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Build Thread

Found 2 results

  1. Not sure if anyone has done this yet but decided I might as well write up a tutorial upon completion of mine Tools needed: 1x small phillips head screwdriver 1x small flat head screwdriver Linear polariser film (preferably with adhesive side, I got mine from http://www.3dlens.com/shop/lcdpolarizer.php) Acetone Scalpel/Razor Procedure: 1. Remove climate control from car. 2. Remove the temperature knob along with the nut behind it 3. Remove the 4 screws holding the front half of the unit to the back half 4. Using the flat head undo the 4 clips, and the front part should pop off 5. Undo the the 2 screws holding the back circuit boar, then push on the part where the plug goes to slide it out 6. Undo the 4 screws holding the front circuit board to the face 7. You should be able to pop the circuit board out now 8. Now comes the tricky part, using a scalpel slowly try and peel back the existing polarising film. Easiest to work from the corner and slowly sliding the scalpel along the glass 9. If there's adhesive residue left over on the screen, then use acetone to remove it 10. Time to apply the polarising film, if you place it the correct way it should look normal (white backlight with black writing), but if you turn it 90 degress, it'll reverse the colours 11. Once your happy with it, cut the film to size and apply to the LCD screen 12. Reassemble the climate control unit and reinstall into car, now you should have something that looks like this
  2. Hey Guys, So I've searched the forums for similar issues and haven't been able to find much information. I'm currently trying to fit a set of 18x11 +20 Concave Concepts to my Gts-t and have purchased and installed a set of Front Upper Camber Arms to try and pull them in a little as they poke on my Gts-t guards quite a bit as pictured. Although since doing so have run into a few problems. 1. After adjusting the camber it looks as though the wheel sits further back inside the arch towards the back of the car and is now rubbing quite heavily against the guard/sideskirt mount when turning. (I'm thinking caster arms will fix this as I assume the caster is all out of whack) 2. After adjusting the camber the inside of the wheel looks like its sitting over the coilover (above the lock collar for the base and below the lock collar for the spring) and over hard bumps the coilover compresses and hits against the inside of the rim. 3. At full lock, or close to, the inside of the rim rubs up against the upper wishbone and makes a horrid grinding noise (I have since notched out the wishbone but apparently not enough because it still does it) I tried fitting a set of 7mm slip on spacers to fix the issue but they pull the wheels out a little too far and create all kinda of rubbing issues on the guards. Has anybody had any similar issues, or have any constructive suggestions/can help at all? Thanks.
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