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Showing results for tags 'camber'.
Found 24 results
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Hi guys, I was washing my car today and noticed that my wheels had some negative camber on both the front and rear more so the rear, that is the bottom end is slightly sticking out a little. I checked and the wheel is attached tightly to the hub etc so this must be a camber arm thing. A few of my friends also have this on their cars so just wondering if this is normal? Below is a photo of this from some sources on the web to illustrate my point. -
As the title suggests, does anyone know what components are available to increase the amount of negative camber in the rear of an NM35 Stagea? I'm slowly attempting to create a 'VIP'/'bippu' style build but I can't find a whole lot of parts to suit the NM35. Currently I have fitted Driftworks Front Upper Camber Arms to suit a 350z and have gotten to -6 deg happily but the rear is sitting at -5 deg with only a coilover installation. I do have 350z Rear Camber Arms but they seem to only be able to mount to adjust toe. At this stage its looking like most components will have to be fabricated.
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Hi All, I am having some issues with the steering on my car. It only started all of a sudden and before anyone jumps to the conclusion LOL, No i havent hit any gutters, gone kerb surfing or putting the wagon sideways, or had any accidents. When i first bought the car it drove dead straight about a month ago the car started pulling left. It was pretty bad to start with but now is really bad. I went and had the wheels aligned and the only adjustable thing is the Toe in/Toe out settings and they are perfect now (they were off by quite a bit). Oddly enough this made no bloody difference to the way the car drives. I have checked the heights of all 4 coilovers and they are perfectly level. I also measured from centre of wheel cap to wheel arch lip and all is fine. They are Mines/Ohlins coilovers and are set by notches in the strut and can only be adjusted by ripping them out of the car and putting them back in. The Camber is off by 0.5deg. Left side is -2.0deg and RHS is -1.5deg which would actually push the car to the right. So ive ruled out Camber and Toe. So im left with Caster which is quite off. LHS is -ve and RHS is +ve. There is no uneven tyre wear and all i can think of is that the Caster is off but since the 260rs doesnt have adjustable Casters and they are really effing strong pieces of metal how can it suddenly be off without any of the earlier mentioned fun and games? I have inspected the Caster bushes and the ball joints and had my wheel alignment guy look at it and he said that there are no damaged or cracked bushes in my setup. So my question is this, what could be the cause? and how do i fix it?
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Chaps, Got a couple of quick questions I'm sure someone will be able to answer. I've done a search, but there is a mixed variety of opinions/results, and I wanted to make sure before I start ripping shit apart. 1) I'm told the R34 GTT (2000 model) has factory eccentric camber bolt adjustment. Is this correct? 2) Working of the above being correct, how much camber adjustment will I get? I've read anywhere between 0.5 degrees, and 1.5 degrees, but more toward the lesser side of adjustment. 3) I'm running a set of 17" Work CR Kais, 17x8 +35. Given the relative sensible approach to these offsets, I'm imagining that with a small drop, not a huge amount of camber adjustment is going to be necessary, but I'd like to hear from others who have done similar. 4) If all the above is incorrect, and the factory system has 0 adjustment, a KCA348 control arm upper outer bushing camber correction kit will work, yeah? Thanks in advance gents. Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers, Shazza
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For Sale Adjustable rear camber arms brand new never used suit r32 $150 Arc Bov + adapter pipe good condition $100 Stainless steel front pipes mid section and muffler 3.5inch $200 Jasma Veilside muffler 3.5inch needs end rewelded $75 negotiable located western sydney call/text 0425896150
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hi, cleaning out my garage and this is a bunch of bits and bobs ive had left over after owning GTR's for 5 years. was keeping them as spares etc, but car is gone, no longer need them. Most are off a R34 GTR. but alot of them fit r32 r33 and gtst skylines etc. R34 GTR factory suspension/coil overs $200 ono (good for spares incase of yellow) GTR factory front camber arms $50 R33/R34 factory washer bottle $10 R34 GTR front and side indicators $30 for both pairs (including bulbs) R32/R33 single coil pack $20 (used as spare to diagnose problems etc) GTR rb26 front left+right intercooler piping $20 each GTR rb26 air intake pipe $15 Rb26 heater/coolant hoses $20 the lot GTR rb26 factory air snorkal $20 (rare to find) high pressure rad/factory rad/oil/ caps $5 (lol) It felt like a shame to through this stuff out. Prices are well below what any of this would set you back for wreckers. just make offers want it all out of the garage. if you want more than one thing make an offer. sorry it wouldn't work when i tried to upload pics, so here is a link to the photos Call or text on 0432497290 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/dianella/brakes-suspension/r32-r33-r34-gtr-factory-parts-suspension-indicators-piping-coils/1051085603 -
Hey guys, ive got a question I couldn't specifically find the answer to. Is toe affected when adjusting rear camber on an R33 GTST, using adjustable rear camber arms (upper arms), like these? >> If it is affected, how much would it change vs camber? Does that makes sense? ie. I adjusted the rear camber myself, adding about 1 degree positive. From my measurements & calculations, around -1.8 deg >> to -0.8 deg. (possibly off, but moved + towards zero some amount) 18 inch wheels, so lip to lip, rim height measures 495mm. Cheers -
Message me if you have a pair of adjustable rear camber arms for r34gtt in good condition I'm located in Brisbane but am happy to pay for postage GKTECH website lists these as same size too... Vehicle Compatibility: - Nissan 180sx - Nissan S13 Silvia - Nissan S14 200SX - Nissan S15 200SX - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR - Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T - Nissan Skyline R33 GTR - Nissan Skyline R34 GTR - Nissan C33 - Nissan C34 - Nissan C35 - Nissan A31 Cefiro
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Hi all, Ok I've bought my first GTR, and its rough but got it for a good price, least I think anyway.. Ok my problems are.. The inside front tyres are fkd, The camber is huge and I have no idea how to fix it. I tried to search as much as I could regarding this before posting but couldnt find much. Yes it makes sense to take it into a shop, but after saving to buy this i'm left with little coin to do much. Could someone point me in the rite direction as to what would be the causes. Please see attached pics of camber and tyre wear, i'm really hoping I have not bought a mess... Please help me out. -
Hi SAU, Once again looking for your expert advice I'm chasing lap times in an r33 gtst, specifically at wakefield park in nsw (i'm on a personal quest so no instructors and car must remain street rego'd) At last outting, it got 1:09.6 and was good for 9 flat or really high 8 but i ran outta fuel =/ Vital specs during this outting were: -gt2871r for 260rwkw -bc br coilovers (has not been corner weighted yet) -adjustable front/rear swaybars and f/r strut bars -minor weight reduction -Hicas lockbar and fairly tight shimmed diff -Usual minor brake upgrades like pads,rotors,lines, standard calipers -gtr spoiler set to max, no front undertray, raised bonnet -Nitto nt-01 245/45 on 8" front, 255/40 on 9" rear -Mild alignment (from memory, around 1.8 neg camber front, 1.6 neg camber rear, castor at 7 degree via offset bushes, 0.7mm toe out per side front, 0.5mm toe in per side rear). Car still has all stock arms Since then, the car blew the turbo so that was replaced and is now running bit over 300rwkw, rear tire replaced with 275/45 on the same 9" wheel... I'm wanting to get into low 8's or maybe really high 7's and now wanting to dial in a much more aggressive alignment and realise i need to get a bunch of arms for this? QUESTION: What arms do i need to get for roughly what alignment and are there any other mods or setup i should change ? Or do all the factory arms do a reasonable job and i'm wasting my time doing all/some of them ?? Is there anything else i should be looking at ? I'm aware of the need for f/r undertray and will have a go making some out of signboard when i'm bored... I've been thinking of doing subframe bush collars as well, if that makes any difference. Car will be getting 'set-up' at east coast suspension properly if arms were to be done etc. THANKS TL;DR Wants much fast, is suspension arms gud and which ones to buy/adjust? Or save moneyz -
Selling these Cusco R32 solid camber arms. Fit R32, Z32 Part no: Cusco 231479AB $240 posted Pickup from Bayside, Melbourne
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Stagea C34/M35 Parts & Viper Alarm Hi all, I used to own a 1997 C34 auto Nissan Stagea and a 2002 NM35 auto Nissan Stagea and have some spare parts lying around and would like to sell them. I have uploaded some pictures and can send more via email or sms. 1 x Viper alarm system 5806V with GPS tracking and remote start with additional tilt and audio sensors - Brand New - $850 1 x C34 stock exhaust (I think I have turbo back) - $100 1 x C34 stock wheel - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 viscous LSD - $300 1 x C34 fuel tank with no fuel pump - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 prop shaft (requires reconditioning) - $50 1 x R32 GTR Nismo fuel pump - used and in good condition - $220 1 x RB25DET JJR blue silicone heater hose set (missing 2 pieces) New - $80 1 x RB25DET valley cover (please note the snorkel pictured has been sold) - $20 3 x Camber correction Superpro and Whiteline Bushes (SPF3154K, SPF1869K & KCA347) - New - $300 for the lot or $120 each 6 x RB26DETT stock pistons and rods. I may have RB25 and/or also RB30 pistons and rods. $50 for the lot. 1 x M35 Stock ECU - $150 1 x M35 HKS SLD to remove 180km/hr speed cut (NEW) - $350 6 x M35 stock injectors - $50 1 x M35 stock intercooler and fan - $50 1 x M35 stock turbo actuator - $50 That's all I can think of now. If you have any questions please feel free to pm me. I'm located at Derrimut, Victoria. I am also happy to post at buyer's expense. Cheers, Kandio -
Wheel alignment I've searched and found some info but nothing overly comprehensive. I have attached the specs for alignment for a v36 coupe from the service manual of a G37 (assume they are the same). I've got an SP coupe but assume it doesn't matter if it's a sport or not. From my understanding caster is adjustable front and rear. Alignment same. But camber is only adjustable in the rear which is only minor adjustments. No camber adjustment in the front on stock suspension. Getting it done on the weekend (along with sway bars) so hoping this is all correct.
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R32 Adjustable Arms Hi guys, I'm chasing front castor rods, rear traction arms, rear camber arms and a Hicas Lock bar or Delete Kit for my 32. I am in Brisbane, so can pick up locally but will also pay postage for the right item. Thanks, Aaron
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Removing an rb25de/det + gearbox Before I get any heroes, leave your negativity with your huge ego ay what do i need? - a simple but detailed explanation of how to remove an rb25de/det + gearbox. but anyway, hopefully this is an easy one for yous I searched, read, and googled a lot. But, I haven't the right forums or a detailed enough explanation to run with. So, what im asking is if there is anyone on here that believes that they 'know' the best/right way of removing an rb25de/det engine + gearbox. This will a first time experiencing removing an engine plus box so the more detailed and well explained tutorial the smoother this process will go. I have watched a lot of videos, which has covered a lot of steps to remove an engine. Though It seems almost no one does it the same way, some people remove a lot of components where some only remove 'the basics'. Watching lots of different videos and reading stacks of information is pretty overwhelming. If someone could post a thread, find a thread, link me a thread/ video/ anything that you think would help it would be appreciated. what do i need? - a simple but detailed explanation of how to remove an rb25de/det + gearbox.
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R34 sedan Camber needed Hey everyone, Just trying to find out some more information on extended lcas for my 34 sedan. I have heard a few different requirements on what is needed. I want to extend my lcas by 30mm . I need to know what other modifications go with this. I have adjustable Cusco camber arms that I will fit at the same time, but need to know what else needs to happen to make it all work. I've searched through a bunch of forums and found nothing 100%. Hopefully someone here can help me out! Thanks, Alex
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If you have swapped your front, upper, outer camber bushes for adjustable ones (ie. Whiteline, SuperPro, Nolathane, etc. etc) I would like to buy your old bolts! Here is my predicament... all the adjustable units use an "eccentric bush" design, and these use crush tubes which are threaded at either end and come with their own bolts: The original unit, however, is an unthreaded crush tube, which has one long bolt that goes all the way through, with a nut on the other end. I have had the adjustable units for some time, but now I am upgrading to adjustable castor arms, and I need the original bolts. The workshop which fitted mine has I think discarded my original bolts. If you still have your original bolts, I'll give you $20 plus postage for them It would save me a long wait for the parts to come from Japan. Alternatively, if you have any other ideas, I'm all ears... I think the R33 and R34 (GTST, GTT and GTR) all used the same bolts, but RWD stagea is different (S14). Cheers DaveB
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ZSS Racing Hey all, Looking at buying some upper camber arms for my R34 soon and was wondering if anyone's had any experience with ZSS Racing. They seem to be an Australian based company and offer free shipping within Aus, so they work out at around $475 for a set of front uppers (for context the same parts from Cusco are $400 including shipping). I've heard Japan is the way to go for parts, but if anyone can give me some good feedback on these guys I'd be inclined to consider them (they offer some pretty solid package deals). If not I'll either go Cusco or Sun Line. Cheers
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Selling a pair of 32 GTR Ikeya formula upper camber arms for the front. They should give around -3 negative camber. Hardly used, great condition (see pics) these have chunky rubber bushes with inserts, not like other weak shit on the market! $495 (postage within Australia inclusive) -
Long shot but... Chasing the front upper camber arm mount brakets for r32 gtr/gtst Looking for the nismo ones May consider standard type if they are cheap Im in sydney but will do what ever it takes to get these if someone has a set! Thankyou! 0419469108 or pm !
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For Sale 1 x KCA348 Whiteline front camber kit (+/-0.5) http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA348&sq=16752 $99 ono Used but still in great condition (<15000km old) Reason for replacement = new adjustable upper arms = back to standard bush kit Suits R33 and R34 all models Easy to fit yourself Located in SE Melbourne or will ship at buyers expense PM or txt me on 0402213701 -
All parts are located in South Sydney available for pickup or postage at buyers expense. 1. R32 GTR Stock radiator - works perfectly, as seen on the picture there as a small break in the top pipe bit, could do with a flush - $50 2. Blitz dual turbo timer - works great $40 3. R32 GTR bootlid and Twing - black, as seen in the pic there is lifting where the original wing holes were needs a paint - $50 4. R32 GTR stock intercooler - works perfectly, as seen in the pic some fins are pushed in a bit, not visable when the front bar is on - $50 5. R32 GTR under bonnet carpet - $40 6. R32 GTR gearstick and stereo surround - two top clips have been properly glues n place as they were cracked no probs otherwise- $40 7. R32 GTR Aircon condenser - $50 8. R32 GTR stock caster arms - $30 9. R32 GTR intercooler brackets - $5 10. R32 GTR blow off valve return pipe to airbox - $20 11. R32 GTR front cusco height adjustable (not sure about damper) need regas-rebuild, unknown spring rates- $100 12. R32 GTR gearbox crossmember - $50 13. R32 GTR hicas thing (lol) - $50 14. R32 GTR bonnet hinges - $20 15. R32 GTR washer bottle - $5 15. R32 GTR stock dump pipes - $20 16. R32 GTR cam cover - $30 17. R32 GTR front camber arms, unknown brand - $20 18. R32 GTR front bar intercooler mesh - $40 PM or SMS 0423932605 cheers
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I recently got rear upper camber arms installed on my R33 and I told them to adjust it to 0 degrees camber as it was going to be a street/drag car. But now I have alot of scrubbing problems with my 19x9.5 +38's and my 17x9 +26's? What do people do to combat this but also keep a nice wide contact patch. I will need to get the guards rolled and pushed out if possible but what else can be done? Thanks -
Hi all, just clearing out parts scattered in my garage. 1. R33-R34 (2WD & 4WD/S14/S15/C34C35 Silvia/Skyline/Laurel & Stagea (2WD & 4WD) Garage Miniz Camber Arms - less then 50km usage on them, not your typical chinese crap $140 2.S14/S15/R32/R33/R34/C33/C34/C35/Z32/A31/Y32/Y35 Silvia/Skyline/Ceffie/Laurel/Cima/Gloria/Stagea Garage Miniz Toe Arms (non hicas only) - less then 50km usage on them not your typical chinese crap $140 Paid $220 each for these awhile back. http://www.garageminiz.com/parts.html 3. R34 GTR OEM Black Alloy fenders with OEM indicators - Paint is in excellent condition, stored in bubble wrap, never got around to fitting the, came off Chuey's sexy Z tune styled R34 GTR $450 4. R34 GTR Carbon Wing blade, needs custom alloy end plates in 2mm thickness to fit, alternatively you can shave the blade down 2mm on each side and use the OEM end plates, or run it without the end plates with a 2mm gap on each end but there will be no adjusitibility, brand new and no damage, in excellent condition purchased from DOR134's group buy and no longer needed $90 FIRM 5. Defi style 60mm black face gauges - Boost/Oil Temp/Oil Pressure; only boost gauge has been used for a week then removed, others are brand new and all gauges still have protective plastic on front of gauge. some scratches on casing, exact functions real defi's for a fraction of the price $130 for all 3, otherwise $50 ea comes with a free sandwhich plate for oil sensor fittings! Suit RB's. 5a. MearCat.com.au dual gauge pod suit 52mm gauges, made from strong fibreglass$50 FIRM RRP $99 + delivery & $5 per hole drilling http://mearcat.com.au/ 6. HKS/Earls oil cooler suit R34 GTT/R33 GTST w/ Thermostat - non relocation type HKS thermostat/block fitting, Earls customer braided lines and core fins are in good condition, no damage to core or lines/fittings, $250 7. Zeal Function Front coilovers suit R32/R33/R34 $70 springs alone cost more than this, they are well used, eye mount bushing is in good nick still, however shocks are near dead and will suit as a temp solution or to keep a car rolling 8. R33 GTST 5x1 rear half shafts > diff to Hub looks like these but with a bit more surface rust $50 9. R32 GTR non brembo brake rotors, still some meat left and lots of surface rust due to being outside $20 10. Blitz DD Venturi BOV, comes with universal flange with hose fitting; held 18PSI fine, no front piece attachment $50 11. R33 GTS/GTST/GTR Carbon A pillar covers - stick on by 3m or sikaflex - your choice, has a minor chip in one, $40 FIRM 12. R34 GT/GTT/GTR carbon windshield/wind deflectors/rain deflectors - fit by 3m double sided tape and sikaflex for extra strength. has a small hairline crack in it, purchased from DOR134's group buy but no longer needed $50 FIRM fitment pictures here: http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6292930 13. AVS Model 7 18x8.5 +38 (if i recall) pair of rims with thrashed tyres, sprayed black but no damage to rims and in good condition; $150 looks like these; Items are located in Sydney near Gladesville or Orange Grove, prices are ONO unless FIRM is stated and excludes postage! Interstate buyers to pay for all postage costs. this is all i can find atm, i will add more in the coming days as i uncover some stuff! Thanks for looking,
