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Showing results for tags 'battery'.
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Hey I’m currently doing a car audio install in a 2018 Kia cerato YD and I need some recommendations on that to do I’ve done some installations before but none with a dual battery set up I’m planning on using a 200-250a alternator and a slimline 170AH AGM in the back I’ve heard some people say just use a isolator whilst someone from a car audio shop says to use a regulator or Dc-dc charger I’ve looked everywhere for a reg or dc-dc that is 200-250a to keep up with the power draw from the 2-3kw monoblock I’m planning on getting i already own the battery and the sub but no idea what to do after the advice that if I don’t use a dc-dc or reg my battery might get too much charge and go short circuit and act like a welder so no idea now what to do idk if I’m allowed to post links I’m new here link to the alternator: https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=14962-250-HD1-1 theres also a stinger alternator that’s a 220a but I don’t have a link it would be custom made Cheers Rick -
Hi everyone, really hoping someone can help me with an issue ive been having! Ive been battling this for a while not with my 2001 300GT (VQ300DD). I have a constant current draw on my battery which drains it if I leave the terminals connected for a more than a few days, battery seems fine if I just unplug it whenever im not using it I disconnected negative terminal and measured current draw across the battery with everything off and it is ~400mA. I understand this should be closer to ~50mA. I trawled the internet for wiring diagrams and the only one I could find was a Russian version, ive attached a screenshot below and labelled what I think are relevant sections. I pulled fuses and discovered the issue with the 15A fuse that controls quite a few components.. From the fuse I went to the relay labelled 1 located in the IPDM cluster and put a jumper across coil terminals first and then relay terms. I discovered that the fault was on the relay circuit and not the coil circuit, this lead me to believe that the issue could lie with the components labelled as group 3 below. Im realising now that group 2 is off this circuit as well which I haven't checked.. Group 3 consists of MAF sensor, camshaft position sensors and crank shaft sensor. I pulled all the wire harnesses on these but did not see any change in current draw so concluded these to not be the issue. I then unplugged the ECCS labelled 4 and the current dropped to ~130mA From here Im not too sure how to proceed, does this mean my ECU is bad or could it be any other device connected to the ECU?? Im reluctant to buy a replacement ECU before being certain I know where the fault lies.. Im also curious as the current draw is still slightly higher than expected.. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! -
Hi SAU, Been having issues with my R33 GT-R. Battery warning light comes on at random times. Recently (1.5 months ago) had new alternator fitted, and new battery fitted (2 months ago). Car is used once a week and is always hooked up to a trickle charger. Between the time I had the new alternator fitted and today, car was running perfect, i.e no warning lights. Was at a stop light and decided to give it a 1st gear pull. What ensued was the battery warning light turning on and my tune getting messed up (AFRs reaching 15.9 with no throttle input, misfiring etc). Kept cruising for a bit, then decided to pullover and shut car off. Once I got going again warning light was gone, only for it to come back after a couple of hundred meters of driving. It should also be noted this is at night, with lights, and radio on only. I noticed that the warning light would turn off if I revved the car up aggressively (5000rpm+), at a stand still. Once revs dropped, light comes back on. However revving it up whilst moving would do nothing. Also when driving on bumpy parts of road, light flicks on and off, something must be loose right? I checked on the front and rear fuse boxes and everything seems to be plugged in. The high beams also struggle. The right side high beam comes on immediately while the left one has a little stroke before fully turning on. Oh and battery terminals are on nice and tight. Any ideas? I don't run any gear that would have heavy battery draw, and I get the car worked on by a reputable mechanic. In saying that, would it be possible for the alternator or battery to be malfunctioning this early in their lifespans? The car has traveled roughly 1000km+ since the new alternator was installed, no issues at all during that time. I will say though, the battery voltage while driving has never exceeded 13 volts, usually 12.x (with this new alternator). I think 14.x+ is the norm. Before I got this new alternator the voltage reading was around 10 to 11. When I got home I hooked up the trickle charger and it took a while for the light to go green (charged/maintaining). Usually after a drive, short or long, the red light on the trickle charger only lasts for less than 10secs, sometimes it goes green straight away. But today it took considerably longer than usual to go green, indicating the battery was not charging(?). Any and all help appreciated guys and gals, will have a chat to mechanic on Monday, however I thought I'd see if I could get quick help and fix straight away. -
Not Skyline related, but interesting, and could one day have a big impact on electric cars and power tools etc. And given the $$$$ involved for who ever finds the next big thing, I'm betting this will be refined and marketed asap. But like all inventions, we will not hold our breath!!! Honda still have to sell off all their mechanical cars first? https://www.msn.com/en-au/news/motoring/honda-develops-new-fluoride-ion-battery-with-nasa/ar-BBQR796?ocid=spartandhp
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Hi guys, I saw a second hand hybrid Q50 that was a 2013 model. It got me wondering, whats the deal with the batteries in these things now that they are 5 years old? Do they still work OK just hold less charge / use more petrol? How does it all work? Thanks!
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Noticed my battery earth cable starting to corrode or something, not sure why. See pic What would cause this? I removed the oe cable because it didnt go tight enough around the terminal a few months ago with a cable from supercheap, dont recall the oe cable doing this. Battery's a Optima maybe 2 yrs old, i believe is healthy. Any helps will be appreciated
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After searching these forums (and others) I've become confused about the recommended battery size. The Century NS60LS has been recommended (430CCA, 47Ah.) Length 234mm, Width 129mm, Height 201mm. However, in the G35 / 350z forums, they recommend 'Group 35' batteries, such as: Optima d35 (650CCA, 48Ah.) Length 238mm, Width 173mm, Height 199mm. The 5cm difference in length is significant, as the battery won't fit into the holder correctly. What is the recommended dimensions for the battery in an '03 coupe? -
Hey guys, up for sale are: SAMSUNG GALAXY SIII FOR SALE ALL BUTTONS RESPOND JUST NEED NEW SCREEN IPHONE 4 NEEDS NEW BATTERY, SCREEN IS CHIPPED BUT STILL FULLY FUNCTIONAL Samsung was only used for about 4 months before it cracked and we upraded. LOCATED IN S.E MELBOURNE PRICE: OFFER call or text me on 0402268872 or email me at [email protected] -Alan -
As new, used only a couple of times paid $249 for it last december but sold boat now so no longer needed. This is the best all round battery charger for car/boat batteries and suits even AGM batteries which require higher input voltages to recharge. Selling for $160. Pickup from Box Hill South, Vic or shipped oz wide for $15 Cheers Dee email me at [email protected] or call on 0422203458 -
Hi guys, first post here, I'm usually an Alfa Romeo car guy but I've made up a small batch of Magnetic Blue Battery Triangles, They are perfect for track days! REGULAR BLUE ∆ $5.99 CUSTOM CARBON PATTERN ∆ $9.99 Weather resistant 0.6mm Magnetic Rubber material Competition approved size of 150mm Won't Damage Paint Easy to remove and apply The Flags on the Custom Carbon styled blue triangles look really good on the car in my opinion, German ones for people with Porsches, Italian ones for the Alfa enthusiast, and of course, Japanese ones for the Skyline fanatic Here are some photos of the Italian Blue Triangle on my GTV6 I've only made a small batch, and I've tried to keep the price as low as possible (but unless i did this on a mass scale it's near impossible) If you're keen, Shoot me a PM with your name, address and order and I will send you my bank details and an invoice! Regular Blue ∆ $5.99 Custom Carbon Standard/German/Italian/French/Japanese/English ∆ $9.99 Thanks! Kirby.
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Hey boys! Im looking for some help getting a wire from under the hood to inside the car. Im wanting to do an amp install and everything else I have planned for and will be a breeze. However I cannot find an opening anywhere. I found a little rubber opening where the wire to open the hood leads however I couldnt find where it leads under the hood. Any help? I'm running a '94 GTR R32. Cheers guys.
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Hi, Needing a new Battery for my car and noticed that the original R34 GTR battery from Japan is still in the rear battery section, I have looked around at Autobahn, Super cheap for alternate batteries to no avail as they are either too High or terminals are too big.. The current battery measurements are Height 168mm, Width 130 mm and Length 186mm.. I've tried to put a normal battery in there which I ended changing the bracket as it was too short but then noticed the terminal cable lengths to be quite short due to the height of the new battery which was around 220mm.. :-( Is there something other R34 GTR owners have put in as a straight plug-n-play solution or...? Cheers,
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I have a brand new optima D51R yellow top battery for sale. Bought it for my R33 but have just sold the car and it won't fit in my new car. It's still wrapped in plastic. Paid $300, i,m after $250. Located in Wollongong, NSW. Ph: 0418 626 519 Thanks Dave -
Hey guys, need help with how to go about moving the battery to the boot in my r31. I've read a lot of information On how to go about it, but I am still unsure. I know all the battery has to be in a secured box and vented (which I've already done), but I'm more concerned with the wiring and what goes where. Would be great if anyone could show pictures step by step, as I can't find any specific DIYs on this topic. I also wish to put a fuse in the boot as a safety measure, but once again, lack the knowledge and direction with electrical matters such as these. help would be much appreciated.
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R32 GTR Optima batteries good morning all. i have done some searching regarding the topic, just looking for some details regarding replacing my R32 GTR battery with an Optima drycell yellow top. From what i have read the optima yellow top are the go when replacing batteries, luckily for me i can get them relatively cheap. i have narrowed it down to what i believe is the right size which is the 51-T1. their are two variants these relate to the terminals, type and configuration, can anyone direct me as to which is going to suit the gtr?
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What the heck is this? Does anyone actually know if this (see second pic for actual part ) serves a purpose? It's off the positive lead of the battery.
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R34 Auto Off headlights Hello, So today i modded my headlights to they turn off automatically when the key is removed from the car. I am doing this on my 1998 R34 25gt. It should be the same for the gtt at least, and somewhat similar for other models. This will make sure you cant leave your headlights on when you park only to return to a flat battery. (I've done this 3 times now) Tools: Soldering iron, Wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, Crimper (i just used my pliers) Supplies: Solder, 3 horn relays. (i used jaycar part SY4068) at least 12 connectors to put on the relay tab (you need 12, but the packs from jaycar come in 8 packs.) couple of meters of wire Heat shrink First you will have to remove the plastic surround that goes around the steering column. There are 3 screws underneath. undo these and pull down on the handle that adjusts the wheel height, with this done it should just pop off. once this is done you will need to remove the lower dash piece. On mine there is a screw on the left and a couple of bolts on the right next to the bonnet release. you should now be able to pull it off, making sure to disconnect any plugs that are on the panel. there will be a bundle of wire coming from just behind the wheel under the dash then back up under the dash, In mine it was already cut open so this is where i attached my relays. you will need to find the correct wires that control the head lights. In my case it was the RED/WHITE wire, RED/YELLOW wire and the RED/BLUE But you should check these are correct. Best way i found is to look on the back on the indicator stalk there are 2 plugs, one has about 12 connectors on it, the other has 4. The connector with 4 plugs should have the wires said above and a green/white one. (Again your mileage may vary) Where ever you decide to splice into these wires you might want to cut the wire and extend it about 10cm on each side of the cut so you have a bit more room to work with. I soldered my little extension on the cut wire and heat shrunk it up. With this done i crimped the connectors onto the end of my wire and connected these to pins 87 and 30 of each relay. Now to get some power to toggle the relays. you will need some that is only powered with the key in the ignition. I got mine from the 12v socket next to the shifter. Connect a length of wire to the pos and neg of this and run it to under that dash (There might be a better spot to get this from, but i couldn't think of anywhere) then you will have to split this between the 3 relays. you can do this how ever you want. it should be pretty straight forward. crimp your connectors onto these wires and plug them on the remaining relay plugs. When moving the key to ACC you should be able to head the relays clicking. if not check your getting 12V on the connectors and that they are plugged in to the correct pins. it should be pins 85 and 86. Check that the lights all turn on with the key in the ignition. remove the key and the lights should go off with that.
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Electrical Issue After Battery Relocation So I've relocated my battery and everything seemed fine key on engine off. Interior systems function with no issues. I attempted to move the car but after about 10 seconds of running my wipers started going crazy (not even switched on) and a cloud of smoke emitted from behind my radio into the cabin. To immediately rule out and prevent wasting anyone time this doesn't appear to be an issue between the battery and distribution block i.e. Short in the long power cable running from the trunk to the front of the car. But where the distribution begins and the power is distributed seems to be the cause. So this is the setup (see pic). I literally cut the three wires off the positive terminal, a 2 gauge, 8 gauge and a 16 gauge (approx) (see pic). The only difference is I cut out the 16 to 8 gauge connector that came from the terminal (see pic). Now this happens to also be the power to all the interior items and looking at the first picture the fuse that's blown. So in conclusion looking at the distribution block (pic 1) this is the only circuit of those three that blows causes my wipers to go crazy and burnt my radio up. Is there a resistor in that connector (see pic 3 again) or could this distribution block be crap? I'll take any and all suggestions please. -
when relocating battery what mm wire did you get? I am thinking of getting 40mm Second question is , would you run thenpositive and negative under frame or in cabin? Now considering i am relocating my battery, should i wait and run a positive and negative direct from battery to my new walbro or just run it now from front of the car? Finally how do you join the existing positive and negative in engine bay to the newly run wire
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V36 Battery & Brake Warning Light ON!! Hey guys, So, I was on my way to work this morning, then slowing down, my car kind of jerked/hesitated and then battery light came on. Then drove for a few seconds then saw the Brake light come on as well. I was doing a little bit of research and it says that the alternator might be on its way. Can anyone confirm? Also they've said that it might be grounding issue. How do I check if I have a bad alternator? Battery is only about a year old. Thanks in advance guys -
Relocating Battery to trunk R32
powerdbygarrett posted a topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Relocating Battery to trunk R32 I have searched and could not find exactly what I am looking for. I want to relocate my battery to the trunk, but I do not want to mount the battery on one of the sides, I was hoping to mount it in the center under the rear strut tower. Can anyone point me to a write up, and/or pictures of this? Thanks! -
Removing battery from my R33 Hey guys, I'm trying to remove the battery from the rear of my R33 and for the life of me I just can't - the stud that the nuts are screwed on are too long for me to stick anything in there and the screw itself is too pushed in for me to get in there comfortably. I just hate it how the battery is in the rear any ideas guys? Much appreciated. Cheers, Alex
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Hi, I have a problem with my +12 V battery supply that goes to my aircon and stereo on my R32. The stereo stopped working and going through the cables I found that I didn't get power from the battery, ie. not the ignition one, but pin E on the diagram below. Strangely, when I switched the iginition on I got some power but not 12V from that cable. As I couldn't find any other way to fix it, I wired up another permanent 12V connection and the stereo was sorted. www.installdr.com/harnesses/nissan-wiring.pdf But after I put everything back together and drove the car, I realised my aircon now has a memory problem, which means it goes back to default every time I restart the car. I assume the aircon was supplied by the same wire that feeds the stereo and keeps the memory alive. Now my question: Is this something obvious that is broken which someone has come across before, or does anyone know which pin on the aircon supplies power from the battery so I can also rewire that? I've been looking but haven't come across a pin out diagram for the aicron. Any help is much appreciated, Cheers, Chris -
Battery is leaking from the top The battery in my 34 is leaking from the top where you put water in it from. Yesterday I had to take the horn fuse out from the engine bay and this caused the battery light to turn on and my turbo timer was showing 15.3v . At the time I didn't know it was the horn fuse but I drove my car like that for half an hour to get home then when I searched google I found out it was cause of the horn fuse. When I checked the battery today I saw that the tray had lots of water and a lot had leaked onto the railing and caused white deposits. I took it out and wiped it down. Car still has power to everything and battery doesn't seem weak but you u think I f**ked the battery by driving it for half an hour on 15.3v?l?
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Battery acid / paint damage / Negative cable oxidised Obligitory I f***ed up and now i'm paying for it. A year back i went interstate for about 3.5 months and left my car in a mates back yard with a tarp over it. I'd left a lead acid battery connected thinking that i'd just jump start it when i got back. Came back and i had a big star shape of rust under the bonnet above the battery and further surface rust below the battery area. Wonderful. Fast forward a bit, change of address and saved some cash, and firstly, can't find a competent person that can actually tackle this engine bay damage properly, and neutralise whatever the hell it is on the paintwork. I am assuming it is battery acid/vapor damage but i have no idea what happened. I've paid a bloke 900$ in Dandenong (Vic) to crack at it and all his paint is just bubbling up and peeling off again. On their warranty card it says they don't cover rust and he doesn't want anything further to do with it particularly. I've put a brand new lead acid from repco in there and the thing worked for about two weeks and now it won't hold a charge at all. Alternator is giving me 14.4 when i jump it, fortunately i had the alternator reconditioned only 20,000 km's ago. I've noticed some oxidisation on that main negative lead thats soldered and screwed to the chassis but unsure if this can prevent a battery from charging. At the end of the day, i think i've got f**ked battery and it has been leaking down its back all over my engine bay again, no idea why, it's 5 weeks old. I plan to replace it with a dry battery if i can find one that fits. I'll note that on this R34 the battery compartment was really tight and i pulled out a white tray that used to be under the battery. Is it neccesary or no? I know for example my Falcon has its own plastic surround for cooling. This one On the R34 is just sitting on the chassis held with a clamp. Questions i suppose, recommend a type of dry battery thats correct for 34 Gtt? Can a bad negative connection prevent a battery from charging? Why do these lead acid batteries keep freaking bubbling over ( amplified sound system in car too much strain?) Know someone in vic that knows how to tackle rust/acid or an auto elec familiar with fault finding electrics in skylines. Thanks for your time. I'm aware i f***ed up. cheers
