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As topic states i want to buy some Splitfire coilpacks to suit RB25 neo. (DIS-008). They need to be in good condition and max 4 years old. I also have some r33 S2 splitfires to sell (DIS-005) or swap for the r34 ones. (4 years and 30k old) Im located Eastern suburbs Melbourne PM me. Cheers

So I’ve got a new turbo on the way from Hypergear and wanted check whether I’ve got my supporting mods covered. The handling and brake upgrades etc have been done. The car: '99 C34s2 RS4-S Stagea Current Mods: Greddy Front Mount Intercooler 3" Full stainless steel Fujitsubo exhaust and stainless steel front pipe with 3" Venom 200cpi hi-flow cat Nistune ECU Turbosmart Boost Tee Nismo High-Flow Volume Fuel Pump HKS Panel Filter The turbo: Hypergear ATR43SS2 inc billet comp wheel, oil line and 14psi actuator with Nissan 6bolt OEM assembly. Mods to be installed with turbo: Nismo 480cc Injectors Z32 AFM Scotty metal intake pipe Is there anything else I should be considering? Subscribing to the “do it once, do it right” philosophy here, so would much rather spend a bit more on quality parts now rather than have troubles and/or dissatisfaction down the track. Would it be worth ditching the Turbosmart Boost Tee in favour of a Greddy Profec B Spec II? Is upgrading to a Splitfire coilpack going to make a difference? Cheers guys.

Looking for these items in excellent condition. Willing to buy new if the price is good.

1999 Series 2 Stagea Metallic Black Manual 252kw @ the wheels @ 16psi Located : Cheltenham, SA Neil – 0433 852 094 Neo motor - 109xxxkm (100,000km Serive done) Garrett GT3076R turbo Garrett braided line kit Turbosmart T boost controller Nissan Z32 AFM Nistune ECU Walbro fuel pump 550cc injectors Adjustable Exhaust Cam Gear + Clear Cam Cover Turbo Back 3 “ Exhaust with 3” Varex Muffler (Quieter than stock to stomper loud in a button) HKS pod filter Greddy catch can 52mm alloy radiator with twin thermo fans on relay Delta fin FMIC kit with t-bolt clamps throughout Oil cooler/relocator kit with braided lines ISC N1 coilovers on 12/10 springs (Firm but not stupid hard) GTR sway bars (Custom Adapters) MASA Front Bar + Dolphin Grill and Skirts (Was told it was a Dolphin kit when I bought it) Factory Momo steering wheel Air/Fuel + Boost Gauge 17"x8” +32 BBS RS-G Wheels with 1000km old Achilies ATR Sports 235/45/R17 All round. R34 brake conversion at all corners Adjustable suspension and camber arms GTR manual 5 speed conversion with Nismo HD clutch kit Tow bar rated to 1200kg professionally fitted Polishing to engine bay (Lifter Covers, Crossover pipe, Heat shield) New Fusion Power Plant Stereo RRS 250 Custom Plates Included I may include a proper 260RS Manual Center Console (Go for $1k on Yahoo Auctions) for the right buyer. Con’s : Gearbox thrust bearings are noisey on acceleration, and an aircon has rubbed through causing it to leak. $14000 As Is $15000 with Rebuilt Gearbox and Aircon fixed.

RB25DET Neo head with crank angle sensor located in Sydney, $500. Whether you are planning on building an RB30 slapper or using a RIPS bottom end or building your own this is the best head to use. You get solid lifters and smaller combustion chamber volume which brings up the static compression nicely if using standard RB30 pistons.

Hi guys. Ive recently bought an auto 1998 stagea with a Neo rb25de and i have noticed that i have been getting around 280km to a tank, this seems pretty low even with around town driving? I have run a diagnosis and it came back with code 55 which as i understand it means that it is all clear. It doesnt run rough on start up or when warmed up but it does blow white smoke during high revs. Possily a faulty o2 sensor?? Im new to the nissan game so just looking for ideas or advice. Thanks

For sale is my girlfriend's Metallic Silver 2000 R34 GT Sedan with a legitimate 97,000km on the clock.Great P Plater or first car as it is non turbo. Reluctantly she must sell her pride and joy due to finiancial obligations. Specs: Pioneer DVD Headunit w/ Bluetooth Connectivity & Navigation. Fully tinted windows. Remote start. Reversing camera. BC BR Racing 32 point Adjustable Coilovers. Only engine modification is a K&N pod filter which is neatly enclosed in a heat resistant perspex box. ARK Design rims: gun-metal grey with a matte finish. Rim sizes are 18"diameter, 9.5" wide on the rear and 8.5"wide on the front. Tyres on the rear are 255/35/18 Nankangs with approx. 80% tread. The front tyres are 215/35/18 Bridgestone Potenza. Car has always been fully serviced every 10,000km - (oil: Motul 8100 & oil filter, spark plugs, etc.) Car is in immaculate condition, both inside and out. It has been very well looked after and is a perfect example of a clean, untainted Skyline. It has had only one female owner in Australia since its importation. Registration until May 2014. Price $11,000 w/o RWC or $11,500 w/ RWC. Strictly no swaps. Please no low ballers, time wasters or test pilots. Can also supply the stock wheels with new tread for an additional $400. Will provide General Issue Plates from Vicroads upon purchase of the car. Please PM me or phone/sms me (Brent) on 0458 762 075 if you have any questions or queries. More images of car to be uploaded later today.

1999 NISSAN STAGEA RS4 NEO For Sale Immaculate Vehicle, Well Maintained and Drives Well, Any Inspection Welcome. Manufactured December 1999, 120,000 KM's, AWD, Factory Tint Privacy Glass, Electric Windows & Mirrors, 4 Wheel Steer, Tiptronic 4 Speed Auto, Climate Control, Limited Edition Yokohama Alloys, Stainless Exhaust, New Up-rated KYB Shocks Front & Rear, Service History, All Receipts Available Since Import, Recently Serviced, Oil Change Every 5000 KM with Royal Purple Oil, Recent Splitfire Coils, CAM Belt Done, Owned for Last Six Years, Extremely Reliable, Four New Tyres, 5 Months NSW Rego, Company Vehicle Forces Regrettable Sale. This vehicle has been well maintained and drives great, best car I've ever owned! $8750 ONO Will Deliver The Vehicle To Buyer, Depending On Distance Call Jim on 0427 908 743 for more info.....

Hey guys.. I recently ordered the wrong size reimax billet gears for my rb25det neo oil pump.. neo has 77mm gears but I accidentally got the 81mm reimax gears.. So, to get around this I have purchased an rd28/gtr oil pump for a good price which my new 81mm gears fit perfectly into.. Wondering if anybody has any experience or info about using this pump as far as oil pressure goes..?? Cheers

Hi, I have a bunch of parts i wont use, all going cheap to fund a tune and rego. Will send stuff anywhere First up: - R34 GTT Neo OP6 turbo- excellent cond. no shaft play. Comes with: elbow dump water feed water return oil return dump gasket Plus: no broken studs zero shaft play nylon compressor wheel for fast spool $250 Also have: - Stock rb30 clutch and flywheel $40 - Twin EL thermos slightly trimmed up top $40 - RB30 afm and air box $40 - R33 GTR intercooler- slight damage to external core. no leaks $40 - electronic autogauge gauge set in cups- oil press, oil temp, boost. no loom! contact autogauge for a loom or get it on ebay $40 for the three. only pictured one located fairfield, western sydney

Hi guys, Bought this AFC NEO used off a member from here sometime ago. I never got around to installing it and ended up going down a different path. Price: $250 + Plus postage. Location: Perth WA Can send pictures, just pm me a mobile number. Cheers Scott

Hey guys been having a bit of a headache with error codes 17 (ABS/TCS) and more recently error 46 Throttle motor sensor. The throttle motor sensor issue I feel was my own doing I had the bright idea of taking it off without thinking about leaving marks as to how it was sitting there. I am using a multimeter to measure the sensor output which when tested I get 5.14v that drops steadily the further the sensor is turned. I am guessing that with this sensor the setting just needs to be below 4.8v (this is when the workshop manual states a CEL code will be thrown) for the initial setting kind of opposite to the TPS which needs to be set at 0.45v and jumps up to around 4.2v with throttle in. Does anyone know specific volatges should aim for or is it not so important for this part?

Hi all, How are people locking off their ignition advance to set base timing? I've got an inductive pickup timing light with the pickup clipped around the white wire loop at the start of the coil harness (it's at the back near the firewall), but the ECU is constantly varying the timing and it's very difficult to read. How have other people locked it at 15 degrees? I have tried Conzult's "idle setting" but that doesn't tell me what the timing is set to, and it doesn't seem to be constant. It just seems to adjust the idle speed. Cheers DaveB

Hey Everyone I have just put a standard RB25DET NEO into a R32 Gtst. Engine was out of an Auto r34 GTT rb25det neo) Ecu and loom is from a manual Stagea (rb25det neo) It ran perfect after i connected everything, took it for a spin and went great through all of the gears ! running 10psi now on my way back from testing i went to give it to it a bit and all it did was bog/misfire under load, so i thought maybe coilpacks/ spark plugs/ afm etc, Okay so i changed all that, bought new platinum spark plugs new conditioned afm, and another set of coilpacks, went for another drive, and again went good, THEN on the way back same thing its like as if the ecu reads something wrong and it goes into limp/safety mode??? also like to mention runs really rich too. OKAY now i have worked out when i disconnect the afm and put it back in its like as if it resets everything and when i go for a drive i get about 10 seconds of running good then it goes back to bogging/ misfiring under load. Is there something im missing that needs to be connected to the ecu ? what is causing this to happen? Also I dont have a diagnosis plug haha and wanted to also ask if i buy a power FC with hand held and connect that to a computer will that tell me what is wrong, and a friend of mine told me a power fc ecu does not have limp/safety mode so will run normal with one, is this true? Thanks kindly !!

Hi Everyone, attempt 2 at posting this thread. Tip: Don’t be trawling Wasteland threads and post something right before alt-tabbing back and trying to post a for sale thread that’s massive. TLDR: Buy the engine that did this, thanks. Rest of complete setup for sale if you or someone does. Can just bolt it into a R33 or R34 GTT and save moneys (like, everything). Obviously could put the engine anywhere you can put a RB25. Very negotiable if you want to buy the entire thing and bolt it or re-sell it or what have you. https://www.facebook.com/ChequeredTuning/posts/718855688158365 I recently ‘finished’ my R34 setup, finally, after about 6 years of crap. Then I drove it into an Embankment at low speed and bent the chassis and pretty much nothing else, so everything in this list is 100% working and very near new. However, it was enough to write off the chassis. I will only separate parts if the engine is sold. If the engine is not sold, I’ll get the lot put back into a different shell. In this way I’m letting rajab decide whether I go GTT or something else. Note: In car and running, can physically show you if in Victoria. Engine: BC 2.9L Stroker Kit http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0238 Tomei Type B Poncams Tomei Exhaust Cam Gear Nitto Custom Forged Pistons Ported/Polished Head (unsure on exact flow. clearly works though, and can see the exhaust side is slightly larger than stock manifold ports) Spitfire Coilpacks JUN Oil Pump New Gaskets, Bearings when rebuilt New Idler, Tensioner, Timing, Water Pump when rebuilt Cometic 1.8mm Metal Head Gasket ARP Head Studs Xspurt 1400cc Ethanol Injectors Turbosmart Kompact Plumb Back BOV EARLS Fuel Filter Totally legal in Vic. Totally legal anywhere else, too. Vicroads will give you no problems with this. Engine has done 15,000kms since built. As before, can see running. Has been 1 day since dyno runs. Yes, I bent the chassis the day after. This was sad. I have all the reciepts, emails back and forth, all the info you're likely to want, though really the proof is in the dyno sheet. Seems to love timing (running a lot, no pinging) Seems to love boost (running a lot, no pinging or weirdness) It's about as solid as any engine you'll ever get built by someone who doesn't call themselves "Nissan" It also won't take 6 months of stuffing around, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting and so on to be built, put together, put in the car, run in, etc. It's all done. Put it in and drive. If you buy the ECU and Turbo and everything else as its for sale, you won't even need a damn tune. Ever. lol I'd love $12k for it. I'm negotiable. That seems like a high number. If you like, google the parts listed above and ask your local engine builder for a quote on labour. Then add the cost of waiting for it to all arrive, be put together and so on. It's OK. I'll wait. But I'm pretty negotiable if need be. But not stupidly so. 3k will not get you this engine and I'll just buy a stock auto GTT sedan for about $3 and get it all put in there and get back to 330RWKW at 3500 RPM. Lets entertain the thought that someone buys the engine. If so, everything below this sentence is also for sale. it's also very new. Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 (this is a glorious ECU) Haltech Wideband CAN Controller (controls AFR on the fly, 200 times a second. Has stuff built in to stop it doing weird things and blowing your engine. You can also set it to max adjust like 1% if you're super worried). Not that you need it, because the tune in the ECU had this OFF when it got the AFR mentioned on the Chequred tuning link. Full E-Flex sensor. Put whatever you want in the tank, man. Garrett GTX3076R Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm - This is welded onto the turbine housing. This setup clearly works. If you hate it, you could always put on a kando housing for $200 and mount this wherever you want with whatever manifold you want. Walbro 460 LPH Fuel Pump - complete with super wiring! Scotty Custom dump+screamer made by the venerable scotty nm35 - 2x45 degree stainless bends instead of the usual 90. Goes to 5in cat. So much flow! Has seperate 2in screamer which could be plumed back into the cat if you ask nicely. I was going to do this, but maaaay have found myself making this thread instead. Shit. Suspension and Grip things Front and Rear Bilstein Shocks Eibach front and rear main springs. Eibach rear helper springs Coil over kit x4 so you can raise or lower the height and be fully sick if you so wish (I didn't) Custom Front Strut Tops - Allows more travel in the front. Just incase joe cop decides to push down on your bonnet. Or say, you go over a bump. Whiteline Caster Kit Whiteline Front Camber kit Whiteline Rear Camber Kits x 2 Bump Stop Kits X 2 R34 Series II Helical Diff and half shafts - Someone said these were rare. Works well! Rear Subframe alignment kit (pineapples - they work!) Whiteline 24mm Front Sway Bar (BNF24Z) Whiteline 24mm Rear Sway Bar (BNR11XXZ) Heavy Duty Swaybar Links for the above Brand new Nitto NT05 Tyres - 245/40/18 and 275/40/18 on F/R respectively. Ok, they've done maybe 100kms. Autech 8piston 356MM Front brake kit. People talk bla bla bla about suspension all the time, but I was able to go WoT in 1st gear (auto, remember, 1st gear is a bit longer) with dyno results posted above and not lose grip. I would say its worth spending the money and not getting BC's and would do it again. Or you could save half the cost and buy mine. If you buy my engine. Which is again, saving a lot. I also have a really, really, really built Auto transmission for aforementioned R34. I know you're reading, yawning, thinking "man, lolz, auto" but it has its own ECU, two transmission coolers, and is connected to the paddles on the R34 steering wheel. Touch the button, insta shift goodness. Touch the button when you're cruising around town, insta shift smoothness you can't feel. Do it at 7000RPM at WoT and you may or may not need spine surgery. But considering you fell asleep reading that sentence about automatic transmissions, whatever, buy the engine. Or not. May seem like a lot, cost a lot more to begin with. Be financially responsible by buying the fruits of my financial irresponsibility! PM me, PM me now!

Just recently bought a Stage 2 R34 Stagea, on straight LPG, with RB25 Neo Det. 4 weeks in and there's oil leaking into cooling system, head cracked in multiple places and will cost more than a whole new engine to weld up.. Need a new head and apparently some valves as well. If someone knows about this more than I do (which is bugger all) then I need help. Can I put a straight Det head on this? Does it have to be a Neo? I'm not too stressed if it has less power, just want to get this car going again. Cheers, Jason

Hey all, have a HEAP of leftovers from a half-cut Location in Eight Mile Plains Will be letting go at 'need it gone' prices Auto gearbox - $100 (Comes with torque converter and flywheel) Auto cluster - $50 (No idea how many k's, haven't powered it up) R34 GT-T Auto ECU - $100 Driver and passenger airbag - $50ea Stock radio and pocket with climate control module - $50 Dash mounted gauges - $50 (Stock volt, oil temp and boost) Dash - $50 R34 GT-T front calipers - $150 (Suit 310mm rotors, uses 14mm bolts to knuckle) R34 GT-T steering rack with rack ends - $100 R34 GT-T stock SMIC with duct - $50 R34 GT-T engine cross-member - $50 R34 GT-T auto radiator - $50 R34 GT-T LCA's - $50pair Standard airbox with AFM and duct - $100 Starter motor - $50 A/C compressor and bracket with condenser - Free Steering column with stalks - $50 Coolant overflow bottle - $20 Windscreen washer bottle with both motors - $20 Pictures upon request I'm bound to forget something so just ask Most likely keeping engine loom