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PLEASE REQUEST MORE PICS IF GENUINELY INTERESTED I HAVE OVER 120 PICS OF THE BUILD + FINISHED PRODUCT I WILL ALSO ANSWER ANY QUESTION ASAP, WILL BE CHECKING EMAIL CONSTANTLY SO DONT HESITATE THIS CAR IS ALSO LISTED ON ALL COMMON CARSALE WEBSITES WITH MUCH MORE PICS... Carsales listing has about 65 pics Up for sale is my Pride and joy, an E85 Fueled 1996 M-Spec S2 R33 GTS-T with 145,000kms I have owned her for 4 years and have spent the last 12-18 months transforming the already 596hp beast into my ultimate reliable, easy to drive R33 ASKING $31999 ONO VIN: 6U9000ECR33113727 I Purchased her with 596hp on E85 and absolutely meticulously cared for... a solid build but it needed a few things. Faulting it were the typical hard to drive brass button clutch, grinding 5th gear, sticky throttle body, a few small tune faults and some minor cosmetic details. ( old steering wheel, no floor mats etc.) I wanted it perfect so I decided to strip it down and change a few things to my liking and as you will see below.. i got a bit carried away with my “quick” teardown and rebuild. Reason for regretful sale is I’m wanting to buy a house.. so its time for my labour of love to be passed on. The car has never been smoked in, it has never been parked outside.. Literally not been parked in the sun more than a hour since I’ve owned it. Never parked in shopping center car parks, never parked in the city, never driven to work etc. has been 100% a weekend car and has been only parked in my dry and safe garage hence the great condition paint, headlight lenses, interior and lack of even a tiny speck of rust or corrosion. The car has been cleaned and washed almost every time its driven (once or twice per fortnight). Has always been maintained with high quality products like Mothers and Meguiar’s The car has just been tuned at PIT’s by Matty Spry 30/5/2018, regarded as one of the best in the industry to work on a skyline. It made a reliable 599.99HP at the wheels @25PSI It would be fair to assume that every fast car has been built to be driven hard.. but not only has this car had very little Kms since rebuild but it has been very well cared for, I understand the stress that every part in the car Is put under at high boost and have always driven accordingly... it has never been skidded, thrashed or even redlined... the highest RPM the car will ever see under my ownership is by my tuner in a controlled environment, with that in mind Rev limiter is set to 7350 for safety but can obviously be raised if you choose My attitude with this car has always been “Do it right- Do it once” hence the 40k+ of parts used to get up to my standards (on a car that already had a lot spent on it by previous owner – (Probably in the order of 30-40k incl car) Everything I have touched is either already perfect or has been replaced with brand new parts. No stone left unturned, no corners cut. I have used nothing but the best parts and have spent hundreds of hours researching the best part or best method for the job, only Genuine Nissan or top brand Aftermarket parts have been used – eg. Can get an oil cooler for $100 but I got a $650 Japanese top quality unit, which has fluid pass through twice for extra cooling. Many many things on the car where I have spent MUCH more than necessary just for the peace of mind knowing it is built as strong, as reliable, as functional and as fast as it can be. You can rest assured that you are buying a car that isn’t just built to go fast.. its built to do it comfortably for a long time to come, without issue. You can also rest assured knowing that the person who built this car is a perfectionist who spent a lot of time and thought getting everything right, I don’t just bolt things on I look at every aspect of this particular job and how it interacts with every other part of the car to ensure the whole product at the end. I was once told there is 3 things of importance to car owners and you can only have 2… - Cheap, Fast and Reliable – and I have certainly opted for the latter 2 Engine has always been serviced every 2000Kms MAX, oil and filter - gearbox and diff were done every 5000kms (like everything else way over done for peace of mind), has just had brand new clutch, brake, diff, engine, gearbox and power steer fluids 30/5/18 Where items are marked NEW they have been a part of the recent rebuild and are all BRAND NEW parts – this process was completed on 4/6/2018 so all these parts have JUST been installed will have very minimal use and KM’s – all other parts were installed previously by either myself or previous owner, (the car has done about 7,000kms total since the previous owner built motor prior to me buying it… including the KMs I have done) so even parts that aren’t brand new have low Kms on them Due to the extent of modifications.. this car cannot be sold with a RWC, it will be de-registered on the day of sale, if purchaser is on gold coast or south brisbane im willing to deliver the car to you and remove plates once in your garage, I can provide details of the RWC certifier that I have always used for this car for an easy re-register $42540 in Receipts + $18000 I paid for the car Well over $42,000 in receipts (a 2” thick folder full of receipts will be supplied with the car aswell as over 125 pics of progress of the build and finished product - BYO USB), and as anybody who has ever built a car like this would know big ticket receipts are only a fraction of the money that’s been spent on her – also keep in mind I am quoting the prices I paid which is generally way below normal retail price Engine: Rebuild done by Troy at Arundel cylinder heads NEW $9000 Rebuild on a motor that already had $10k+ in it Block Decked Plateau Hone and bored Full Engine Balance and Blueprint NEW CP Forged Pistons 86.5mm 9.0:1 $1000 Kelford cams Balanced and plugged crank Nitto oil pump Forged Rods HKS cam gears NEW ACL Race Bearings $240 NEW All seals rubbers gaskets etc. NEW Japanese water pump $90 NEW Gates timing kit $250 NEW Tomei cam cap studs $325 ARP Studs NEW ATI Superdamper harmonic balancer $720 Genuine Greddy Intake Manifold $1000+ 1000cc ID injectors Splitfire coil packs Vipec ECU – $1800 - Just tuned at 599.99HP by Matty Spry at PITS gold coast - tune alone cost $2650… the two runs on the dyno sheet are at wastegate spring pressure @ 10PSI and 2nd is with elec boost control @ 25PSI NEW Raceworks 4 Bar Map sensor $180 NEW Clear Timing Cover $90 Custom Stainless catch can and power steer bottle Stainless vented coil pack cover K&N pod air filter Head: Port and polish on inlet and outlet bowl areas $560 Full head service incl adjust valve spring tensions/throat after putting in larger valves $720 NEW Oversized Stainless exhaust valves $280 NEW Oversized Stainless intake valves $306 NEW Seals $130 NEW MLSR 1.3mm head gasket $30 Large oil drain fitting with 5/8” oil/E85 resistant High temp hose to sump Turbo + Exhaust: NEW Garrett GTX3582 Vband Turbo With ATP Twin Scroll T4 1.06 AR Housing $3000 NEW Custom Twin Scroll T4 CRG Turbo manifold (chose this because of the amazingly unrestrictive merge collector welding) $1300 NEW Custom 3.5" Stainless Dump + Mid Pipe $1777 NEW Basalt Volcano Wrap on dump pipe – this is the best heat wrap around (75% overlap not minimum 25%) $80 NEW Kakimoto Racing Hyper Full Mega N1 3.5" Full Stainless Cat back Exhaust $1500 Twin Tial 40mm Wastegates Tial Blow Off Valve NEW Pro flow stainless braided turbo fittings and hoses $500 NEW High quality stainless T-bar Clamps used throughout boost/intercooler piping $300 NEW all silicone hoses used for boost, BOV, wastegates, boost controller etc, all with stainless worm drive clamps not cable ties NEW Innovate Wideband O2 sensor in dump pipe NEW MAC 4 port Electronic boost control $100 Spare exhaust bung located at top of dump pipe, to enable much better tuning Foil backed fiberglas heat wrapping on Turbo water feed as runs close to exhaust Oil drain from head and turbo run in specialty 250c oil/e85 resistant smooth bore hose to sump, then sleeved with 500c fiberglass and silicone coated sleeve for superb protection from exhaust Cooling: NEW HPC Ceramic coating on turbo manifold $935 NEW HPC Ceramic coating on turbo exhaust housing $282 M-Spec aftermarket alloy radiator NEW Mushimoto Dual Pass 25 row oil cooler and genuine braided lines + sandwich plate $650 (LIFETIME WARRANTY) ARE Large Front mount intercooler NEW All Radiator\Heater hoses replaced with silicone $100 Clutch: NEW 1000HP NPC 225mm Twin Carbonic Sprung center 5 puck Full Billet clutch $2700 - drives almost like a stock clutch, absolutely miles ahead of the brass button that was on the car when I bought it. Very little noise when pedal is pressed compared to other twin plate clutches. NEW NPC billet Flywheel (slightly lighter and rotational mass reduced by having most of the weight/mass closest to center) NEW OEM Nissan slave clutch cylinder $100 (consulted with NPC this is the best slave to suit twin plate clutch) NEW full fluid flush with Motyl RBF600 fluid $35 Gearbox: NEW Brand new OEM Genuine Nissan 5 speed manual gearbox shipped from Japan $3000 NEW genuine NISMO upgraded Gearbox Mount $150 NEW Nissan throw-out bearing supplied with box Fuel: NEW Speedflow 40 micron Billet + stainless fuel filter $190 Speedflow fuel regulator NEW Pro-Flow E85 Teflon lined stainless braided Hose and fittings $800 Plumbing from pumps have been done via 2 separate hardlines and are joined into 1 large braided line at the filter in engine bay. NEW EFLEX sensor installed ready for tuning on 98 octane through to e85 $100 Custom Stainless Surge tank in boot. Dual Bosch High flow pumps Chrome Fuel rail New 90mm Throttle body and cable $200 NEW genuine Nissan TPS $130 Brakes: NEW DBA T3 4000 series slotted rotors all round $652 NEW Remsa brake pads $150 NEW Brand New professional HPC “HSV red” Brake caliper coating $300 Labour to fully rebuild all brake calipers after being coated (new pistons, seals, clips etc) $530 NEW HEL Braided brake lines all round $180 Motul RBF600 full brake system fluid flush $200 (one of the best brake fluids available) Suspension: NEW Japanese Wheel bearings all round $ 1000 prefessionally installed NEW Whiteline adjustable Front and rear sway bars (22mm rear 24mm front) $600 NEW Whiteline Adjustable Swaybar links $300 Labour to install sway bars and adjust pre load $400 Driftworks Coil overs Car height is perfect balance of looks and performance, not so low its uncomfortable or bumpy around corners etc. Wheels and Tyres: 18" Enkei Rajin Wheels $1600 (very light and strong- look great too) Hankook Ventus RS3 tyre’s, one of the best street tyre’s, Super sticky in the dry and surprisingly good in the wet. $300+ ea Rear: 265/35/18 - Front: 235/40/18 Interior: GTR bucket seats – Very comfy and makes you feel one with the car, no sliding around on corners Custom Airbrushed Red console + dash facia and drivers door panel (smoke and skulls, nice and subtle though) NEW Genuine MOMO Hand Stitched Leather Steering Wheel $500 Feels very nice in hands, good grip (made in Italy) NEW MOMO Quick disconnect Steering wheel Boss NEW genuine Nismo 5 piece floor mat set $300 (very soft for bare foot driving) Kenwood Speakers 6" splits in front and 6x9"s in parcel shelf + Amp under passenger seat Sony touchscreen DVD Player/Stereo with AUX cord Matching black with red Stitching console armrest, handbrake and gearstick boot, black and red gear knob All white LED interior lights including blue instrument cluster lights Tinting Gauges: NEW Depo Japanese Stepper Gauge 4 in 1 "boost, Volt, Oil press, Oil temp" $250 NEW Innovate LC-2 Air Fuel Ratio gauge and wideband $320 Battery/ Wiring/ Electronics: Optima red top $375 (great cranking amps makes cold starts much easier) Blitz Turbo timer All wiring has been done neatly and properly (I am an electrician) all joins soldered and all cables wired to ECU have been labeled with non-fade printed labels for easy ID, corrugated tube used to protect cables where needed When motor was removed I wrapped all engine bay wiring/ looms in foil backed fiberglass heat wrap as an extra precaution Electric mirrors work well Sunroof works and seals well All lights, both interior and exterior work perfectly, as well as all wipers etc. Exterior: Paint is in great condition, just spent 2 entire days thoroughly polishing and waxing using mothers polish and carnauba wax 4/06/18 Panels are very straight, no dents Headlights and taillight lenses in great condition, also buffed and waxed NEW Genuine NISMO clear Side Indicators $70 Other: New spare Remote and key $80 Hicas Lock Mongoose Keyless alarm system and central locking GPS to phone security tracking system – allows you to track the car on a gps map, can even speak to the driver via car speakers or kill ignition all via your phone (never used it - installed by previous owner) Dashcam behind rearview mirror Fluids: Only ever used the Very best in fluids Engine: Joe Gibbs XP6 Racing Oil $35\L Gearbox: Redline lightweight Shockproof Gear oil Brakes+Clutch: Motul RBF600 $60/L Radiator: Wetter water Diff: Penrite LSD I will be completely honest and list every single fault I can think of on this car… NO SURPRISES: a small scratch in rear bar – nothing major the bolt on lip on front bar needs repairing on bottom edge, and paint on bottom of front bar isnt perfect – if you feel necessary a crack in rear of passenger headlight – has been removed, section sanded, cleaned with alcohol and fully sealed with 2 coats of JB weld (worlds strongest adhesive) – already fixed and sealed fully a small hole about the diameter of a AAA battery in the passenger seat - is not tearing or spreading there is some blemishing on drivers side mirror under glass – has not gotten worse in the 4 years ive had her A small bit of gutter rash on front passenger wheel - easy fixed, not very noticeable There is a small gear in fan box that needs repairing/replacing, causes a intermittent clicking sound for 5-10 secs when starting sometimes.. Tinting on rear windows isn’t perfect if I was to keep the car the next unnecessary things I would be looking at doing are: spend a few hundred on a really nice gear shift knob and replace suspension arms with upgraded tubular style ones new diff, although Nissan LSD’s are great already but as I said its not needed its just all that’s left unreplaced on the car IT IS ALMOST A BRAND NEW 2018 R33 NISSAN SKYLINE but better than Nissan ever built, it certainly drives like a brand new car with all drivetrain except diff brand spanking new All inspections by either yourself or your mechanic are welcome, please don’t hesitate to ask any questions I will answer them all as best I can – Or don’t hesitate to ask for more pics if interested, i have about 125 pics of car finished, as it was built, And motor internals, head etc as the motor was put together and much more

RB25DET is burning oil What's up, I am having trouble diagnosing what is causing my rb25det to burn oil. The engine is in a 240sx RHD, the following are the most critical parts of my setup: Great condition GTX3076R Garrett Turbo, new 740cc injectors, new head gasket, Fully built valves, new top mount manifold, new coolant/oil lines, new pistons, bored cylinders, 44mm wastegate, recirculating bov Deleted pcv system due to the rb26det valve cover conversion but I am atmospherically venting from the valve cover Oil weight is 10w-30 synthetic The car was running fine 6 months ago when I got the engine finally running but now it starts smoking as soon as I start it, cold or hot, the piece of misery will start smoking blue smoke. It will smoke as you start it, as you idle, as you accelerate, and especially if you rev it high. There is no oil in the turbo inlet. Please help me figure this out, thanks!

Bad piston rings or damaged cylinder walls? Recently, I opened a discussion on my excessive oil burning that my rb25det does and thanks to the help of many enthusiasts we concluded that it is bad piston rings or a damaged cylinder wall... or can it be both? Engine had a full upgraded rebuilt 6 months ago with it being bored over .020 over. It has been driven 1000 miles or 1609 kilometers since I have compression tested all my cylinders and it showed a psi of 50-70psi. When I did a wet test it shot up to 120-135psi My rb25det has a 1.5 cosworth head gasket so compression will be lower than normal My hopeful prediction is that the piston rings have seized, been installed improperly, or the rings are worn out. The reason why I don't believe its damaged cylinder walls is because every cylinder shows the same sign of compression loss and piston rings go out together. Cylinder walls are unlikely to all be damaged at the same time What do you guys think?

Hi peeps! Anyone here running a supercharged automatic V35? What have you done to the RE5R05A transmission, besides the usual Transgo Shift Kit and upgraded transmission cooler? Also, anyone ever swapped out a different automatic transmission into their V35 or "built" the current one for more power etc? Regards Nitz

Car - factory turbo auto series 2 r33 I am having some issues with boost after going full throttle. What seems to be happening is after doing 1 or 2 pulls typically in 3rd gear it will basically stop boosting the boost gauge will go up to maybe 3 or 4 so psi (running stock boost) and have the same constant exhaust note (loud drone) regardless of what gear it is in. To fix this i usually pull over turn the car off and wait 5 seconds then it returns to normal no constant exhaust note and boosts how it should. I think it might be worth noting the transmission Is pretty stuffed its the factory Auto gearbox and after warming up it will slip from 4th to 3rd with overdrive on and what sounds like 3rd slipping occasionally after heating up. I have changed the trans fluid and filter that seemed to prolong how long the gearbox took to slip. Any advice would be greatly appreciated i plan on manual swapping this car when i have the funds for a big box so if the trans is the issue it would be a relief.