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Hi All, I've done some quick searches but wasn't really able to get any definitive answers for what I was looking for, maybe I wasn't looking hard enough Anyway, a friend of mine is looking to replace some leaky mild steel dump pipes he has on his skyline. They are custom 3" mild steel dumps. These go into 3" front pipes that run into a twin 3" cat back to just before the diff where it merges into a single 4". I believe the front pipes and cat back are CES items. He is on a bit of a tight budget at the moment for various reasons and can't afford to go CES competition dumps and front pipe combo ( almost $1700 in mild steel!!!) which was my suggestion. Are there any off the shelf 3" items available that anyone knows of, or does he even need 3" dumps. I was under the impression that the size at dumps and front pipes is most crucial in limiting restriction in turbine flow. (As well as placing turbulence at least 400mm away from turbine outlet. The basic specs of the motor are as follows: 2.8L stroker kit HKS GT-RS twin turbo kit Stock mild steel exhaust manifolds Oversize valves (inlet and exhaust) Tomei cams (268deg in/ex I think with the largest lift) The engine is making 550rwhp at present Custom 3" dump pipes (leaky as the mild steel is corroded under heat wrap) CES 3" twin front pipes CES dual 3" exhaust merging to single 4" at rear. Response is more important to him than outright power (if that has any bearing in suggestions). Thanks in advance for any guidance! Cheers Jamie

Hi Everyone, attempt 2 at posting this thread. Tip: Don’t be trawling Wasteland threads and post something right before alt-tabbing back and trying to post a for sale thread that’s massive. TLDR: Buy the engine that did this, thanks. Rest of complete setup for sale if you or someone does. Can just bolt it into a R33 or R34 GTT and save moneys (like, everything). Obviously could put the engine anywhere you can put a RB25. Very negotiable if you want to buy the entire thing and bolt it or re-sell it or what have you. https://www.facebook.com/ChequeredTuning/posts/718855688158365 I recently ‘finished’ my R34 setup, finally, after about 6 years of crap. Then I drove it into an Embankment at low speed and bent the chassis and pretty much nothing else, so everything in this list is 100% working and very near new. However, it was enough to write off the chassis. I will only separate parts if the engine is sold. If the engine is not sold, I’ll get the lot put back into a different shell. In this way I’m letting rajab decide whether I go GTT or something else. Note: In car and running, can physically show you if in Victoria. Engine: BC 2.9L Stroker Kit http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0238 Tomei Type B Poncams Tomei Exhaust Cam Gear Nitto Custom Forged Pistons Ported/Polished Head (unsure on exact flow. clearly works though, and can see the exhaust side is slightly larger than stock manifold ports) Spitfire Coilpacks JUN Oil Pump New Gaskets, Bearings when rebuilt New Idler, Tensioner, Timing, Water Pump when rebuilt Cometic 1.8mm Metal Head Gasket ARP Head Studs Xspurt 1400cc Ethanol Injectors Turbosmart Kompact Plumb Back BOV EARLS Fuel Filter Totally legal in Vic. Totally legal anywhere else, too. Vicroads will give you no problems with this. Engine has done 15,000kms since built. As before, can see running. Has been 1 day since dyno runs. Yes, I bent the chassis the day after. This was sad. I have all the reciepts, emails back and forth, all the info you're likely to want, though really the proof is in the dyno sheet. Seems to love timing (running a lot, no pinging) Seems to love boost (running a lot, no pinging or weirdness) It's about as solid as any engine you'll ever get built by someone who doesn't call themselves "Nissan" It also won't take 6 months of stuffing around, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting, waiting and so on to be built, put together, put in the car, run in, etc. It's all done. Put it in and drive. If you buy the ECU and Turbo and everything else as its for sale, you won't even need a damn tune. Ever. lol I'd love $12k for it. I'm negotiable. That seems like a high number. If you like, google the parts listed above and ask your local engine builder for a quote on labour. Then add the cost of waiting for it to all arrive, be put together and so on. It's OK. I'll wait. But I'm pretty negotiable if need be. But not stupidly so. 3k will not get you this engine and I'll just buy a stock auto GTT sedan for about $3 and get it all put in there and get back to 330RWKW at 3500 RPM. Lets entertain the thought that someone buys the engine. If so, everything below this sentence is also for sale. it's also very new. Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 (this is a glorious ECU) Haltech Wideband CAN Controller (controls AFR on the fly, 200 times a second. Has stuff built in to stop it doing weird things and blowing your engine. You can also set it to max adjust like 1% if you're super worried). Not that you need it, because the tune in the ECU had this OFF when it got the AFR mentioned on the Chequred tuning link. Full E-Flex sensor. Put whatever you want in the tank, man. Garrett GTX3076R Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm - This is welded onto the turbine housing. This setup clearly works. If you hate it, you could always put on a kando housing for $200 and mount this wherever you want with whatever manifold you want. Walbro 460 LPH Fuel Pump - complete with super wiring! Scotty Custom dump+screamer made by the venerable scotty nm35 - 2x45 degree stainless bends instead of the usual 90. Goes to 5in cat. So much flow! Has seperate 2in screamer which could be plumed back into the cat if you ask nicely. I was going to do this, but maaaay have found myself making this thread instead. Shit. Suspension and Grip things Front and Rear Bilstein Shocks Eibach front and rear main springs. Eibach rear helper springs Coil over kit x4 so you can raise or lower the height and be fully sick if you so wish (I didn't) Custom Front Strut Tops - Allows more travel in the front. Just incase joe cop decides to push down on your bonnet. Or say, you go over a bump. Whiteline Caster Kit Whiteline Front Camber kit Whiteline Rear Camber Kits x 2 Bump Stop Kits X 2 R34 Series II Helical Diff and half shafts - Someone said these were rare. Works well! Rear Subframe alignment kit (pineapples - they work!) Whiteline 24mm Front Sway Bar (BNF24Z) Whiteline 24mm Rear Sway Bar (BNR11XXZ) Heavy Duty Swaybar Links for the above Brand new Nitto NT05 Tyres - 245/40/18 and 275/40/18 on F/R respectively. Ok, they've done maybe 100kms. Autech 8piston 356MM Front brake kit. People talk bla bla bla about suspension all the time, but I was able to go WoT in 1st gear (auto, remember, 1st gear is a bit longer) with dyno results posted above and not lose grip. I would say its worth spending the money and not getting BC's and would do it again. Or you could save half the cost and buy mine. If you buy my engine. Which is again, saving a lot. I also have a really, really, really built Auto transmission for aforementioned R34. I know you're reading, yawning, thinking "man, lolz, auto" but it has its own ECU, two transmission coolers, and is connected to the paddles on the R34 steering wheel. Touch the button, insta shift goodness. Touch the button when you're cruising around town, insta shift smoothness you can't feel. Do it at 7000RPM at WoT and you may or may not need spine surgery. But considering you fell asleep reading that sentence about automatic transmissions, whatever, buy the engine. Or not. May seem like a lot, cost a lot more to begin with. Be financially responsible by buying the fruits of my financial irresponsibility! PM me, PM me now!