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Recently the battery light or charge light on my car lit up and the next day, stalled while I was driving into my driveway. Below are some points which I've noticed. 1) First time the battery light came up, car drives fine. 2) Next day drove to the shops with the lights on, fine. However, after I turn ignition off at the carpark, the turbo timer ran for 2sec and the car stalled. I didnt bother trying to restart at that time and the car started fine when I return. 3) On my way driving back home, I noticed the idling wasnt very good and sounded like the car would stall while stopped at the lights. At this stage I hold my rev to keep it going. 4) Upon turning into my driveway, the car stalled after I clutched in and semi-driving the clutch. The car was not able to start or even crank after. I had to get my missus' car out to jump start. 5) Car stalled again while reversing back into the garage and was not able to start. I had to jump start the car again. At this stage I thought the battery was getting towards the end of life since I've had it for 5 years. So I went to Battery World and get a replacement even though the car was able to start the next day. The voltage at the battery when I removed it was 12.3V and the new one was 12.7V when I put it in. Unfortunately that didnt solve the problem. The car started fine after I put in the new one but was not able to crank or start after I turn off ignition and try restarting. When the car was running, I measured the voltage at the battery and was reading 13.1V. This was the maximum it got to. Everyone is suggesting its a faulty alternator and I am happy to replace it. However what I am not sure is what is required to rebuilt an alternator and who can do it? Is the voltage regulator part of the alternator or a separated device altogether? I would think the alternator is more of a mechanical hardware thing and the regulator to have some kind of electronics in it. But I am not sure what do people mean when they say rebuilding an alternator, do they mean rewinding the alternator or simply replace the regulator? Also any one got a number for towing service in brisbane? I'm paranoid about driving to my mechanic as I think it'll just stall again and not able to restart in the middle of the road... Thanks!

Getting rid of some parts out of my Garage, starting to look like a wreckers.. prices are neg, will ship for smaller items R32 GTR charcole canister $30 R32 GTR front mount intercooler (ding at the bottom) still works fine $60 RB26 metal head gasket (used but still good if your not fussy) $40 Standard R32 GTR intercooler piping kit (both sides, 4 pipes) though the first pipe from the turbo is a greddy hard pipe, not using it as i have a single turbo set up now $150 R32 GTR Bov cross over pipe $40 RB26 fuel rail and reg $40 Rb26 coil packs (started breaking down at 350ish RWKW) $50 Rb26 standard manifolds (good as a spare set if you wanna practice porting them out) $30 5x standard RB26 rods (come with pistons, thought wouldn't use them, good paper weights) $30 will sell separately R32 GTR Front Diff centre $60 Bosch 70 amp alternator $50 cheapo brand Tyres, full set 18x35x245 (good for dyno or skid tyres) $80 OEM oil filter housing/cooler $30 Also have a full set of windage tray bolts Theres probs more but ive forgotten, located sydney, contact for pics PM is fine as i check the site reqularly,

This is my first DIY so constructive criticism is always appreciated. After much searching online and failing, I thought I’ll write up how to change an RB25DET accessory belts. That is the Air-Con, Power-steering and Alternator belts. If this DIY already exists, all good here is another one. Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, I try and work things out using my own knowledge and other peoples DIY to please don’t blame me if anything goes wrong. Belts I used: Alternator: Gates Micro-VAT 4PK850 Air-Con: Gates Micro-VAT 4PH915 Power Steering: Gates Micro-VAT 3PK835 Meaning of the numbers: 4: Belt has 4 grooves, this cannot change in the replacement belt PK: Not sure, don’t think its important 850: Length of belt, you need roughly the same. All pulley systems have lots of room for adjustment for size of belt so you don’t have to have the exact same one. Have a look at what is currently installed and get something similar in size. LET THE DIY BEGIN! Firstly, you need to figure out which belt/s are worn. For me, when I had the steering at full lock with a cold engine, I would get belt squeal as well as when I turned the Air-Con. Therefore I decided to change those, as well as the alternator while I was at it. When you open the engine bay, you will see your belts such as the pics below. The the second step is to loosen the alternator pulley which is found on the left side of the engine bay, when facing the car. This will be done by loosening the bolt numbered 1 and then turning bolt number 2. You can then push the alternator towards the engine and loosen it. The next step is the removal of the fan. Using a 10mm spanner, undo the 4 bolts. It helps using WD-40 and then holding a pulley while applying force onto it. Once they are undone, remove the fan. Once the fan is removed, you need to remove the belt at the very front first. This is the power steering. I believe. To remove this, loosen bolt 3 and then turn bolt 4 to bring the nut away from the holding plate. You can then push the pulley system and loosen the belt. Once loose, the belt can be slid off. The next step is the air-con belt. To remove this, you need to get under the car and remove the underbody protector by removing the 6 screws. Once removed, you will see another bolt near the middle of the car which needs to be loosened. This will allow the tensioner to move and loosen that belt. With the bolt loose, push the tensioner. This might be really tight so use WD-40 and/or a hammer on the block circled, NOT THE PULLEY ITSELF, to move it up. Once this has moved enough, you can pull that belt off too. The last belt to be removed will be the alternator belt. Since you have already loosen it, you can just slide that off too. Once your belts are off, you can just need to reverse the process and put them back on. First alternator belt, don’t tighten this. Next the Air-con belt. Tighten aircon belt tension bolt enough so that belt twists to 90 degrees and nothing more, don’t re-install the under-body protector yet. Install power steering belt and again tighten it so you can just twist it to 90 degrees and tighten the other holding bolt. Next re-install the fan. Once the fan is tight, you can tighten the alternator belt to the same tension. Start up the car and listen for any noises. Any screeches means the belt it too loose. Power steering will screech at full lock so hold it at full lock for a few seconds. Air-con should screech as soon as you start it if it is loose. Alternator should screech at any point when the car is on. If any screeches are heard, tighten the corresponding belt using bolts 2, 4 or 5. Once all belts are tight, you can reinstall the underbody protection as we left it off in case we need to tighten the air-con belt. Go for a drive and test it out. If any screeching is heard, tighten the belt which causes. Avoid belt squeal eliminators as they are only temporary fixes which make more of a mess than solve the problem. Final Step: Enjoy your screech-less belts and pulleys !

Hi guys I've been having sporadic issues with starting my R33 Series 2 GTST - every now and then I am having to bump start the car to get the engine going. When I trying to start the engine, I can hear a turnover noise and clicking but no engine. I've tried a new battery and also replaced the alternator with the attempt to eliminate an issue with the electrics and now starting to think it could be the starter motor. Has anyone else experienced similar issues, or can give me confidence that a new starter motor should fix the issue? Thanks

I have recently finished rebuilding my engine and have noticed that the alternator is not charging the battery below 3000RPM. I have also noticed that my GTST does not have the Battery Light on, on the dashboard when the key is in the accessories position. I am aware that in some cars, the Globe forms part of the alternator exciter circuit. Is this the case with the R33? If this is the case simply replacing the globe ought to restore the exciter circuit. Anyone have any experience with this. Thank you in advance