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Showing results for tags 'bootlid'.
Found 8 results
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Hey guys, Anyone around the Sydney/Wollongong area selling an R34 GTT coupe bootlid in white? Doesn't need to have a spoiler as I have one already but needs to be in good condition (no dings, scratches, rust etc). Cheers!
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ITEM: R32 bootlid with welded up spoiler holes LOCATION: Blacktown (Sydney), NSW CONDITION: good straight and rust free. Burgundy in colour PRICE: $70 CONTACT: PM -
Hi guys, I've got a spare bootlid and spoiler off a 2004 350gt coupe I want to get rid of as my plans have changed, was going to put it on my car but have since changed my mind and I'm in some financial debt. I would like to sell it to a Victoria/Melbourne buyer (so that's why I'm posting in the VICTORIA SECTION) because I need to cash fast....and it's too bulky to post. It's in perfect condition, no dents no scratches. Pictures: Please throw me some offers via PM or sms me on 0421 576 113. No ridiculous offers and NO lowballers please. thanks for looking
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As above, Cheers
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R32 (maybe R33/34?) boot/trunk lid lock remove and rekey Thought I would do a quick write up on how to remove the lock assy from the trunk/boot lid and re-key/re-code it to work with your existing door locks and ignition assy. I used the help of a video from YouTube for the actual re-key part, it made everything very simple. Tools required: Socket wrench and 10mm socket 10mm box end wrench Needle nose pliers Set of precision/jewelers screwdrivers This video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FX2AH9-isPA *Optional* Small dainty fingers you got from your mom's side, not manly sausage fingers like dad First step, get your boot/trunk lid, and flip her over, nice and gentle.:nervous: You should see two 10mm bolts holding on the catch or latch assy (not sure what to label it). Remove those bolts and pull off the assy. I will say, looking back, this "might" not have to be removed, but it made it easier for me to see behind there for the actual lock assy. Next, you'll want to locate the flat piece of metal holding the lock assy on. It has enough of a catch on it for you to get your finger on and pull whichever direction to get it off the lock assy. As far as I can tell, this is what helps hold the assy onto the lid. So make sure you don't lose it and/or bend/break it. You should now be able to push the lock assy out the lid. Now, move over to your work area so you can begin disassembly. From here on out, I pretty much followed the video's instructions, pausing it each step. Of course it's a different vehicle, but they work the same way and have similar parts. Make sure to take your time and DO NOT lose any of those springs! Pay attention to the direction things were before you remove them. I would even go as far as taking pictures on your cell phone before doing a step, that way you have a reference to go back to in case you get stuck. The precision screw driver is a must, made it so easy to get parts off and pry little tabs up. *NOTE* how the black metal cover appears to be angled, make sure it goes back the same direction* Here I just stuck the screwdriver in between the spring and twisted. Here I paid attention to which tumblers went down and which stayed up. That kind of helped in figuring out which to move around, since they all should go down when the key is stuck in. Just pry em' out! Turn over (maybe give a lil love tap, gently). Be careful! Of course i kept them segregated, I just made one side top and one side bottom in my head and kept them that way and in order from closest to where the key goes in to the end, just in case. Switch them around, til you get the key to go in and all the tumblers go down. Sorry, no pic of that, but should self explainitory on that one. Basically switch back and forth between these two steps: until they all go down and you can rotate the assy with the key inserted. IF you get them all moved around and one or two won't quite go down enough to be able to roate it, then you might have to file down a tumbler, til it works. I had no issues, matter of fact, had one and a spring left over, haha. :nervous: Re-assy is just reverse of steps. Hope this was helpful to someone. Please feel free to make any corrections or give any tips. -
R34 GTT Parts for Sale NSW Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Parts for Sale: · Standard Wheels Painted no centre caps $350 · Tail Lights $120 · Bootlid no spoiler holes $400 · Bootlid (shaved keyhole) no paint $100 · Standard Intake Rubber $50 · Cross Overpipe polished $70 · Airbox Snorkel $60 · R34 ECU $80 · R34 Air Flow Meter $70 · Bootlid Spoiler $140 · Roof Spoiler $120 · Weathershields NEW $80 · Standard Dump Pipe $50 · Engine Cover $120 · Climate Control Unit $120 · Cam Covers $140 Series 2 front bar (intercooler cutout) $80 -
All parts are located in South Sydney available for pickup or postage at buyers expense. 1. R32 GTR Stock radiator - works perfectly, as seen on the picture there as a small break in the top pipe bit, could do with a flush - $50 2. Blitz dual turbo timer - works great $40 3. R32 GTR bootlid and Twing - black, as seen in the pic there is lifting where the original wing holes were needs a paint - $50 4. R32 GTR stock intercooler - works perfectly, as seen in the pic some fins are pushed in a bit, not visable when the front bar is on - $50 5. R32 GTR under bonnet carpet - $40 6. R32 GTR gearstick and stereo surround - two top clips have been properly glues n place as they were cracked no probs otherwise- $40 7. R32 GTR Aircon condenser - $50 8. R32 GTR stock caster arms - $30 9. R32 GTR intercooler brackets - $5 10. R32 GTR blow off valve return pipe to airbox - $20 11. R32 GTR front cusco height adjustable (not sure about damper) need regas-rebuild, unknown spring rates- $100 12. R32 GTR gearbox crossmember - $50 13. R32 GTR hicas thing (lol) - $50 14. R32 GTR bonnet hinges - $20 15. R32 GTR washer bottle - $5 15. R32 GTR stock dump pipes - $20 16. R32 GTR cam cover - $30 17. R32 GTR front camber arms, unknown brand - $20 18. R32 GTR front bar intercooler mesh - $40 PM or SMS 0423932605 cheers
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Hi guys, I have some parts that are looking for a new home as I need more space in my garage! All parts are located in Hornsby with pick-up preferred. Please contact me either via PM or at [email protected] if you have any questions. - S15 diff (centre and a few bits): $100 - S15 dual mass flywheel, clutch and all bolts: $75 - S15 standard anti-roll bars front and rear: $25 each - S15 Aero rear wing and boot lid (pewter): $250 - S15 front calipers, rear calipers, rear rotors, master cylinder, pads: $200 - R32 GTR front discs (drilled - 50% after machining): $30 - R33 front discs (plain - 70%): $75 - 4" cat back exhaust 'Fujitsubo Giken' (JASMA001): $250 - 'ZZ' pedal attachment set (x3): $5 - S15 intercooler with all plumbing and fittings: $50 - S15 suspension arms (camber arms and traction arms): $45 pair or $70 for the lot - S15 left rear light cluster: $75 - Nismo S-tune (G-Attack) rear struts for S15 (56210-RNS50, KYB, YF06): $125 - GAB coilovers: $600 Adjustable height and shock rate gas platform struts. Front is top plate adjustable as well. The coilovers were on the S15 when I imported it with 47,000kms - so have travelled less than that. Front springs: HST80170-62 (8kg, 170mm), Rear springs: HST60250-62 (6kg, 250mm). One front adjustment collar is cracked and now has a clamp to hold it - as per the photograph. Thanks, Daniel
