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1989 NISSAN SKYLINE HR32 GTS-4 305HP RB20 MONSTER!! Four wheel drive handling with rear wheel drive fun at the flick of a switch!! 17” Alloy wheels Colour; metallic black Interior Colour; grey/black Transmission; 5 speed Manual Body; 2 door 4 seat COUPE Drive Type; 4x4 Engine; 6 cylinder Petrol Turbo Intercooled 2.0 L (1998cc) RB20DET engine VIPER Remote Start Alarm System tomei 256 in/ex camshafts hks duralumin cam gears hks fine tune timing belt genuine nissan n1 water pump factory GTR rb26dett sump RB26 cam covers and valley cover painted custom metallic blue nitto clear timing cover splitfire coilpacks ku engineering intake plenum modified R34 GTR fuel rail and hpc coated Nismo fuel pressure regulator RB26 440cc injectors (flowed and cleaned) billet throttle body HKS 2835pro s turbo kit, inc hks turbo, lines, custom alloy heatshield and stainless dump pipe (done about 5000k's) genuine z32 airflow meter HKS air filter kit Full stainless xforce dump pipe back 3'' exhaust custom stainless lobster back intercooler piping 600x300x100mm tube and fin intercooler mspec alloy radiator +genuine R34 gtr radiator hoses intank walbro fuel pump apexi ap engineering power fc and handcontroller hks evc iv electronic boost controller os giken tripple plate clutch genuine r32 gtr gearbox hks 60mm boost gauge rose jointed adjustable front camber arms adjustable rear camber arms hicas lock bar + all hicas gear removed tein adjustable coilovers bbs lm wheels 17x8 front 17x9 with kumho tyres all round R33 gts-t front brake caliper and disc upgrade, dba slotted rotors, endless pads all round, endless brake fluid r32 Gtr carbon fibre bonnet by "custom carbon" genuine R32 GTR front grille, front bumper bar and lower lip Carizma sideskirts genuine mspec rear spats genuine r32 gtr rear n1 bootlip genuine R33 GTR floor mats genuine R32 GTR steering wheel clarion dvd/cd player cusco front lower stabilizer bar front strut brace cusco master cylinder stopper New Alternator New Dry Cell Battery Car was tuned by GODZILLA Motorsports in November last year. Always run on bp ultimate, regular oil changes/services etc. Has a bit of Sun damage on the roof. Very fun car to drive! Selling Registered. More Pics at: http://www.boostclassifieds.com.au/advert/2203182-1989-Nissan-Skyline-Hr32-Gtst-for-Sale.html $12500 or reasonable offer. Phone or Text 0413995361

Selling my RWD 1992 RS Liberty. Asking $6500 or swaps for R32 or something of interest let me know what you have willing to put cash your way. Sti turbo running 14psi, upgraded fuel pump, fmic, BC coilovers with camber tops, whiteline sway bars front and rear, adjustable rear arms, wrx front bucket seats. Interior and paint in awesome condition for its age. Rego till Feb 2014 Located NSW Central Coast Won't let me upload photos so message me and i can send them to you 0410960500

This car has been a dream to own, it has performed perfectly for us for long trips and taken us around in comfort and style. The only reason we are selling is to purchase a 4x4 with a big towing capacity so we can tow a caravan. Car - 2004 Nissan stagea Autech Axis Price - $16200 Negotiable (will consider all offers, potential swap for 4x4). Location - Hornsby NSW Contact - 0425311811 Specifications 2004 Model Powerful 3.5L NA V6 Engine 5 speed Automatic with tiptronic 79000kms Dual side Digital Climate Control Reverse Camera Full Leather Interior Factory Heated & Electric Front Seats Factory 18inch Alloys Always meticulously serviced & maintained by local workshop Huge Boot Space, dual opening boot for easy access. Drives great, handles great, power when you need it. Thanks EDIT - Forgot Pictures

Hi All I saw some people asking for HICAS Removal Tutorial on the R32 whilst looking at the one for the R33. Here it is and hope it helps. I also hope I'm posting it in the right section as this one is on handling. Please move it to the correct ones if the Mods think fit. Removing the HICAS on an R32 is actually quite an easy job (as long as you have the right tools). I used a guide taken from the NissanSilvia.comforum. I chose this method because it means there is no capping of the hydraulic lines and no need to take the power steering pump apart - you simply need to get hold of a length of rubber hose and some jubilee clips. If you have an aftermarket exhaust (and maybe a standard one) you'll need to take off the piece that passes over the hicas bar at the back, otherwise it's impossible to get any movement with the 32mm spanner you need to use to undo the bar. It is recommended to WD40 the exhaust bolts some time before you start to save shearing any bolts! I haven't had the rear wheels aligned yet, but spent quite a while doing it by eye. Getting the wheels aligned properly is on my to do list... Needed: HICAS lock bar 50cm of 10mm (or 3/8" is a bit more common) ID hose. Transmission cooler hose works nicely 2x hose clamps 1L powersteering fluid Tools: 2x big shifters for tie rods or 32mm open ender 17, 21mm open ended spanner 10,12mm ring spanners (ratchet spanners really helpful) 14, 19, 21 and 24mm sockets. Hacksaw PS. Power steering fluid leaks everywhere, keep this in mind and keep some buckets, trays etc to catch it all - it makes cleaning up A LOT easier. Fitting the lockbar Firstly, put the lock bar on. To do this, take the tie rod boots off both sides (cut the wire/cable ties) and get your shifters onto these. Crack them and then start undoing the one that came loose. Keep going until you can slip your 17mm open ended spanner into the gap between the tie rod and the hicas rack. You will see a little stub between them, this stub has flat surfaces, get the spanner onto this to hold it by tightening the loose tie rod back onto it. You can now undo the other tie rod. Inside the hicas rack is a hollow bar that the tie rods screw into, if you just turn one without holding the other, both turn. Now that both are cracked, undo the rack from the car via the 2 19mm bolts above and the 2 brackets for the hicas lines (10mm). Once these are off, you can pull the rack away from the subframe a little and it makes getting the tie rods out of the rack a bit easier. Now just unscrew the tie rods. Get your lock bar and screw the tie rods into this while it is off the car. when both rods are all the way in, mount it back onto the car with the 19mm bolts and then tighten the tie rods (dont have to hold anything this time). Then slide the tie rod boots back over and use cable ties/wire to secure them. The HICAS is now locked mechanically and YOU WILL NEED A WHEEL ALIGNMENT. Removing rear-wards lines Now we have to worry about the hydraulics. You will currently have a big heavy rack dangling down, if you follow the lines to the front of the car a little you will see a small solenoid. Undo the 2 lines from this (21mm) and then you can remove the rack from the car. Next unbolt the solenoid from the car, there is a 10mm and a 12mm bolt holding it on. Follow the piping all the way up to the front of the car, removing the 10mm bolts and the piping from the clips on the way. Once you get to where the chassis rail curves up, you will see 2 high pressure connections. Hold onto one end (21mm) and undo the other end (17mm) and then you can pull the lines and rear solenoid from the car. At this stage, most of the stuff is gone, there is only the big solenoid at the front resting underneath the intake plenum and the problem of what to do with the power steering lines that used to go to HICAS. Looping lines If you look just in front of the engine cross member, you will see a few power steering lines (steel pipes). one of these goes into a high pressure fitting and then into the hicas solenoid. get a hacksaw and cut through this steel pipe, connect your hose onto it, hose clamp it and feed it up through the car. Now put the car down/get out from under it and look in the engine bay and find the solenoid (behind the battery and under the intake plenum, on your inner guard). In front of the radiator you will see a loop of aluminium on the left. this is your power steering cooler. Follow the two lines back into the engine bay and you will see that one goes into the solenoid and one goes back under the car (and back to the resevoir). On the line that goes back the solenoid you will see a short ~15cm long moulded rubber hose held on with hose clamps. take this off and then put your other hose that you just put on from the bottom onto the aluminium pipe, not into the solenoid, then hose clamp it. Now the rear stage of your power steering pump, which used to feed into the hicas and pump into the cooler aswell, only pumps into the cooler and then returns as normal. As there is no restriction from a solenoid or rack, only low pressure fittings have to be used. If you have any trouble getting the hoses onto the steel/aluminium pipes, just put the hose in boiling water and then try, should work. Now you can rip the solenoid out and the remaining lines. there are 2 14mm banjo bolts on top of the solenoid, undo these so you can seperate the lines from the solenoid which makes removal easier. You may also want to undo the 21mm banjo bolt on the bottom to disconnect the inlet to the solenoid, but you can just wiggle it out with it still attached. The solenoid then has 12mm bolts holding it in, 1 at the top and 2 at the bottom on either side (pain in the arse to get to). When they're off, wriggle the thing out. The remaining lines are held on by 2 10mm bolts and a 12mm nut at the bottom. Undo these and then wriggle them out again. HICAS warning light Many people have said that locking HICAS causes your steering to get heavy, but they simply haven't done it properly. There has been NO change in steering feel with any of the cars that I have done. The only problem is the fact that the HICAS warning light comes on (because it's not there...). This can be solved by cutting the warning sender wire on the HICAS computer or removing the warning light's bulb from the dash. I prefer to cut the wire as it's quicker, easier and if you for some reason lose power steering fluid, it will tell you when your resevoir is low. The HICAS computer is underneath the parcel shelf, it is to the right of centre (when looking in from the boot). Unplug the smaller of the two plugs in the back of it and then cut the green with white trace line wire. You can also just leave the smaller of the two harnesses out and it does the same thing, no ill effects and no HICAS light. All done There you have it, you have just removed your HICAS setup. Look in awe at all the useless weight that you just removed from your car. Of course, you could've just looped the lines at the back, but you will only save a bit of weight, or you can block the lines off but once again you wont lose any weight and you can destroy the rear stage of your pump which means new pump. CAN happen, not will, a lot of people have gotten away with this. Now fill the resevoir up with fluid and start the car, powersteering pump will probly make funny noises as its pumping a bit of air as well. Just keep turning the steering wheel lock to lock until the noise stops and have someone watching the resevoir and making sure it stays topped up. Any air that is left in there will come out over the next couple of days as the system gravity bleeds itself (resevoir is the highest point). Here's the pics I took from my own install... The HICAS lock bar installed : Remove the bit that was here (solenoid of some sort?) : You can see where the 2 hydraulic pipes have been removed along the length of the car : Bottom pipe here is the one that needs to be cut, that shiny bolt is the sump bolt : Taken from underneath the car, you can see the new hose being routed up to where the solenoid in the engine bay was : From the top of the car, this is where the hicas solenoid was. oil filter changes will be easy now!: And this is where the new hose fitted at the bottom should be routed to: This is in front of the rad behind the front bumper. doesn't look like much but that loop of pipe is the power steering fluid cooler :