trick

hey guys anyone know where i can buy cheap black 60mm round silicone? i need around 1.5m...... ive sussed ebay already but not sure if anyone knows anywhere else. cheers mike

PM (BoostdR)from SA i know he has a late 32 RB26. mike

there are no cons for running a power fc........ all good

ive had similar issues with power fcs and earths (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/349571-erratic-tps-34-gtr/, earthing pin #60 of the ecu to the chassis ground had a physical effect on the voltage to the problem at the time. clearing the signal to the atessa. its a simple job. could fix the stutter issue of the fc

yeah only earth the pin 60 to gnd (chassis)the tps and ecu use the sensor gnd. earthing the pin #60 should have no effect on the idle, tps or cas. can always sus out the earth by taking it off again and see if the idle comes good and it goes back to before.

brilliant advise i second that....would throw in a power fc but

yeah same gauge wire is fine. also does your car still have the turbo shield earth strap, that does help too.

sounds dodge, just wants to know who has what car and where you live i say. you know they can pull details off a photo, where it was taken etc

could be the fuel pump, can you hear the pump run when you turn the ignition on?

hey it does sound like a simular issue i had. if your getting a erratic negative voltage from the tps at the fc when earthing to chassis then run a temporary new earth from pin #60 (fc gnd) to the chassis (like where the fc bolts up) and then re test the signal from the tps to the fc ( pin #38)and see if it clears up the weak signal. your correct you should read over 300mv as the attesa uses that signal. to answer your question im not sure on the resistance but it should be minimal.

hey mark. actually have the same issues with a mates car. having to take the head off and reduce the oil restrictor down to 1.0mm, pain in the arse i know but the engine was coming out anyway in regards to the nismo catch can i have one installed in my 34 gtr, i have -5's too and 1.4bar of boost and i have no oil problems and am running a n1 oil pump but not sure on the restrictor size, i didnt build the engine any way the nismo catch can will drain the oil away perfectly but it depends how much oil your getting in the head, if its filling the head quickly and you blow smoke staright away i think the head needs to come off a catch can wont fix that but if its only after a track day and continous high revs then it blows smoke a nismo catch can might do the trick the nismo catch can drains with the turbo drain, included in the kit is a Y piece, not too hard to fit, easier than taking the head off anyway mike

ok have a 34 gtr v spec 2. once we fitted the fc and tuned it the car didnt always start. trippled checked all the fc settings but still the car didnt always start. the std immobiliser on the 34 has a red led alarm light on the dash when the car doesnt start the light is in solid state.. but turning the car off and on again a few times it finally starts, on occasion we can hear a relay clicking in the bonnet when the car wont start. putting the std ecu back in fixes the problem, so its another fc issue (i think) my question is there a diognostic for this type of fault that will lead us in the right direction to fix this problem. the relay clicking could not have enough voltage to open or shut it causing the immobiliser to shut it down. what does the solid state mean when the immobiliser wont let you start the car. any help would be great mike

ah i see, yeah the tps remains the same 5v, but only when i test it with the tps earth. if i test the 5v with the chassis ground is where the problem lies. thats when i get the negative mv. from what ive found 9correct me if im wrong, is that the signal for the handcontroller uses the tps earth giving it 5v. when i test the signal wire #56 which the fc use to translate the tps signal to the attesa it uses the chassis earth which is in mv. my erratic mv signal dropping to the negative trips the fualt. SO i put another earth from pin #60 (fc main gnd) to the chassis, where the fc bolts onto the chassis including the fc bracket. What this did is stop my negative mv reading and brought it up to 300mv around there but not in the negative. This in any way has not affected the 5v reading to the tps or hand controlled its simply having a better ground to the fc so far i have not had the fault come on, YET!!!! so far so good. keeping the signal to the attesa in the posative mv range seems to have fxed it, but i havnt got my hopes up thanks to all who have spent the time to post on this thread. ill post back here if it fails again

Pulled out vin tps once running. Fault came up and tps signal went to 0.00 and black background on the sensor. Checked tps signal wire to tps earth read 0.5v. Then checked tps signal wire to chassis earth it came up with the negative mv reading. So checking figures to chassis earth gives me the negative reading. Still once the voltage reading spikes negative the fault comes on.

i got the negative mv reading from the tps wire at the fc (#38) but only once the car is running. when the ignition is only on its fine at 0.568 v. once i start the car the #38 wire starts at a low 100mv and slowly drops to the negative mv, can range up to -138mv then the fault light comes on. this does not happen all the time if the mv signal stays around -0.70 consistantly or under -0.7mv, the fault light does not come on but if it spikes lower it faults. but sometimes it stays at 100mv and no fault light. could this be an earthing problem with the fc? engine or tps? Rob82 which is the 5v rail i should test to gnd? ill test all the grounds and see if i get and changes or differances

been testing the voltage at the fc. with just the ignition on the volts to the fc are 0.568, it matches the hand controller voltage. Also the output to the attessa reads the same. Once ive started the car the voltage at the fc slowly drops to -0.36mv, as if its lost the signal but the hand controller still states it has 0.5v. now im confused. is this a correct reading for tps output or is this why my fault light is coming on?, but the hand controller says its all good. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh

its very weird, sometimes it comes on straight away sometiimes it doesnt at all. nothing seems to change on the power fc sensor check page, no extra dots. once the lights come on it locks out some numbers on that page but nothing else. i may need to test the attesa at the back and check the signal. if its the abs wouldnt that come up as a fault code?

hey paul, been playing around again with the tps setting it from 0.47v to 0.55 v just to see whats happening. since playing around the lights come up about 30 seconds once ive started the car. the fault codes are 72 (tps), but it also flashes 12? what is 12 code? mike

hey Paul or anyone else, do you have the pin diagram for the actual attesa computer, so i can check the tps signal is getting to the attesa? thanks

Mmmm fair enough. I think ill buy a new tps and go from there. Cheers again

UPDATE: played around with the tps, fluid level and still having the lights come on. thought i had it sussed but it still came on after a few days my question is has anyone done the wire mod where you cut the pin #56 and join it to the pin #38 on a gtr? i read the forums and seems everyone was having issues with a gtst with alsd. is there a way to test if the alsd is getting the tps signal thanks mike

Will consider all offers guys

hey guys im helping sell a mates 33 GTST. any queries you can pm me or call the guy who owns the car (Adam 0411 114 580) This 33 is one of the nicest ive ever seen and been in, will sell quick so get in first. White 1995 Nissan Skyline ECR33 Gts-T Approximately 135.000kms - $15,000 O.N.O Always garaged, serviced every 5.000kms with Motul full sinthetic 8100 excess and NGK platnum spark plugs... Full 400R body kit (Front bar, side skirts, rear pods, rear bar, Gt-R rear wing, White rear skyline panel) 180sx clear front indicators Nismo clear side indicators Phillips Crystal vision low and high beam globes Phillips Crystal vision parker and number plate globes Tinted Windows Full alarm system (internal and external microwave sensors, tilt sensors, auto window up, black wire, 3 point immobilisation) 18 inch Rays Engineering Volk Racing SF Challenge wheels (8i nch wide front and 9 inch wide rear) Bridgestone Potenza Re-001 Adrenalin Tyres (85% 235/40 front 90% 265/35 rear) DBA 4000 series slotted and cross drilled rotors (front and rear) EBC red stuff front pads EBC black stuff rear pads Tein Coil over Suspension Front Adjustable upper control arm bushes Front Radius rod bushes Front Sway bar bushes Gt-R rear strut brace Nismo Front strut brace Nismo Front Sway bar Nismo Rear sway bar Nismo Short throw shift kit Apexi turbo timer Apexi Power FC Apexi Power FC hand controller Apexi power FC boost control kit Apexi front mount inter cooler Apexi blow off valve Hks Panel filter Exeddy Heavy duty clutch JunBL exhaust Custom 3 inch turbo back exhaust system with cat replacement pipe Custom turbo (Garret Gt-25 bal bearing core with high flowed VG30 front and rear housings enlarged waste gate and waste gate flap) Custom Black and Blue leather parcel shelf Custom Blue gear shift and handbrake boots Custom Blue Guage set-up under head unit (Oil pressure, Oil temp, Boost) Illuminous dash cluster Pioneer P-9350 Head unit Pioneer 6.5 inch Front splits Pioneer 8 inch rear 3 ways Pioneer 12 inch sub Pioneer 4 channel amp Pioneer mono block amp

hey guys im helping sell a mates 33 GTST. any queries you can pm me or call the guy who owns the car (Adam 0411 114 580) This 33 is one of the nicest ive ever seen and been in, will sell quick so get in first. White 1995 Nissan Skyline ECR33 Gts-T Approximately 135.000kms - $15,000 O.N.O Always garaged, serviced every 5.000kms with Motul full sinthetic 8100 excess and NGK platnum spark plugs... Full 400R body kit (Front bar, side skirts, rear pods, rear bar, Gt-R rear wing, White rear skyline panel) 180sx clear front indicators Nismo clear side indicators Phillips Crystal vision low and high beam globes Phillips Crystal vision parker and number plate globes Tinted Windows Full alarm system (internal and external microwave sensors, tilt sensors, auto window up, black wire, 3 point immobilisation) 18 inch Rays Engineering Volk Racing SF Challenge wheels (8i nch wide front and 9 inch wide rear) Bridgestone Potenza Re-001 Adrenalin Tyres (85% 235/40 front 90% 265/35 rear) DBA 4000 series slotted and cross drilled rotors (front and rear) EBC red stuff front pads EBC black stuff rear pads Tein Coil over Suspension Front Adjustable upper control arm bushes Front Radius rod bushes Front Sway bar bushes Gt-R rear strut brace Nismo Front strut brace Nismo Front Sway bar Nismo Rear sway bar Nismo Short throw shift kit Apexi turbo timer Apexi Power FC Apexi Power FC hand controller Apexi power FC boost control kit Apexi front mount inter cooler Apexi blow off valve Hks Panel filter Exeddy Heavy duty clutch JunBL exhaust Custom 3 inch turbo back exhaust system with cat replacement pipe Custom turbo (Garret Gt-25 bal bearing core with high flowed VG30 front and rear housings enlarged waste gate and waste gate flap) Custom Black and Blue leather parcel shelf Custom Blue gear shift and handbrake boots Custom Blue Guage set-up under head unit (Oil pressure, Oil temp, Boost) Illuminous dash cluster Pioneer P-9350 Head unit Pioneer 6.5 inch Front splits Pioneer 8 inch rear 3 ways Pioneer 12 inch sub Pioneer 4 channel amp Pioneer mono block amp

I know of a very very sweet/quick white 33 for sale for 14500. one of the cleanest in adelaide mike