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Haven't really had the time or money to put towards my GTS lately and I'm unsure about what's going on with my work next year, So I thought I'd put it up here in the hopes that it can go to a good home and get the care it deserves. I'm in no real hurry to sell this, And will be slowly trying to get bits and pieces done on it. Make/Model: Nissan Skyline, SVD GTS1 Year: 1988 Kilometers: 291,580 on cluster. Not sure if this is the original cluster Transmission type: R32 5 speed Engine: R32 RB20DET Colour: Resprayed in Suzuki "White pearl mica" Modifications: •R32 silver top RB20DET •RB25 Crank •RB26 Rods •Forged pistons 40thou oversized •Ross Tuff bond metal jacket harmonic balancer •Ported Head •Red top cams (longer duration) •Adjustable cam gears •O ringed head •Copper head gasket •Stainless high mount manifold •Garrett GT3072R •Braided oil/water lines •TiAL 38mm external wastegate (1bar) •Wolf3D V4 with handset, boost controller •Turbosmart BOV •Big "Deka Intimidator" AGM battery in box in boot •NSW Engineers Certificate •QLD Mod plate Registered: Yes, until 04/12 Accident History: None that I know of Asking Price: $6500, Will consider any reasonable offers. Location: Penrith, NSW Contact Details: PM me on here, or Call/Text O4O1 331 668 Other Comments: Needs some work. •Has a little rust coming up in the drivers side door jam and also in the boot under the spare. •Needs a new booster/master. Will be doing this as soon as funds allow for it. •Needs new clutch/ gearbox. I have a spare gearbox ready to go in, Just gotta get a clutch. •Needs a tune •Needs new tail lights, The ones currently on the car are cracked and leak water into the boot (hence rust under spare) •Needs some suspension work. Bushes and whatever. Has a few scratches on the paintwork, The worst probably being on the drivers side front corner where someone ran into me while I was parked when I first got the car. The drivers side seat is a bit torn on the side, which is why I have a seat cover on it. Thats all I can think of for now.

Make and Model: 1999 GC8 WRX Model Year: 1999 Registration: BQ50FO Car Condition: Road Worthy/ Registered Location: Wollongong Price: 11,000 ONO Contact details: 0411969511, [email protected] Personal Sale: Yes Read the rules: Yes Pictures: Included So I am looking at selling my WRX. Not because I want to, but living conditions have changed recently and I cannot afford to keep her at this point in time. May consider swaps but prefer to sell. I bought the car back in February from a bloke in victoria, I have since then had it passed in NSW and now has NSW rego until May 2013. Cosmetically has a few scratches, stone chips and a few little car park dings. The WRX has 187,000 on the odometer, however was rebuilt with forged pistons and rods around 20,000 km ago, have receipts for rebuild by a shop called "Pro-tek" in melbourne. As for mods it has the following: - Front Mount Intercooler - Turbosmart Supersonic BOV - VF34 turbo - 770cc Injectors - Walbro Fuel Pump - Microtech LT10 ecu currently tuned for 196kw @ 19psi. I was planning to get it retuned as I think a few parts could be a bit better fine tuned but I just havent had the money to do it. - Drift pod - Turbo back exhaust - STI 5 speed gearbox, diff and drive shafts. - Lowered on Pedders shocks and Kings Springs - Turbosmart Eboost Street (Electronic Boost Control) - Radiator only 6 months old Also has generic things like Keypad Alarm (as well as immobiliser/button alarm), Boost Gauge etc. I recently replaced the Fuel Filter, Thermostat and all exhaust gaskets from the Headers to the Dump Pipe as well, with Grimmspeed gaskets and thermostat. Brand new turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid. I thought the old one was cactus so I bought a new one, turned out the wire that goes from the eboost to the solenoid had come off causing it to run on spring pressure. It does have a tiny boost leak which starts to leak around 16-19psi. I think its probably somewhere in the intercooler piping or the bov but as you can guess, I havent had the money to get it looked at. I don't drive it that hard on a daily basis so I barely notice the leak is there. Also has a decent soundsystem in it, but could use some better front speakers. Consists of: - Pioneer double din head deck (dvd/mp3/bluetooth etc) - Kicker Splits in the front - Alpine Type R 6.5 inch speakers in the rear - Alpine 600 watt 4 channel amp - 2 x Kicker comp 10 subs - Kicker 300 watt mono amp I would be willing to take some cash off the sale without the soundsystem as I have a normal cd player I can put in etc. Looking to try and get $11,000 ono.

My R32 is for sale, Leaving the country soon so just another thing that needs to go. Its had lots of work done to it and its kept in exellent condition. Prob the tidiest R32 ive seen. Regurally serviced and I'm always ontop of the maintenance keping it top notch. Only 2 owners in Auz including myself. This machine never misses a beat! 140000ks Forged engine Arias forged pistions Shot peen rods Metal Head gasket Garrett GT2870 BB turbo HKS Dump pipe and custom 3" exhaust Nismo 550cc injectors Spitfire coil pcak New coil loom Z32 AFM Walbro 255L FP Apexi FC w/Hand controller Extreem HD Clutch Blitz SE FM Intercooler Blitz SBC ID Boost Controller Upgraded front brakes Defi gauges Full sound system Viper alarm with remote start HID lights Vertex Kit New unpainted Vertex bumper Every water/heater hose & clamps has been replaced Paint and panel In Mint as condition! Prob more ive missed Folder full of recepts going as far back as the importing process and certification in Aus Dynoed at 213rwkw, With a few tweaks and the cam gears installed it would make more Asking $12000 ONO with RWC located in Glen Iris, Melbourne 0405426701

Before I begin, let me just say that it took me several days to come up with this 2,705-word article. But I’m pretty sure this is something that would “make a difference” to the automotive industry. So I’m pretty happy that it was worth my time. Here goes… Yeah, I know. There are many wheel whores out there who can talk all day about anything and everything to do about wheels (a.k.a. rims, mags, or magwheels). When wheel whores start to talk in their language, you start hearing words like offset, diameter, PCD, and all that. As they start to get more involved in the conversation, it starts to drift into talks about engineering, design, weight, and even metallurgy. More often than not, the conversation eventually goes to Forged versus Cast wheels. Once the topic dwells on that, you can almost be 100% sure that they will start talking about the “Durability of ROTA Wheels”. Why does the conversation lead specifically to talking about ROTA Wheels? Why not any other brand? Well, let’s just say that ROTA is to wheels as Manny Pacquiao is to boxing. They’re both made in the Philippines, famous worldwide, and known to perform in their respective fields. And along with being famous comes a huge fanbase, as well as the distinctive crowd of haters. So after posting this up, I’ll probably put my flame suit on because it’s a given that you ROTA haters out there will be flaming on me in full force. What is it that these ROTA haters are so angry about? The argument in all of the many different forums are always the same – they question the durability of ROTA Wheels. Let’s make a deal. Before you start digging up some random photos of broken wheels (which are more often than not the same photos posted over and over again), and using it as an “I told you so” argument to counter this post, please back it up with proper data, as well as history behind the broken wheel incident first. Otherwise, your argument is of no value. We good? I, on the other hand, will be talking about facts. Here goes… Fact 1: Yes, ROTA Wheels are Cast wheels and not Forged. But do not question durability of wheels based on Cast and Forged. There are standards that wheel manufacurers must adhere to in order to ensure safety on road conditions. Have you ever asked yourself what wheels your brand new car came with? Or better yet, let me give you some examples of high-power vehicles, and see for yourself what type of wheels they came with: Manufacturer / Wheel Type / Size / Weight Audi TT Cast 17×7.5 29.0 BMW E36 M3 Cast 17×7.5 22.3 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 02 Cast/Spun 18×10.5 21.0 Dodge Viper – 01 Cast 18×13 32.3 Ford Mustang – Roush (made by Prime) Cast 17×8 26.5 Honda S2000 Cast 16×7.5 18.6 Mazda RX7 FD3S Cast 16×8 15.4 Nissan 240SX 95-98 LE and SE Cast 16×6.5 18.5 Porsche 944 Turbo/951 “Phone Dial” Cast 16×8 20.0 Porsche 968 Cast 17×9 23.0 Porsche 993 Cast 17×9 19.5 Porsche 996 Cast 18×10 23.4 Porsche Boxter Cast 17×8.5 22.7 Porsche Club Sports Cast 16×9 21.5 Porsche Cup Cast 18×10 29.3 Alright, so these cars come from the factory with cast wheels. So if these manufacturers found cast wheels to be good enough, then why did certain wheel manufacturers come out with forged wheels? There are many sources for you to research on the difference between casting and forging. But the simple explanation is that forged wheels are for those who demand even higher performance levels than that of cast wheels. The technology of forging allows an engineer to create a wheel design that has a higher specific strength as well as higher toughness (engineering term for ability to absorb energy) than what it could have been if it were done via casting. Basically, the idea of forging is to bring down the weight of the wheel (i.e. using less material), while still keeping it relatively strong. Why is that important? Because the people who demand this level of performance take the following metrics into consideration: Moment of Inertia, and Unsprung Mass. Of course, demanding for this level of performance comes with a premium, as forging is definitely more expensive than casting. So ask yourself first if you take into account these two metrics in your quest for better performance. If not, then aren’t you paying more for the luxury of having more expensive wheels, than for its practical benefits? Fact 2: ROTA Wheels meet all JWL and VIA standards. Because they’re supposed to! Would you be surprised if I told you that ROTA is probably the one who manufactured the OEM wheels for that car sitting in your garage? Yes, the ROTA plant is one of the biggest manufacturers of OEM wheels for various brands like Mitsubishi, Isuzu, Ford, Nissan, Toyota, and Mazda. Who else is in this type of business, you might ask? Well, in terms of large-scale OEM wheel manufacturing, ROTA’s biggest competitor is Enkei. So before we proceed any further, let’s define both JWL and VIA: “JWL” (Japan Light Wheel Alloy) is a compilation of standards defined by the Japanese Government to ensure the vehicle’s safety for aluminum road wheels. Every wheel put to market must be tested to meet JWL standards before a wheel can be put out to market in Japan. These standards are generally accepted worldwide as acceptable for most road conditions. That is why you will see these marks on European and other Asian country wheels. “VIA” (Vehicle Inspection Association Registration System ). VIA marking can only be engraved on the wheel if registered by Japan Light Alloy Automotive Wheel Testing Council after strict quality tests by the authorized testing facility on the adaptability of JWL or JWL-T (Japan Light Alloy Wheel Truck & Bus) technical standard. While other brands advertise that they have their own “additional” test standards that they say are higher than that of JWL and VIA (e.g. JWL+R for Rays Engineering, Spec-E for Enkei), ROTA Wheels also does their own additional tests like Rays and Enkei, although they just don’t advertise it (maybe they should). Why do you think the OEMs trust ROTA to manufacture their OEM wheels? To stay competitive in the OEM Wheel Manufacturing business, they must show the OEMs that ROTA’s standards are better than others, and even better than what has been set by JWL and VIA. To sum it all up, the JWL and VIA standards have been set and are accepted worldwide for aluminum road wheels for most road conditions. Putting these wheels, or any other wheels for that matter (meeting JWL and VIA standards), under anything outside of most road conditions, will test the limits of the wheels. But hey, isn’t it the same with any other part of your car that you put to the test in rigorous motorsportsconditions? Remember, a chain is no stronger than its weakest link. So I urge you to go and ask the motorsports teams who use ROTA wheels what is usually the first part of their cars that fail. With the big fat budgets of motorsports teams, would you think they would be using ROTA wheels if it were their weakest link? Which leads me to my next fact… Fact 3: ROTA is a trusted brand in various forms of motorsports, all over the globe. In the world of Drifting, the Driftworks team is known to be probably the most successful drift team in Europe. Pictured above is their world-famous 720hp 2JZGTE-powered Driftworks Nissan S15 which runs on 18x12in Rota GTR-Ds. Phil Morrison, owner of Driftworks, was asked by Speedhunters as to why he runs ROTA Wheels, even on his daily driver E46 BMW M3. Here’s what he had to say: “Simple reason is because they are light, strong, and most importantly I didn’t have to go through a load of idiots telling me that I wouldn’t be able to, and shouldn’t fit 10′s all round.” He goes on to say: “Would I ever buy a set of TE37 even if Rota had never made these wheels? The answer is a simple no. They are massively overpriced for what they are, and the designs nearly 20 years old, so wah! Those who are mocking the fact I say they are strong need to do some research. We have used Rota wheels on our road cars, track cars and drift cars for 5 years. I’ve personally owned about 20 sets, and we have sold over 1000 wheels. We have never had nor heard of a failure that wasn’t due to a crash… I actually use this car for a lot more than daily driving. It’s my track car as well when I don’t want to drift the S15 I take this car to a local track or to the Nurburgring. It get’s some serious abuse, and deals with it all day long. I never thought I’d say it about a BMW, but I think it’s an awesome car, and will only let it go when a 997GT3RS makes it’s way into my life.” Meanwhile, the 2011 British Drift Championship winner is another car running on ROTA Wheels – Matt Carter’s Falken S14.5, pictured on right. His teammate, Alan Green, pictured left, also runs on ROTAs. In Racing, check out the 2009 Redline Time Attack Street National AWD Champions – Turn In Concepts, running 17×9 Rota DPT wheels. Element Tuning Subaru STi on Rota DPT wheels reigning supreme on the 2011 US Time Trial Championships. The opponents? European muscle such as the V10 Lamborghini Gallardo Superlegerra and the Porsche 997 GT3, as well as American muscle in the form of race-tuned Dodge Vipers and Corvettes. In the world of Drag Racing, the World’s Fastest Evolution VIII is the AMS Performance Drag EVO wearing ROTA Slipstream Wheels. 1,220 All-Wheel Horsepower, 671 ft/lbs of Torque, Best 1/4 Mile of 8.42 @ 171 mph, and a Standing Mph of 228 mph. After reading this, are you still questioning how much horsepower ROTA Wheels can manage? How about an Exotic Car wearing ROTA Wheels? Check out this TVR Sagaris rolling on Rota Boost wheels. Want to see a reputable source showing cars all over the world running on ROTA Wheels? Check it out onSpeedhunters. Speaking of Motorsports, JWL and VIA Standards, and the fact that there’s no standard for “abuse”, there is one type of wheel labeling that I’m very curious about – “For Racing Purposes Only” or “Only For Competition Use” Wheels. While ROTA does not come out with wheels labeled as such, some other brands do. It’s quite disconcerting to read forums where people question the strength of these wheels, and their reluctance to use it on the street. I have some examples for you here, here, and here. Why are people so reluctant to use them on the street? Does it mean it’s weaker? Moreover, don’t you wonder what standard was used for these “competition wheels”, if there is actually no standard for testing anything outside “most road conditions”? What determines what is for competition and what is not? Read through those links and you’ll start to see arguments about differences between racetracks being generally smooth tarmac, and streets filled with potholes, where you expect to “install and forget” the wheels, and counter-arguments saying there’s more abuse during racing than on regular street use. Does it make you wonder which wheels are stronger? Is it those that meet JWL and VIA standards, or those that are labeled “For Competition Use Only”? If you think it’s the “For Competition Use Only” wheels, as you get to abuse it in motorsports events, then why is there apprehension to use it on the street? ROTA makes no such “For Competition Use Only” wheels. Whatever wheels you see being used by race teams during motorsports events are the very same wheels you can get from ROTA for use on your street car. And lastly, please don’t get me started on the “who copied who” argument. The fact that you’re so good at finding out what a ROTA is from something that is not, means you can tell the difference. Same as how you can tell the difference between the wheels below. OEM Wheels: 2011 Mercedes E-Class vs. Chevrolet Cruze vs. Mitsubishi Outlander vs. Mazda 3 OEM Wheels: Nissan GT-R vs. New Mitsubishi Outlander Racing Hart vs. OZ BBS LM vs. Work VS-XX Work Meister S1 vs. SSR Professor SP1 Work Euroline vs. SSR Vienna Nismo LMGT4 vs. Enkei EV5 SSR MK1 vs. Centerline People say that ROTA Wheels are “Replica Wheels”. I beg to disagree. Check any dictionary and you’ll see that “Replica” is defined as an exact or accurate reproduction of an object. Like replicas of Louis Vuitton bags and other fashion items. People who buy these items most likely want to pose as owners of the originals. But like I said, ROTA Wheels are not replica wheels. Their products do not say “Volk Racing” or anything like that. They are built as ROTA Wheels, and are sold as ROTA Wheels. If people put stickers of other brands on it, it is beyond the control of the factory. But since they are not replicas, this is the reason why a lot of people can actually tell the difference. There are only so many ways by which you can come up with spoked designs, and make it work. If one manufacturer takes inspiration from a design made by another, and creates their own rendition of it, is it still a replica? Though I will not agree that ROTA Wheels are replicas, what I will agree to are that ROTA Wheels have been “inspired” by other designs. Just as the wheels I’ve shown you on the photos above have been inspired by those done by others. Though they were inspired by other brands, ROTA Wheels have their own angles, as well as their own fitment, which is why people can tell them apart from the designs they were inspired from. Now does that still make it a replica? Or is it now an original? Anyway, that’s not the whole point of this article. The point I would like to put across is that people buy things for a purpose. You can’t buy a cast wheel and expect it to perform like a forged wheel. Then complain about cast wheels not being “up to par” with the abuse you put it through. Remember, JWL and VIA standards are set for MOST ROAD CONDITIONS. Not for abuse. There is no test standard for abuse. On the flipside, those who do buy cast wheels actually purchase them because you can’t expect a forged wheel to cost like a cast wheel. Fine, you can get them for a lower cost in the used market. But do they come readily available in your preferred specifications? And how can you tell if they have been put through a life of abuse or have been damaged before they come into your hands? I know you can have numerous rebuttals at me and can throw various types of arguments at me for posting this. There will be no end to this argument and I can easily say I just picked up a rock to bang on my head for no reason than to get flamed. But this is Custom Pinoy Rides – one of the best car blogs in this side of the world. And because of that, I have a social responsibility to speak up and make myself heard. I’m not trying to destroy anyone or any other brand, and I’m not trying to flame you if you don’t agree with what I am saying. I’m just stating facts. So if you’re thinking of flaming me with your nonsense which you can’t back up with facts, think twice or you might just make yourself look bad. Ayt? Otherwise, if you agree with me, then do share this article to those whom we can probably shed some light to. Because as Mike Garrett of Speedhunters says: “[Wheels] are probably the most important component in how a car looks, right? Some people say that wheels to a car are like shoes to a person, but in my opinion the importance of having decent wheels on a car is more important than the shoes someone is wearing…” Nuff said! I gotta go get some shut-eye. Let’s talk more later. If you have something better to say, then put it on the comments. Cheers!

Hi all, I am currently in the middle of Building/Converting an RB30DET S14 Facelift and require some opinions from people with experience. I am aiming at a 400-450Hp (300-350KW) build, I am mid-way through and need some help deciding between a few items, I am not to stressed on the money side of things but prefur not to be paying out the ass for unnecessary items that dont give much power output. This is the build I have in mind and wondering if there are any things that people would change or would rate. RB30 block from VL auto Commedore (Honed and Dipped) Rb25DE head TopMount Manifold with 44MM wastegate 750-850cc Injectors Ultra Spark Coil packs Garret Turbo, either GT35R, TA3410 or GT3076. ( has anyone dealt with chinese rip-ops of these turbos and know if they are anywhere worth it? have been told not to bother but never heard of anyone having one blow up on them ) Have a crank collar, New water pump, Oil restricters etc I have a mate building this with me who is definately more switched on when it comes to RB's so ignore if I sound a little new to this. This is where i need help on deciding things. - I have read RB20DET gear boxes can only handle upto 400hp safely so i'm assuming a 25DET one will be needed? - Also I need help deciding on what internals to replace with aftermarket parts, am I right in saying cams would be a better investment than pistons/Conrods? -Should I replace the valves and valvesprings in the head as I read they are 400HP capable and would rather be safe than sorry. also does this make a power increase? -Are N1 Oil pumps worth it? there are very mixed feelings on these I have found, I am not going to be doing limiter raping skids or anything just after a nice sounding car with decent speed There is a place near where I live (Christchurch, New Zealand) that I have heard great things from when it comes to dyno tuning and have heard they provide there own ECU's so thats where I will be going at the end of my build. I am open to all suggestions so please feel free to post your builds and power outputs.

EOI, no test pilots. All parts were bought new unless stated. 8,000kms max on all parts. Lots of time and $ in this car. NSW rego till March 2015, 40k, will trade/swap with cash on top. 1995 Nissan Skyline GTR, Smoothed engine bay, Original paint QM1 Currently has a half cage, 2 seater Built 2.6L RB26DETT, motor was built by Red R Racing Bottom end: RIPS 9ltr baffled sump Greddy Oil pump N1 Water pump CP pistons and rings 86.5 Eagle H beam rods with ARP rod bolts ACL rod and main bearings calico coated TRUST Greddy Strengthened Crank Cap All balanced and blue printed, block chemical clean, crack tested, decked, bored, and honed Head was fully rebuilt and serviced, port & polished, Tomei Bronze Valve guides Greddy Valve springs Tomei Solid Valve Lifters Titanium Valve Retainers TRUST Greddy Strengthened Cam Cap Trust Greddy Strengthened Head Bolts Greddy cams 256 duration inlet 9.1 lift, 264 duration exhaust 9.1 lift Greddy adjustable cam gears HKS Valve Stem Seals Tomei Gasket Combination Set with 1.2mm metal head gasket Tomei oil restrictor Other bits Tomei timing belt ATI balancer (500hp) Mines Cam baffles Intake/Hot side parts: RIPS 6 ITB custom intake plenum 6boost low mount twin manifolds ceramic coasted & Modified stainless twin turbo intake pipes to suit Genuine HKS GT-SS's with braided water lines, standard oil lines etc (bought used off Blitz with very low kms). Greddy extended split dump pipes ARC 85mm bar & plate intercooler Greddy 19row oil cooler and re-locator Fuel system: SARD 700cc Fuel Injectors RB26DETT Skyline SARD Standard FPR Greddy 10.5 fuel rail twin entry SARD 5ltr surge tank with twin internal Bosch 040 fuel pumps, in teflon lines Suspension: Ikeya Formula Camber Adjuster Upper Arm (new unopened) Ikeya Formula Rear Traction Adjuster Rod (new unopened) Ikeya Formula front lower control arms Cusco front upper arm Tien super street coilovers Exhaust Kakimoto Racing Hyper Full Mega N1 Exhaust Muffler Wheels Volk TE37 18 x 10.5 +12 (bought used) decent rubber Gearbox Os Giken 1-4 gearset, 5th standard, series 3 gearbox, Brakes Trust Greddy 6 pot front 365mm 2 piece rotors Trust Greddy 4 pot rear 330mm 2 peice rotors Brand new spare pads Braided lines Engine Management Haltech Platinum pro plug in +aux expansion wiring Haltech dual wide band controller Other bits & pieces Billion Racing Power Steering Tank ARC titanium air deflector Top secret catch can with AN10 braided lines, One piece tailshaft Im sure there is a lot I have missed. PM if interested, pic will be taken on the weekend. John

Hi All, As per subject line, I'm selling 2x Rays TE37 (17x10JJ+18) in Matte Black. This is no ghetto job, it was done by Wheel Solution in Richmond VIC to match Rays Eng custom Matte Black to a T! These are a discontinued size so are a rare find!!! Will also include genuine Rays center caps and genuine Rays blue anodized value stems and caps. Comes with Potenza Adrenalins RE001 235/45R17 with about 80% rubber. There are minimal stone chips on the paint of the lips of the rims, and about 2cm paint flake on the lip of one rim as it kissed a gutter whilst parking. Touch up paint to lip will be easy as it's Matte Black. No signs of gutter rashing on the rim though and no buckles. I'm after $1k with rubber. I can remove the rubber, but price will still be $1k. Genuine interest only. Here are some pics that were taken when they were new (http://classifieds.nissansilvia.com/index.php?t=2097451&view=advert). Note that the pics that show 4x rims, the two end rims are not for sale and they are original Rays Matte Black, so you can see that the match is spot on. Will post more recent pics in coming days. Willing to freight at buyers expense, or pick up in Burwood East VIC. Contact via sms on zero four two one 1 2 1 eight one eight. Cheers, Andy

Hi Everyone, attempt 2 at posting this thread. Tip: Don’t be trawling Wasteland threads and post something right before alt-tabbing back and trying to post a for sale thread that’s massive. TLDR: Buy the engine that did this, thanks. Rest of complete setup for sale if you or someone does. Can just bolt it into a R33 or R34 GTT and save moneys (like, everything). Obviously could put the engine anywhere you can put a RB25. Very negotiable if you want to buy the entire thing and bolt it or re-sell it or what have you. https://www.facebook.com/ChequeredTuning/posts/718855688158365 I recently ‘finished’ my R34 setup, finally, after about 6 years of crap. Then I drove it into an Embankment at low speed and bent the chassis and pretty much nothing else, so everything in this list is 100% working and very near new. However, it was enough to write off the chassis. I will only separate parts if the engine is sold. If the engine is not sold, I’ll get the lot put back into a different shell. In this way I’m letting rajab decide whether I go GTT or something else. Note: In car and running, can physically show you if in Victoria. Engine: BC 2.9L Stroker Kit http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0238 Tomei Type B Poncams Tomei Exhaust Cam Gear Nitto Custom Forged Pistons Ported/Polished Head (unsure on exact flow. clearly works though, and can see the exhaust side is slightly larger than stock manifold ports) Spitfire Coilpacks JUN Oil Pump New Gaskets, Bearings when rebuilt New Idler, Tensioner, Timing, Water Pump when rebuilt Cometic 1.8mm Metal Head Gasket ARP Head Studs Xspurt 1400cc Ethanol Injectors Turbosmart Kompact Plumb Back BOV EARLS Fuel Filter Totally legal in Vic. Totally legal anywhere else, too. Vicroads will give you no problems with this. Engine has done 15,000kms since built. As before, can see running. Has been 1 day since dyno runs. Yes, I bent the chassis the day after. This was sad. I have all the reciepts, emails back and forth, all the info you're likely to want, though really the proof is in the dyno sheet. Seems to love timing (running a lot, no pinging) Seems to love boost (running a lot, no pinging or weirdness) It's about as solid as any engine you'll ever get built by someone who doesn't call themselves "Nissan" It also won't take 6 months of stuffing around, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting and so on to be built, put together, put in the car, run in, etc. It's all done. Put it in and drive. If you buy the ECU and Turbo and everything else as its for sale, you won't even need a damn tune. Ever. lol I'd love $12k for it. I'm negotiable. That seems like a high number. If you like, google the parts listed above and ask your local engine builder for a quote on labour. Then add the cost of waiting for it to all arrive, be put together and so on. It's OK. I'll wait. But I'm pretty negotiable if need be. But not stupidly so. 3k will not get you this engine and I'll just buy a stock auto GTT sedan for about $3 and get it all put in there and get back to 330RWKW at 3500 RPM. Lets entertain the thought that someone buys the engine. If so, everything below this sentence is also for sale. it's also very new. Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 (this is a glorious ECU) Haltech Wideband CAN Controller (controls AFR on the fly, 200 times a second. Has stuff built in to stop it doing weird things and blowing your engine. You can also set it to max adjust like 1% if you're super worried). Not that you need it, because the tune in the ECU had this OFF when it got the AFR mentioned on the Chequred tuning link. Full E-Flex sensor. Put whatever you want in the tank, man. Garrett GTX3076R Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm - This is welded onto the turbine housing. This setup clearly works. If you hate it, you could always put on a kando housing for $200 and mount this wherever you want with whatever manifold you want. Walbro 460 LPH Fuel Pump - complete with super wiring! Scotty Custom dump+screamer made by the venerable scotty nm35 - 2x45 degree stainless bends instead of the usual 90. Goes to 5in cat. So much flow! Has seperate 2in screamer which could be plumed back into the cat if you ask nicely. I was going to do this, but maaaay have found myself making this thread instead. Shit. Suspension and Grip things Front and Rear Bilstein Shocks Eibach front and rear main springs. Eibach rear helper springs Coil over kit x4 so you can raise or lower the height and be fully sick if you so wish (I didn't) Custom Front Strut Tops - Allows more travel in the front. Just incase joe cop decides to push down on your bonnet. Or say, you go over a bump. Whiteline Caster Kit Whiteline Front Camber kit Whiteline Rear Camber Kits x 2 Bump Stop Kits X 2 R34 Series II Helical Diff and half shafts - Someone said these were rare. Works well! Rear Subframe alignment kit (pineapples - they work!) Whiteline 24mm Front Sway Bar (BNF24Z) Whiteline 24mm Rear Sway Bar (BNR11XXZ) Heavy Duty Swaybar Links for the above Brand new Nitto NT05 Tyres - 245/40/18 and 275/40/18 on F/R respectively. Ok, they've done maybe 100kms. Autech 8piston 356MM Front brake kit. People talk bla bla bla about suspension all the time, but I was able to go WoT in 1st gear (auto, remember, 1st gear is a bit longer) with dyno results posted above and not lose grip. I would say its worth spending the money and not getting BC's and would do it again. Or you could save half the cost and buy mine. If you buy my engine. Which is again, saving a lot. I also have a really, really, really built Auto transmission for aforementioned R34. I know you're reading, yawning, thinking "man, lolz, auto" but it has its own ECU, two transmission coolers, and is connected to the paddles on the R34 steering wheel. Touch the button, insta shift goodness. Touch the button when you're cruising around town, insta shift smoothness you can't feel. Do it at 7000RPM at WoT and you may or may not need spine surgery. But considering you fell asleep reading that sentence about automatic transmissions, whatever, buy the engine. Or not. May seem like a lot, cost a lot more to begin with. Be financially responsible by buying the fruits of my financial irresponsibility! PM me, PM me now!

ITEM: RB26 bottom end built to handle big HP using top name Jap parts (specs below) CONDITION: Excellent - parts are only 5,000kms old LOCATION: Sydney, NSW PRICE: $9,000 bottom end; $2,000 external pump kit or $10,000 for both CONTACT: PM - SERIOUS ENGUIRIES ONLY - NO TIMEWASTERS OTHER: Engine made 722rwhp recently on moderate boost with zero blow by. 5,000kms were on low boost for run in and street driving . Will handle 10,000+ rpm & 1,000hp with the right head. SPECS: HKS Step 3 22mm pin pistons Apexi V-MAX SPL rods Apexi V-MAX SPL billet 73.7mm fully counterweighted crank ARP main bolts new water pump Will also come with one spare piston and rings $9,000 Optional: External oil pump kit - ATI race damper Moroso external single stage wet sump Petersen pulleys/mandrel Mounting bracket and belt modified oil pump housing Sump with Trust extension and modified pick up to suit external braided lines and fittings to suit $2,000 Or $10,000 for both