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Showing results for tags 'boot'.
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Hey guys, Anyone around the Sydney/Wollongong area selling an R34 GTT coupe bootlid in white? Doesn't need to have a spoiler as I have one already but needs to be in good condition (no dings, scratches, rust etc). Cheers!
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https://www.rhdjapan.com/do-luck-carbon-aero-duck-tail-trunk-bnr34.html Hey guys, so I have done some real big time searching for his but no concrete yes, no. So don't hose me for "not using the search function". So is the r34 gtr (BNR34) boot lid compatible with the gtt chassis er34 I want to buy this trunk/lid for my er34 gtt 1998 as its the only non tacky looking duck-tail sorta look out there that i can find. If anyone knows if you can bolt a gtr lid on to a gtt chassis please let me know. -
hey guys, need some help. was helping a random guy out to save him a long walk with his suitcase, when he put his suitcase in the boot he slammed it shut as hard as possible. now the boot it stuck and I believe the valet switch has moved down. now the shit part, the previous owner of the car removed the key from the rear of the boot so you can only open it with the lever. it still has the rotating Nissan badge, but you can just see straight into the boot from the hole. so key is not an option. I have taken out the back seat, taken the access panel off, but can't get to the switch because the guys suitcase is in the way, and the smart fellow put it on its side instead of flat so I can't go over the top of it to find the valet switch. I don't know exactly where the valet switch is in the boot, so if someone could take pictures. ones that are not direct close ups so I can try get at it with something long, just need a better idea of where the latch is. other pictures I've found are all close ups. sorry for disorganised post, written on my phone in a foul mood and in a hurry
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Hi all, Thought I'd share my solution to holding the boot lid of my R33 GT-R up so it doesn't try and kill me. A little background: when I bought my car the gas struts were pretty dead. They'd hold the boot lid up but didn't really provide any assistance lifting it and a gust of wind or slight slope would send it falling down. The factory struts are built into the hinges, and are no longer available new. While my car was being resprayed I thought I'd get the paint guys to give me the strut/hinge units and see if I could get them regassed. Long story short I couldn't find anyone who could do that, but I did find someone who could replace them with new struts. The new struts were even modular so I could pop them of and change the amount of gas pressure in them as required to get them right. However there was a problem - the paint guys found the struts had fatigued the boot panel where they attach. I actually had to buy a new boot panel. We played around with the new struts, but basically anything with enough strength to hold the boot would require so much force to close that it would just fatigue the panel again. So for a long time I just had a piece of wooden dowel and a cloth to hold the boot up. Then my dad noticed that the bonnet stay from his Subaru Liberty would be about the right size, so we ordered one of those and it turns outs it's perfect! These are the parts you'll need. I believe Subaru sells them as a pack with everything you need. You'll also need to rummage up an appropriate bolt and washer (I used a Mitsubishi bolt from my old car). After we took these photos we also found the bolt didn't quite have enough purchase, so we made up a steel backing plate with little tabs on the end to hold onto so we could feed it into position. You could also use a nutsert. The prop comes with a rubber grommit that's the perfect size for this factory hole. You'll need to bend the prop ever so slightly so that when it's stowed it doesn't pop out at the end. You'll need to grind a little tab off the bracket - Dremel cut off wheel is your friend. The bracket works nicely mounted like this. I added some clear film underneath to stop it marking the paint too much. The prop rests nicely on this factory metal tab behind the right rear light. To get at it you'll need to cut a little of the boot liner carpet stuff away. This is what it looks like in position, stowed, and from the side to show how it holds the boot up: Anyway, hopefully this helps someone out. Please feel free to ask questions or let me know if you'd like more photos.
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Hey guys just wondering if R33 GTST boot will fit a GTR? Or are the boots different on GTR compared to the GTST
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Hey guys., NEW leather gear shift boot - $100 Does not include the plastic trim as I am currently using it with an Nismo Omori boot installed. Pickup from Peakhurst Heights of postage at buyers expense. -
Hi all I'm currently looking for a pair of tail lights for a R32 2 door, preferably with factory dark blue (paint code TH1) surrounds. I would also be interested in purchasing just the covers if anyone is just selling those. I'm also looking for a 2 door boot lid. Not worried about colour but would be a bonus if it had no holes in it. I'm located in ACT but happy to pay postage or travel if you're closeish Thanks, Nic
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Just wanted to share with everyone some concrete information regarding replacing boot struts on R33 skyline, specifically the GTR but I am sure the information will be transferable. The reason I am posting is that there wasn't much information regarding pressures & the ability to remove the strut from the bracket (requiring drilling). What I did ended up costing me $110. Below is a picture I pulled from another thread, this is the part of the strut that is hard to remove. Very hard, but not impossible. What we did was use my 10mm spanner and wedge it in between the ball and the strut, then slowly work the it off. It looks like it's going to snap the strut and it ends up destroying it, but that's ok because new ones are cheap. This is what mine looked like in the end. We ended up putting 100nm of pressure in each cyl. It holds the boot fine with a genuine GTR spoiler. If I had to do it again, I would put 150nm in each to see if it holds any better, BUT that 100 works just fine. Any questions please shoot them through.
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ok guys few things i found cleaning out the shed. looking for pick up only at the moment from point cook. west of melbourne, or can arrange to possiably meet in docklands where i work. all parts are ono contact me via sms on 0435 755 400 cheers Lee R32 boot lid will fit GTR and GTS T silver in color, paint not 100% $100 standard RB26 top pipe $100 standard RB26 cam cover $80 Some Greddy hoses and hard piping kit. this is NOT the complete kit only what you see $150 standard RB26 AFM not sure if in working condition $150 the pair standard RB26 air box $150 R32 maybe R33 ash tray $60 GTR clutch pedal $50 Blitz BOV $150 the pair standard RB26 plenum $100 RB26 coil cover $70 R32 GTR passanger side head light in good condition $100 Skyline bonnet underlay in good condition with clips $100 -
ITEM: R32 bootlid with welded up spoiler holes LOCATION: Blacktown (Sydney), NSW CONDITION: good straight and rust free. Burgundy in colour PRICE: $70 CONTACT: PM -
Looking for a r33 series 1 or 2 boot lid and spoiler in the dark gun metal grey colour in the Brisbane area, or willing to pay postage for the right boot. Need it ASAP so please email or MSG me. Jake [email protected] 0426255586
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ITEM: R33 bootlid including gas struts LOCATION: Sydney (west), NSW CONDITION: clean straight condition - no rust or dings PRICE:$120 CONTACT: PM ITEM: R33 rear bumper bar reo LOCATION: Sydney (west), NSW CONDITION: clean straight condition - no rust or dings PRICE:$60 CONTACT: PM
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Falken Semi Slicks; 245/45/17 plenty of tread, bought for a car that never raced. Stored in the shed away from sunlight. $600 for all 4. GTST Wheels and tyres; tyres won't be good for rego. $100 for all 4 R32 GTST Bonnet $50 Lining underneath is nearly perfect, few small scratches on the paint R33 Boot $50 red, no wing r33 standard intercooler $10 Everything is in Sydney south west, please ring 0400 604 293 during business hours. leave a message or text if unanswered. -
Hi all, Recently pulled the stereo out and replaced it with a Pioneer unit, painting the black plastics at the same time. However, the radio reception wasn't great - when we held the harness (including bracket, Climate control, single din head unit and ashtray) before screwing it in we were getting amazing, loud, crystal clear reception. However, as soon as we screwed it all in, the clarity faded, though you can still hear the radio fine. We're going to try again this weekend and get a good ground going - we feel it may have been grounding through the antenna. While the stereo was out, we found a pair of TV 'bunny ears' antenna (from the jap install with previous headunit that had TV function? The TV never worked for me).Also, there were quite a few proper connector plugs unplugged - is this where the automatic models would be plugged in? My vehicle is manual. I also found some RCA cables (L and R) that seemingly didn't fit anywhere. It seemed that when i turned the ignition 1 click when they were unplugged, there would be lots of whining noises coming from the dash. However, when they were plugged in, this seemed to subside - even if they weren't plugged into anything with output. Curious, i opened up the boot and took off the little cardboard/carpet section between the boot and the rear seats, and found these things (pictured) near the rear speakers on the parcel shelf. I receive frequencies for Triple J 105.7 and Triple M 104.9, so obviously at some stage in Australia (vehicle imported 2004 i believe, 1998 R34 GT-T) i had an FM expander installed. There is a 'Diversity' plug/antenna thing behind the stereo i believe. Are these things antenna amplifiers, or are they to do with the Hicas? I have had no experience with this before. Because of the RCA cables, (and whatever that thin blue wire is?) I suspect that the previous owner had amp and subs installed, and pulled out the power cables, when he sold (as well as the amp and subs - i own neither) because i can not find anything connected to the battery. If anyone could shed any light on what these things are, and possibly go all Sherlock Holmes and tell me what the previous owner got up to, it would be much appreciated! Finally, any suggestions on how to clear up radio reception is also welcome! will provide further information once i open it up again this weekend Cheers, Mick -
Hey guys, Member on here for a long time but haven't visited the forum in ages. Have a 95 R33 GTST I was pinching parts from for my R32 & it's time to get rid of the last of the parts & the shell. Everything I'm listing is in good condition (unless mentioned) but has been sitting round for a while so needs a clean & some TLC. Feel free to make any reasonable offers... * Boot (incl. spoiler, struts, interior trim, etc) Silver. No lock. $150 * Bonnet (needs respray) $75 * Electric antenna $50 * Sill panels $30 pair * Fuel flap (silver) $15 * Pass kick panel (with fuseholder) $15 * Rad support $30 * Roof grab handles $20 pair * Centre console (no lid or handbrake boot) $50 * Radiator shroud (NO cracks, etc) $30 * Cluster surround $20 * B/C pillar trim $50 pair * A pillar trim $25 pair * D/S front guard (Silver) $75 * Taillights $150 pair * Dash vent (passenger far side) $20 * Front seatbelts $30 pair * Roof dome lights (front & centre) $15 ea All prices are negotiable & located in Cranbourne, VIC. This is all the major parts (so please don't ask if I have gearbox, brakes, etc, etc) however there is a lot of small parts I haven't bothered listing so send me a PM or SMS if you have something small in mind as I may have it. Can be reached on 0423 303 007, preferably by SMS due to work. Can take pics of panels, etc for serious buyers but we all know what most of this stuff looks like...
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For sale Pair of Monza sports adr approved great condition no rips or tears have only been tested fitted $500 Arc bov + adapter pipe $150 Radiator to suit auto rb25 no leaks! $50 Custom boot install for r32 $150 located western sydney call/text 0425896150 -
So, Ive put up for years with a leaky boot in my R33. I even removed and re-sealed the rear lights (and what a PITFA that was) but no change. So I finally got off my arse and gave it another go trying to work out exactly where it was leaking from and my best guess now it that I think the water enters through the boot lid where the GTR style Nissan wing and the boot connect. I can see that the sealant is cracked most of the way around it and I think water must somehow enter through bolts? holding the wing to the boot. So, the question; How easy is it to remove the rear GTR style wing? is it just a couple of bolts and then a case of prying the sealant/boot/wing apart? Have you done this and fixed the leak? thanks
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As above, Cheers
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Hey guys, Got a few bits to get rid of. Item 1: R33 Metal Intake enclosure with K&N Pod. You need an FMIC to fit this, other wise a hole will need to be cut in the intake enclosure. Condition: Excellent Reason for sale: Decided to keep stock airbox with panel filter. Price: $100 Item 2: R33 Series 2 boot in Silver, no boot lock. Condition: Excellent Text for pics Price: $50 firm Item 3: R33 Series 1 wing in Silver Condition: Excellent Text for pics Price: $50 ono Take both boot and wing for $90 ono Item 4: R32 GTS-T Air Con. Includes all parts in the Engine bay plus extra compressor. Condition: Good Price: $150 ono might separate the parts if I get decent offers. Pick up in SW Syd Cheers -
Hey guys, need help with how to go about moving the battery to the boot in my r31. I've read a lot of information On how to go about it, but I am still unsure. I know all the battery has to be in a secured box and vented (which I've already done), but I'm more concerned with the wiring and what goes where. Would be great if anyone could show pictures step by step, as I can't find any specific DIYs on this topic. I also wish to put a fuse in the boot as a safety measure, but once again, lack the knowledge and direction with electrical matters such as these. help would be much appreciated.
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Hi all, For free is an Black R32 Boot with latch thingy. Spoiler holes have been welded up & bogged over (I'm guessing) & the bog in the middle of the boot could do with a sand back & re-bog. Location: Baldivis, WA PH: 0402682192 Cheers, Chris -
Black r34 gtt bonnet - BRISBANE Original black paint.Hinges and windscreen squirters are missing. Its straight and undamaged except it might need a respray on the top as the paint is blemished from an engine fire which can be seen in the pictures.The heat mat underneath is also damaged. Send an offer via PM if you need it.Pickup only at Algester South Brisbane. Asking $250. -
Stock mettallic black r34 gtt boot lid - Brisbane Original paint is in very good condition [just dirty in picture] but the boot has a small section of rust around the brake light & surface rust on one of the wing mount holes. Pickup only at Algester South Brisbane. PM me for more info.
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R34 GT-T Steering Wheel, Front Seats, Instrument Cluster Boot Lid + Spoiler Looking for R34 GT-T Steering Wheel, Front Seats, Instrument Cluster Boot Lid + Spoiler. Getting to the point where they're old, worn and need to be replaced. Cheers. -
WTB - VIC - R33 GTR boot entire boot trim, carpets etc As per title after all the boot trim, carpets, particle board insert and would entertain the spare tyre and jack. PM me and thanks!
