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Showing results for tags '25det'.
Found 7 results
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Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
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hello once again anyone out there got a english translated spec sheet from nissan or even home made that passed for a rs4/rs. about to buy a rs but willing to do a cheeky photoshop to pass the rs someone PLEEAASSEEE help asap
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hey everyone, long time reader first time poster. before i start ill just let you know I'm no mechanic or car wiz! trying to learn though so i bought my first car (1993 r33 gts) when i was 17 and it is still my current car to this day being the third owner since imported. as the laws in my state don't allow high powered vehicles on P plates i opted for the NA version as I've always loved skylines and i found one for a good deal. over these 4 years I've done a fair bit of work to the car because i wanted it to be the best version of itself, the main things being brand new turbo gearbox with short shifter, heavy duty clutch, full body kit, new wheels, bc racing coilovers, moulded fenders, interior work and much more, fair to say this car is in way better shape now than when i bought it. i spent a while trying to make this car easy to swap a new engine into when I'm on my full license but I've read forums saying "no point" or "just sell it and buy a turbo its not worth the effort" so i guess my question is do you guys think it can be a reliable enough swap that's worth doing if done right or just f**k it off and buy a new car? ps. every time people look up my rego at car stores, mechanics etc. it comes back as a gtst so i think it was possibly imported as a gtst and has been swapped out prior to me owning it, as I've been told i also have all the gtst badges on my car.
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Hey guys, Hope this is in the right place. Looking for some help with an issue, have done lots of searching\reading but still unsure. Will try and explain as best I can. Have an r33 sedan, the factory 25det was really tired. So when doing manual swap I put in a plus t I had that had been freshened up. All back together, car will not start or run with AFM plugged in. Will start and idle with it unplugged, plug it in while running and car will die. Some have pointed towards fuel pump being an issue. I have a walbro intank pump I will put in over the weekend to try. Have tried a second AFM, same result. Also, the vacuum line from intake plenum that would normally go to the canister at front of engine bay. If I block this while engine running it will die also which has me stumped. Any ideas of where to check etc. would be much appreciated. Cheers in advance. -
Newbie in skyline scene, fuel consumption guidance Hi guys um new in skyline scene recently bought r33 gtst 1997 and its fuel consumption is too high guys I am shocked it should not be this much my car only do 250 km per tank (55litre) it's largely stock car not bigger injectors or stuff it's everything is factory , motor is in fair condition too only 140 km on the clock but I don't understand why it's too much fuel sucker . It's turbo is not in good condition that's only thing I can notice. Does each skyline sucks fuel like mine? Some guidelines please guys thanks. -
Good morning,So I have in my possesion an r32 Im building to go sideways every now and then.It has an RB20det currently but the head is cracked, my friend is going 25det in his r34 and doesn't need his 25de neo anymore.My main question is can I throw on the 25det turbo from my 20det on to the 25de neo plumb it all in and wire it all up but still retain the factory 25de ecu?If I was to +t it I would only run wastegate pressure of 7psiIf not was is my best cheapest option for ecu?Thanks
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Hey guys, Correct me if I'm wrong, please. Am learning lots. Have obtained a 25det neo block. Just requires a head. As far as im aware S1/S2 are interchangeable for the neo block however would require different pistons to lower compression? The cost in NZ to find a neo head is through the roof, just looking at alternative options. Otherwise if this is not viable i'd just have to suck it up and find my own neo head. Thanks!
