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Showing results for tags 'aircon'.
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climate control R34 Climate Control Unit
Murfyy posted a topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Had an issue for a while where my climate control unit would not not show any lights, the buttons wouldn’t work, obviously the aircon and heating didn’t work. The only thing that showed on the unit was the clock which constantly counts up and repeats constantly when powered on. I have taken it to an auto elec who had a look and he bought in a car aircon mechanic/specialist to check it out. Neither of them found any issues with fuses or the system itself. Also took the unit to another auto elec/electrician who took it apart and tested it all and it worked fine. The lights lit up and all. so far I’ve double checked all the fuses, which are all good. The unit itself has been tested and works (however not when plugged into my car). No idea how to go about this/fix it. Any advice/tips/people to contact would be great thanks! -
Some of the buttons work, some don't. I can control the temperature, but can't seem to change the fan speed or use the off button. AMB doesn't work and neither does defrost. Should I replace the unit or does this sound like a wiring/sensor issue?
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Hello, Recently I have been having an issue with my r34 gt where as soon as accessories are turned on and car is started I can hear an electronic buzz that is extremely high pitched. It seemed to be coming from the aircon vent next to the hazard button so I took out the aircon fuse whilst the car was running and the sound stopped. A very strange problem but the noise is driving me crazy does anyone have a solution to my problem? Thank you
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Hi all. I have a 98 r34 gtt. The aircon is not turning on at all. The buttons seems to be not responding. Previously there was a light on the button but still not working, and now the light has gone as well and not turning on. Any suggestions ? Cheers
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Hi guys, I just purchased a modified R32 GTR and have a few little things to fix on it. Aircon isn't working and ambient temp reads -30 degrees on the digital display so the outside temp/ambient temp sensor is not working or disconnected. When running through diagnostics I also get a fault code for that sensor (21 from memory) From my research this sensor was originally located on the stock thermo fan under the bonnet latch. This car has aftermarket rad, thermo fan and big front mount. For the life of me I cant find the temp sensor. Maybe its been relocated or removed. How do I trick the climate control system into thinking its +30 degrees out side. Can I splice a resistor into the harness behind the dash? If so how? Which wires? Thanks heaps, Luke
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Have for sale aircon ducting for an R32 GTR. All ducting from under the carpet and behind the dash is included, except the one duct that goes to the drivers side round vent. $100 plus postage. Located in Wollongong NSW
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A/c not getting cold? ill come to you, fully licensed. PM for pricing
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The aircon is working but was set at max for the blower and is not cold needs gas i think. Cant control on off and blower speed since panel is not functioning. Can it be replaced? Repaired? Thanks guys. Im in perth btw in case you know good electricians or shops. TIA. -
can anybody help how this can be fixed? Fan is working when engine is turned on but no cold air just air coming out. Usually super hot air. Need to have the panel working. Anyone knows where? How? In perth..
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My aircon compressor is almost dead and needs to be replaced soon. My mate has a rb25de aircon compressor that came off a stagea. And im wondering if the rb25de air con compressor will bolt right up to my rb20det aircon bracket. I know the aircon lines will not bolt up. I will have to make custom lines for this. I would like to use a rb25 aircon compressor as it uses r134 gas opposed to the r12 the rb20. i know few shops can do a convertion but as i know the r134 operates at a higher psi compared to the rb20 r12 and will likely stress out the old rb20 aircon compressor. If anybody has replaced their rb20 aircon compressor using a rb25 (r33 or r34 neo or stagea) kindly give me some help of information how to do this. Pictures if any would be of great help. Thanks in advance people!
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Make an offer if you need something Most parts are from a series 2 but should also fit series 1's Pickups from Mt.Gravatt Brisbane,i can drop them off locally or post... -Standard rearbar Has a few light scratches & scuffs but is otherwise in good condition Original stock red paint $200 ono These are all the aircon parts i have,not sure if they are from series 1 or 2 s14 as they were removed from a halfcut I will sell these parts seperately. -Heater core box $50 -Heater blower motor $50 -Evaporator unit $50 -Compressor pump $75 -AC line[compressor to evaporator] $25 -Complete set of stock suspension They have done 100,000 K's,condition unknown as they came with the car $150 ono -Nabco slave cylinder Was working fine when removed $30 ono -Stock toe arms In good condition $40 ono -Stock castor arms In good condition $40 ono -Ashtray $15 ono -
hey, my aircon pump has kacked it, and need a new one for my r34 GTR. i called up nissan, and as expected they want $1500 for one. so my question is, as i havn't had any luck so far finding a second hand r34 gtr compressor, can i buy a one off a 33 gtr for example? are they universal across the RB26 gtr's? -
.Vw polo 1997 4door *Low kilometers 130000kms * green in colour *Manual 5 speed *Airbags *Aircon (works great blows really cold great in summer) *power sunroof *Power windows *Power mirrors *Power steering *central locking *Interior in good condition *pioneer CD player , Sony speakers *4 brand new tyres * new clutch ( just installed last week with recipts) *new fuel pump *New spark plugs ,Oil , oil filter just serviced *New brake pads (rear) *8 months registration this is 1 of 2 polos i have owend recentley i sold a 99 model a few weeks ago this one is in better condition ,neat car , 8months rego , good daily comute car or great car for a learner driver , tank cost around $50-$60 to fill and gets around 450-500kms per tank. no mechanical issues to worry about at all body fairly straight test drives welcome ,selling due because i have a work ute now and needing to move house -
Hey guys need help i bought a r33 gtst 1994 about 6 months ago however the guy told me he removed the air-con, now i wan't to re-install it so i want to ask what are the equipment that i need to put it all back i'm going to put a link in and is this a whole complete air-con to put back in the gtst http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R33-GTST-RB25DET-Air-con-air-conditioning-kit-/271194060912?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f246cf870
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so i've had my car for about a year now, bought it without aircon and was happy with it but i think i'll be keeping it for a while to come and want to put the air con back in, i want to know whats involved in doing this, parts i need etc. the car currently has the climate control thing and everything on it works, except for the fact there is no actual aircon system in there
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Hi, I've been having all sorts of issues with my AC, tried having it regassed, tried replacing the dryer. I'm wondering if someone can recommend somewhere I can take it that can be trusted with a GTR (I've had problems getting the car back in worse state than when I take it sometimes). Somewhere around Artarmon Sydney would be good. Thanks for suggestions. Craig.
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R33 GTS-T Aircon Problems So just in time for a north queensland summer my aircon on my 1997 R33 GTS-T has decided to only blow hot air. Before this it would ONLY blow cold air when set to 18 degrees and turn to full heater when set to 19 or above, i believe this is a problem with the internal temp sensor or the sun load sensor (i ran the diagnostic test on the head unit) and have found the they may just need cleaning. However now there is absolutely no cold air at all and no discernible load put on the engine when the A/C is switched on as it always used to. I found the problem to possibly be that all the gas had leaked out of the compressor side hose, which filled the activation wire with oil/water. Although, as i am a cheap uni student, i was hoping it wasn't in need of a regassing so i decided to check the plug itself and found that even when the A/C signal and relay sensors are on (shown by the consult port from the ecu) the wire running into the compressor was only registering 0.3Volts (which is what it was showing even when off so i assume it is a background noise voltage or something) so im unsure whether it should be a positive voltage or if it should be earthed . I also know that somewhere there will be a low pressure sensor but as i could not see any more wires running to the compressor i assumed this would all be self contained. So my questions are: -Should there be a 12v signal or earth applied to the compressor to engage the clutch -is there any other wires that i have not seen running into the compressor -if i manually send a 12v/earth signal to the compressor will i cause any issues (just to check if the clutch is engaging and the problem is i am just out of gas) and then less importantly -are the internal temp sensors standardised as i can't seem to find a replacement and finally does anyone actually have a sun load sensor (from all i've seen in forums everyone seems to get this error) Thanks in advance Joe
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R33 air con pump and bracket Wtb: r33 aircon pump and bracket, not looking to pay much! Location; Fraser coast
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Aircon "fixed" but now broken I managed to find a replacement compressor for the one that self destructed and supplied that to a (currently) nameless respectable Auto Air conditioning specialist and after some mucking about (they had to delay 2 weeks until they had a hoist working!) they took the car in to fit it... They found 2 other issues, both of which seem reasonable (remove and clean TX valve and fit new filter drier) but when I picked the car up they mentioned that the blower fan had stopped working and I'd need to see an auto electrician or Nissan themselves... However as it was described to me it sounded like it only affected the cold air - they said cold was only coming out the drivers side vents. On the receipt it says "Note: Blower fan direction not working needs a scan and electrical repair." On the way home though I noticed that the only control that worked was fan speed. It wouldn't demist, or change any vents, and even setting the temp to 32C the drivers side still blew cold air at me. Even with AC turned off, the heater controls still didn't work. So I'm pretty annoyed and I will be phoning them in the morning as all those controls worked for the heater before I dropped the car off to them and they admitted they had disassembled the entire dash to get to the TX valve. I have attached a photo of the self check from the head unit... It seems to show an error 14 on one of the HVAC systems but not sure what that means. I also tried the AC slef test and while it beeps and all the lights come on, there's no action - no clicking, no blower, no nothing. While I am going to make this their problem (worked before they took it, broken when I got it back!) if it's a simple reset procedure I'll give that a go first. Any advice? (Oh, I noticed from the clock in the car they removed power to the car for 15 minutes) Cheers - N
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R32 GTR air con compressor rebuild? G'day, looking for recommendations for an air con rebuild for an R32 GTR. Asked for a leak test before finally getting a regas, turns out it's leaking from the compressor. The shop says it won't touch imports though because the parts are going to be hard to find. Now I'm looking for a place to help me out. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
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R33 Gtst - AC noises every ~30 secs Hello guys When I turn the AC on, every ~30 seconds I can hear a sound from the outside, Im not sure how its exactly like, but Id describe it with "fizzle" combined with a short engine stuttering like you know it from broken coils. Id also say, the intensity depends on the speed you drive; it doesnt seem to appear while standing with the and engines obviously running on the common 700/750 rpms We recently did the whole timing belt change, could this have something to do with it? Thanks a lot
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Hi all, A/C fuse keeps blowing. Several auto eleces have had a look and not been able to fix. Last one is know saying that the compressor is causing a short and needs to be replaced and partly because i dont feel like replacing it just to check he's right plus i cant actually find a second hand one, means im wondering if theres any way to know this is the actual cause and if theres any way it could be fixed without replacing. Bit more info; 10amp fuse blows nearly straight away, 20 amp lasts about 15-20 minutes. Clutch is engaging, everything is working fine when the fuse is still functional. Help please, i paid dollar bills ya'll to have this a/c installed (engine swap, had no ac originally) and havent had fully working ac for 2 years
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Hi All, Recently my A/C would only blow stinking hot air which was awfully uncomfortable to drive in but it's been too cold to have it off. It started off that it was sporadic but eventually got worse. After some soul searching I found out that the part is a the Air Mix/Blend actuator which controls how much fresh air vs heater air comes through the vents. Tools/Requirements: - Soldering Iron and Solder - Assorted Phillips head and flat head screw drivers - Vice to hold everything - Power supply to test the motor itself - Permanent marker to mark existing points - Sand paper Difficulty: - Low Time Required: - 1 Hour Optional: - Brand new OEM mix actuator - Used OEM working mix actuator 1) Start by testing the actuator using the diagnostics system - If you have error 26, the problem is most certainly the actuator http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426605-aircon-diagnostics-r33/ 2) Locate the actuator under the drivers side dash to the left 3) Remove cap holding the actuator rod in place, mark the rod for reference and pop the rod out of it's "seat" 4) Disconnect the wiring connector from the mix actuator 5) Remove the three securing screws shown below and take the actuator out of the car *over to the bench* 6) Mark some reference points on the arm for the actuator - This will make it easier to assemble again later 7) Unscrew the actuator off its mounting bracket 8) Remove the two screws that seal the housing 9) Using a flat head screwdriver gently pry the arm off the actuator 10) Separate the two clips that hold the housing together from the side and gently open the actuator case 11) Remove all of the little gears from the housing and set them aside somewhere they won't roll away 12) Remove the circuit board and motor from the housing to reveal the last large gear with contacts on it 13) Gently bend the contacts upwards to ensure they haven't been worn out and bent over time - Give the contacts a light sand at while you're at it 14) Clean the contact surface on the circuit board - I wasn't sure what sort of grease this was so I left a thin coat on the board anyway 15) Connect a power source to the motor terminals to ensure the motor still functions - If not see the options above or look at a replacement motor (from Jaycar or other electronics stores or eBay) 16) Take your soldering iron and melt the solder on the joints of the board - Take the time to add a bit more solder where necessary 17) If all went well work your way back from step 12 and test the actuator again
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Hey guys I need to know if everything for the aircon from the firewall forward in a gtst r32 fit into a r32 gtr? I've done research but found absolutely nothing Cheers fellas -
Hi All, My AC drain pipe was sitting against the dump pipe on my R33 after I put in a Hypergear turbo (ATR45SAT). I had it taken to JEM to get tuned but on the way home it started smoking so I bit the bullet and cut the drain pipe so I could get home without it smoking up and catching fire. I'm not sure what to do now because if I use the aircon its going to drain onto the dump pipe and steam, rust and more than likely crack. Has anyone come across this before? If so what did you do to fix it or get around it? Pictures below Thanks!
