Eug

ahh yeah. my bad.. i was thinking of the R34 GT-X here's a link that i posted in a while back http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=106166&hl= http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/may03/skyline_gtv/

spot on... to be exact you'll probably want extractors. longer tuned length extractors will give you low end power and better torque also a tapered join will help. shorter extractors will give you better top end.

rb_turbo_bitch, juddier31 and slimvlt are actually sorta right... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=33407&hl= have a read of that thread and come to your own conclusions. p.s - unless you already have a spare rb25de lying around, i cant see why you would go to so much trouble. each to their own, read DAN666's thread

hey i've got a bit of an issue... on my front hubs i have extended wheel studs 70mm to be exact because i run spacers with my street rims - now this is fine with my street rims as i use open ended wheel nuts. for my track rims they have a centre cap design, which also requires quite a narrow socket. and thus i cant use an open ended wheel nut (which requires a socket), but will need a key design style wheel nut to really get in there. (i've never used my track rims yet) here's my predicament. ultimately i'd like to use the 1 set of wheel nuts rather than swapping em over continously etc... since the open ended wheel nuts dont look too flash with the rims that dont have a centre cap. there's a few ways to fix this: 1. cut the extended wheel studs to a more medium length, short enough for normal wheel studs, long enough to accomodate the spacer. 2. find wheel studs that are deep enough to take the longer wheel stud, and narrow enough to fit into the narrow designed rims. (problem with this is that they have to be a conservative design so that i can close them with the centre caps) I'll need some brands? names? places to get them? measurements etc. are you able to get wheel studs in a say 50mm length? 1.25 nissan thread? are you able to get wheel studs that are narrow and yet deep enough to take a longer wheel stud? most of my searchs come up with ricey anodized wheel nuts which are either too short or have no info on dimensions etc.... any outside insight/info is much appreciated!!! cheers eug p.s - i think the safest way is getting medium sized wheel studs...

ecalyptus oil normally works on clothes n stuff give it a try.. you can also buy a gum remove thing (i think big kev used to make some)

just to let you know.. parklife is next weekend 30th sept

if you get a new RB30 block you can *ahem* stamp your old engine number onto it i've heard of people grinding and sanding back the old one and *ahem* printing the new one one. getting the vvt to work is pretty much the same as having it done with the RB30DET hybrid (check the turbo section for this) basically all the fundamental principals in building the RB30DE can be obtained from the sticky in that thread... (its a looong read over 100 pages - so be prepared to do your homework)

umm.... what your saying there doesnt really much make sense.

doo it doo it.. don has an RB30DE with twin throttle bodies, and badr33 has just done it as well... both with quite nice results... from what i gather the power to cost gains arent overly good, but its damn good to have something different. i'd honestly like to do this conversion hey go all out with this motor would be sweet. RB26 head, individual trumpets, light weight pistons and all the supporting gear for a good 8,9 maybe even 10k redline would be sweeeeeeeeeeeeet. just not the price though http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...4&hl=rb30de http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...9&hl=rb30de http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...2&hl=rb30de http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0&hl=rb30de

while someones has mentioned brakes... i have ADR approved braided telfon coated front braided brake lines. cost me $220 for a pair - you can get them. just need to look. there's a mob that does mobile auto hose repairs.... cant remember the number, they do good work and come to your place.. obviously because you'd have to take whatever hose off the car.

interested... PM sent

well i'd like to say that even with volks you'll be ok - but i've found it seems to be on an individual basis - you'll have to look into the thickness and height of the rotor hat, etc, spoke design. i suppose you'll find out when you do it. so keep that in mind - as there's no real way to measure the "X-factor" of the spokes. offset has some part influence but not entirely. well you are going down the same lines as me as i have custom DBA 4 stud r32 gtst front slotted rotors and redrilled r32 gtst rear rotors - also because i had a set of rims i didnt want to get rid of. to answer your question: yes some gtst's have abs. i am not sure what the implications are of using RWD GTST calipers and rotors with an R33 GTS4 setup. to be safe I'd be more inclined to go with a GTR setup or an R32 GTS4 setup - just so it doesnt mess with your attessa system. what i'm currently looking into now and one of the reasons for going with an R32 GTST brake setup is that the 180SX/S13 stud pattern is the same i.e. 4x114.3, and the thing is that they also have the same diameter rotor discs. sooooo.... my point is that it MAY be possible to run R32 GTST calipers with 180SX rotors, thus not having to get custom rotors/redrilling rotors all the time and also giving the option of slotted/cross drilled rotors which are not so readily available for the non-turbo skylines. of course then there's measurements of the rotor hat and that may put measurements out again. hope this helps and puts things into perspective

i believe all gts4s have abs? if so then you will need gtr brakes. if not then it should be alright. rotors and calipers are a very good upgrade if you like the occassional track work or like a well handled car without having the issues and ongoing costs of a turbo car. i have an r33 gts with r32gtst calipers and rotors front and rear... so far the only issue has been my spokes from my rims not clearing the bigger brakes. i've got a street set of 17x7 rims which run spacers, and a track 17x8 rims which do not require spacers... its all about the spoke design - so its best to do the conversion BEFORE you buy rims.

apexi SAFC? or powerchip? http://www.powerchipgroup.com/index.asp something like that.. there's a handful around - just comes down to what is easiest to tune, and if there's anyone in your area that can... no point buying something and having to take the car interstate just so someone can throw it on the dyno to tune.

ja matt i see your point, but this is when you start looking into practically... and the whole theoretically sound thing too deeply they are "theoretically sound" as in that they are attempting (and quite badly i might add) to force more air into the intake... they are theoretically sound otherwise idiots wouldnt be buying them would they? we all on the same wavelength though.

its absolute rubbish, dont buy any sort of "power intake" or "power increaser" or "power chip" thing from ebay... they theoretically sound good... but are far far from it

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...67&hl=ecr33 here's one i prepared earlier... fhrx is pretty much spot on... front staging is far more important than the rears. having speakers behind you are more of a rearfill... as opposed to the conventional surround sound when sitting in your home theatre. pretty much the only reason to have 6x9s is as a replacement for a subwoofer, since the area of a single 6x9 speaker is roughly more than a single 8" sub. if you do go for a 6" or 6.5" fronts and 6x9 rears and tune your headunit and amp you normally turn on a setting that sets up front staging, i.e you cut the treble and mid from the rears. if you do decide to add a sub, then you will turn on the treble and mid and turn off the bass from them. and let the sub take care of the bass. the upside of having 3-way 6x9s is that you can run it with or without a sub, and not have to change speakers. and still get the desired effect

6x9s are not an issue to fit into the rear parcel shelf. will take you 1/2 a day to have a standard looking 6x9 shelf with no spacers made up and put in.

like SK said. i have also found that its much easier to jack the entire front or entire rear of the car up when dealing with suspension. rather than just 1 corner or the entire car on axle stands if possible...

check all your fuses... might have busted some

yup he's got a custom surround trim and everything.. i win!

i'm looking at the tiptronic buttons on the steering wheel and manual shifter?

your two dad's wouldnt happen to be singing with the village people no? j.k

wierdly enough he added me to msn a few weeks back...

whats the diameter of the wheel? 320mm? 350mm? is it genuine?