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Hey all, I have an RB25Det NEO With a Plazmaman Intake manifold and Haltec Platinum Pro. I am finishing off my build and for the sake of aesthetics and simplification i would like to remove the factory IAC and install an all electric type to be controlled by the haltec. I have seen haltec offer different types of Idle Air control valves - 2 port, 4 port , single and 2 screw motor, stepper motor etc... But not sure which would be appropriate for what i am after. IACV Kit IAC Valve 1 IAC Valve 2 Has anybody used them in the past or can offer any guidance? Cheers,

Hi All, I bought a complete R32 RB26 to use the head on a 26/30 and am now looking to offload the bottom end. It has had something go through it so it will require new pistons and a bore to 86.5mm or possibly 87mm. I'm looking for: Block - $150 Crank - $150 Rods & Pistons - $80 Or: Crank, rods & pistons - $200 Crank, rods, pistons & block - $300 I also have: RB26 sump modified to suit RWD - $100 factory oil cooler/heat exchanger - $30 AAC Valve - $50 Standard fuel rail modified to be twin entry - $50 You can contact me via PM or on 0427 123 414 Cheers, Shane

Hi everyone I'm trying to find a aac valve for my rb20det. It's a motor from a 200zr. It's a red top with a top mount inter cooler with a nics inlet manifold. I can't find anything anywhere. I was hoping to buy new! If anyone can help me out that would be great. Cheers in advance

hello SAU. i've just brought my first car, a skyline of course. I've had it for a year now with litte problems. although its only a stepping stone for my skyline I take alot of care maintaing it as best i can with my engineering and servicing experience. its a r33 1997 gts25 import with 180000ks recently after returning from overseas my car has had a painfully rough idle and warm start up issue only below 2000 rpm. the engine feels as if its missing or almost stalling randomly at any stops especially. i was attempting to replace the gaskets and polish the head lights and foggies before i started it the first time. so i cant tell if its something ive done or its happened while i was away. when it was being started and driven once every 2 weeks. i took out the coils and plugs, cleaned and inspected them while sealing all the valve cover everything seemed fine. i've tried everything ive reasearched so far and nothing seems to work it has no fault codes. i cleaned the AAC and the MAF but found no change. the plugs and coils seem fine only one with a small crack in the ceramic and another coil with some oil on the outside of the boot but no noticeable firing issues. i do have a power steering leak and it moans when its cold. hence the AAC check. Please help cheers!

Introduction I've always had problems with my idle on my r33 GTR running a power FC; it runs 264 cams and felt quite lumpy and often hunted for the right idle speed and AFR. I do the tuning myself but could never get the idle just right.. until today! This took me 4 hours to do but I am quite slow and I have quite a busy engine bay so I had to remove some things to get to what I was after. From what I have learned, there are two air control parts on a typical GTR, the IACV and the AAC. I'll show a picture and brief explanation of both: - AAC This is relatively easy to get to on the RB26; it is just underneath the intake plenum and has 4 bolts that are roughly 2 inches in length and are a 10 socket. It is comprised of two major parts; the electrical component which shows the AAC label and the controller which has the spring and screw inside which allows the fluctuation of air. As I understand, the AAC is designed to increase air flow when electrical load occurs, such as a power assisted steering wheel being turned. When this gets dirty, it can cause high idle because the spring holds the gap that lets the air in open causing a leak in the system which will also cause lean behaviour. Alternatively, if it's filled with gunk, it could cause hunting due to bad air fuel ratios from going too rich. See below for some pictures of me holding the AAC after I gave it a quick clean. (The AAC below is not my image) The AAC has a screw that you can turn; it is facing the front of your car or at the right of the right component on the above diagram. Turning the screw clockwise will lower idle and turning it anti-clockwise will increase idle. The basic functionality of this is that it overrides the system and leaves a small gap that air can go through. There is some conflicting instructions that to change the idle you have to unplug the throttle position sensor and/or disconnect the brown connection but you'll see what I did later on. IACV (Idle control valve) I'm not overly knowledegable about this component as I don't actually have this on my car. A lot of people remove this and/or block the piping and rely on tuning to do its job. It is located very much under the air plenum above the oil filter. Basically, this component will allow more air into the system depending upon how cold the water temperature is. As the water temperature rises, the valve will gradually shut until this device is no longer used. A couple of problems that I can think of is that if this is faulty and it doesn't close, there would be an air leak and if it doesn't open it would mean there would be some lean behaviour on startup if not corrected by the ECU.] The nissan skyline manual shows how to diagnose this if it's faulty but it is a real pain to get to. My experience I am fairly novice with cars but I'm learning more and more as I tinker around with my overly specced car that I bought on a whim one day because I felt my impreza wasn't powerful enough! So, I've had major problems with my idle; either hot or cold, it would start to drop below 800rpm and I'd have to apply the throttle to get it to stop it from stalling. I tried modifying the fuel ratios, the ignition timing and the idle settings on the powerfc using datalogit to no avail. After doing some research, I decided that I needed to take off the AAC and give it a clean to see if that would work. Required: - Size 10 socket wrench will do, it's not that tricky to get to like some people say; I had an ordinary sized socket wrench and managed to get to all 4 bolts easily AAC gasket or you can make one yourself using a stencil and some gasket material (You could re-use but I decided against it) RTV sealant Carb cleaner Phillips screw driver Toothbrush/pipe cleaner or some way of cleaning For a picture of the gasket, see below; it's quite tricky to find it and I had to get it from America and nearly ordered the RB25 one; I live in the UK. Instructions for removal: - Firstly, remove anything on the left side of the engine bay that will restrict you from getting just underneath the intake plenum; I had to remove my catch tank and my fuel pressure regulator to get to this but this took a few minutes as I'm always removing these to clean up on my overly obsessive cleaning schedule of my car. Remove the brown wire socket which is clipped on fairly trivially Use the socket wrench to undo each of the bolts; mine were so easy to remove that once I'd loosened each bolt, I could use my finger to unscrew which was a lot easier than worrying about dropping the bolts down into the endless pit inside the engine bay. Simply pull at the AAC gently, trying to rescue the gasket if you want to reuse; I found that it was just stuck to the AAC and was easy to peal off. Remove the air tube that connects to the left hand side of the AAC You should now be able to take the AAC out of the engine bay and take it to your working area ready to be cleaned. Half way through cleaning, I decided I was going to take some pictures but unfortunately I left my iPad at home so I had to use my laptop to take the photos. It was also very cold today and my fingers didn't like the combination of carb cleaner and freezing weather. Hard to believe they're actually normal looking when I'm in the nice warm area typing on my computer! The AAC is comprised of two parts; I call them the electrical component. They are joined together with two small phillips head screws and come apart quite easily. Be careful as there is a little rubber seal that sits between them: - and the air control component.. see below Mine was fairly dirty and had some black grimey gunk all around the spring and screw. I immediately smiled and was quite excited at the prospect that my lovely car was potentially going to stop idling badly! I got a spare toothbrush and pipe cleaner and used carb cleaner spray to basically rinse the whole thing out and clean the spring and screw out. This is a lot cleaner than it was but what you can see is two holes in the center of the air component. The hole on the left is the spring that is controlled by the electrical component and the hole on the right is the screw that you can manually screw with a phillips head screw driver. Make sure these are both clean before putting back together. I actually adjusted the manual screw so that there was a tiny gap as I've read that it needs to be open a slight bit. This could be wrong so this may need to be adjusted to meet your idle speed requirement. I also gave the electrical component a cleaning but only on the side where it connects to the air component. : - Once I had cleaned the air component, I scrubbed the port underneath the intake plenum with carb cleaner as there was a tiny bit of grime and old sealant. I then screwed the components back together to form the AAC again and then took my nice new gasket out of the packaging: - Applying the sealant Apply a very thin layer of RTV sealant on the AAC firstly by adding a small line, roughly 2mm thick in small sections and using my thumb to spread it out until the flat edge is completely covered. Place the gasket onto the AAC; it will only go one way so that the layout matches. If it doesn't match, you've probably bought the wrong gasket. It's quite easy to do as there is a lot of posts containing the RB25 part number and so on. Repeat step 1 but this time on the gasket on the side that will be attached back to the port The tricky part is now getting the AAC back on without fudging the sealant and getting into a right mess. I did this the first time but make sure that if you mess it up, you ensure the sealant is properly applied as if it is not, there could be an air leak. I found that with the sealant I used, the AAC actually stuck to the port without the bolts which was nice as it gave me the opportunity to let go of it to push each of the bolts in and hand tighten them before I used the wrench to tighten them. Remember to re-attach the pipe and brown connection which, for me, was quite easy. I thought it was going to be an annoyance trying to get them back on afterwards but they went on surprisingly easy. PowerFC idle learning (only for power fc) I did not adjust the screw on the ECU as I feel this is something that shouldn't really be messed with and I didn't change the throttle position screw. The only screw I set up was the one on the AAC which is shown above. I use datalogit but there are posts that let you know how to do this with the hand controller. Switch the ignition on and turn off any of the blowers/air con/lights etc. Reset the powerfc back to defaults but ensure that you've saved your map and can reload it with your preferred settings. Switch the ignition on and leave the car to idle for 10 minutes to learn idle at no load After those 10 minutes turn on the lights and the air blower for 10 minutes to learn idle at electrical load After those 10 minutes turn on the air conditioning for 10 minutes to learn idle at air con load The 30 minute period is required by power fc and should be performed, just for peace of mind after doing this as it can change quite a lot of things if the AAC was dirty. Hopefully this fixes your hunting idle; it fixed mine. Sorry for the lack of pictures and quality, as well as the inexperience that is obvious in this post. Just figured it would be nice to try and help people who have this issue as it can really be annoying stalling at junctions through no fault of your own!

- 1x Pair of R or S Chassis Calipers; not sure (Will chuck in a set of brand new pads for free) - $150 - R32 Clear indicator (Passenger Side) - $30 - Midnight Mods Solid Subrame Bushes - $80 - Blow Off Valve that came off my RB25 - $20 - Drivers Side Buddyclub Side mounted seat rail for R Chassis. Came out of my R32 but i think will fit some others (double check this) - $150 - RB20/25 IACV/AAC Valve. In perfect working order - $75 - Passenger side tail light surround for R32. Perfect - $35 - R32 Front REO - $30 Pickup from Canterbury Area MSG me as I don't frequent the forum often. 0417 66TWO 55FOUR

Rb26 IACV and AAC ÀHi everybody, new to this. Need some help. Recently had my rb26 rebuilt, running single turbo and ITBs. Putting the inlet side back together. Not sure what lines I can delete around the IACV and AAC. I would like to delete the IACV and AAC all together but from what i gather its better to keep. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Hey guys, I made up an adaptor plate kit for my personal car and had a few extras cut at the same time, limited supply Flange/Adaptor kit to attach an R34 NEO AACV Idle air/water temp control unit to an R33 intake/inlet manifold/plenum Necessary when installing the majority of after-market RB25 manifolds ie GReddy/freddy onto a NEO to retain factory idle control Kit comes with bolts and gaskets for both sides (one of which passes over two of the bolt heads, these spots need to be sealed with liquid gasket) $60 posted Australia wide Cheers

Hey guys, have a r32 fender in 4 door silver met blue, not in best condition (dints/warped alittle etc) would really only be good for a drift car or maybe a panel beater could straighten it out $20 R32 AAC valve, good working order (bought another one thinking it could be my issue but turns out there was nothing wrong with the first one) $50 can post for $15 Also have a drivers side 4 door front door, complete with glass, loom but no mirror or interior trim $50 in alright nick Pick up from banora point NSW can deliver anywhere on the gold coast for $15