. apparently not. i've zip tied the dust covers onto the bump stops and that seems to work a little, the bottom of the dust covers still gets caught on the top of the shocks, rather than around them. i think longer dust covers are required. this is all of course on the recommended 345/355 height setting

this coming from the guy that drove a green striped 33?

Sounds great Nick... i'd like one of those catbacks now.

who said the gtr was a mountain climber? the evo would absolutely smash a gtr on the mountains i take it you are the other dude who also voted evo... :sorcerer:

this is getting difficult to understand. 6 throttle bodies (or in your case surge tank/plenum) is better for response. standard RB plenums are supposedly quite good standard

what are your thoughts on road tuning gary (or anyone else for that matter)? my mechanic is a complete gun... gets the job done well, has the patience and attention to detail i've yet to find in other mechanics, but absolutely hates dynos. reason being is that he thinks that it doesn't simulate regular driving conditions as much as being on the actual street. what he does is throw in a wide band and take it for a "drive" and tunes it on the go. i've seen his road tunes on a 3rd party dyno, and his afr's are dead on perfect and almost always quite a linear power curve. he likes to tune cars with a more progressive power delivery. i don't exactly know how he does it... but i've yet to hear a single negative thing (problem) out of all the cars that have gone there. obviously on a dyno you can watch everything, and have numerical figures to confirm and diagnose. so again what are your thoughts on this kind of tuning?

actually i pulled the dash cluster out of the 33 today, and right beside the hicas light is a spot which says CRUISE. my brother's rex is manual and came with cruise control, it's sweet for those long highway runs.

in for page1

i say go the evo... a much sweeter and driveable package with minor mods. you'll be throwing money at the gtr non stop

non type-m: the sliding piston calipers use a banjo bolt (well mine did) type-m: use a fitting with a rotatable threaded section it's not difficult to check for yourself - better check to make sure, as the banjo bolts are normally longer than the steel fittings. i had my braided lines made up custom for a hybrid between the two types. p.s - m12 x 1.25 is the thread pattern for wheel studs

sounds good Sean, what rpm were you shifting at? mine has the typical NA twin cam rapsy howl after 4000rpm. i'd like it to be as horny as the M3, but it's not happening. what catback do you have?

hahaha yes nick... i did that for about 3 months; the road noise, exhaust noise, and lack of rear seats made things quite uncomfortable. like my trimmings too much - that said, there was a noticeable improvement.

this is all starting to lead into technicalities... while justification, numbers and calculations is good and all - what it comes down to is what is good and works. so get listing! - i've heard that the pros for a lightened flywheel outweigh the cons (however this is 'apparently' not the case for drag racing turbos) - any sort of reasonably sized exhaust and extractors will work better than standard anything else?

turbo cars respond better to mods. NA cars, not so much - gains would be around the 10-15kw territory. basically all you can do is lean out the fuel mixtures and dial in a little more timing. that said, i've just bought a SAFC to clean up my air fuel ratios... definitely NOT a bang for buck mod - but definitely helpful.

lmao.. gotta love those glenns

glad to see it's still around... in good nick i take it?

love it how nissan is finally looking into camshaft switching!!! next step is 3d profiled camshafts - bring on ferrari technology! on a downside - i can see this messing with alot of aftermarket turbo/tuning options.

a little long winded, but nicely put Ashley.

atmo is just shorthand for atmosphere/atmospheric, which basically just means naturally aspirated.