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Showing results for tags 'Wiring'.
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This is a walk-through for anyone who is attempting to wire a standard RB25DET Neo into an R32 4-Door Non-Turbo Skyline. The car that I have done the conversion on is a Skyline GTE - (Manual RB20E). This walk-through will work to a tee with this car but I cannot guarantee it will work with any others. Although I would not be surprised if it worked on other cars with an RB20E or RB20DE - if someone could confirm this it would be good. It is also assumed you have already removed the previous engine and wiring loom and have installed the complete engine, standard loom, and sensors from the RB25DET Neo. This is primarily a wiring guide as there are plenty of other tutorials floating around for engine and accessories installation. It will be broken into several different stages as I am still working on a couple of things. Also, if there are questions you have regarding anything else please don't hesitate to ask because I am going from memory on this one. -
Hey guys, I know its the wrong forums but im chasing a complete loom for a Series 2 S14, all; engine loom, fuse box and body loom, If anyone can help me out let me know thanks.
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HI Guys, So I Have owned the R34 for a year now , I noticed form the start that the TCS off light is always on from start-up I asked the previous owner why this was and he said that he had disabled it because it interferes with the Power FC....? It never Really bothered me because, well its fun with it off anywayz =P but the other day I locked the brakes up and this has happened to me previously I don't have any ABS lights on, on my dash but it's definitely not working and I would like to have ABS lol. So I got out the wiring diagrams and tracked down these boxes in the boot behind the seat all the wires where unplugged I mean everything the harness had also been pulled out from the wheel well, that goes down to the underside of the car now I have plugged them all back in to where I think is correct...?, as you can see in the photos. I also put the cables back through the wheel well and to the underside but I have only managed to find one connection point (which I am guessing is the rear ABS) but I can't for the life of me work out where the others go! (as seen in pic) Also after connecting up the boxes and that one wire I still don't have ABS but I don't have any warning lights in the dash and the fusses are all fine agh... Help please?? -
Hi all Recently installed some new gauges on my GTT and saw there was nothing (that I could find) on wiring them up correctly so decided to make a little post to help anyone out in future There's a pic of the stock wiring loom. The green/yellow is a 12v power line which you connect to so you don't blow any fuses in your lighter and the red wire with purple strip (third from the top) is your headlight switch. Strangely I couldn't find a strong ground so I just hooked up a wire to this bolt which is visible once the A/C unit is removed For the ignition wire I just spliced into my blue/white wire from my head unit but you can also do this with your ignition or lighter, I just found this the easiest to do Lastly I SOLDERED and HEAT SHRINKED all the wires together and made sure not to do the old twist and tape that so many of us are guilty of. Alternatively you can crimp but as temp is relatively low under the dash board I don't think it matters what you do Hope this helps and if anyone wants to know how to do the full install feel free to comment/pm me
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Hi Guys, I have a frustrating problem, currently I am trying to hardware the fuel pump. I currently have a switch that is wired to my battery that turns the ground on and off. Now I have finished hardwiring my pump through an additional relay now what happens I will list below: 1. When I have the key set to ignition and the ground switch off the battery is turned on the fuel pump turns on via the new relay for 5 seconds and then switches off (normal) 2. Power is remaining on I switch the ignition off pull the key out, put it back on and turn it to ignition and it won't ignite fuel pump for 5 seconds. Now as long as I have key in the ignition position as noted in step 1 when I turn the ground switch on for power the fuel pump will prime for 5 seconds as required no matter what. Can any body shed some light on what needs to be done ? Or had the same issue. Thanks
