Eug

you did what nine months ago??? cute bub - congratulations guys

he's not talking about gear ratios... he's talking about AFR (air to fuel ratio) basically its air:fuel a 12.8:1 ratio means that the mixture going into the motor has 12.8 times more air (mass) than fuel

lol $500 is cheap!! you got to think about, brake pads, rebuilt calipers, maybe master cylinder, the little shim kit, brake fluid, then wheel alignment. ahaha it all ads up. or you could just buy them chuck em on and not worry about the details, but with brakes its not something you'd want to skimp on back when i did mine about a year ago up probably cost about $800+. i've got r32 gtst slotted dba rotors with custom 4 studs r32 gtst front calipers with ADR approved telfon coated braided lines r32 gtst standard rear rotors redrilled to 4 stud r32 gtst calipers running bendix ultimates on the front, and some random brand rears also running motul rbf600 brake fluid. new shim kit from nissan was ~$100, and a rebuild (forgot how much) brakes considerably better than the old set (basically twice as many pistons now) from 6 to 12 more importantly less brake fade! also brakes pretty hard that the nose just dips and lifting the rear end making it a bit loose edit: just noticed you had a gts4, which means you'll probably have abs narrowing your choices. i'd be more inclinded to spend a little more and go with gtr running gear.

take a look on the DBA website. there should be a pdf file there with all the specs on rotor diameter, thickness, hat size, etc.

around 500ish from the wreckers i suppose. recommend to get your calipers rebuilt too as you dont know how long they've been sitting there. i've done the gtst brake caliper upgrade (keeping 4 stud) NA_R33 has done the whole 5 stud upgrade incl. calipers

hey guys, photos got deleted off the gallery when christian made some changes to the site... i dont know if i can dig up any photos, i'll try to hunt for them. basically i had an aluminum sheet 1-2mm thick, and had them bent at appropiate places to have the AFM coming in at the right angle. i then had 90º brackets made up and attached. the aluminum sheet was then covered in a foam/foil adhesive on both sides. basically it goes like this: foil/foam - aluminum sheet - foam/foil the sheet had a hole just enough for the lip of the afm to peek through - the pod was then bolted. i also had a small section off the top cut out to re-attach the snorkel from the original airbox... its a bit home-spec, but it its neat and does the job. and will only cost you something like $20. you can get the insulation from places like clark rubber. i've never had the fuzz check my car let alone my engine bay, so i cant comment there...

p.s - make it the first week july. do we need to be driving for a number? i'm getting butterflies just thinking about josh.. i mean.. the event

phase three is uber horny... cant wait for you to pull it off johnny

negatory

nice work jay, sounds like alot of fun

ohh yes do it.. i went through a phase where i was looking at it, reading up on it and dreamt of doing it... if i had the cash to spare i would jump at the oppurtunity to build something RB based to the near equivalent of the m3 motors... it would sound and go like a greyhound with heat rub on its nuts!!

cheers, cud be done in a day if u really sat down and planned it all out. ran 6x9s because i dont particularly want subs. i'm not a big audiophile, and partly due to the fact that i'd need to build an install and lose some boot space - though now i may be considering a sub amps and deadening - i've caught the bug.

rough date? uni exams are coming up... i am a tentative maybe.

yip. BADR33 over in NZ had one of these before he threw in an RB30DE. i'd say its pretty much exactly the same as his was, series II, 96, silver ECR33. well - seems like you got yourself a fairly clean car with some nice wheels and audio. doesnt make ur loss as bad as it could have been. just learn from it and do your research before jumping into the deep end next time. get it fully serviced, oils, filter, brake pads, check rotors, gearbox fluid, diff fluid, etc. and you should be set for another 10 000km.

are there rims? suspension? bodykit? stereo? that came with the car? how is the overall condition of the car? i would be trying to get some money back otherwise if it were advertised to you as an RB25DE. depending on overall condition + mods, i'd say you paid abt 1-2g more than you should have.

2L single cam, depending on the price you paid - you might have been ripped off badly. and to make it "smoother" would be a full service.

leo2nv: dont really need one thats considerably thicker, you'd get away with 10mm, not to mention all those little lumps on the parcel shelf that the mdf sits on makes it sit a little higher. its all about the angle that the speakers sit. ok got around to carpetting the thing, and finishing it off... here's the final product.

can i bring my friend along, he's got a 25/30...

dude... what mods have you done to the RB20DE to get that sort of power?

That's Larry Page's cars i believe... there's a picture missing from that series that proves it. everyone is to sign a declaration form saying they will not damage, release directions and etc etc.

i heard this too...

i guess if u got the dosh and wanna be out there and do something different then do it! BADR33 has just done something like that - and it looks pretty cool. that kinda power *may* be possible - however not with just simple light mods - say bumping up the compression a bit, like you said port and polish, bigger throttle body, and nitrous, better fuel mixture, safc or ecu + retune, tuned lenth extractors, exhaust, OR individual throttle bodies, balanced everything, and rev it to 10k and it'll sound like a dog with its nuts on fire. to run 14s, maybe diff, massive weight reduction, slicks and a good suspension setup and clutch. hardly a street car anymore and unless you can justify the costs the gains will not be great... that said if u want to do it, and can do it - go for it, it'll be fully siik ul3h. cheers eug ohh.. you can probably throw reliability out of the window (as with anything u pretty much anything you modify to increase in whatever it is it does, shortens the lifespan) mods are inversly proportional to costs and reliability. LOL

u'd put the rears on the rear struts... easier on the r32s as there's no battery and stuff like in the r33s. r33s there's two major types of strut braces: - one which sits on top of the struts and sits above the parcel shelf. - one which sits on the rear side of the struts, and comes into the boot area (ie. series ii and gtr comes with them as standard (or an option - i forget)

i have both front and rear strut braces in my r33, and i know its not a r32 - but i have found minimal improvements in handling (indicating that maybe my strut towers have very minimal movement - and hence no need for them) however - the best money i've ever spent in handling would have to be swaybars, followed very closely by turbo item brakes. so maybe look into them if your considering some handling improvements

sounds like you've got a gts4, a turbo motor will be quite difficult to find as you'd be after a stagea front cut... and even then it'll be manual (suppose u cud use ur gearbox) lotsa ideas - comes down to your budget, once you suss that out then your in a position to make choices...