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Hello Skyliners For sale are my BBS Challenger 19 inch rims coming off an R32 Skyline GTR Vspec (Brembo brakes) Selling due to moving to smaller and lighter wheels for track and the rims being staggered which isn't good for ATTESSA..my loss is your gain!!! Rims are BBS Challenger Stud pattern is 5x 114.3 Front : 19x 8.5 CH004 (BBS reference), Tyres are Zeetex 245/35/ZR19 Rear: 19 x 9.5 CH005 (BBS reference), Tyres are Zeetex 275/35/ZR19 I don't know the offset as the rims came with the car when I bought it but they sit very nicely and fill the guards as per the photos...there's no scrubbing at all and my guards aren't rolled. I do have some camber though : ) No major gutter rash but have very very slight scratch on one rim which can't be seen unless you look very very hard previous owners fault. Price $2900 but slightly negotiable Give me a call- Dennis 0400370477 or sms as i'm at work most of the time or email at [email protected] Would prefer pick up in Victoria (South East suburbs please) or if you can organise postage i'm happy to drop them off or have a courier pick them up. Thanks For Looking D.

G'day All, I am selling all the spare parts I have accumulated over a few builds/mods. I have to clear the garage as I am selling my baby.... see here http://www.skylinesa...acked-the-sads/. All parts are either from an R33 N1 RB26DETT Crate Engine with verified 8000km on it (receipt), from an R32 RB26DETT or are other performance parts with only a few thousand kays on them. All prices are negotiable, however I will only consider reasonable offers. Happy for pickup, will post smaller items at buyers expense. Please see list of gear below with photos: - APEXi Power-FC D-JETRO with FC Commander hand controller. Purchased originally from Access Autoworks and would have less than 1000km on it. NO map sensors or map sensor wiring loom. Comes with free tune to suit my setup! Serial/Part No: PFC GTR33D 020-0499. $1100 - High Mount Twin Turbo Kit. Comes with custom manifolds, custom dumps, heat shields, custom front pipes, custom inlet hard pipes and silicone joiners, custom hotside intake pipes up to intercooler with silicone joiners, turbo's clocked to suit manifold positioning, custom wastegate acutators tuned/matched to 14psi with polished compressor housings. This setup (along with other mods) netted my wagon 347AWKW (dyno sheet to prove). $2000 pics on other camera, will post up soon - Sard 800cc twin spray injectors with full set of injector clips. To suit RB26DETT, fit in std fuel rail. $550 - Assorted silicone heater/coolant hoses (new, never fitted) and vaccuum hard pipes. $80 for the lot or offers for single items (only what is pictured). - Water pump pulleys, N1 under drive and standard. $30 for both or $20 each - Space Saver spare wheel, T125/90D16. $30 - Stagea tailgate protector. $20 The following parts are from an R33 N1 RB26DETT crate engine with verified 8000km. Will fit R32/33/34 GTR or Stagea 260RS and others. - N1 turbo's with garrett BB CHRA's - GT2860-7 equivalents. $1200 - Turbo oil/coolant hard pipes, complete set with banjo bolts and copper washers. $150 - N1 Front diff/Sump. 4.11 ratio $500 - OEM exh manifolds, untouched ready for porting. $50 each - R33 N1 dumps, with heat shields. $100 each - Exh Manifold Heat Shields $20 each - RB26 inlet plenum (intake air temp sensor not included) $100 - TPS. $50 - Throttle bodies $300 - Sandwich plate with balance tube (idle air valve and chamber and coolant temp sensor not included) $100 - OR $450 for Inlet plenum, TPS, inlet sandwich plate and throttle bodies as a package. - Cam covers with balance tube and breather tubes. $200 for the set - Valley cover $100 - Knock sensors $100 for the pair - Knock sensor, oil press/temp and anciliaries loom. $30 - CAS with mounting bracket. $200 - Oil filter block/cooler $20 - Oil temp sensor $10 - Thermostat housing/Coolant snout (block side) $30 - OEM Thermostat $20 - Front and Rear Turbo snouts $100 for the lot or $50 each - Alternator with tensioner bracket $80 - Starter motor. $80 - A/C Compressor with mounting bracket and tensioner/idler pulley. $80 - R32/R33 S1 Coilpacks, full set, with mounting frame $250 - Coilpack loom. $50 More in next post....

Hey Guys I need r32 4 door locks and a key to suit before matsuri next weekend Located in western suburbs of melb but will travel thanks

Need to sell my C33 Laurel asap as im needing the funds for my new car. This is my very first car. Bought as a stocker RB20E. 1989 C33 laurel - RB25DET S2 out of a 96 R33. (ks now unknown but was put in under 100,XXX) - 5Spd manual RB25 Box - ISC coilovers all round - Upgraded R33 front brakes - One piece tail shaft - FMIC - 3" exhaust from dump pipe back - GKtech Dumpipe - Front strut brace - Modplated for engine and transmission conversion. - Blitz S-spec EBC -Turbo timer (not fitted) Bad points: - Car has a dent in the bottom of the LHF door, got hit by a neighbour. - Small rust spot starting to form on the LH C-pillar. - Starter motor is starting to become sticky. - Needs some front tyres, rears are brand new. The car had a boost problem for ages where I couldnt boost past 2-3 psi without hesitation. Found out it was due to a ruptured fuel line from the pump to the pump cradle. Drove fine off boost so it was driven of boost for most of the time until i could figure out the problem. Runs so much better and can now see 10 psi which is what it is set too. Car hasn't been drifted or done burnouts, NO LSD. The 25 is healthy as still no leaks or knocks Contact: Iain - 0422022887 Some vids of the car Idling Quick drive

Hi All I saw some people asking for HICAS Removal Tutorial on the R32 whilst looking at the one for the R33. Here it is and hope it helps. I also hope I'm posting it in the right section as this one is on handling. Please move it to the correct ones if the Mods think fit. Removing the HICAS on an R32 is actually quite an easy job (as long as you have the right tools). I used a guide taken from the NissanSilvia.comforum. I chose this method because it means there is no capping of the hydraulic lines and no need to take the power steering pump apart - you simply need to get hold of a length of rubber hose and some jubilee clips. If you have an aftermarket exhaust (and maybe a standard one) you'll need to take off the piece that passes over the hicas bar at the back, otherwise it's impossible to get any movement with the 32mm spanner you need to use to undo the bar. It is recommended to WD40 the exhaust bolts some time before you start to save shearing any bolts! I haven't had the rear wheels aligned yet, but spent quite a while doing it by eye. Getting the wheels aligned properly is on my to do list... Needed: HICAS lock bar 50cm of 10mm (or 3/8" is a bit more common) ID hose. Transmission cooler hose works nicely 2x hose clamps 1L powersteering fluid Tools: 2x big shifters for tie rods or 32mm open ender 17, 21mm open ended spanner 10,12mm ring spanners (ratchet spanners really helpful) 14, 19, 21 and 24mm sockets. Hacksaw PS. Power steering fluid leaks everywhere, keep this in mind and keep some buckets, trays etc to catch it all - it makes cleaning up A LOT easier. Fitting the lockbar Firstly, put the lock bar on. To do this, take the tie rod boots off both sides (cut the wire/cable ties) and get your shifters onto these. Crack them and then start undoing the one that came loose. Keep going until you can slip your 17mm open ended spanner into the gap between the tie rod and the hicas rack. You will see a little stub between them, this stub has flat surfaces, get the spanner onto this to hold it by tightening the loose tie rod back onto it. You can now undo the other tie rod. Inside the hicas rack is a hollow bar that the tie rods screw into, if you just turn one without holding the other, both turn. Now that both are cracked, undo the rack from the car via the 2 19mm bolts above and the 2 brackets for the hicas lines (10mm). Once these are off, you can pull the rack away from the subframe a little and it makes getting the tie rods out of the rack a bit easier. Now just unscrew the tie rods. Get your lock bar and screw the tie rods into this while it is off the car. when both rods are all the way in, mount it back onto the car with the 19mm bolts and then tighten the tie rods (dont have to hold anything this time). Then slide the tie rod boots back over and use cable ties/wire to secure them. The HICAS is now locked mechanically and YOU WILL NEED A WHEEL ALIGNMENT. Removing rear-wards lines Now we have to worry about the hydraulics. You will currently have a big heavy rack dangling down, if you follow the lines to the front of the car a little you will see a small solenoid. Undo the 2 lines from this (21mm) and then you can remove the rack from the car. Next unbolt the solenoid from the car, there is a 10mm and a 12mm bolt holding it on. Follow the piping all the way up to the front of the car, removing the 10mm bolts and the piping from the clips on the way. Once you get to where the chassis rail curves up, you will see 2 high pressure connections. Hold onto one end (21mm) and undo the other end (17mm) and then you can pull the lines and rear solenoid from the car. At this stage, most of the stuff is gone, there is only the big solenoid at the front resting underneath the intake plenum and the problem of what to do with the power steering lines that used to go to HICAS. Looping lines If you look just in front of the engine cross member, you will see a few power steering lines (steel pipes). one of these goes into a high pressure fitting and then into the hicas solenoid. get a hacksaw and cut through this steel pipe, connect your hose onto it, hose clamp it and feed it up through the car. Now put the car down/get out from under it and look in the engine bay and find the solenoid (behind the battery and under the intake plenum, on your inner guard). In front of the radiator you will see a loop of aluminium on the left. this is your power steering cooler. Follow the two lines back into the engine bay and you will see that one goes into the solenoid and one goes back under the car (and back to the resevoir). On the line that goes back the solenoid you will see a short ~15cm long moulded rubber hose held on with hose clamps. take this off and then put your other hose that you just put on from the bottom onto the aluminium pipe, not into the solenoid, then hose clamp it. Now the rear stage of your power steering pump, which used to feed into the hicas and pump into the cooler aswell, only pumps into the cooler and then returns as normal. As there is no restriction from a solenoid or rack, only low pressure fittings have to be used. If you have any trouble getting the hoses onto the steel/aluminium pipes, just put the hose in boiling water and then try, should work. Now you can rip the solenoid out and the remaining lines. there are 2 14mm banjo bolts on top of the solenoid, undo these so you can seperate the lines from the solenoid which makes removal easier. You may also want to undo the 21mm banjo bolt on the bottom to disconnect the inlet to the solenoid, but you can just wiggle it out with it still attached. The solenoid then has 12mm bolts holding it in, 1 at the top and 2 at the bottom on either side (pain in the arse to get to). When they're off, wriggle the thing out. The remaining lines are held on by 2 10mm bolts and a 12mm nut at the bottom. Undo these and then wriggle them out again. HICAS warning light Many people have said that locking HICAS causes your steering to get heavy, but they simply haven't done it properly. There has been NO change in steering feel with any of the cars that I have done. The only problem is the fact that the HICAS warning light comes on (because it's not there...). This can be solved by cutting the warning sender wire on the HICAS computer or removing the warning light's bulb from the dash. I prefer to cut the wire as it's quicker, easier and if you for some reason lose power steering fluid, it will tell you when your resevoir is low. The HICAS computer is underneath the parcel shelf, it is to the right of centre (when looking in from the boot). Unplug the smaller of the two plugs in the back of it and then cut the green with white trace line wire. You can also just leave the smaller of the two harnesses out and it does the same thing, no ill effects and no HICAS light. All done There you have it, you have just removed your HICAS setup. Look in awe at all the useless weight that you just removed from your car. Of course, you could've just looped the lines at the back, but you will only save a bit of weight, or you can block the lines off but once again you wont lose any weight and you can destroy the rear stage of your pump which means new pump. CAN happen, not will, a lot of people have gotten away with this. Now fill the resevoir up with fluid and start the car, powersteering pump will probly make funny noises as its pumping a bit of air as well. Just keep turning the steering wheel lock to lock until the noise stops and have someone watching the resevoir and making sure it stays topped up. Any air that is left in there will come out over the next couple of days as the system gravity bleeds itself (resevoir is the highest point). Here's the pics I took from my own install... The HICAS lock bar installed : Remove the bit that was here (solenoid of some sort?) : You can see where the 2 hydraulic pipes have been removed along the length of the car : Bottom pipe here is the one that needs to be cut, that shiny bolt is the sump bolt : Taken from underneath the car, you can see the new hose being routed up to where the solenoid in the engine bay was : From the top of the car, this is where the hicas solenoid was. oil filter changes will be easy now!: And this is where the new hose fitted at the bottom should be routed to: This is in front of the rad behind the front bumper. doesn't look like much but that loop of pipe is the power steering fluid cooler :

Hi everyone, looking for a R32 or R33 GTR chassis/shell can be bare shell, needs to be complied and registerable. Looking for straight chassis preferably with no damage, not fussed about bumpers or anything, does not need to be rolling, no interior or dash required. Basically need a donor car to put my interior and running gear into. Located in Vic, but will travel for the right one.

This is the story of my R32 GTS25. Time to try and keep track of everything that has been done to the car as it is getting way out of hand! It started off in the hands of Scott (previous owner) as a standard R32 GTS25 with an RB25DE from factory. He added a few mods, mainly suspension, 5 stud conversion, wheels, GTR Kit, half cage plus much more. Then I bought it, added new control arms and new wheels but stayed more or less the same car for a couple of years. After a few stacks id ruined the front bar, new wheels and control arms. Which meant buying them all again. Keeping any real progress on the car at a stand still. Came to a point with the car that I really wanted to start making more power although wasn't sure on an engine swap as the factory rb25 is so rare and a I didnt want to put it on the same playing field as any old GTST. Eventually decided to keep the RB25DE Head and add an RB30 Block. Essentially it would still appear to be the same motor under the hood. But it didnt take long for me to start dreaming about turbos and then the plan changed involving a low mount turbo set up keeping it relatively inconspicuous. Going from the naturally aspirated motor to a turbo motor involved a lot more than adding a turbo, it is surprising how different a GTST is to a GTS25. So if I was to go this far, why stop there? I decided I needed a donor car and that way I could swap over front and rear cross members as well in case of any damage to mine and I would have all the necessary parts to convert to turbo. Then the challenge was to find a clean R32 GTST without breaking the bank. Not long after, I quit my full time job and took what was to be at first, a short unpaid break. Luckily around the same time I found a GTST with low km's and was clean and straight, so I sold my bike and bought the second 32. The new 32 had recently had an RB30DET conversion although it had thrown a rod and wasn't running. It did have plenty of parts that I could steal though including a Garret GT35, HKS manifold, Cams and much more. So I pulled the whole thing apart. Gave this block to my engine builder and he worked out that the cylinders had been over bored which lead to fuel leaking into the crank case and onto bearings, and eventually killed the bearings and ruined a few rods in the process. So I bought a standard series II RB30 block and gave it to him to start from scratch. New over sized bore and hone Decked block Crank Grind and Crank Colla fitted Modified Crank Oil Ways ACL Race Bearings 40. Thou Oversized Forged Pistons While the new block was in the shop, I pulled the GTS25 apart. From here I proceeded to make things worse by removing the interior, loom, ecu, steering rack, front crossmember, rear crossmember and all suspension. Slowly the GTS25 started to go back together using the best parts from both cars and more. Tein Coilovers R33 Control Arms Adjustable Camber Arms Adjustable Upper Control Arms Adjustable Castor Arms Nismo 2 way LSD Plus a whole lot more Next the New block had to be prepped to go in. I went to Nissan and ordered genuine gaskets for everything. They are a rip off, probably because its not every day someone wants genuine RB30 gaskets but at least I have the peace of mind now. Mate at Mercedes cleaned up an N1 GTR Oil pump, rear main, water pump for me. Drilled and tapped tensioner studs in the block then it was all assembled. The fresh engine was attached to an RB25DET gearbox with a button clutch and short shift kit and ready to drop into the car. Before it went in though I cut holes for cooler piping and intake while I had the space. Engine and transmission in. Now waiting for Head Gasket and Head Studs to arrive so fitted up oil cooler, intercooler and power steering coolers. A ton of metal had to be grinded out of the reo to fit but it all bolted up nicely in the end. New Cometic Metal Head Gasket and ARP Head Studs arrived and the head could finally go on. RB25DE Head is ported and polished with new cams and cam gears. Cam gears on and set at zero. Both manifolds were port matched and now ready to bolt on. HKS low mount exhaust manifold needed some modification to bolt up as the taller RB30 block stood in the way. Cooler piping to go on, 50mm HKS wastegate, Greddy boost controller, vacuum lines. An RB26DETT Apexi Power FC was installed along with a Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller. Then the arduous task of installing the new loom which was much bigger than the standard loom! Port matched intake on, 800cc injectors in and start playing connect the hose. Few more goodies to go in, 25% under driven harmonic balancer, Alloy Radiator, Bosch 044 Fuel Pump and she will be ready to fire up. Pulled it out of the garage, bled the clutch, bled the brakes, did an extremely accurate wheel alignment by eye and she was ready to fire up for her first drive. Started first go and ran beautifully... Until the oil filter sandwich plate cracked and started pissing oil... So it was back in the garage for now. The sandwich plate wasn't as easy to find as I had hoped so I switched the fitting back to standard and screwed on the standard filter to get it going. First drive went well, broke in the new motor hard, low revs 100% throttle. Bringing it home I hit a bump hard and all of a sudden it stopped running. Towed it home and ended up here. Spent a whole day in the driveway testing everything, pulling out spark plugs, testing all sensors yet couldn't even get it to idle. So brought it in, gave it a good wash, parked it in the garage and drove to Melbourne the next morning not to return for 3 months.

GOT A COMPLETE BOOT TRIM SETUP IN GOOD CONDITION I'D SUGGEST PROBABLY CLEAN IT AND THROW HER IN AND WALLAH CAN FREIGHT AT BUYERS EXPENSE. $80

Hey guys I have for sale a pair of ARC R32 GTR castor/tension arms, they will suit R32 GTR or GTS4, I am located in Gold Coast, although willing to post if need be. Arms are in great condition used for only 10000kms on the street, comes with all nuts, bolts and washers. $140 ono PM or call/txt 0414596256

Looking for ideas on where to find suspension, wheels, brakes and other Gr.A parts for sale to suit the GTR. Despite the number of cars built parts seem hard to come by, Any help will be appreciated

Hi skyline aus, I'm after a few parts for my skyline r32 Black left door shell Black left hand side mirror Black r32 gtr spoiler Left hand side amber indicator Black left fenders (optional both ,gtr fenders) Black gtr side skirts Black gtr front bumper Black gtr bonnet I'm also selling the following: Black gts front bumper $150 Black gts bonnet, good condition $150 Black gts spoiler, good condition $100 PM me, and give me your price or I'll offer you mine. I'm located in Melbourne,

Hey fellas, Got a TRUST GReddy Front Mount cooler kit for sale. Suits R32 Skyline GTSt. This is a stealth return flow type cooler. Requires NO HOLES to be cut in your car. Fantastic, legal piece of kit when used with an airbox. Tube and fin cooler core measures 520mm x 250mm x 70mm. Piping fits directly to standard piping setup. Some fins are slightly bent as expected with any second hand cooler, BUT it still works VERY WELL. No excess oil anywhere. Good enough to support 296kw with a RB25, 18psi and Hiflow R34 turbo - true story. Proven. Located in Melbourne but happy to post. In box ready to go. $350 Cheers, Mat. 0400558030

For sale: r32 skyline HID kit (H3C) Price and price conditions: $40 delivered anywhere in aus Condition: used, but comes with a pair of brand new globes still in protective containers Pictures: Contact Details: PM, or SMS 0419 780 483 Location: Wantirna VIC Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: pickup or post

For Sale: - Genuine Bosch/Jecs Z32 AFM Used but comes in genuine packaging and box. Few small scuffs on it but in good condition and works fine. $250 - Allstar Performance Catch Can Large Catch Can vented to atmosphere, about 160mm tall without breather. $100 - 2x HKS SSQV copy sequential blow off valves. One is chrome the other is matt black. Can include mounting for standard R32 intercooler piping. $50 each - Front mount intercooler, front side painted black, rear side standard silver. Approx 480x300mm. $200 - Standard R32 Cross Over Pipe and black intercooler piping. Super Stealthy! Uses standard intercooler holes and was joined to a low mount GT35 turbo Only selling this stuff as my car is making bigger power now and am forced to upgrade. Will put pics up soon, can MMS pics now for now.

Hello everyone up for sale is my beloved nissan skyline bnr32 GTR it was made on the 12/1993 I bought this car with the intentions of keeping it forever as I saved my whole life just for this car but unfortunate circumstances have come up as I am in my last year of my apprenticeship and really need the money to get my own place and hopefully one day own another GTR as good as this. The car has been in the shed under the car cover and only comes out on special occasions and long trips It has a genuine 76,xxx km on it Serviced every 2000km with motul pro 300v 10w 40 Recently replaced diff oils with top grade castrol and gearbox oil with redline shock proof and it comes with a spare bottle Recently had all new hks metal intake gaskets put on,ngk r spark plugs cost me $150,spitfire coil packs,mines cam baffles and new cam cover seals,injectors flowed and cleaned came back perfect,new fuel filter,samco radiator hoses,coolant,motul brake fluid all done within the last 300km It has os giken cam gears that have been dyno tuned in Hks competition front pipes,catco race cat,5zigen cat back,hks twin high power bovs,timing belt and water pump done at 59xxx,clear nitto timing cover,apexi power fc hand controller,apexi turbo timer,apexi intake kit,carbo fibre full cooling cover and carbon pod cover Tuned by auburn performance in 2009 at 13psi for 250 awkw it was a very mild tune set for response and fuel efficency, Alpine $1000 head unit and alpine alpine type r speakers and Sony amp and sub and mono block amp, Genuine work xd9s 18x10 in bronze will come with 4x tires federal 595 rsr Ohlins rear suspension and nismo front,gkteck solid steering rack spacer,brand new genuine front inner and outer cv boot kits with grease nismo brake lines. Still has genuine undertray and front brake ducts. Non bubble dash and not even torn seats the seats are in perfect condition. Unknown side skirts,trust rear pods,n1 boot lip,n1 bonnet lip Compression test was done when spark plugs #1 162psi #2 161psi #3 158psi #4 161psi #5 160psi #6 158psi Car was imported in 2008 from 1 owner in Japan came with logbooks and service history still has original rotors which really reflects the Kms Car is in amazing condition hardly a mark on it always cleaned with meguires gold and washed with it. Always used premium 98 Vehicle is located in nsw in the far north coast Price is 22,500 neg Phone number 0407761 triple three

For Sale: 1989 R32 GTR Reason for sale: Need cash for investment KMs: 114xxx on the clock I've owned this car for about 4 years now, always been garaged and serviced every 5k with Royal Purple. I bought the car from a mechanic (worked for SAS) who imported it in 2004. No money owed on the car, REVS checks are welcome. The car came with some mods, and I've added a few. Tried to buy only the highest quality parts All work done by Unigroup Engineering Mods: HKS Intake kit HKS Cam gears Garret 2859 -9 turbos Tomei Expreme manifolds Tomei Expreme dump pipes Blitz front pipe High flow cat 3 Inch cat back Denso 650cc injectors Bosch 040 in tank fuel pump Exedy Heavy Duty clutch (clutch master and slave replaced with new OEM parts when this was done) 52mm Alloy radiator Greddy Air Diversion Panel (discontinued item) Whiteline sway bars front and rear Ohlins suspension Rear optional factory strut brace Apex Power FC + hand controller Profec Spec B II boost controller 4wd Controller Greddy Informeter Carbon weather shields Nismo gear knob Nismo seat covers LED tail lights Tinted windows Full alarm system (windows wind them selves up), immobiliser, and kill switch Sound system has also been upgraded with a pioneer head unit, front and rear speakers, and 10 inch sub GTR-26R number plates will come with the car Rolling on 17x9.5 Advan TC II wheels. These are very light weight with hollow spokes. Making 270kw on a safe tune done by Unigroup Engineering. Will provide dyno sheet on inspection The overall condition is very good for a car of this age. No dash bubbles, chassis rails are straight so it hasn't been fork lifted when coming over. AC works fine and pumps icy cold air. There are a few factory options on the car that I haven't seen on other R32s These are the emergency flare on the passenger kick panel and knee pads on the drivers side. I also have a few original spares that will come with the car: Manifolds Dump pipes Front pipes Injectors Turbos Turbos rebuilt with steel wheels Price: 23k neg May swap for a Golf GTI or Evo 8/9 with suitable cash adjustment Located: Wollongong Contact 0401472321 or PM to organise a viewing

Hi everyone, I'm thinking of selling my brand new HDI intercooler kit as I might be going a different route. Its a genuine HDI kit still in the box - completely untouched. The kit includes all polished piping, hoses, bolts, clamps, etc - everything you need to install. To suit R32 & R33 GTS-T and R34 GT-T. NOTE: This is the top of the range RS Spec cooler - not the entry level GT Spec! The RS Spec cooler is thicker at 95mm and is rated at 900hp Quality kit some generic info below: Description: Core size: 95mm x 580mm x 295mm Overall size: 95mm x 820mm x 305mm O.D: 76mm Aprox weight: 8.5kg Full race orientated design, aiming at the maximum horse power application, ultra low pressure drop under extreme pressure with maximun heat transfer efficiency, perfect for NOS, high boost, drag drift and endurance race where compromise is not an option. The RS spec intercooler is designed for handling 900+ horse power unlike other intercooler that only the thickness is increased. The highly efficient 19 rows will make sure the need of high flow capacity and high efficiency when you need it Price: $700 PM if interested

Hi I got a stock r32 gts non turbo, black, sitting on 105kms, looking to sell it. Will need some work on the exterior, Left door has a scratch Left Rear quarter guard has a dent Well other then that the car drives well, been sitting in my garage Rwc can be provide, no rego Pm me if your interested 0422172108 Melbourne

Factory manaul and turbo -Coilovers racing logic rear brand new. Tein front -Front mount - 25 turbo -walbro fuel pump -fuel reg -teks +12 9.5 all round - drift steering wheel -drift button - just got diff shimmed tight as got receipt brand - new excedy heavy duty clutch late last year and I've only done aroun 1000ks on it -double din Headunit -gauges above Headunit like the gtr water temp boost oil temp -front strut brace - blitz ecu -gktech caster arms - lock spacers -lock bar -type m skirts and type m pods - twin thermos -aftermarket dump -5 point cage rear seats are out now -Sparco bucket seat hole in the bottom - genuine bride seat rail -Car is Regoed - central locking - turbo timer -battery in boot Gold Coast need it gone because iv bought another car 0457755189

located in ACT - Apexi SAFC (Black) - $250 used - Greddy Profec B Spec 2 boost controller- $300 used - GCG GT30 0.82 rear housing (internal wastegate) - $400-$450 NEW - wastegate actuator 12PSI w/bracket - $100 NEW - 5 bolt dump pipe - mild steel - $150 NEW - Oil cooler/relocator kit (fits RB) - $180 used - R32 GTR wing - Dark metallic blue - $150 used - Kinugawa TO4E oil drain - $50 NEW - HKS SSQV (comes with circlip/2bolt mount to fit RB25DET standad BOV position $100 used - Stock RB25DET ECU - $120 used - Stock RB25DET Air Flow Meter - $120 used - 2x Federal 595SS 245/45ZR18 (lots of tread) - $100 used - Tein HA Coilovers to suit R32 GTST front pair (felt fine when in car 2 years ago) - $200 - Trust Airinx air filter - $100 All prices negotiable. give me an offer. PM or text 0431900505 will post pics eventually, can send pics if requested Would prefer local sale located in Woden, ACT Cheers Simon

Anyone have a driver side r32 lca for sale ? Just wondering if anyone had either a whole boot with a n1 lip or just the n1 lip for sale ? Also heard from someone that someone on SAU had r32 gtr fibreglass bars really cheap anyone have an idea or anything? Thanks heaps

Cleaning out my garage.. Got the following up for sale.... R32 GTR Gearbox - Push type (see photos) Came out of GTR done approx 90,000 kms. Includes shifter and all sensors etc. Box was perfect when it came out of car. $450 ono R32 GTR Head - including cams, covers, CAS, coilpacks, head bolts. Cams have been removed but are included with the head. As are all covers, CAS, coilpacks, bolts etc. It would need a good clean and some maintenance done as has been sitting in garage (covered up) for about a year. $750ono R32 GTR Intake Plenum and Throttle Bodies - Currently still attached to head but removable upon request. $200 R32 GTR stock turbos inc. manifolds - Currently still attached to head. Were working fine when taken off the car. I have not checked the shaft play. Can do this upon request. $250 R32 GTR stock airbox. Also have 1 air flow meter. Not sure if it works or not. Free to whoever takes the airbox. $150 Happy to combine items at discounted rate. Contact me with your request and i will give you a price. R32 GTR ECU $120 R32 GTR Plastic Fuel Tank - Includes pump and sener. Pump was working when taken out of the car, unsure of current condition. $120 180sx Diff and Driveshafts. Came out of a 40,000km, 1996, manual, turbo 180sx. $200 All items located in Melbourne Sth Eastern suburbs - Glen Iris area. Happy to post/courier t buyers expense. Discount given if puchasing multiple items. Let me know what you want and i'll give you an updated price. Contact Mike - either PM or Call/MSG 0412 678 973

Cracked armrest on driver's side door card way past vinyl welding - so in the market for replacement for my 1989 R32 four door. Not easy to find, so any help will be much appreciated. Text 0411 744 813 or PM.

ITEM: R32 bootlid with welded up spoiler holes LOCATION: Blacktown (Sydney), NSW CONDITION: good straight and rust free. Burgundy in colour PRICE: $70 CONTACT: PM

ITEM: Fibreglass front and rear bumpers - front has some cracks as per pics. Can't recall what 'brand' or style they are - just cleaning out some storage. Also have ONE side skirt from kit LOCATION: Blacktown, (Sydney) NSW PRICE: $250 for the lot. Too big to post CONTACT: PM can't upload pics for some reason....