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Showing results for tags 'battery'.
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Hi everyone, really hoping someone can help me with an issue ive been having! Ive been battling this for a while not with my 2001 300GT (VQ300DD). I have a constant current draw on my battery which drains it if I leave the terminals connected for a more than a few days, battery seems fine if I just unplug it whenever im not using it I disconnected negative terminal and measured current draw across the battery with everything off and it is ~400mA. I understand this should be closer to ~50mA. I trawled the internet for wiring diagrams and the only one I could find was a Russian version, ive attached a screenshot below and labelled what I think are relevant sections. I pulled fuses and discovered the issue with the 15A fuse that controls quite a few components.. From the fuse I went to the relay labelled 1 located in the IPDM cluster and put a jumper across coil terminals first and then relay terms. I discovered that the fault was on the relay circuit and not the coil circuit, this lead me to believe that the issue could lie with the components labelled as group 3 below. Im realising now that group 2 is off this circuit as well which I haven't checked.. Group 3 consists of MAF sensor, camshaft position sensors and crank shaft sensor. I pulled all the wire harnesses on these but did not see any change in current draw so concluded these to not be the issue. I then unplugged the ECCS labelled 4 and the current dropped to ~130mA From here Im not too sure how to proceed, does this mean my ECU is bad or could it be any other device connected to the ECU?? Im reluctant to buy a replacement ECU before being certain I know where the fault lies.. Im also curious as the current draw is still slightly higher than expected.. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! -
hey guys im a bit of a skyline/car noob so bare with me this afternoon i went to take my 33 out for a drive as i havent had the time in the last week and first off my battery was drained, which i guess was caused from the alarm system in it, maybe a light or door left open but thats not the problem, when i was trying to get it going i tried to jump start it down the drive way i didnt do it a whole lot or very far but just tried twice to get it going then afterwards just decided to start it using a different battery and then replaced mine back in to recharge, anyways when i went to put it in gear i noticed when i engaged the clutch it had a loud strange whine/whirr?? another person with me thinks its more of a grinding but i dont think so i let it sit for a while to charge the battery probably 30mins? (side note...heard rumors leaving skylines sitting in one spot for long periods is bad? is this the case as it did get pretty hot in there to the point it was making the ticks you get on a hot engine when turning it off) after it charged i took it for a drive to see if the noise would go away, if i was riding my clutch the noise wasnt there but if i had it fully engaged it was there, sometimes it would be loud sometimes barely noticeable.... does anybody know what this could be? the last time i drove it, it didnt have this noise but now all of a sudden it did after the battery went flat....
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Hi guys, first post here, I'm usually an Alfa Romeo car guy but I've made up a small batch of Magnetic Blue Battery Triangles, They are perfect for track days! REGULAR BLUE ∆ $5.99 CUSTOM CARBON PATTERN ∆ $9.99 Weather resistant 0.6mm Magnetic Rubber material Competition approved size of 150mm Won't Damage Paint Easy to remove and apply The Flags on the Custom Carbon styled blue triangles look really good on the car in my opinion, German ones for people with Porsches, Italian ones for the Alfa enthusiast, and of course, Japanese ones for the Skyline fanatic Here are some photos of the Italian Blue Triangle on my GTV6 I've only made a small batch, and I've tried to keep the price as low as possible (but unless i did this on a mass scale it's near impossible) If you're keen, Shoot me a PM with your name, address and order and I will send you my bank details and an invoice! Regular Blue ∆ $5.99 Custom Carbon Standard/German/Italian/French/Japanese/English ∆ $9.99 Thanks! Kirby.
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Hey guys, up for sale are: SAMSUNG GALAXY SIII FOR SALE ALL BUTTONS RESPOND JUST NEED NEW SCREEN IPHONE 4 NEEDS NEW BATTERY, SCREEN IS CHIPPED BUT STILL FULLY FUNCTIONAL Samsung was only used for about 4 months before it cracked and we upraded. LOCATED IN S.E MELBOURNE PRICE: OFFER call or text me on 0402268872 or email me at [email protected] -Alan -
After searching these forums (and others) I've become confused about the recommended battery size. The Century NS60LS has been recommended (430CCA, 47Ah.) Length 234mm, Width 129mm, Height 201mm. However, in the G35 / 350z forums, they recommend 'Group 35' batteries, such as: Optima d35 (650CCA, 48Ah.) Length 238mm, Width 173mm, Height 199mm. The 5cm difference in length is significant, as the battery won't fit into the holder correctly. What is the recommended dimensions for the battery in an '03 coupe? -
Hi, I have a problem with my +12 V battery supply that goes to my aircon and stereo on my R32. The stereo stopped working and going through the cables I found that I didn't get power from the battery, ie. not the ignition one, but pin E on the diagram below. Strangely, when I switched the iginition on I got some power but not 12V from that cable. As I couldn't find any other way to fix it, I wired up another permanent 12V connection and the stereo was sorted. www.installdr.com/harnesses/nissan-wiring.pdf But after I put everything back together and drove the car, I realised my aircon now has a memory problem, which means it goes back to default every time I restart the car. I assume the aircon was supplied by the same wire that feeds the stereo and keeps the memory alive. Now my question: Is this something obvious that is broken which someone has come across before, or does anyone know which pin on the aircon supplies power from the battery so I can also rewire that? I've been looking but haven't come across a pin out diagram for the aicron. Any help is much appreciated, Cheers, Chris -
Hey I’m currently doing a car audio install in a 2018 Kia cerato YD and I need some recommendations on that to do I’ve done some installations before but none with a dual battery set up I’m planning on using a 200-250a alternator and a slimline 170AH AGM in the back I’ve heard some people say just use a isolator whilst someone from a car audio shop says to use a regulator or Dc-dc charger I’ve looked everywhere for a reg or dc-dc that is 200-250a to keep up with the power draw from the 2-3kw monoblock I’m planning on getting i already own the battery and the sub but no idea what to do after the advice that if I don’t use a dc-dc or reg my battery might get too much charge and go short circuit and act like a welder so no idea now what to do idk if I’m allowed to post links I’m new here link to the alternator: https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=14962-250-HD1-1 theres also a stinger alternator that’s a 220a but I don’t have a link it would be custom made Cheers Rick -
Hey guys, I know the title doesn't make much sense but to keep it short I received my 1991 cefiro rb26 swapped and it had a Prius battery. I'm assuming this was so the dealer didn't have to swap terminals but the car would have random times where it didn't want to start. Prius battery CCA's are not in spec so I decided to change the battery to a 51RPLT. I used what the parts store had and the list of battery's wasn't available. I am under the impression that it shouldn't matter. However after I started it with this battery a dull knock had started. I drove it a short distance and it would go away with revs but come back at idle. I did notice the idle rpm is ~1100 before the battery change it was at ~900. Obviously there's alot to support the battery change as the issue. Would there be anything else that would cause this? Deeper information Engine was swapped 6k km ago. R32 26 stripped the oil pump so I'm pretty familiar with metal on metal noise. R33 26 is in now, has been good for the 6k kms with the other battery. Spark plugs, water pump, oil pump, hks timing belt, theremostat all changed with the r33 engine. Supposed to have around 40k km on it. No shavings in the oil, oil level good doesn't burn any, temps are always cool. We did have a stint with bad coil packs idk if the ones we swapped were good but our problem with miss fires did go away. It's had 3 oil changes only with oem filters. I was so worried about doing everything right seems I may have still not done enough. Pretty heartbreaking. Ecu appears to be a stock 26 ecu. Car does pop a flame every once in a while but I equated that to the aftermarket exhaust. I am gonna try and get the Prius battery again but idk if I can trust another RB if the bottom end is out. Just alittle too convenient that it came with the battery change. Gonna check spark plugs and ohm read coil packs and lastly a compression test if all else fails. Any ideas or trouble shooting I can do would help. -
Hey Guys, I've seen quite a few different ways to mount a battery in the trunk but a lot of them involved welding or drilling holes into the chassis itself so I did a little experiment to see if there was a method that was non permanent (at least the battery mounting part). I started by cutting out a piece of plywood using the trunk carpet as a stencil. Then I started making a box. Since I didn't have a welder I used two different methods. For one piece I cut out a piece of metal and bent it into a U shape to make the bottom and two of the sides. Then I cut out one side and created a few 90 degree brackets and riveted them to hold one side. The other side I wanted to see if it would be easier to just make another U and rivet that on. After the box was assembled the rest was pretty easy. I drilled holes from the box into the wood, through the carpet to where I wanted to mount it. I also put a layer of foam on the bottom of the wood and countersunk screws to keep the bottom as smooth as possible. Test fit the battery. (Note: I had to cut the wood in half to get the whole thing into the trunk.) Put a foam sheet at the bottom of the box to protect the bottom of the battery from the hardware sticking up. I'll probably revisit this to make the wood a little more sturdy but here is the end product. (The extra hole was from before I put the foam in, I thought I needed it to feed the wire through lol) Not my best work putting the box together. I'll definitely re make the box to make it more aesthetically pleasing, maybe paint it.
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Noticed my battery earth cable starting to corrode or something, not sure why. See pic What would cause this? I removed the oe cable because it didnt go tight enough around the terminal a few months ago with a cable from supercheap, dont recall the oe cable doing this. Battery's a Optima maybe 2 yrs old, i believe is healthy. Any helps will be appreciated
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Hi, Needing a new Battery for my car and noticed that the original R34 GTR battery from Japan is still in the rear battery section, I have looked around at Autobahn, Super cheap for alternate batteries to no avail as they are either too High or terminals are too big.. The current battery measurements are Height 168mm, Width 130 mm and Length 186mm.. I've tried to put a normal battery in there which I ended changing the bracket as it was too short but then noticed the terminal cable lengths to be quite short due to the height of the new battery which was around 220mm.. :-( Is there something other R34 GTR owners have put in as a straight plug-n-play solution or...? Cheers,
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Hey boys! Im looking for some help getting a wire from under the hood to inside the car. Im wanting to do an amp install and everything else I have planned for and will be a breeze. However I cannot find an opening anywhere. I found a little rubber opening where the wire to open the hood leads however I couldnt find where it leads under the hood. Any help? I'm running a '94 GTR R32. Cheers guys.
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I have a brand new optima D51R yellow top battery for sale. Bought it for my R33 but have just sold the car and it won't fit in my new car. It's still wrapped in plastic. Paid $300, i,m after $250. Located in Wollongong, NSW. Ph: 0418 626 519 Thanks Dave -
As new, used only a couple of times paid $249 for it last december but sold boat now so no longer needed. This is the best all round battery charger for car/boat batteries and suits even AGM batteries which require higher input voltages to recharge. Selling for $160. Pickup from Box Hill South, Vic or shipped oz wide for $15 Cheers Dee email me at [email protected] or call on 0422203458 -
R32 GTR Optima batteries good morning all. i have done some searching regarding the topic, just looking for some details regarding replacing my R32 GTR battery with an Optima drycell yellow top. From what i have read the optima yellow top are the go when replacing batteries, luckily for me i can get them relatively cheap. i have narrowed it down to what i believe is the right size which is the 51-T1. their are two variants these relate to the terminals, type and configuration, can anyone direct me as to which is going to suit the gtr?
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Relocating Battery to trunk R32
powerdbygarrett posted a topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Relocating Battery to trunk R32 I have searched and could not find exactly what I am looking for. I want to relocate my battery to the trunk, but I do not want to mount the battery on one of the sides, I was hoping to mount it in the center under the rear strut tower. Can anyone point me to a write up, and/or pictures of this? Thanks! -
V36 Battery & Brake Warning Light ON!! Hey guys, So, I was on my way to work this morning, then slowing down, my car kind of jerked/hesitated and then battery light came on. Then drove for a few seconds then saw the Brake light come on as well. I was doing a little bit of research and it says that the alternator might be on its way. Can anyone confirm? Also they've said that it might be grounding issue. How do I check if I have a bad alternator? Battery is only about a year old. Thanks in advance guys -
R34 Auto Off headlights Hello, So today i modded my headlights to they turn off automatically when the key is removed from the car. I am doing this on my 1998 R34 25gt. It should be the same for the gtt at least, and somewhat similar for other models. This will make sure you cant leave your headlights on when you park only to return to a flat battery. (I've done this 3 times now) Tools: Soldering iron, Wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, Crimper (i just used my pliers) Supplies: Solder, 3 horn relays. (i used jaycar part SY4068) at least 12 connectors to put on the relay tab (you need 12, but the packs from jaycar come in 8 packs.) couple of meters of wire Heat shrink First you will have to remove the plastic surround that goes around the steering column. There are 3 screws underneath. undo these and pull down on the handle that adjusts the wheel height, with this done it should just pop off. once this is done you will need to remove the lower dash piece. On mine there is a screw on the left and a couple of bolts on the right next to the bonnet release. you should now be able to pull it off, making sure to disconnect any plugs that are on the panel. there will be a bundle of wire coming from just behind the wheel under the dash then back up under the dash, In mine it was already cut open so this is where i attached my relays. you will need to find the correct wires that control the head lights. In my case it was the RED/WHITE wire, RED/YELLOW wire and the RED/BLUE But you should check these are correct. Best way i found is to look on the back on the indicator stalk there are 2 plugs, one has about 12 connectors on it, the other has 4. The connector with 4 plugs should have the wires said above and a green/white one. (Again your mileage may vary) Where ever you decide to splice into these wires you might want to cut the wire and extend it about 10cm on each side of the cut so you have a bit more room to work with. I soldered my little extension on the cut wire and heat shrunk it up. With this done i crimped the connectors onto the end of my wire and connected these to pins 87 and 30 of each relay. Now to get some power to toggle the relays. you will need some that is only powered with the key in the ignition. I got mine from the 12v socket next to the shifter. Connect a length of wire to the pos and neg of this and run it to under that dash (There might be a better spot to get this from, but i couldn't think of anywhere) then you will have to split this between the 3 relays. you can do this how ever you want. it should be pretty straight forward. crimp your connectors onto these wires and plug them on the remaining relay plugs. When moving the key to ACC you should be able to head the relays clicking. if not check your getting 12V on the connectors and that they are plugged in to the correct pins. it should be pins 85 and 86. Check that the lights all turn on with the key in the ignition. remove the key and the lights should go off with that.
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What the heck is this? Does anyone actually know if this (see second pic for actual part ) serves a purpose? It's off the positive lead of the battery.
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when relocating battery what mm wire did you get? I am thinking of getting 40mm Second question is , would you run thenpositive and negative under frame or in cabin? Now considering i am relocating my battery, should i wait and run a positive and negative direct from battery to my new walbro or just run it now from front of the car? Finally how do you join the existing positive and negative in engine bay to the newly run wire
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Electrical Issue After Battery Relocation So I've relocated my battery and everything seemed fine key on engine off. Interior systems function with no issues. I attempted to move the car but after about 10 seconds of running my wipers started going crazy (not even switched on) and a cloud of smoke emitted from behind my radio into the cabin. To immediately rule out and prevent wasting anyone time this doesn't appear to be an issue between the battery and distribution block i.e. Short in the long power cable running from the trunk to the front of the car. But where the distribution begins and the power is distributed seems to be the cause. So this is the setup (see pic). I literally cut the three wires off the positive terminal, a 2 gauge, 8 gauge and a 16 gauge (approx) (see pic). The only difference is I cut out the 16 to 8 gauge connector that came from the terminal (see pic). Now this happens to also be the power to all the interior items and looking at the first picture the fuse that's blown. So in conclusion looking at the distribution block (pic 1) this is the only circuit of those three that blows causes my wipers to go crazy and burnt my radio up. Is there a resistor in that connector (see pic 3 again) or could this distribution block be crap? I'll take any and all suggestions please. -
Removing battery from my R33 Hey guys, I'm trying to remove the battery from the rear of my R33 and for the life of me I just can't - the stud that the nuts are screwed on are too long for me to stick anything in there and the screw itself is too pushed in for me to get in there comfortably. I just hate it how the battery is in the rear any ideas guys? Much appreciated. Cheers, Alex
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Battery acid / paint damage / Negative cable oxidised Obligitory I f***ed up and now i'm paying for it. A year back i went interstate for about 3.5 months and left my car in a mates back yard with a tarp over it. I'd left a lead acid battery connected thinking that i'd just jump start it when i got back. Came back and i had a big star shape of rust under the bonnet above the battery and further surface rust below the battery area. Wonderful. Fast forward a bit, change of address and saved some cash, and firstly, can't find a competent person that can actually tackle this engine bay damage properly, and neutralise whatever the hell it is on the paintwork. I am assuming it is battery acid/vapor damage but i have no idea what happened. I've paid a bloke 900$ in Dandenong (Vic) to crack at it and all his paint is just bubbling up and peeling off again. On their warranty card it says they don't cover rust and he doesn't want anything further to do with it particularly. I've put a brand new lead acid from repco in there and the thing worked for about two weeks and now it won't hold a charge at all. Alternator is giving me 14.4 when i jump it, fortunately i had the alternator reconditioned only 20,000 km's ago. I've noticed some oxidisation on that main negative lead thats soldered and screwed to the chassis but unsure if this can prevent a battery from charging. At the end of the day, i think i've got f**ked battery and it has been leaking down its back all over my engine bay again, no idea why, it's 5 weeks old. I plan to replace it with a dry battery if i can find one that fits. I'll note that on this R34 the battery compartment was really tight and i pulled out a white tray that used to be under the battery. Is it neccesary or no? I know for example my Falcon has its own plastic surround for cooling. This one On the R34 is just sitting on the chassis held with a clamp. Questions i suppose, recommend a type of dry battery thats correct for 34 Gtt? Can a bad negative connection prevent a battery from charging? Why do these lead acid batteries keep freaking bubbling over ( amplified sound system in car too much strain?) Know someone in vic that knows how to tackle rust/acid or an auto elec familiar with fault finding electrics in skylines. Thanks for your time. I'm aware i f***ed up. cheers
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Battery is leaking from the top The battery in my 34 is leaking from the top where you put water in it from. Yesterday I had to take the horn fuse out from the engine bay and this caused the battery light to turn on and my turbo timer was showing 15.3v . At the time I didn't know it was the horn fuse but I drove my car like that for half an hour to get home then when I searched google I found out it was cause of the horn fuse. When I checked the battery today I saw that the tray had lots of water and a lot had leaked onto the railing and caused white deposits. I took it out and wiped it down. Car still has power to everything and battery doesn't seem weak but you u think I f**ked the battery by driving it for half an hour on 15.3v?l?
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Hey guys, need help with how to go about moving the battery to the boot in my r31. I've read a lot of information On how to go about it, but I am still unsure. I know all the battery has to be in a secured box and vented (which I've already done), but I'm more concerned with the wiring and what goes where. Would be great if anyone could show pictures step by step, as I can't find any specific DIYs on this topic. I also wish to put a fuse in the boot as a safety measure, but once again, lack the knowledge and direction with electrical matters such as these. help would be much appreciated.
