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hello, everyone! i was hoping someone with an r33 could help me out. whist working on the brakes the other day i noticed that the installers zip tied the front brake lines to what seems to be the dust shield. i would like to have these lines secured properly, but I am not sure where the bracket goes on these. i have the service manual, but the line drawings aren't exactly super helpful with all of the other components that are in the area, so i am hoping that with a few pictures i would be able to understand where these are attached to. here's what i believe is the part that was removed:

the other night i took the car out for a spin. after a while, i noticed the brake peddle was super stiff and i was hearing a clicking sound from the brakes when i was stopped. when i started to drive, it felt like the calipers were engaged and it smelled like pads, so i am assuming the pads were engaged. this is on an r33 gtr. does the power steering system provide the vacuum for the brakes? does this sound familiar to anyone? thanks in advance.

hello! i ordered a set of these for my r33 gtr. for the hub centric ring it comes with, all i see in the documentation is PFS for the bore size. the model i ordered is LM086, which has the following specs: 18x10.0 20 offset bolt pattern is 5x 114.3 bore size = PFS I have no idea if the hub centric ring that ships with this is going to fit my vehicle, since there is no actual size noted. does anyone know if the 'PFS' that ship with these will work, or do i need to order a set of rings separately? does the PFS that is included close the gap between the LM bore and the 66.1? thanks in advance.

So, I'm looking to fix up under the front of my R33 GT-R (1995, not a v-spec or N1). Specifically after seeing the one they had in the Nissan Heritage Collection when I was there on holiday recently (awesome place by the way, if you're in Tokyo you have to go check it out) I want to put the front brake cooling ducts, engine undertray, and the front halves of the front wheel arch liners back in as mine came with none of these things when I bought it. I know there are some clearance issues on the wheel arch liners with 18s and the stock BOV, but I've got some solutions for that so I'm not too worried. What I was hoping for some help with is working out which part to get for the front of the right front wheel arch liner and the engine undertray, as there are two part numbers for each of these. For the engine tray the numbers are 75890-05U20 and 75890-24U20. The first is the basic part, the second is listed as being for series one v-spec cars and the N1 in all years. I have actually found pictures of the two parts and the only discernible difference is an extra bulge on what I believe is the driver's side of the part. So my question is does anyone know what that bulge is for? Is it going to be useful to have that extra space down the track (for mods etc.) or is it some weird N1 specific thing that I'll never have a use for? I've attached the pictures. For the wheel arch liners I haven't found any pics. The base part number is 63844-24U00, and the alternate part is 63844-24U10. It sounds like the second part was used for the v-spec and N1 in series one, and the N1 in series two. By series three all variants used the first part. Does anyone know what the difference is? Thanks heaps to anyone taking the time to read and help, really appreciate all the knowledgeable helpful folks here.

Made in 1995 by the Super Taikyu N1 racing team ALTIA, which was part of the Nissan group. Only made one for their street demo car. Silver face custom font with red lighting. All In working order and very very clean. The lit picture was dirty cleaned the plexi glas after that. Once in life time chance!! Prices less than most normal Nismo's go in Japan. $1100 USD World Wide Shipping $49 Paypal 4.4%

Hi I'm looking for a r33 gtr front strut top, part number 64101-24U30 HOODLEDGE ASSY-LH Anyone have one or know where to get one? Thanks

Hey guys, I have a bunch of bits and pieces for sale to suit R32 gtr's that are no longer needed. Located in Adelaide, but more than happy to post ifeel free to pm me or message my mobile on 0412 618 558 f you have any questions. Open to reasonable offers as well guys. APEXi Power FC D-Jetro to suit R32/R33 GTR $1250 - Brand new , just not needed now that I've decided to go in a different direction. Includes complete D-jetro wiring kit (harness, sensors, and nipples). HKS AFM Replacement pipes $250 - Brand new, was to be used with the d-jetro ecu above. Will do the above two for $1400 if sold together GReddy twin 60mm A pillar guage holder $100 - To suit R32s Genuine R32 GTR N1 boot lip $300 - Primed and ready to paint, the original threads to bolt it down are still there as well. Nismo G-MAX Spec 1 twin plate clutch $250 - Pull type, to suit late model R32 & R33 GTRs. Still 3.3mm of meat left on the plates (limit is 2.7mm according to nismo) so still a bit of meat but may be better suited to just rebuild it anyway. Any Questions don't hesitate to message me

Hi SAU, Purchased an R33 last Oct, seller was generous enough to give me a bunch of spare parts. For sale are all the parts i'm sure I won't be needing/have no space for. Any reasonable offer will be considered. Items located in SE subs Melbourne. Not willing to post interstate sorry. A full set of Work Meister S2R 18x10 +15 (5x114.3), all wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE001 (265/35 R18 97W) - $1200 - The alloys do have scratches, and major scuffs as seen in the photos below - Each comes with center caps, and air valve caps - Two of the tires have ~5mm of tread left, other two have ~6mm. A full set of Bilstein Coilovers -$400, or $100 each. - I'm not too knowledgeable on coilovers - Boots seem to be torn - Used to be on an R33 GT-R BCNR33 Interior Trim -$50 each - Each piece does have scratches and scuffs, refer to photos - Gear stick surround with ash tray - Steering wheel bracket cover

New HKS Duracon Shift knob for a most Nissan's 10 x 1.25 (R32/R33/S13/S14/C33). Price includes one shift coin please specify which you want. 180 USD Worldwide Shipping 40 USD paypal 4.4%

Hey guys just wondering if R33 GTST boot will fit a GTR? Or are the boots different on GTR compared to the GTST

Nismo 320km/h Cluster for a BCNR33, these are getting very expensive!! Priced far below jdm going price. Condition is absolutely stunning and this unit had no rev problems upon removal. $1000 USD Worldwide Shipping $45 Paypal 4.4%

Ultra rare first that I have ever seen, came out of a full spec BCNR33 TommyKaira R. Might have been also sold separately like the 32 version for 300.000 YEN. Condition very clean. 1600 USD worldwide shipping 40 USD paypal 4.4%

Hello all, If anyone was following my previous build thread I had an R34 GTT [FR34K] that I wrote off. I decided it was probably my only chance to get into the GTR scene. After searching for a while I found a member on here selling a beautiful white R33 GTR V-spec with an N1 engine. My goals for this car are just to be a weekend cruiser, occasionally heading down to the drags to see what it can do. If I could run a 10 second pass on the H pattern gearbox I would be exstatic, and I think somewhere in the vicinity of 800awhp would be more than enough as a max power figure. Car already has -7 turbos, poncams and a power FC with supporting mods, making a respectable 420awhp. It has HKS coilovers, Project mu rotors and gold BBS rims, with a lovely Jun style carbon lip. Immediate thoughts of this car (coming from a 485whp GTT) are: it's really fast. The GT35R on my R34, although made nice power, was quite laggy in comparison to the -7s. They feel like they have no lag, and the car doesn't have any problems whatsoever putting the power to the ground. I find myself looking down at the speedo after planting my foot and being blown away about how fast I'm going. The gear ratios help play a part in that as well, although aggressive, are still fantastic when just cruising. The suspension is very stiff - too stiff for me (it's something I will be changing very soon) but it handles superbly. After landing in WA, I took the car to a licencing centre to get it inspected. The list consisted of some minor things like globes and removing of tint. Nothing major - the hardest thing was child restraints which I borrowed out of a wrecked r33. Yesterday I passed my final inspection and picked up my custom plates.

Just wanted to share with everyone some concrete information regarding replacing boot struts on R33 skyline, specifically the GTR but I am sure the information will be transferable. The reason I am posting is that there wasn't much information regarding pressures & the ability to remove the strut from the bracket (requiring drilling). What I did ended up costing me $110. Below is a picture I pulled from another thread, this is the part of the strut that is hard to remove. Very hard, but not impossible. What we did was use my 10mm spanner and wedge it in between the ball and the strut, then slowly work the it off. It looks like it's going to snap the strut and it ends up destroying it, but that's ok because new ones are cheap. This is what mine looked like in the end. We ended up putting 100nm of pressure in each cyl. It holds the boot fine with a genuine GTR spoiler. If I had to do it again, I would put 150nm in each to see if it holds any better, BUT that 100 works just fine. Any questions please shoot them through.

- Nismo 365A Steering Wheel with original horn, excellent condition see pictures. (650 USD) - Nismo old logo early shift, metal version not chrome! These last much longer under use compared to the later chrome ones. (275 USD) - Nismo Leather shift discontinued (120 USD) - Very rare Altia GTR Skyline R32 and R33 watches in box with papers. Need new batteries. The R33 is new old stock with foil on it the R32 one is used in good condition with upgraded metal bracelet. 190 USD a piece International shipping 40 USD on all items. Paypal 4.4%

Hi all Starting a good old build thread to help keep track of the things I will be doing. Kind of like a car diary So Before the GTR I had a MkV Golf GTI. Great little thing. But being fwd was not for me. I was making a respectable 160 fwkw. That car gave a lot of others a run for their money . She had some good stance So after growing weary of loosing traction for all of first and some of second. I decided to go shopping for a different car. I looked at R32's, for the life of me I could not find one in my price range that didnt look neglected. So then I was all over carsales trying to find out what my next car would be. What I wanted was to get out of the Euro scene. GTi's were/are everywhere. I did not like that at all. I couldnt find any other car that I wanted to be in and I wanted a GTR. Then I decided to start looking at R33's. Just for the record I looked at all of the ones that were in my price range in. They looked so sad. Rusty, dinged up, holes in the dash, high km's which translates to even higher km's by judging the interior. I remember looking at a series 3 GTR that had the worst Idle, and rust starting around the doors and in the engine bay. A supposed 60xxx km on the clock, dash was in a horrible state, and the seats were torn. Luckily I became a memeber on here prior to entering the market. It became clear that, that car definately was wound back. So after searching and searching I found a freshly imported '95 GTR, near stock, original paint job, no rust, no dents, imaculate interior, straight as an arrow. The guy who imported it was a stand alone importer, no workshop nothing. So I gave him a ring, he gave me his address. Off I went to go look at this car. Too many times have I gone to look at a car and be severely dissapointed. Seeing as this was the only one I havent scoped out I was crossing my fingers and hoping for the best. As I rock up, I see a BNR34 x2, Mazerati, and a car under a carcover. I was drooling or the r34 white with black wheels. Looked hawt. Then shook hands with the seller and he uncovered the car for me. I had a detailed walk around it. Could not flaw it, except someone being very careless with a buffer. But that was nothing I couldnt tackle. The car looked amazing. At the time it had 85xxx km on the clock with full service history. I was so happy. He fired it up, and she started without a hiccup. I jump in he goes for a little bit of a warm up drive and asks me if I would like a spin. It caught me off guard, every other dealer or seller either wanted a deposit to show that I would buy the car, or receive some of my persuasion techniques. But not this guy. We hit it off very well. I drove through a nice windy area. It drove true, it ran smooth, sounded great, idled on the dot. I knew this was the car for me. So after 2 weeks I met him at the local VIC roads and we made the payment and got the new plates for my new pride and joy. I was so nervous driving it home. It's the biggest car Ive ever owned. And very well can be the most powerful. . With some fresh oil and a quick wash, this was her a few months back. This is what she looked like when I got her. I knew she needed some love. And I was willing to give it to her. So after taking a crash course in GTR's from this forum. I started scoping things out. Checked my exhaust = MINES. Checked my ECU = MINES. Read up on the MINES ecu found out it is not really for us Ausies. So I got myself a BNR32 ecu and gave toshi a ring. Got him to give me a nice "safe" tune on 13 PSI. The result? Note it did hit 250 on one run. But I was happy. Toshi said the car must be in good condition because of how easy it was to set up the AFR's. Made me even more happy. With the stock gauge being as gay as aids, I got a defi imitation, shadow boost gauge. So happy. And the car is on 13 psi everytime. i love electronic gauges . Then I started takeling the other things that were annoying me. The facia had scratches. That rubber coating stuff wasnt made for durability was it? haha. So firstly I painted it black, then I CF wrapped it. I also did my valley cover a nice red. Then just on the weekend I finally tackled the paint properly. Clay bar and premium wax. Could not have been happier with how the paint job came out. Dont worry I didnt use the brush at the local car wash. Bucket and wool wash mit . Whats next? Get rid of the rear wiper. Its so ugly! haha Find out what turbo's I have. Seeing as Im hitting full boost at 4k, I dont think I have the stockies bolted on. Car is going in for a good service next weekend. Cant wait to find out what tubbies are pushing her. Fingers crossed for n1's. Yes I will be putting the boost up haha. Getting new wheels. Enkei RPF1's 18x9.5 +15. Dose that spec sound good? The overall idea of the car is, get some nice power out of her and enjoy for a while until I saved up the money to get a engine rebuild and then I know Ill be power hungry and we shall see what I would like to do. With my current image in mind, I would the GTR to be a majority street car with the occasional track day here and there. Not chasing power figures just want the car to drive the way I want it to. Will need to get all supporting mods before I take the power up too far. Stock clutch no good for launches haha. Dont know if I want a twin plate. Seeing as Ill be extracting more power out of her Im not left with many options. But I dont like the fact that a twin plate will wear away quite quickly in stop start traffic. Any recommendations? Thanks guys. And Ill make sure to keep updating. Also sorry if its too long winded. Cheers

I have for sale for R33 and some general parts also Impul Front strut brace removed from BCNR33, It's pretty clean, side plates are also alloy and cup to the strut tower. Awesome brace, and Impul stuff is awesome. (May also fit R34?) $220 ONO BCNR33 Factory rear strut brace, Adjustable, sweet red skyline sticker so you don't forget what type of car you have, Its in decent condition. $140 ONO RB26DETT valve covers, plug cover with plaque, and front timing cover with the vac hose on there, Currently being polished, will chuck pics are soon as I get them back. $offer (Sorry for phone pic quality)

Hi All, Chasing a crank to suit RB26DETT, must be straight and in good condition, and have the long oil drive from a Late R32, R33 or R34 GTR. Let me know what you have. cheers