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Hello. Was wondering if the RB25 crank shafts were same/similar across the range? What are the differences? I couldn’t find a definitive answer, and have a Neo series motor and needed a new crank. I can find plenty for sale but obviously want to make sure there isnt any difference between one from say an R33, and my current one Also out of curiosity, is there a difference between the RB25DET blocks themselves from an R34 and R33?
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rb26 Running RB26 Long Block
Shortyesquire posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Selling the RB26 long block out of my 1999 Stagea S2 260rs restomod project. Basically planning to replace the long block with a Tomei/N1 RB28 stroker, but keep all the ancillaries to take it back to stock if need be. Car has done 200k kms, but has good compression (>160psi) on all cylinders, and has good oil pressure with Penrite 10-50. I've just replaced the belts and water pump. Can get my mechanic (an independent Nissan GTR specialist) to confirm. Will include sump, valve, ignition and timing covers. Won't include intake manifold, ITBs, exhaust manifolds, turbos, clutch etc. The car is running nicely and I'm happy to take people for a test drive in Sydney. Looking for $12,000 but negotiable. SMS or call me on 0411953301. Cheers, Andrew -
Hi everyone, I'm currently in the process of building my RB25 Neo. I've read the entire oil control thread and have been implementing all the recommendations. I'm wanting to enlarge the 5 oil return holes in the head and block from 8 mm to ~9-10 mm. I found when aligning the headgasket using the dowels to the underside of the head, that the 5 oil return holes line up perfectly. It's just a matter of opening up the existing holes. Not too difficult. However, when sitting the headgasket (again aligned with the dowels) on to the block the 5 oil returns are all completely off centre (see picture below). If I were to enlarge the exisiting holes much more, they would protrude under the gasket. I have a spare R33 RB25 block, and it's the same thing. I also check using the original headgasket and it's the same. I thought the idea was to align the drill with the existing hole (on a mill or I've even read people doing it by hand) and enlarge it to 10mm to match the headgasket. Am I missing something? Any help or info would be super appreciated! 🙂
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Hey guys. Really would love some guidance here, im stuck between a rock and a hard place and makes me sick that ive just had one thing after another go wrong on a car I purchased a month ago. Initially showed an exhaust valve leak from a leak down test, got head off, serviced, machined, replaced a few valves that needed replacing and all the guides, upgraded springs and retainers, upgraded cams to Poncam Type B’s, put it all back together. Popped it on the dyno, made only 180kw at 20PSI of boost. Power dipped at peak torque, so not good. They found it had a slight knock on a cold startup, but went away after a couple seconds. Dropped the oil, and found little bits of metal in the oil and oil filter, great! So bottom end needs some attention now. They didnt want to just replace whats broken, they wanted to go all out forged internals (pistons, rods, rings, crankshaft), get it machined, new oil pump, gaskets, bearings, the lot. Reckon it would come to about $20,000 with a tune after all back together. Im not after a ridiculous build. Its a weekend car to enjoy driving and cruising, im not wanting to make 500kw at the wheels. Reason they wanted to do all new parts is so they could cover their workmanship under their warranty, if something old that wasnt replaced broke, it could become a big thing Can i get some guidance on what I should do here? This is my first time getting into this stuff and the car has just been an absolute shit show from the get go, and makes me sick thinking how ive purchased this car and the engine needs to come out. There were no signs of this from the beginning that it had a bottom end issue, and i have not even driven it 400kms since buying it
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Wanted to buy R33 bottom end, not fussed on condition etc. Inbox me if available.
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Hello I need a new RB26 block as my current one has a coolant leak near the rear welsh plug Does anyone have a bare block available??? Cheers Wayne
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Brand new Nissan N1 RB26 Block for sale Still in the box and original packaging. Kudos Motorsport (no stock) RhdJapan (no stock) Nengun (no stock) Justjap - (no stock) $6499 Price $5500. Located Morebank NSW 2170 for pickup or can ship at your cost. -
For sale I have a forged rb26 short block i bought off a guy on SAU I paid $2500 do not want to sell for less, only selling because I've decided to go with a RB28 stroker kit Decked, bored, honed...Specs are as follows -Tomei oil restrictors -CP pistons -Eagle H beam rods -balanced r34 snub nosed crank -ARP bolts and bearings. Piston specs are 40thou oversized (87mm). Compression ratio is 8.5:1. The car ran 441awkw @ all fours on 24psi on e85 at Powertune Australia. Bloke I bought it off told me it had just been ran in and only reason he was selling was because he was going 3L bottom end. Great condition as seen in photos Inpsections welcome. $2500 easiest way to get me is on my mob:042188319
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Hi All, I bought a complete R32 RB26 to use the head on a 26/30 and am now looking to offload the bottom end. It has had something go through it so it will require new pistons and a bore to 86.5mm or possibly 87mm. I'm looking for: Block - $150 Crank - $150 Rods & Pistons - $80 Or: Crank, rods & pistons - $200 Crank, rods, pistons & block - $300 I also have: RB26 sump modified to suit RWD - $100 factory oil cooler/heat exchanger - $30 AAC Valve - $50 Standard fuel rail modified to be twin entry - $50 You can contact me via PM or on 0427 123 414 Cheers, Shane
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For sale I have a RD28 Nissan Diesel block for all of the guys wanting to build a high hp RB26. These blocks are good for applications over 1000hp and people looking to build a great stroker motor. The main advantages of running the RD28 block is that it has extra thickness in the oil galleries and water jackets are heavier gauge than the RB26 especially when boring out the block for stroker applications. There blocks have been known to be on engines making 800+hp on one bar of boost. Was going to use this block in my GTR but have another project going into it. Comes as a short motor with sump pistons and crank Looking for 500ono -
After a bare Rb26 block, ideally with stock bore (86mm). Cant be cracked. Ideally in Melbourne, otherwise must be able to ship.
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I have an Apexi Power FC to suit R34 GTR, in excellent condition. No longer required due to upgrade but came out of running car. Does not come with handcontroller. $690 inc postage to any Australian capital city. Pics available on request. Located in Brisbane. Contact via PM or sms on 0402 421 437. -
Well my N1 RB26 just died, not sure what exactly happened, but the outcome is a broken exhaust valve on cylinder 6, which has munched the piston and damaged the combustion chamber, upon stripping the engine, i have discovered that while the bore was unscathed of damage from the valve, the block is cracked. 500-600hp will do that i guess. Now im still unsure of what path i want to proceed down with the engine build, do i get an already built one and then sell off parts from my old one, just buy a bare block, source a new JE piston and fix the head up, etc So guys, show me what you have and then ill start making decisions on what i available, and what path to go down, $$$ of course are not something i want to throw away, so i want to do it right and once.
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After the following parts not in a great rush, will consider if the time is right and the price is reasonable. R33 S2 RB25 turbo block. Can be assembled with a knock not really too fussed as I will be stripping it down. Providing it hasn't thrown a leg out the side. R33 GTR crank. Must be good condition to put back into a block. R33 GTR rods. Good condition and haven't been damaged by bearing failure etc. Block and crank from SA preferably but will consider crank and rods from interstate. Not going to pay crazy money, nor what your mates mates grandmothers daughters son thinks its worth. Pm me pics or post here and we will work something out. Located in SA in the Adelaide hills. Cheers, Adam
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Hi all, I'm looking for a RB20Det. Located in Sydney. It would be best if i could see the engine running, if already removed i would require compression test results. Would also be interested in a package with ECU and RB20 engine loom. If you know anyone with an engine sitting around in their garage, let them know. Cheers Willis 0435 120 602, SMS works best.
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NEED EVERYTHING GONE, TAKING REASONABLE OFFERS!! Item: ACL Race Series Forged Pistons & Ring Set RB26DETT (Brand New) Price: $1200 Item: 1994 R32 RB26 Complete Block with Crank etc. Good for rebuild Price: $1000 Ono Item: Complete RB26 Head. Reconditioned. Complete with Values, Value Springs, Retainers, Cam Shafts, Cam Gears etc. Also comes with Rocker Covers & Complete intake manifold. Price: $1500 Ono Item: R33 GTR Standard Turbos with Dump pipes & Manifold (Good condition, removed from my car never had any issues with them. Price: $400 ONO Item: R33 GTR Standard Turbos (Never used, got these as spares with my car) Price: $200 FIRM Item: R33 GT-R Stock Coil Packs Price: $100 ONO Item: R33 GTS-T Skyline Rear Garnish Price: $20 FIRM Item: R33 GTS-T Centre Glove box/arm rest Price: $50FIRM Item: R33 Series 2 Dash pad, glovebox assembly, steering column and surrounding components/trims. Excellent condition. Price: $150FIRM Item: R33 GT-R S1 Passenger Headlight Has been repaired. Also suits GT-R S2 and GTS/T S1 Price: $50 FIRM Item: R33 GT-R S1 Steering Wheel/Airbag (needs a clean) Price: $80 FIRM Location: Western Sydney Contact: PM / 0432 473 406 -
Hi guys, I recently got my block back from machinists and its missing dowels etc which is fine as I will replace those. But behind the oil pump there is a hole in the block shown in the pictures below and im not sure if its meant to be sealed or left open. From memory I thought there may have been a little steel ball bearing lodged in there. Not sure. So for all those guys that have built rb26's or have pictures that can be referenced I would really appreciate some help. Thanks Jason
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FS [SYD]: RB25DET Stock Bottom End, Head (or complete but dissembled) - the lot $400 Hai, So most of you active SAU people might know, my Edward Lee's (Special Edition) Low KM motor finally exploded - which took out my turbo too. I had this big plan to rebuild it, make it a weapon but a few things in life got in the way so that's not going to happen anymore. Instead I am going to put another used motor in and call it a day. Engine can come complete, although dissembled or parted as per the prices below. Water pump, timing kit are all under 3 years old and less than 20 000km (so can be easily reused for a cheap rebuild). Also has ARP non-2000 studs. Cylinders 1 & 6 are cooked.. bores slightly scratched and head has some shrapnel marks. --------------------------- $400 motor minus hotside, coldside, flywheel, coil packs, all ancillaries not included OR $200 head, cams, cam caps, cas, VCT, covers, valves. pretty much complete, no head studs $200 bottom end, water pump, crank, timing belt, idler/tensioner, knock sensors, sump, blah blah., no water outlet $100 full set of ARP non-2000 head stud/nuts/washers - torqued once only --------------------------- Location: Canley Vale, NSW 2166 Contact: Here or PM Hope someone buys it, gives me some money to invest in a new used, non Edward Lee' SE motor lol -
WTB RB25DE Block and Head Hello, I'm looking to buy an RB25 motor (block and head) in running condition suited for an N/A r32 skyline. Please pm me if you have anything.
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Wanted to buy a RB26 block can be bare, stuffed etc but one I can register so clean numbers.. pref a 33/34 block but 32 is ok Melbourne would be great let me know what you got peace
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Damaged RB30 Block Repairs Hi all, I'm helping a friend rebuild a VL Calais. Long story short we bought the car for $2500 as a bunch of pieces and a rolling shell. Most of the car was there and we have managed to put it all back together. I should add that we are by no means mechanics, so please excuse my ignorance where it may appear. We have managed to start the car and it does move under its own power after several months of rebuilding it, however, one of the exhaust manifold studs was bent and had been poorly re-tapped. Initially we believed this would not be an issue, however, it leaks radiator coolant from the re-tapped stud area (we just left the exhaust off the car for initial tests). We have since learned that this cannot be repaired quite as simply as we had hoped and the block may need serious work to be any use to us. I believe that there may be coolant leaking into cylinder six. There is no water in the oil (we've checked twice). Obviously this is an issue and we are in the process of stripping and pulling the engine out for reconditioning. The coolant absolutely pours out of the exhaust port of cylinder six when the engine is running. I'd suggest it could empty the coolant from the car within 15 minutes if left to run. My query here is, in the event that we pull the engine for re-condition and cylinder six is in good condition, is it going to be possible to repair the block of the engine? We could simply have someone re-work the block and re-tap the stud, but does anyone know the effect that might have on the water path through the block? I'm concerned that if we attempt a repair we will re-direct the coolant path into the cylinder itself or some other area where we don't want coolant. Can anyone offer their opinions on this matter or does anyone have experience with this type of problem? (Pictures to follow).
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WTB RB30 long/short block Hello everyone, I'm currently in the market for an RB30 short or long block. modified or stock. Series 2 or an A8 preferred but not a must. Paypal ready. My only problem is I live overseas and would need to have it shipped to a freight forwarder (at my expense of course) Let me know what you guys got. Regards, Joe R
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RB20DET Block I have a RB20DET block that I just want out of my garage. No sump, no head, no rods/pistons. Please just come and take it away, PLEASE!
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Hi all, I've got my blown RB25DET Neo stock bottom end for sale: Cylinders 3, 5 and 6 have lost compression and it appears that the rings are fused, however still rotates Two of the bores (5 and 6) are scratched deep enough to feel when you run your finger over the bore, there are less severe scratches on other cylinders too When the engine went it first started pushing a lot of coolant and finally went up heaps in crank case pressure and started blowing oil and smoke from the breathers There are some burn marks near the water galleries on the recently changed head gasket (Oct 2016, included with the engine) but we're not sure if these were there before, during or after the bottom end went I am not 100% certain of the root cause of the engine failure and there may be other damage to the block besides the bores This engine is off my 1998 R34 GTT sedan and was at 156,565km when pulled out, with the last 30,000 kms at around 275rwkw. The car was still movable when the engine was pulled but ran quite rough. Please let me know if you need any other information. The engine is currently at my mechanic in Melbourne south east, pick up only. What's included: Engine block, rotating assembly, head gasket, couple of other random gaskets. Possibly sump and oil pickup. I will keep the water pump. Asking $150 but open to offers. Note I will need buyer's driver license number for the receipt. Absolutely no warranty other than this might make a very awkward coffee table Thanks guys -
WTB RB26DETT engine block with crank and cradle or short motor Let me know what you have, would prefer NSW pick up Have lots of other GTR parts if looking to swap something Karl 0407931302
