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Showing results for tags 'HELP'.
Found 8 results
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hi guys, im putting in a defi boost gauge.. the boost pressure sender unit has a red, black and white wire on it... i have no idea where that lil white f@cker goes. Also the gauge turns on and calibrates through its stages but doesnt read the boost pressure, can someone plz help me its giving me the shits, pics or info would be sweet, thanks
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R33 Skyline Shudders Around Corners
P1@Y posted a topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Hey guys I have a R33 skyline sedan, that i recently purchused, now when i go around certain corners it tends it shudder/shake in the rear end, its really weird i also had a S13 silvia that done the same thing but didnt own it long enough to fix it. I was thinking old shocks as its stock suspension with King low springs. Any help/advice would be great Thanks. -
Right for starters I currently have my 2 door GTS25 R33 without a spoiler so the boot is sitting low. Im really not a huge fan of spoilers allthough I understand the benefits they can give. What I do want to do its essentially slope the sides of the boot lid so that they come up to reach the side of the rear quarters. The photo I have added is of a WRX Boot lid and is essentially what I want my boot lid to look like so the sides slant up. What I am looking for however is tips on how people think they would do this themselves? looking for some sound advice because as much as I have access to spare r33 bootlids I'd be happy to get it right first time. My original thought was stagger duck tape to get the right slant and height then bondo the shape and sand it in, So you may see why I need help. Cheers
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Hey guys So basically i have put a RB25DET NEO into a R32 GTST Everything mechanical is done. I have used the RB25det NEO Loom and ECU I basically need a guide/help on wiring the Rb25det Neo engine loom to the R32 gtst body loom and to basically get this thing started and running. Now i have searched everywhere for days found little bits and pieces like this : The internal wiring is the only hard part. You need to place the wires from the 34 loom into the factory 32 internal loom. This is easy if you know what every wire from the 32 and 34 ecu’s is and what thus each wire in each plug in the 32 and 34 kick panel is. It is easiest (in my opinion) to cut the internal loom plugs off the 34 loom and off the 32 loom where it went onto the main ecu loom, and attach the 32 plugs onto the 34 ecu loom. This way, if you crash your 32 or whatever and want to put the neo into a new 32 all your wiring is done basically. If you do it the other way, you will also need all the corresponding 34 internal plugs from the internal loom. I say do it the first way. It’s your choice. The only point to really note and emphasise here is this: The r32 is basic. The 34 had TCS and ABS. Each system in the 34 has it’s own computer ie for the 1. Engine 2. TCS 3. ABS Each computer works both independently, receiving the signals it needs to and consequently processing them, and together. They all talk to each other. If you remove the ABS computer (or in the 32’s case, it was never there to start with) the engine computer does not see a signal from the ABS computer, so it thinks the car has no brakes. And it won’t go. So you need to trick the ECU into thinking that the TCS and ABS computers are their, functioning properly, and sending a signal so the ecu thinks you have never locked up braking or lost traction whilst driving. The information on how to do this, along with spreadsheets of what every wire in the 32 and 34 kick panels is, the plug layouts, ecu pinouts etc is all available via application in writing Now it says what to do but not how TO DO IT ?!?! does anyone have a guide or write up for this? OR know how to do it Thanks kindly Ryan -
Hey guys! when i bought my r32 gtst with rb25de it never had a charcoal canister, the vent line was simply capped off and i also noticed when you unscrew the fuel cap it never whiffed out air like its meant to and i always had a pretty strong fuel fume smell while driving no matter what windows up/windows down didn't seem to matter.. after a while i thought i would plumb it back in, bought the canister hooked it up correctly and tested it out over the next few weeks, the smell seemed to have gone but then when the windows where down it was stronger then ever... about a year ago i replaced the fuel pump with a walbro and replaced the fuel lines from the tank to the hard lines and when i got the car i replaced from the hard lines to the filter and then to the rail.. but it still smelt so i did some more research and found that they have a common leak area with in the compliance fuel restrictor, i pulled that out and found that the sealant they had used had perished, i re-sealed it with sickaflex and it still smelt.. so now bassicly I'm after advice on what steps to take next.. a lot of people have said to replace the o ring above the fuel pump but I'm almost certain that is sealed correctly as you can't smell anything in the boot... the only thing i can think of it being is the filler neck itself or the vent lines from the tank... I'm pretty much at the stage that i want to drop the tank and replace everything... if anyone has any advice or ideas please let me know and thank you in advance!
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Hey guys my s1 r33 decided not to start anymore randomly, it has no spark so im guessing the ignitor shit it self.. I really need to get it started and get it tuned asap and get ready for sau nats. does anyone have one i can just test on the car if thats the problem ill go buy a new one or ur spare one pleaseeeee.. im in melbourne easter suburbs.. pls contact me on 0450232121 cheeeeers big earsss
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RB25DE (Non turbo) - After not starting for a day seems to always start/crank over very slowly and lumpy, after about 3 minutes of trying to start it, it runs but very lumpy and misfires for 5-10 minutes then returns to normal once warmed up to firing on all cylinders... Once started and running it also spits out a bit of water/fuel Was told it was coil packs - Checked and changed, still does the same Was told Spark Plugs - Checked and changed, still does the same Was told Air Flow Meter sending wrong signal if dirty to the ECU - checked and no problem Was told Fuel lines, if fuel was going into cylinders - Checked lines putting normal amount into fuel rails Was told head gasket, checked radiator and empty'd the water out just to start it over a couple days without water (to eliminate the fact that it could be sucking in water from radiator, would start normal and fine if it was a head gasket problem with no water, still started lumpy and the same) - Also had plenty of water in radiator, almost full didn't lose any Was told that it could be faulty injectors, leaking or dripping over night then when started it not running properly due to an ''overflow'' or too much petrol in cylinders hence the lumpy/misfire until that petrol is burnt up.... thought id still post incase anyone knew for sure what it was Could it be a possible blocked injector problem? Keep in mind that the problem goes away once warmed up Anyone come across this and know for sure what the problem is??? been bugging me for so long! Videos of each problem listed below... Although i'm sure they are both related.. Crank over/Start problem - Running/Misfire problem - Sorry for long post! really can't figure this one out
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I'm looking for information on cam choices vs turbo size for a car that is aiming to make 350-400 kW to come on boost early in the rev range around 3000 rpm if not sooner ive looked at a fair few dyno graphs but not all have the RPM figures so im only guessing ive been looking at -5s vs a Precision 6262 or even -7s to try and get the response im chasing i would also like to know what parts i should be factoring in to try and achieve my goal the motor is going to be a 2.6 running 98 im also looking for advice regarding exhaust manifold and dump pipe sizing eg will going a smaller size improve spool time vs larger piping for more up top any help would be appreciated as i seem to mill over this in my head on a daily basis at the moment
