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This is my first DIY so constructive criticism is always appreciated. After much searching online and failing, I thought I’ll write up how to change an RB25DET accessory belts. That is the Air-Con, Power-steering and Alternator belts. If this DIY already exists, all good here is another one. Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, I try and work things out using my own knowledge and other peoples DIY to please don’t blame me if anything goes wrong. Belts I used: Alternator: Gates Micro-VAT 4PK850 Air-Con: Gates Micro-VAT 4PH915 Power Steering: Gates Micro-VAT 3PK835 Meaning of the numbers: 4: Belt has 4 grooves, this cannot change in the replacement belt PK: Not sure, don’t think its important 850: Length of belt, you need roughly the same. All pulley systems have lots of room for adjustment for size of belt so you don’t have to have the exact same one. Have a look at what is currently installed and get something similar in size. LET THE DIY BEGIN! Firstly, you need to figure out which belt/s are worn. For me, when I had the steering at full lock with a cold engine, I would get belt squeal as well as when I turned the Air-Con. Therefore I decided to change those, as well as the alternator while I was at it. When you open the engine bay, you will see your belts such as the pics below. The the second step is to loosen the alternator pulley which is found on the left side of the engine bay, when facing the car. This will be done by loosening the bolt numbered 1 and then turning bolt number 2. You can then push the alternator towards the engine and loosen it. The next step is the removal of the fan. Using a 10mm spanner, undo the 4 bolts. It helps using WD-40 and then holding a pulley while applying force onto it. Once they are undone, remove the fan. Once the fan is removed, you need to remove the belt at the very front first. This is the power steering. I believe. To remove this, loosen bolt 3 and then turn bolt 4 to bring the nut away from the holding plate. You can then push the pulley system and loosen the belt. Once loose, the belt can be slid off. The next step is the air-con belt. To remove this, you need to get under the car and remove the underbody protector by removing the 6 screws. Once removed, you will see another bolt near the middle of the car which needs to be loosened. This will allow the tensioner to move and loosen that belt. With the bolt loose, push the tensioner. This might be really tight so use WD-40 and/or a hammer on the block circled, NOT THE PULLEY ITSELF, to move it up. Once this has moved enough, you can pull that belt off too. The last belt to be removed will be the alternator belt. Since you have already loosen it, you can just slide that off too. Once your belts are off, you can just need to reverse the process and put them back on. First alternator belt, don’t tighten this. Next the Air-con belt. Tighten aircon belt tension bolt enough so that belt twists to 90 degrees and nothing more, don’t re-install the under-body protector yet. Install power steering belt and again tighten it so you can just twist it to 90 degrees and tighten the other holding bolt. Next re-install the fan. Once the fan is tight, you can tighten the alternator belt to the same tension. Start up the car and listen for any noises. Any screeches means the belt it too loose. Power steering will screech at full lock so hold it at full lock for a few seconds. Air-con should screech as soon as you start it if it is loose. Alternator should screech at any point when the car is on. If any screeches are heard, tighten the corresponding belt using bolts 2, 4 or 5. Once all belts are tight, you can reinstall the underbody protection as we left it off in case we need to tighten the air-con belt. Go for a drive and test it out. If any screeching is heard, tighten the belt which causes. Avoid belt squeal eliminators as they are only temporary fixes which make more of a mess than solve the problem. Final Step: Enjoy your screech-less belts and pulleys !
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From the album: Silverback Stagea
Haven't been on here for ages, but got excited about putting a set of black Monoblok Lensos. 18x9, 30 offset, 225/45/18's on it and sits perfectly. Now, just got to find one Lenso centre cap (deep dish) for one side. -
Hey guys, Recently got some new coilpacks for my car so the oem units are no longer needed. Have about 150,xxx on them but they are in really good nick. Havent ever run over 8psi through them so i'm not really sure what they are like on higher boost levels. $120 for the 6 add 15 if you want them posted. 0431381883 Cheers, Ben
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First checkout the link below for proof I'm an ebay POWER SELLER and can be trusted to post items: http://feedback.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=iphone.addiction&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller USED Z32 AFM / MAF from 300ZX VG30DETT N62 AFM Size 3" (80MM) Very common upgrade for SR20DET / CA18DET / KA24DE / RB25DET / RB26DETT / RB20DET / VG30DETT and many others. Good upgrade to measuring more air flow when stock AFM / MAF gives up, these are good for up to 500hp. Used but in very good condition, includes the rubber O-ring on the inlet side + Tomei Plug with loom. I've personally bench tested this AFM's before offering it for sale & if you need installation instructions I may be able to help. $200 Pick up from Wyndham Vale VIC & sometimes Dover Heights NSW Postage with Tracking $18 or with Signature $22 Contact Brett [email protected] -
Hi Guys, I'm new to site, I've had a bit of a look around and can't seem to find the complete answers on most of the posts. I have a 1993 S1 R33 skyline running a pretty much stock rb25det Right, so my idea is that I'm after 250rwkw+, anything on or over that, I'll be pretty happy with. As I said the engine is pretty much stock. Only mods it has are: Splitfire coil packs Heavy duty clutch 3" exhaust I have on the way a front mount intercooler and a triple core aluminium radiator and I also have a Power FC My plan was to help me get to 250rwkw+, I would run a setup similar to this: Power FC Front Mount 600x300x76 Aftermarket radiator Split fire coils HD clutch 3" exhaust Deatschwerks 555cc injectors Bosch 040 fuel pump Standard Motor Standard Cams Standard intake and exhaust manifold and of course a bigger turbo I'm trying to be on the tightest budget possible at the moment without doing anything completely dodgy and cutting too many drastic corners. To any who have or are planning to go down a similar path, what do you think this set up will be like and what other things can I do to make it a more successful setup? Also with the turbo, I'm after opinions from people on their experiences with different turbo's. I'm after something that isn't going to lag heaps but will spool up around 3-3.5 and pull right through to 7. Something with some good torque that will throw you back in your seat but will keep pulling hard until limiter. Pretty much I'm after the right turbo to complete to combination and get the best results. After the best bang for my buck. The right combination is obviously going to give me the best result so any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for so many questions in one post just after the right info. Thanks everyone in advance, Ryan -
Up for sale is my 1997 R33 Series 2 Skyline GTS-T, RB25DET, Auto, Alarm, Immobiliser, Alloy Wheels, Turbo Timer, MP3 CD Player. Genuine 136000KMS. All Stock other than the wheels, alarm & turbo timer. Has 7 months Rego. Privately imported by myself, so I am the first owner of the car in Australia. Has been looked after and mostly driven on the weekends as I have another daily car. Regretful sale, only selling as I need a smaller car for the mrs', so willing to swap/trade for a Civic / Corolla. Have had the car for 5 Years and never had any issues with it, serviced regularly and driven normally not trashed. Car has a dent on the side as pictured, but can easily and cheaply be fixed. $5500 or near offer, priced for a quick sale. No time wasters and joy raiders please. Located in Parramatta Area. -
Howdy, Probably get flamed for this but here goes. 2 Weekends ago, I attempted to do my RB25DET's timing kit (2nd time doing it, so not a noob). But this time on this particular R33, I've managed to 1. damage the harmonic balancer 2. possibly farked the VCT, I rattle guned it's mum to take off the nut as it was like welded on Anyways, got a new balancer, etc. and now the car is running, but it runs like poo over ~5k rpm. It has no farking pull what so ever. So, I've checked the timing markings (again) and they all line up 100%, the tensioner is done correctly and locked in (giving about 1/4 turn of the belt) But the car still runs like poo, the CAS has been installed exactly where it was last marked (but I have yet to check the base timing with a gun). I can hear the VCT clicking over, etc..but I'm not overly sure how it works. I'm concerned I screwed it using a rattle gun. On my previous R33 it came off with just a wrench, with this one it was like seized, so out came the rattle gun. So is there any possible way of checking the VCT besides hearing it click? -
Almost new ORC 559 twin plate clutch, Push Type, includes lightened flywheel, done less than 400kms on an R33 GTR driven only on the street Suits Nissan Skyline B26DETT, RB25DET,RB20DET This world famous clutch from Japan is perfect for cars putting out 350kwatts at the wheels and is brilliant for tracking and drifting It was purchased for $2,250 and I am selling it for $1,350 This is a brilliant buy for an almost brand new clutch I am in Melbourne and you are welcome to come and see it For some reason, I cannot attach photos (weird!) so just contact me with your email address and I will email them to you -
Set of genuine Nissan coilpacks in perfect working condition, Came off RB25, Only selling due to ignition upgrade, $100 FIRM, Please call/Text as I am not on here much lately, Brisbane 0481109712
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Set of Denso 550cc topfeed injectors on a custom made billit style fuel rail with speedflow fittings, was on RB25 with standard intake, perfect working condition, only removed due to upgrade, $250 FIRM, Please call or text as I am not on here much lately, Brisbane, 0481109712 -
Hi guys, does anyone know the different angles of the throttle butterfly valve with respect to the rpm range of the engine? I also need to know the air flow rate with respect to the rpm of the engine. The engine must be a rb25det, preferably running with stock turbo, stock boost and stock intake manifold. I know most of the info can be obtained by consult software like Ecutalk, but I don't have access to a consult cable. I need the info for some CFD work. Any help would be much appreciated! Sam -
located in ACT - Apexi SAFC (Black) - $250 used - Greddy Profec B Spec 2 boost controller- $300 used - GCG GT30 0.82 rear housing (internal wastegate) - $400-$450 NEW - wastegate actuator 12PSI w/bracket - $100 NEW - 5 bolt dump pipe - mild steel - $150 NEW - Oil cooler/relocator kit (fits RB) - $180 used - R32 GTR wing - Dark metallic blue - $150 used - Kinugawa TO4E oil drain - $50 NEW - HKS SSQV (comes with circlip/2bolt mount to fit RB25DET standad BOV position $100 used - Stock RB25DET ECU - $120 used - Stock RB25DET Air Flow Meter - $120 used - 2x Federal 595SS 245/45ZR18 (lots of tread) - $100 used - Tein HA Coilovers to suit R32 GTST front pair (felt fine when in car 2 years ago) - $200 - Trust Airinx air filter - $100 All prices negotiable. give me an offer. PM or text 0431900505 will post pics eventually, can send pics if requested Would prefer local sale located in Woden, ACT Cheers Simon -
Hey guys just swapped my 09 Lancer for a R34 GT-T and I'm loving it! Recent problems that I have had in last 2 days, Rough Idle. Rough idle is on start up, when cold and when the A/C is first turned on. It will stall every now and then from these things but its not chugging it just lowers the revs right down and just stops and then starts up just fine again.. Misfiring? The car only does this down the low (1500rpm-2000rpm) and high (4500rpms-7000rpm) revs of the car, its just one or two misfires down low but when you hit full boost at 4000rpm the misfiring goes crazy at about 5500rpm and does not stop till the revs go back down.. Fuel Economy! So I'm driving not too fast doing the speed limits not excessively boosting or anything have it in 5th gear at 60kmp/h and I'm just reaching 300kms from a full tank! The guy I bought it off said he gets 450-500kms from a tank. When changing down gears the amount of fuel that you can hear being burnt is ridiculous! I love the sound but I rather drive the car for longer!! So mods that the car has: GT30/40 Turbo Adaptronic ECU (tuned) 3" Turbo Back Exhaust Air Intake Intercooler 12Psi 240rwkw Stock Injectors tho etc.. I've done some searching and there was one really good post on here but the links no longer work because it is too old, so if anyone could either direct me to a link or give me some info that would be great!! I have a feeling it's spark plugs or tune? Hope it's something small and not expensive $$$ Thanks everyone! -
VIC: R33 RB25DET S1.5 273RWKR ENGINE Since getting a work car 4 years ago my skyline has sat under cover in the driveway and only done 1000k’s or so. With it costing reg and insurance it’s time to sell it up and move on to the next hobby. I’m looking to break it up starting with the engine only seeing as it’s worth the most (over $10,000 in receipts spent on toughening it up). It’s a strong, well maintained engine with oil and filter changed every 10K kms. It’s still in the car and running to be seen. It’s done 56K km since the rebuild (156K kms total on car). It did 600kms on the freeway each week for 2 and a half years so it’s been a pretty easy life since the rebuild. Engine RB25DET S1.5 Power 273rwkw (with dyno sheet) Head Ported & polished with angle cut valves and Tomei head gasket Pistons Forged - Venolia USA Cylinders Machined and sleeved Rods Shot peen strengthened Crank GTR Injectors Denso 740cc Airflow meter Q45 Infinity AFM Air filter Pod – could do with replacing Turbo Custom: Ball bearing: Equivalent to GT2876R? Compressor – A/R 0.70, HKS exhaust housing – A/R 0.64. Wategate Internal BOV GReddy Boost controller Simple bleed valve ECU Power FC tuned rich for the motors longevity Asking $3,900 for all of the above. Negotiable and may break further depending on interest. Once the motor’s SOLD the rest of the goodies in the car will appear here… Gearbox with short shift kit / full drivetrain. Impul light weight racing rims (17in white 5 spoke). GTR rear spoiler / Veilside pods / skirts. Full black coloured body with resprayed roof and bonnet. Blitz 3in catback exhaust / x-force dump-front pipe. Apexi intercooler. Recaro seats. Nizmo 300km/h dash cluster. OR…. $8,400 for the whole car as is. -
For sale is my R33 GTST. Since getting a work car 4 years ago my skyline has sat under cover in the driveway and only done 1000k’s or so. With it costing reg and insurance it’s time to sell it up and move on to the next hobby. The car has a strong, well maintained engine. It’s done 56K km since the rebuild (156K kms total on car). It did 600kms on the freeway each week for 2 and a half years so it’s been a pretty easy life given its power. I’ve had the car since 2003 so don’t really want to part with but have to cut my loses eventually. Car info; 156,000kms with current rego until August 2013. Interior is in great condition except for 2 holes in the drivers A pillar from mounted gauges. New leather break and gear boots. Skyline floor mats in good condition. Recaro seats with some standard wear on them. Nizmo 300km/h dash cluster. Short shift kit. Impul light weight racing rims (17in white 5 spoke). GTR rear spoiler / Veilside pods / skirts. Full black coloured body with resprayed roof, boot and bonnet. Turbo back exhaust; x-force dump-front pipe, x-force high flow cat, Blitz 3in catback. Apexi intercooler. Other extras that I may have forgotten to mention. Engine info; 273rwkw (with dyno sheet) useable power. Power FC tuned rich for the motors longevity. Ported & polished with angle cut valves. Forged pistons. GTR crank and rods. Denso 740cc injectors. Q45 Infinity AFM Pod filter – could do with replacing Turbo - Custom: Ball bearing: Equivalent to GT2876R? Compressor – A/R 0.70, HKS exhaust housing – A/R 0.64. Greddy blow off valve. For a RWC it would most likely need the following standard wear and tear items; new windscreen, front discs, potentially tires, clutch, the tacho is playing up (I was using a 4.5in tacho with shift light but took it out because it was a functional but a bit wanky). All of which I haven't spent the money on in case it gets. $8,400neg for the car as is without RWC or Reg. A tough looking car in great condition that gets plenty of comments. Well worth a look for and reasonably priced for what’s in it. Willing to split the motor out for $3,900 (including everything under engine info) if the interest is there and part out the rest. Thanks, Adam
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Hi, I have a VL Commodore with a naturally aspirated RB30, done near 300,000KM and it's screwed. How tricky is it to go to an RB25DET and what mods will have I have to do to the engine bay? Is it worth doing this or would it be cheaper to rebuild the RB30 to take a 35-40 Garrett turbo which will set me back roughly $12-15K? Also where do I get a good RB25DET from? I live 3 hours from Brisbane. Thanks heaps -
Hi All I have regretfully decided to part with my baby!! I really don't want to sell her but i just bough another property and need the $$$ to start construction of my new house! I have a 1989/90 R32 GTS-T for sale! I have been building this car aver 3 years & Big Dollars have been spent on it. It will make the perfect toy for someone! Details are below! *RB25 Turbo conversion 320rwkw (430rwhp) Built & Tuned by Insight Motorsport!! *19" rims with 80% rubber * 6 months NSW Rego. * Haltech Platinum pro fully tunable ECU. *GT 35/40 Turbo, dual walbro fuel pumps, E85 fuel conversion (EFLEX from Caltex Service stations) Cams modified by SURE CAM, high mount turbo manifold, Hypertune intake manifold & Throttle body, EVO fuel rail, BOV, HKS adjustable cam gears with clear cover, excedy clutch (no slipping at all) external waste gate with dump pipe, NEW sideskirts, NEW rear bar, NEW stainless exhaust with X-Force polished tip, GTR front bar, front mount intercooler & a heap more goodies. * Standard interior (immaculate) *130000kms ONLY! This car sits in my garage & gets driven (not thrashed) around once a month! I have only done around 5000kms in 4 years & some of that was during tuning. Price $16990.00. No Time wasters please call Danny on 0407417378 located in the Penrith area! -
So I've been having this issue lately on and off where the engine looses power. The best way to describe it would be it's like turning off the car except all the electrics, dash, lights and everything else works perfectly it's just the engine cutting out. I've had it into the mechanics and like usual they couldn't get it to do it. So they have given me the usual check list. Wriggle the loom with the car running and try to cause the problem, change AFM and back the BOV off a bit but I'm still having this issue. The problem is it might not do it for a day or two then just when I begin to think the problem has gone, BAM cuts out again then it will play up every 100m. Sometimes it will only loose power for a split second other time it will do it for a 30 or 40 seconds. It happens any time from being stopped at lights to cruising at 100km/h. Normally it will stall then I will turn it on and it fires fine for maybe .5 of a second then it stalls do that 3 or 4 times till it finally stays running. I have noticed when it has stalled while the revs are still dropping if I hold the accelerator in the boost gauge moves from vacuum to 0 and I can hear a slight sucking noise. I'm not sure if that has any bearing on anything or not but it's about the most I can come with. The fuel gauge is also playing up which has me thinking maybe there could be an electrical fault in the pump craddle somewhere and the fuel pump is loosing power. Anyone had this problem before or does anybody have any idea's of what else I could try? It's really doing my head in. Also the car is relatively stock just has a front facing plenum, front mount, exhaust and boost-T. Thanks
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Fs: Apexi Power Fc Rb25Det
Spicymouse posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Forsale is my power FC that is for a R33 GTST RB25DET, just the ECU only! only selling because i need the money to replace my rear main T.T Looking for 900ono Free postage insured in aus. located in mackay if anyone wants it to pick it up. text or call 0418571941 -
1999 Series 2 Stagea Metallic Black Manual 252kw @ the wheels @ 16psi Located : Cheltenham, SA Neil – 0433 852 094 Neo motor - 109xxxkm (100,000km Serive done) Garrett GT3076R turbo Garrett braided line kit Turbosmart T boost controller Nissan Z32 AFM Nistune ECU Walbro fuel pump 550cc injectors Adjustable Exhaust Cam Gear + Clear Cam Cover Turbo Back 3 “ Exhaust with 3” Varex Muffler (Quieter than stock to stomper loud in a button) HKS pod filter Greddy catch can 52mm alloy radiator with twin thermo fans on relay Delta fin FMIC kit with t-bolt clamps throughout Oil cooler/relocator kit with braided lines ISC N1 coilovers on 12/10 springs (Firm but not stupid hard) GTR sway bars (Custom Adapters) MASA Front Bar + Dolphin Grill and Skirts (Was told it was a Dolphin kit when I bought it) Factory Momo steering wheel Air/Fuel + Boost Gauge 17"x8” +32 BBS RS-G Wheels with 1000km old Achilies ATR Sports 235/45/R17 All round. R34 brake conversion at all corners Adjustable suspension and camber arms GTR manual 5 speed conversion with Nismo HD clutch kit Tow bar rated to 1200kg professionally fitted Polishing to engine bay (Lifter Covers, Crossover pipe, Heat shield) New Fusion Power Plant Stereo RRS 250 Custom Plates Included I may include a proper 260RS Manual Center Console (Go for $1k on Yahoo Auctions) for the right buyer. Con’s : Gearbox thrust bearings are noisey on acceleration, and an aircon has rubbed through causing it to leak. $14000 As Is $15000 with Rebuilt Gearbox and Aircon fixed. -
Selling a Nismo oil cap that I no longer need. It has not been used. Part number 15255-RN013. Price - $80. Located in Westleigh NSW.
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Looking for a half cut for an engine conversion. Not settled on one type of engine so let me know what you've got! Would prefer a complete half cut but if it's an RB20 or 25 I can get away with just an engine and gearbox as wiring parts etc. are easy to come by. PM or SMS on 0418 922 780
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G'day Canberra! Just letting you guys know my wagon is up for sale. Links below: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/quakers-hill/cars-vans-utes/loading-/1044965033 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203572570057517&set=a.10203572569497503.1073741827.1313172590&type=3&theater 6 months rego renewed, timing belt & service this week. VERY clean, hardly any scratches & not even a single dent! The coil cover (was off to change plugs & check timing) & engine cover is back on. Willing to deliver to Canberra for serious buyer, I'll get to see my family then too! PM me, ring or message. 0438 423 096 Thanks.
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As the topic states I have a R33 GTSt apexi power FC for sale with hand controller, $450 the PFC works fine, however I could not get the boost controller function to work. Everything else works fine, responds to all changes from AFM, injector, timing input, idle settings, saves settings when car shuts off, hand controller displays correctly, all other functions tested and works fine etc This may be repairable, not sure how much it'll cost. So if you're after a cheap aftermarket plug-in ECU and have a separate boost controller then this could do the job Located in Chatswood, will post, PM me if interested -
Hey guys for sale: 1998 R34 GT-T Skyline 4 Door Sunroof model rb25det Auto FMIC FPR Coilovers 3" exhaust from dump back. TA style Rear bar URAS skirts could use tlc front bar was smashed by unkind curb, so currently has a series 1 front bar fitted. Clean interior, just missing map light cover on sunroof controls and tweeter cover on A-pillar trim. Selling until the car im chasing sells, so will be selling at a pretty cheap price. $6500 with reg no RWC $6250 with reg byo wheels no RWC $6000 no reg no RWC Body is pretty clean, vinyl wrapped boot, bonnet and b-pillars. Not interested in swaps. Txt me on 0422022887 or Pm me Located on the Sunshine coast QLD
