Eug

how much did they set you back? i'd be keen to see a pic too, this is a coby set i bought recently.

not to mention the amount of black crap thats going to be coming out the back. a highflow cat is a much cheaper and practical option. that said... a hammer does wonders

but the point is that you wouldn't need all that "power" on the street anyway... so basically you'd only open it up for track.

wrong section dude...

spot on buddy. i've had a quick look into revs before. as most of you would know the best way to make power from NA is with revs. it costs a bucketload!! even with an ATI balancer (which isnt really that cheap) - it still is a "bandaid" type fix. with all the knifeblading the crank and balancing, hypereuretic pistons, re-enforced block, etc etc... you are better off starting with a more solid base. you will be pretty much replicating what manufacturers do over a period of years - R&D. and it's not going to be cheap. also by having a car that makes power in revs, it's not going to be practical on the street - you'd pretty much end up with a dedicated track monster.

stockymcstock has twin charged an RB30DE.... it's very very impressive! check the RB30DET thread.... there's a few pics and videos

like this?

hmm... would be keen to see how it sounds. for some reason twin cam NA's seem to be quite difficult to find a suitable not too loud, but not too quiet type exhaust. 6 weeks is a long wait... i'll be keen for a sound file or video.

so is that sideways one way, then the other way, then back the other way?

it's easier for people to quote a dyno number than to quote a lap time. that said, i think people have more power than they know what to do with.

check the lining under the bonnet. there should be a sticker where it says what idle is

like i said on saturday noel... highflow. cheap and reliable... 250 is quite easy with bolt on's.

headers are expected at partsco tomorrow or thursday.

the significant difference between an RB26 and RB25 head mainly lies in the valves and valve springs, nothing a few upgrades and a port and polish should be able to achieve. probably a few other things too. the ITB from an RB26 alone is worth a few pennies, and a custom adapter plate can be fabricated from a CAD program. just trying to deal with the custom stuff on the cheap side will be the real mission. then you will have to adapt the throttle cables and deal with R&D into runner intake lengths etc etc etc. very cool, but not without people who can help you out cheaply

glad you can see and understand out point of view col. again hats off to the execs. power figure wise, it doesn't matter if it's reading high or low. as long as it is consistent (which it wasn't) i suppose people prefer dyno dynamics to other dynos, because not only does it have a higher power reading. BUT it is considered a standard i.e. autosalon, etc. edit: what nathan said. top stuff

would be cool.. but to get the full potential out of a hardcore NA engine, it just wouldnt be suitable for street. the key to NA power is revs (or cubes) and since it'll only be a 3L, then you're stuck with revs... the rb26 head alone will set you back close to 2g's. prepping the block another few grand. ecu, roughly 1g - give or take. it would sound oh so sweet... and if you want to do it, then i say do it! bang for buck... i've looked into it, and i can think of alot more cheaper alternatives.

first up... nice job to the execs for pulling it off. they were organized and had most of the stuff down pat. dave was on the ball with who was running next and who needed to be ready. secondly, all star tuning - what a joke. they are the most unorganized workshop i've come across. the dyno should have been ready to roll and calibrated with the CORRECT settings well before we had the first car on. it is understandable that all dynos read differently - some high, some low. but consistency is the key, my figures were all over the shop some varying by up to +/- 20kw. the staff are NOT helpful and quite vague in answering questions and most importantly were far from enthusiastic. a good day from SAu, but a thumbs down for all star. i have felt that my time and money were wasted by an unprofessional workshop. i certainly hope we can include a well reputable 4wd dyno in future to accomodate the 33 and 34 gtr drivers without dropping the front shafts, and not favor a workshop whom some of us have had work done at. congratulations to the others. it was good to catch up with a few old faces and a few new ones too!

might be a good time to try my first run down the strip.

sweet... hopefully it'll make it easier to source a VQ

hmm... interesting. thing with the subtle differences though, will lets say a murano VQ be as rev happy as one from a 350? i would expect the murano VQ to be torquier since it'd be used as a tow vehicle/commuter. rather than a GT car. or no?

i suppose it'd be fairly detailed and he would do the whole helmet? and not a little tiny decal down the side? i know people who've had the tanks on their bikes airbrushed for figures with 3 zeros.

i cant see any problem really with poor filter design, since it should be able to run without a filter at all with no problems. my take on it is: - oil used on filter. - heat soak from engine causing high temps in the intake. that said, it's been proven that a pod filter does SFA. the turbo guys are running 200+rwkw with the standard airbox with a decent panel filter. if you really want to run a pod filter, then a custom air intake with a heat shield is a necessity.

about 2-300?

quick update: money has been received by partsco and the order has been made to coby. the hpc coated one is one taken off the shelf and is being sent straight to the hpc coaters, so hopefully we'll be able to get them sent out at the same times. coby should have them to my supplier by next week. will keep you guys posted cheers eug

can i have your VQ35DE??? that said are the murano VQ35's the same as the 350z/G35?