Eug

pretty much what psybic said... be possible to swap with na pistons to bring compression up, na chipped ecu or a gts link ecu, and replace manifold with extractors. or instead of pistons - maybe a really really thin head gasket, deck the block or the head abit. injectors shud be fine with a chipped/aftermarket ecu and obviously a retune car will drive like a total slug otherwise. its alot of work - and like above an RB25DE would be a cheaper option, or RB30DE the added bonus would be the bigger brakes.

just wait till you see france.... they got that uber big roundabout around the Arc de Triomphe with 4-5 imaginary lanes going around... its insane... one of the worse traffics in the world cos everyone is too snobby to let you go. i'd say its worse than the undeveloped countries like the one in the video

thanks alot guys (especially rocketboy) i am 99.99% on not wanting a seperate tweeter setup - i know it will be better, but i'm not that pedantic and just want something decent to listen to while i drive. i'll give all that a go and see where i stand on wanting a 4 chan amp... then if i'm still not happy then i MAY look into a small 10" sub, bridge the amp and run the 6x9s off the headunit. cheers again.

also while he's on the topic of tv tuners, what's the go with digital tv? are there digital tv tuners out there?

hi, i'm not a big audiophile and not looking into win any sq or db comps - but I do enjoy my music and would like to get the most out of my system. at the moment I have some pioneer 3 way 6.5" for the fronts (35w rms), and some pioneer 3 way 6x9" (40w rms) for the rear. i am not interested in getting a sub hence the 6x9" for rear fill. they are running off my pioneer mp3 headunit 4x50w (i guess around 20-25w rms) i have thought about the idea of getting a 4 channel amp, but would like to see where i stand with having the speakers running off the headunit before deciding to buy one. also does the "underpowering a sub and ruining it" theory apply to smaller speakers? are there any hints or rules of thumb for setting things up? (excuse the terminology - please someone correct me) for example? high pitched sounds coming from the fronts. (mid - high range?) low deep bass sounds coming from the rears. (low range?) - bit of a waste for getting 3 way 6x9"s no? yes? i have looked through the handbook for the headunit, and there seems to be a few settings that i can fiddle with. - compression and bmx (lets you adjust the sound playback) ........- comp. function balances the output of louder and softer sounds at high volumes. ........- bmx controls sound reverberations to give playback fuller sound - obviously there's an equalizer setting with a few pre-sets, and a custom one available allowing for finer adjustments of the curve - there is a loudness setting, which compensates for deficiencies in the low and high sound ranges at low volume - front image enhancer (fie) function which enhances the front stage by cutting mid and high range frequency from the rear speakers. you can cut out (100Hz, 160Hz and 250Hz) from the rear speakers. i have had a look through caraudioaustralia.com and icecavern and a few other car audio forums - but haven't been able to find a tutorial of sorts as to how to "tune" a system without using an amp. from what i've gathered and read so far, would i be correct in: setting the equalizer at a flat setting first, then tune my own custom one? or would i use one of the pre-set ones and fine tune it (how?) from there, then apply the other settings such as comp/bmx, loudness and fie? then by listening to it? as opposed to applying all my wanted settings ie. comp/bmx, loudness and fie - then adjusting the equalizer to suit? any ideas or tips on how i should set up the equalizer? and which Hz should i cut out from the rear speakers? (250Hz)? i mainly listen to some chunky house, with odd bits of vocal trance and techno, which has me a bit confused as i would also need to keep some clear low frequency around. sorry for the long ask - if anyone can help, would be much appreciated. cheers eug

pb = eleventy hours...kthnxbai

its called a golf flag....

i find your comment about having face to confront someone slightly hipocritical - considering he was the one who didnt have face to confront those he ripped off. that said, its good to see that you are being mature about it and do realise that he was in the wrong - hopefully your brother comes out of it a better man.

o jeez man.. thanks for giving me th heads up.... some hero you are

yup - the same guy... the people all at crusingbrisbane and some from boostcruising idolize the guy and think he's some sort of hero. he's scammed people from SAu and heaps of other forums, and made insurance and traffic laws tougher on all of us... some hero.

i know of it to be an r34 option... do you have a site or something for the r33 - sounds interesting.

a mate of mine had an audio shop throw 6x9s into his 33 gtr on a custom mdf shelf. after doing alot of research and having a look at elbee's photos, i decided to undertake this project. here's some photos first, and if anyone is interested i might make this thread into a tutorial. just thought i'd put the final word in what elbee has been trying to say for a long time - that it is possible to fit 6x9 inch speakers in an ecr33 without having to hack into the parcel shelf or using ugly spacers and without fouling the hicas or battery. note: all 6x9s are different, its best to go onto the website - measure the mounting depths and ensure you have enough clearance. do your homework before buying or cutting anything and it will save you alot of trouble. to get the mdf cut, and all the vent holes and rear windscreen wiper bits done and sorted took all up around 3-4 hours. i'm a pedantic person so i kept going back and re-fitting everything, cut and re-fit, cut and refit. mdf 13mm mdf clears the hicas easily another angle of hicas almost done sitting flush, no spacers clears the battery terminals cheers eug p.s - all that's left is to carpet or vinyl the thing and fit it... soon-ish search tag: custom parcel shelf MDF 6x9 spacer fabricate legal cutting

still here actually, $100 ono

lmao....

you will have to open the motor anyway to build something that will rev to 10k... rb30s are apparently known to have harmonic balancer issues in the high rev range, so you may want to look into something there ideally i believe the best NA RB combination would be an RB26 head with individual throttle bodies and trumpets, donked onto an RB30 block and with those light weight hypereutertic (sp?) pistons and like Maxx said 12.1:1 compression or even 13, depending on how much money your willing to pour in and the quality of your fuel...

as far as i know the series 2 is shaped a little differently and has different cloth pattern. i have a series 1 and can swap the seats easily enough, but the guy compliancing it insists on a series 2 seat for the car. wierd. cheers anyway mud =) eug

I am after an ECR33 Series II front driver's seat. It's for compliance as this car has a bucket seat, if anyone is willing to lend one for a day or two - there's an offer for a carton of beer, or state your price otherwise. If anyone is keen on selling please PM me your price. note: condition doesnt really matter, but it does have to be a series II. cheers. eug

got any pics?

reckon you can source a black type-m front bar for a series 1 r33

the pull the atessa fuse trick as far as i know only works safely with R32's for R33's you will need to have a torque split convertor, or start pulling some bits out, an alternative is to learn 4wd drifting... i'm sure there's a clip floating around of pva glue getting a little sideways in a gts4

get someone else to bleed it... you are meant to begin bleeding calipers from the one which is furtherest away from the master cylinder. so in the case of a skyline, rear left, rear right, front left, then front right. well thats the unwritten rule anyway and i've never had a problem.

like zappn said its used to activate a pulley system to open a flap for the standard skyline exhaust. it should activate around ~3500rpm (off the top of my head) eug

supply and demand... especially with other states having power to weight restrictions on P platers - people are willing to pay slightly more for the compromise

you can spend as much as you would like on it.... or are you asking how much you would pay for one? - auto = cheaper - is it a sedan? - 2L? 2.5L? - overall condition? - how many km has it done? - rust? dents? - modifications.... once you can answer or address these kinda questions then you can start putting price figures down. eug

yeah wasnt it just recently rebuilt? and how is a gearbox issue the same as an engine issue?