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Alpine 12" Type S Subwoofer in Black Sealed Box Looking for: $125 Bought brand new in early 2011, well looked after. The speaker itself is in perfect condition, no signs of wear or tear. Has never been pushed hard, should make a great addition to any system. The box was in great condition until I took it out of my car and my cat decided it looked like a scratching post, so you can see in the pictures he managed to tear and lift some of the carpet a little bit, other than that the box is still in good condition. Approximate box dimensions: 430W x 430D x 340H Cadence Xa175.4 - 4 Channel Car Amplifier Looking for: $125 Bought brand new, online from the USA in early 2011. This has been a great amp which was powering 2 x 6" splits and the above sub in my old car. I was really happy with the combination and this amp performed really well. The fan in the amp started making a bit of noise not long before I sold my car, so I've popped it open and replaced the fan with a new one. However I don't have a car to fire it up with and check the new fan is running nice and quiet, so if you're interested feel free to come around and give it a test. 110W x 4 @ 4 ohm RMS, 175W x 4 @ 2 ohm RMS, 350W x 2 @ 4 ohm bridged RMS, 1400W Xenith Power Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40 kHz Minimum THD: <0.1%, S/N Ratio: >97dB, Damping Factor: >198 @ 100Hz, Channel Separation: >50dB More information on the amp can be found here: http://www.cadencesound.com/products/XaH175.4.html (please note that the bottom section of "H" improvements don't apply as this is the older Xa model) General Information Both items were bought brand new in 2011, they spent their whole life in my Subaru Outback. Unfortunately my Outback suffered massive engine failure so I sold it for parts last month. Due to the heavy nature of both items shipping is probably not going to be feasible. So both items are available to pickup from my house in Joondalup, Western Australia. If you do really want something posted, you can organise a courier. You're welcome to test both items if you come up to take a look at them.

Alpine 12" Type S Subwoofer in Black Sealed Box Looking for: $110 Bought brand new in early 2011, well looked after. The speaker itself is in perfect condition, no signs of wear or tear. Has never been pushed hard, should make a great addition to any system. The box was in great condition until I took it out of my car and my cat decided it looked like a scratching post, so you can see in the pictures he managed to tear and lift some of the carpet a little bit, other than that the box is still in good condition. Approximate box dimensions: 430W x 430D x 340H Cadence Xa175.4 - 4 Channel Car Amplifier Looking for: $110 Bought brand new, online from the USA in early 2011. This has been a great amp which was powering 2 x 6" splits and the above sub in my old car. I was really happy with the combination and this amp performed really well. The fan in the amp started making a bit of noise not long before I sold my car, so I've popped it open and replaced the fan with a new one. However I don't have a car to fire it up with and check the new fan is running nice and quiet, so if you're interested feel free to come around and give it a test. 110W x 4 @ 4 ohm RMS, 175W x 4 @ 2 ohm RMS, 350W x 2 @ 4 ohm bridged RMS, 1400W Xenith Power Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40 kHz Minimum THD: <0.1%, S/N Ratio: >97dB, Damping Factor: >198 @ 100Hz, Channel Separation: >50dB More information on the amp can be found here: http://www.cadencesound.com/products/XaH175.4.html (please note that the bottom section of "H" improvements don't apply as this is the older Xa model) General Information Both items were bought brand new in 2011, they spent their whole life in my Subaru Outback. Unfortunately my Outback suffered massive engine failure so I sold it for parts last month. Due to the heavy nature of both items shipping is probably not going to be feasible. So both items are available to pickup from my house in Joondalup, Western Australia. If you do really want something posted, you can organise a courier. You're welcome to test both items if you come up to take a look at them.

Hi All, I was bored on the weekend (actually let's say feeling productive), and I recently acquired this cheap amp for $20 and needed to mount it somewhere out of the way. Instead of mounting it under the seat like some, I decided to make use of the space between the fuel pump access point and the HICAS crap. Note: This only applies to R33 Coupes. I reused the stock fuse block bolt holes, one thing to notice, there's a tab on the rear side of the block that needs to be trimmed/snapped off in order to allow the plate to sit flush. Other than that, the photos should speak a thousand words. Final note, I've previously found that mounting the amp there, next to all the power lines, etc. 'may' cause some noise, but when I replaced it with better RCAs the noise went away. In the past, I've used 2x Z like alloy brackets I made using a flat piece of alloy. Too much drilling involved, this method requires you to only drill 1 or 2 holes. I went for 2x because of that odd looking bracket I found.

Hi guys, I have sold my car and have the following audio equipment for sale. All are less than a year old and fitted for less than 6 months. Have all boxes and instructions. All fitted to a R34 GTT and the molded sub box for the boot (driver side). German Maestro CS-6508 - 6.5" 50W splits Rockford Fosgate T400-4 - 4 Channel 400W Amplifier Rockford Fosgate Punch P2 P2D412 - 12" 250W Subwoofer R34 driver side molded sub box (reinforced fibreglass in black carpet) Good quality wiring Would prefer to sell all together. $600 ONO

For Sale: · Oz Audio Oz-Matrix Power series 12” subwoofer · Custom subwoofer box moulded for a skyline boot (R33). · Audison LRx4.1k amplifier (2x130W 4ohm + 2x140W 4ohm) · Audison LRx1.2k amplifier (2200W RMS Continuous @ 2ohms) · Custom floating amplifier racks to suit. RRP $7250 asking $3000 for the package I’m selling these together as they are all designed for each other. I’d rather not break up the sale. This set should line you up for an incredible sounding high end hi-fi. All items have been professionally installed and professionally un-installed from fhrxstudios. If there’s any warranty issues, not that I expect any, I’ve spoken to the retailer and he’s willing to work with you if you buy them. We can also work out how to get them installed in your car if you buy them. Any installation labour will be additional, but advice is free. Due to the size and weight of these items I’m not looking to post them anywhere. - I'm located in Sydney. Sub: Oz Audio Oz-Matrix Power Series 12” The Matrix Elite subwoofer represents Oz Audio’s obsession to create the ultimate in Subwoofer Technology Every part of this Subwoofer was Designed and Scrutinized to Ensure Maximum (SQ) Sound Quality and (SPL) Sound Pressure Levels. These subwoofers can take way more than their rated RMS rating of 700wrms, and have been built extremely well. Matched with the audison amps this will be pushing out big power at 20Hz. Features: 12" Dual 4 Ohm Matrix Elite Series Subwoofer Power Handling: Peak: 1400 watts RMS: 700 watts Impedance: Dual 4 ohm Triple layer glass fiber cone with nomex center UV treated foam woofer surround Power coated, die-cast aluminum basket UnderLap cone attatchment Cross-Vent inter cooling basket design Dual wound, 2-1/2" dual voice coils on a glass fiber former Triple stacked 150 oz. magnet structure Frequency response: 20-500 Hz Sensitivity: 85 dB RRP was $1750 - asking $600. Here's a copy of the RRP price list: Has some minor scratch damage (see image) to the cone, does not affect sound performance. Have reduced the price to reflect the cosmetic damage. I've found a review for this sub at: http://www.caraudio.com.au/forums/index.php/topic/75813-oz-audio-matrix-elite-12/ For more details please look at the manufactures spec sheet: OZ Matrix Elite 12 Specification.pdf (or ask google yourself) Sub box & amp racks: Originally $2000+ asking ($600) Custom Sub Enclosure for Skyline (moulded to GTR R33 - may fit other models but not 100% sure) Custom wood + fibreglass box. Acoustically designed and tested to match the sub. Can be Installed and remove without modifying the car – Uses spare tyre mount. The box has suffered some cosmetic damage due to some mechanic neglecting to screw the amp rack back in. This is easily fixed. The reason I haven’t done so yet, is I think it’s better if it’s customised for your car. It was originally sanded painted and glossed. This is a very laborious and expensive process and it also scratches easy. The latest vinyl wrap wrap technology can have it coloured in any colour and texture from gloss white or crazy yellows to a carbon fibre weave black and anything in between. This process costs a few hundred and can be done to match exactly what fits best in your car. (added for illustration only its not part of the sale) Here's what you can expect from a good vinyl wrap. As this box was part of the package it’s hard to put a specific price on it. The amp racks, made of aircraft grade aluminium are welded together so they can handle anything you can throw at the car from ripple strips on the track to …. Parramatta road? Equipped with illuminated perspex trays which just "float" completely hide the frame. I've added the construction photos so you can see whats under the paint. This shows how the sub box fits into the spare tire recess (The foil was laid before any fiberglass was done). Audison LRx4.1k (2x130W 4ohm + 2x140W 4ohm) RRP: $1700 asking $1100 I used this to drive the front and rear speakers which is could do with ease. 2x130W 4ohm + 2x140W 4ohm in a car is loud enough to annoy the neighbours only this amp will do it whist maintaining sound quality. It can be configured for higher power needs @ 2ohms 2x200W (front) + 1x700W RMS (sub). These are currently being retailed in a number of stores. For manuals please refer to: http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=manuals (Apologies for the links, I didn't attach them as they are 7MB) Audison LRx1.2k (2000W single channel) RRP: $1800 asking $1000 This amp is crazy powerful. It’s able to drive a continuous 3000W RMS at 1 ohm or 2200W at 2 ohms. This amps frequency response is 15-500Hz. Power Output @ 4 ohms 1300 W x 1 (4Ω) Power Output @ 2 ohms 2200 W x 1 (2Ω) Power Output @ 1 ohm 3000 W x 1 (1Ω) This amp is matched to drive the matrix power sub @ 4 ohms. Here's the spec sheet: Manuals are on the audison website. Please do some searches, these are genuine items, audiophile quality with serious power. While there are some fake rip offs out there are all legit and were purchased and installed through fhrxstudios who do high end installs. If your interested please PM me or my mobile is 0410 57 22 96. Thanks for reading, Craig. ps. If the links in this post offend any admin, please email me and I'll remove them, I tried to be as self contained as possible but the fact they are external helps with credibility of some unusual stock.

Hey guys i wanna sell my amp asap due to upgrade. it's a Response Precision AA0426. It's 4x100watt 760watt rms bridged. Had it for a while, pumps my twin comp 1000watt each subs. I want it gone asap located in Thomastown, Melbourne. Hit me up with a text on 0413323385. I'm selling it for $150 ONO. THATS ALREADY CHEAP AS SHIT, ILL TAKE ANY OFFER CLOSE TO IT I WANT IT GONE.

FS: [Syd] - Front Oil Cooler Bracket for 19row 235mm Core & Factory OEM Airbox & Snorkel & Audio Gear Happy Lunar New Year! And I need money for rebuild, so selling random nick nacks around the house. R33 GTS-t Stock Airbox & Snorkel + free filter of some sort - $50 Custom oil cooler bracket, uses OEM auto cooler bracket for 19 Row by 235mm matrix core (Mocal or similar) now black - $50 Cadence XaH400.1 400w RMS Monoblock, stand & remote included $100 Cadence Slim 8" Enclosure Subwoofer $50 Kicker DXA125.2 2 Channel Amplifier & Kicker RCAs, Kicker Fuse/wiring $50 Location: Canley Vale, NSW 2166

Few things to sell After the sale of my r33 Ive got a few things to sell and thought Id put it up here before I go to ebay etc. Light up R33 rear garnish $200 - R33 rear garnish from a series 1 that has been painted white but left the "Skyline" clear and put a red led strip behind it. Fiberglass 12" subwoofer enclosures $200 each or both $300 - I have both right and left side, I tried to put some Pleather on them but did not stick so they will need carpeting 12" cobalt subwoofers x 2 $120 each or $180 for 2 Orion amp for the subs with remote gain $225 Local pick up in Brisbane, Im in Upper Kedron but happy to bring the stuff into the city. Will do a deal for the whole lot $850 Please email me [email protected] or text 0416627645. I can take some pictures if anyone wants them but we all know what this stuff looks like

I've been having trouble with intermittent and broken power windows on the R32. Using the information from https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291360-power-window-stuck-electric-window/?do=findComment&comment=4878899 I found that: most of the problems were resolved by cleaning the switches, the last issue was fixed by re-soldering the relay in the "amplifier". Also the drivers side switch can be opened and fixed too. So, the drivers switch internals; As you can see it has the same problem as the passenger switch shown in the post linked above. That post says "10) STOP! dont try to pry apart the circuit board any further.. as you will break it.. if you look at this picture you can see that due to this whole assembly being screwed down THEN soldered in the nissan factory.. its not possible to remove this, so i just sprayed the cleaner as much as possible inside and re-assembeled everything, i suppose if it got really broken in there you could cut the circuit board to remove those 2 tiny little screws you see in the pic and get in there" I eventually managed to get the assembly apart by removing the screws (the circuit board untouched) then flexing the black plastic. However there was some damage; Perhaps you will have better luck. Anyway that break is not bad enough to cause issues and since the swtich was not usable anyway i figured i had nothing to loose. So after clean up; And, similar to what i found on the passenger side, the switch contacts were badly pitted; So i reversed the orientation of these pieces before reinstalling them, hoping that may help them last a little longer. Now putting the pieces in place; And then carefully lowering the cap back onto the switch, making sure the switch lever points sit in the valleys before pushing it together. The tabs click into place and i left the screws out as the switch is very solidly mounted without them, and they would be very difficult to get back in. After all that, I still had intermittent operation of down on the drivers side window. Up always worked, and up and down always worked on the passenger side. I found that the issue was due to dry joints on the surface mounted relay in what Nissan calls the "power window amplifier". This is a black box mounted under the door trim, occupying the space under the elbow rest/shelf/whatever that's called. Its attached by a metal bracket with two screws into the door shell. To get inside the box, I put some sandpaper on a flat surface then wore away one long edge and the short edge opposite the plug end. The plug end is not bonded to the cap in that end, so now we have three sides of the box that are "free" and can then flex the side open. Sorry - should have taken photos. Once open there is a single circuit board with two surface mounted relays (that is, the relays are soldered directly onto the board). I noticed that two of the joints appeared to have a little carbon around them. From the service manual, the amplifier pin out is; To operate the relays, apply +12v to pin 4, then connect ground to 1 and 2 to drive the relays. The intermittent operation occurred on the relay with the carboned up joints, and those joints didn't look like they'd been soldered well (they should look concave). I applied heat to the solder joints to have the solder re-flow onto the relay pin and board run. Re-checked them by applying voltage and they were now working well. If you want to multimeter test the drivers side switch, facing the switch and labelling pins as Drivers window; 1 & 2 - open circuit, connected on UP and AUTO UP 1 & 3 - open circuit, connected on DOWN and AUTO DOWN 1 & 4 - open circuit, connected on AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN Passenger window; 1 & 7 - connected, open circuit on UP and DOWN 7 & 9 - connected, open circuit on UP 1 & 9 - connected, open circuit on DOWN