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Showing results for tags 'boost'.
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Hey guys i just recently got my r34 manual converted. since i have had it back it has been running slugish (worse then my NA r34). so while driving it the boost gauge goes up in boost and you can hear the turbo spooling but it feels like i am not getting any boost at all! the part that seems weird is that it seemed to drive normal when cold? (felt like it had boost. i didnt test that to ghard though since the car was cold) any help would be much appreciated, thank you
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Hi guys I have an R34 GTT and am concerned with the boost levels it's running. It has some basic bolt-ons including a front mount intercooler, full 3inch de-cat turboback exhaust, apexi pod filter and custom cold air intake. The stock 2-stage boost controller has also been grounded out. However I've been having issues with how much boost it's running. It's occasionally hitting the 1bar mark on the factory boost gauge, and it does not have a boost tap. I believe that was causing issues as the car had severe flat spots through the rpm range and was missfiring and spluttering occasionally on boost. I read up and unplugged the factory 2-stage controller and it now sits on 7psi constantly, which i'm much happier with. My 2 questions were, why/how is it boosting this much without a tap or controller, and could the missfire/break up I was getting on boost be because of the boost levels it was running? Feels fantastic on 7, and pulls properly the whole way to redline. Have checked and gapped my spark plugs to .85 too. Was planning on getting it tuned on a link ecu but just wanted to check for ideas here first about those two things. Thanks guys
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Hi, Trying to install a boost gauge in my 89 R32 GTR. I've searched the forums and Google extensively and there is a lot of great information about teeing into the stock boost gauge line as shown in the attached picture borrowed from a diy thread on this forum. Problem is that line has been removed on my car. There are some other diagrams but I'll be honest, I don't get it. As I am a simple person and visual learner, does anyone have or can anyone take a photo showing me where that line used to connect to the engine? That way I figure I can skip teeing into that line and just connect the tube directly to the engine. Thankyou in advance!!
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Hi all, deleted the bov recirc and oil breather - the two pipes the connect to the turbo intake pipe. I have blocked them with bungs. Now wondering where do I put the hose that goes to the boost controller/solenoid. As the nipple it used to connect to was on of the pipes that I removed. Where’s the best place to put it? T it with something else or drill a hole in the intake and put it there? Thanks
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Hi i have fitted a hks 2530 to my r34 gtt. I know they are not the best match but as a stop gap, what sort of boost level should I run it at, on 98 Ron with usual mods, stock manifolds etc and power fc and what sort of power do they generate thanks
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I have a C33 Laurel with an RB20DET, and the car runs normally, but there's been an issue bugging me since I bought it. Whenever I go full throttle(or close to full throttle) and start making boost, there's a noticeable burning smell coming from the engine bay. There isn't any smoke, and the turbo spools up just fine. I've checked the oil level often, and over the 4 or so months that I've owned it, it hasn't dropped noticeably at all. Is this likely a blow-by issue? It does have a pod filter, straight pipe exhaust, and external wastegate. I would think that a bad turbo would consume a lot more oil.
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Been trying to work this out all weekend I'm all out of ideas Re wiring old triple gauge back into my r34 gtt Have everything working except the boost gauge which comes on with accessories and basically reads voltage I have it wired to the middle wire on boost sensor Any suggestions would be awesome ? -
Hey guys, I d like to ask for advice... My newly bought skyline running perfectly on 7 psi but if i raise the boost to 10 psi it cuts out at 6000 rpm and i just cannot tune it out.... when the engine is hot its getting worse (5500rpm)... I connected a smoke machine to check for leaks...I marked the blocked pipes with red X....the smoke is immediately (at low pressure) coming out from the crankcase and from the inlet manifold... It just doesn`t make sense to me how can it smokes from the engine when everything is blocked... Is my turbo leaking through the bearing housing back to exhaust and through the open valves comes out at the inlet? Or is it normal? Any idea? I m kind of getting hopeless for now maybe just i m the dumb and cannot tune it out (datalogit power fc, Z32 maf)... pls don`t spare me everything helps, have a good one
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Hey guys, I'm looking to get my hands on a manual boost controller from turbotech. I live in the states, so I'm unable to purchase one from eBay. I'm prepared to immediately send payment to anyone willing to buy one off of eBay for me to include shipping to the States + some cash on top for your trouble. Thanks!
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Hi Folks Has anyone ever seen anything like this before with boost spiking? Below is 4 small traces from 4 pulls. Run 1 was done with a vacuum line running from the compressor housing to the wastegate. Run 2, 3, and 4 were done running the line through the (Borg Warner) 3 port boost solenoid with it ENTIRELY UNPLUGGED ELECTRICALLY. I can only surmise that the boost solenoid itself acts as a restriction. In run 4 I stayed on the gas longer and you can see it does drop to wastegate pressure. Note: I've had issues similar to this with: a) 4 port boost solenoid (MAC, very old, replaced) b) 3 port boost solenoid (MAC, literally fell apart and returned) c) Borg Warner EFR boost solenoid If something else can cause this, what could it be? The gate was/is a 50MM Progate single. I am assuming the wastegate is fine, as a hose directly from pressure source to wastegate works as expected. I have had (briefly) a MBC which also works as expected sitting in the line in the past. I have replaced all hoses and shortened them to no effect. Is there anything else to check? I'd love to run between 10 and 20psi, but it really looks that if I hook up any boost solenoid I'm going to be dealing with at least a 20psi spike before settling down to whatever boost I specify (that part does in fact work).
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rb25de+t R34 na+turbo conversion
R34 rocket bunny sedan posted a topic in Engines & Forced Induction
OK so need some help please people just turbod my na r34 and am checking if what it's doing is OK before my tune on Thursday OK so I'll start with parts I'm running... And post problem last Rb25de neo R33 5speed gearbox conversion Was using rb25 one but think was near dead New rb25turbo hasn't arrived yet R33 turbo manifold Gtt injectors R32gtst4det fuel pump Power FC ecu stock gtt base tune atm Big front mount cooler Turbo smart bleed valve New 3"pipe decat and r32 custom dump R34na 02sensor R32gtst4det afm I wired in also tried 34 na one OK so my problem is it misses bad under boost only.. disconnect turbo runs sweet can this be my ign timing when boosting? Just want it all good and ready for my first tune as never had one what should I get done in the tune and what boost 5? And just get fuel/air and some timing pulled/retard etc...also haven't tried yet as my new turbo is on its way but the one I was using was blowing smoke and whining and no matter what it was stuck on 7-8 psi my hand controller wouldn't turn it down so waste gate? Over boost could've been the problem? -
OK so turbod my r34 Rb25de neo car is half tuned as turbo blew and spent all my money on a new one haha OK so I'm not happy with the knock levels bad timing set 15btdc have set all timing in map to low but so bloody hard trying to get power without knock the load timing is hurting my brain haha most of my map I set to 18 load and rpm and upd injectors Correction from 1000 to 1400 barley any knock but just all feels crap so was wondering if anyone had a pic of there maps I can copy just for a base start for rb25+t 5-10psi and maybe injector map thanks people R33 5speed gearbox conversion R33 rebuilt turbo R33 turbo manifold Gtt injectors R32gtst4det fuel pump Power FC ecu and controller Big front mount cooler Turbo smart bleed valve New 3"pipe decat and r32 custom dump R34na 02sensor R34 na pink label afm ..
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nsw/act Parts off R34 GT-R
xanavinismo posted a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Apexi Power FC with Hand Controller & Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller to suite R34 GT-R - $400 for the lot. All in working order, selling due to upgrade in ECU and boost controller. Can post out but at buyers expense. Please PM or msg 0424 056 507 for any inquiries cheers. -
Hi all i have a stock rb25 neo for road use. I'm considering my turbo options, current spec is gtr 570cc injectors, hks 2530, power fc, intercooler and the usual bolt on stuff ive had plenty of skylines and silvias but never had anything top mounted so I think it's time i have not got massive power figures on my agenda, but response and solid boost while not pushing the neo to hard. I've narrowed it to the gen2 5558 precision or the gtx3076 gen2, any opinions ? i will either use 6 boost, sinco or a CRG manifold, v band likely and need advice on a wastegate too, is 40mm enough? It will run 98ron and I have a r35 gtr afm which I hope will cope ? thanks -
Hey everyone! just bought my first JDM, a 1996 R33 GTST series II with 100,000 kms. Spent a long time searching and found this super clean example. Tein adjustable coilovers FMIC HKS boost controller KKR430 and a list of other standard bolt ons. car made 230kw on the dyno with no tune done. Will be getting it services and tuned at NAS automotive very soon! I understand I'll need an R32 ECU and a nistune to do any kind of mapping? I love it
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Looking for a turbo to suit my RB20DET. The car is currently running a china T04E and I am sick of having no boost till 4000RPM. I am looking for anything suited to the RB20 engine. Standard R33 turbo would be fine, a TD05 would be perfect, but if you have one sitting around, post up what it is AND THE CONDITION IT IS IN and I will get back to you
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Hi guys Have a few random parts up for sale R32 GTR Headlights 1 in good condition, other cracked around where the globe sits.. both in very good condition on the outside.. still work $100 Apexi AVC-R boost controller $300 Alpine Type R Subwoofer in original box... good nick $300 Alpine V Power Monoblock Amp MRP-M 1000.. Very good quality and good condition $250 PM or text on 0432 021 242 Located in Eastern Melbourne -
Hi i have a 2001 250t rx and it has recently begun to act a bit strange. The car has always driven great, and been a rocket generating plenty of thrust in the top end, however recently when i was coming up Mt Vic, it suddenly dropped power/boost and seemed to be only running at about 75% of it's normal output. I thought at the time the ecu may have dropped power due to things getting hot ? however my temp gauge was all good. I backed off and pulled over, restarted and as i went over the top of the Blue Mtns it seemed to come good and bounce back, so i thought it may have been a temp thing. Over time its started to do it more regularly, to the point i thought i may have had a blocked exhaust/ cat etc as i also noticed one of the pipes coming out of the muffler tip didn't seem to be flowing at all. I visited my exhaust guy and we pulled the pipe off at the cat and pre muffler and took it for a run and still no improvement, so i guess we can eliminate the exhaust. However a system scan of the car revealed a fault with the knock sensor. Could this be the culprit ? any help would be appreciated cheers
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Hi guys, I was on the road on Saturday and while on boost I noticed something fall on the floor at my feet... Its a small bit of rubber which I assume covers a vacuum line or something similar but I haven't had a look at it in the daylight yet. Now when I drive the car without being on boost it's fine and I can't feel or hear anything unusual. However, when the car is on boost I can hear (and smell) air leaking from around the area next to the pedals. It seems to be somewhere under the dash under the steering wheel. I know it's leaking from somewhere because I can not only hear it but i can also see it on the boost gauge dropping from 17 to about 14psi... The car is a 1993 R33 GTS-t. If anyone has had this happen to them I'd appreciate any help as to where this rubber plug sort of thing came from or what the actual issue is. Thanks in advance Nev
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Hello So its sorta hard to explain, but ill try my best. I have a 1998 R34 GTT Skyline, It has a rb25det NEO. It has no engine mods other then an oiled HKS Pod filter, Apexi Front mount intercooler and an Apexi AVC-R Boot contoller. I have a problem (is most noticable in 3rd gear) where when i hit apoximatley 5000rpm power drops and from outside the car it sounds like im on red line apprently. I am still obtaining the same out of boost and injection percentage according to the Apexi AVC-R. When i set the boost at stock pressure the problem goes away. However the problem accours again when i turn the boost up. Starting at 9 psi and onward up to 11 psi! (i havent tried to go any higher) iver also tried it with traction control on and off and it makes no difference. Please help, Do i need a tune or new plugs and coils, etc... Thanks for your help, Im new to all this. Alex
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$250, SE Melbourne, Will Deliver 0422 432 150
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So here's one I havn't seen before, Multiple gauge failure on the standard R33 GTST S1 dash cluster, No boost gauge (Has aftermarket fitted and plumbing is still attached to standard as well as aftermarket) No oil pressure gauge (again has aftermarket fitted but Havn't checked connection's to standard) No fuel reading (Has Hi flow fuel pump fitted) Any opinions on whether it could be? Possibly one single cause or just a case of 3 seperate causes? I have checked to make shure all plugs are plugged into the dash and all ok. Obviously considering I have the after market gauges working the fuel gauge is currently my biggest priority, but dont want to pull the fuel sender out if it could possibly be a much simpler issue. Also not car is not running the factory ECU, It's running purley on a Haltech waying up wether this too could be a cause of the problem. Otherwise no other auto electrical issues. Any help would be appreciated.
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For sale I have a RD28 Nissan Diesel block for all of the guys wanting to build a high hp RB26. These blocks are good for applications over 1000hp and people looking to build a great stroker motor. The main advantages of running the RD28 block is that it has extra thickness in the oil galleries and water jackets are heavier gauge than the RB26 especially when boring out the block for stroker applications. There blocks have been known to be on engines making 800+hp on one bar of boost. Was going to use this block in my GTR but have another project going into it. Comes as a short motor with sump pistons and crank Looking for 500ono -
I've thought about writing up one of these for a while now and I've got some time to kill at work at the moment so I guess here we go Some background first My first car was an old red 86 corolla while I was on my L's. The car ended up getting totalled out the front of my parents house in the early hours of the morning. Scrapped that car and bought a 97 EK1 Civic, an awesome little car to cruise around in on my red P's Had plans on doing a b18 conversion on it but ended up buying a 97 DC2 Integra instead. Only a few basic bolt on mods were done by the boys at Toda in wetherill park, 115kw at the fronts I had this through my red and green P's. I lost my licence for 3 months and during this time 2 cars caught my eye, S15 Spec-R and R34 GTT. 2 guys I used to work with owned 1 of these each. The more I looked in to both these cars, the more I fell in love with the GTT. Now I knew what car I wanted, and I knew exactly how I wanted it to look. Black and with the Nismo kit Fast forward a year and a bit to december 2011, I sold the integra and bought a run around corolla so I could save up for the GTT So I searched around the net for over a year or so looking for that "one" car. Until in april 2012, searching carsales at work, I finally found it. It looked clean, well looked after and exactly what I wanted. I called a mate of mine and sent him the link to look over. After working out the funds and a few email conversations with the seller, it was time to go see her in person. I took a mate of mine with me as he has owned a few skylines and knew what to look for. We pull up to the meeting place and there it was, the pictures did not do it justice. Even before we got out of the car I told my mate I'm buying it. I had him look it over from to to bottom and after a talk with the owner it was time for a drive. Now the funny thing was, I was still on my green P's, I could of gone for them whenever I wanted, just never had the need to, until now lol I had my mate test drive it for me and once he gave me the go a head I left a deposit. As we were driving back to our mechanics place he said to me he never understood my obsession with getting the GTT with the nismo kit until he saw this one lol A couple of days after that I got my full licence and a few days after that I paid the rest and picked her up. So that's my story and here she is A few days after I picked her up last year Out with a some mates a few weeks later
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Time to sell my beloved FPV F6 Typhoon in Mercury Silver. The mrs wants to buy a block of land together so the money I get for this will help towards my end of the bargain. It's in pretty damn good condition and well looked, the car has been clear from accident's and has no encumbrance owing on it. Comes in the ZF 6-speed auto which is driving very well, no leaks or anything like that from anywhere on the car. It really is extremely clean and now comes with a full year registration I have just fitted up a brand new set of 20" Silver Agent STAGGERED wheels and tyres, with a whopping pair of 275's on the rear for premium grip and safety. An original XR8 bonnet has also been fitted to it, so there is not much left to do aesthetically. The front and rear brakes were recently replaced costing over $1,800 so you're basically getting brand new Brembo's to go with it. Other than the wheels and XR8 bonnet, the car has just had $3,000 spent on mild performance goodies. Just had a set of 90lb injectors fitted, a high-flow catalytic converter for better breathing, a Plazmaman intercooler, Bluepower CAI and a custom tune, pumping out 302KW at the wheels a mild 13psi. Comes will full service history and the most recent service done at Bluepower was a performance service, achieving great results. The car really has no faults at all so it will pass any inspection and roadworthy by anybody's standards. Happy to provide roadworthy and undergo any sort of test. No time wasters and low-ballers please. The car is extremely clean inside and out, is at an awesome price of $21,990, I have a little room to negotiate as I do need it gone, but no swaps please. A genuine sale Can assist with transporting to interstate buyers Contact Manny on 0488582587
