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Been having trouble looking for cams that would be good for a 20e and was wondering if I could use 20det cams in the 20e (yes I know it is SOHC just wondering :)) not planning on swapping the engine, just wanna have some fun with the 20e

First item HKS Step 2 Cams (IN and EX) for RB26 $800.00 Used, but in good condition. Came from an R33 GT-R PRICE NEGOTIABLE Cams Specs: Intake cam: 264 10.2mm Exhaust cam: 272 10.0mm Gives a nice lumpy sound, if that's what your're into. Located in Casey area, Victoria. PICK-UP ONLY (willing to meet elsewhere, if i'm too far) Second item Custom 2.9L Stroker Kit for RB26 (pistons, rods, and crank) $3000.00 Not sure what it's truly worth, so PRICE NEGOTIABLE! Located in Casey area of VIC. For now, not willing to separate the parts as the pistons and crank only work for this kit. Kit was developed in SA by a company named Rhemac. Ideally this kit would suit someone chasing cheap easy power, using a virgin bore or brand new RB26 block (due to piston size). Has cracked 481kw on a hub dyno (HKS 2530s, e85, Vipec V88) and 435kw on roller dyno (same specs). Final tune was 426kw by RacePace Motorsport. Specs: Pistons: 86mm CP forged pistons and rings. Custom design. Pistons do have markings on the sides, however still usable. Recommend them getting re-coated. Custom in terms of shortening comp height (distance from gudgeon centre line to crown of the piston). Rods: Eagle h-beam rods, standard RB26 size. Only part in this kit that can be used standalone. Comes with ARP 2000 rod bolts. Crank: Custom made RB30 crank (yes that's right VL crank), nitrided and balanced with collar fitted (what my research is telling me). Basically the kit creator has shaved down the counter weights so it all just fits in the RB26 cradle/block. In saying that, the crank still brushes on the piston oil squirters, though the kit was inside my car and was used for over 40,000KMs was working well enough. I can discuss the reason why I decided to change my engine from this privately, as it is quiet a long story. The kit works and gives a lot of torque. No it's not the most efficient or reliable but if you're chasing an easy means for power (racecar anyone?) this kit is great for that. I don't claim to know the ins and outs of this kit. I'm simply going off the paperwork I received from the previous owner, as well as forum posts from the kits creator. If genuinely interested, I can get you in touch with my mechanic who can definitely do a better job at explaining the details, as they took my old engine apart with this kit in it. PICK UP ONLY

was going on my 33 gtr but looking for more streetable cam

Proud owner of an RB25 R34 Skyline running 85.

can someone please help me i removed my exhaust cam pulley and i don't know how to set it back correctly.

I have a set of Kelford L182-c camshafts for sale to suit rb26. They came with a new motor I bought and have been used in run in off the new motor, dyno guy has said lucky to have done 200kms. Can be confirmed by dyno shop. Im removing to go a smaller setup. As im using and older style turbo/manifold setup. 280 degree street/strip camshafts. With no cylinder head clearancing required. $750 ono pickup Camden/Ingleburn nsw 0410993105.

I’m looking to upgrade the cams on my engine it is a rb25det neo and am after advice on what To buy and what else I can upgrade thanks!

Hi, Have a few parts leftover from a rebuild/upgrade to my R33 GTS-T. RB25 Factory Camshafts. These came out of my S2 Rb25, they look in really good nick. Don't ask me lift or duration as I have no idea, whatever factory specs are, these are - $200 Stainless Steel High-Mount Manifold and Wastegate. This setup supported over 300kw with a 3076 on it. No cracks, in reasonable condition. Only took off to go 6Boost - $250 I also have an X-Force dump pipe that used to bolt up to the 3076 if interested. Factory Radiator. Looks shitty but worked fine. Upgraded to PWR with integrated coolers - $50 Tomei IN Cam Gear. Bought in error, don't actually need it. Brand new in box - $200 This suits RB20/RB25/RB26 All prices are free postage Aust Wide. Thanks.

Hi guys Looking for a set of cam retaining caps for a rb26 as I have miss placed mine. I am aware that they will need Line boring to suit my head but if anyone knows of any would be great Cheers...

Hi guys selling my cams out of my RB26, they are tomei procams 270-10.25. They are not drop in cams, they require the head to be machined because of the lift and also upgraded valve springs. Done about 6,000ks Asking $500ono Christian 0423 756 123 located in Melbourne, Vic

Hey all, First up YES I have searched the forums and google thoroughly and have not found a conclusive answer to my question, secondly please don't come on here asking - 'Why are you deleting VCT? It's better for low-mid range blah blah' because I'm upgrading to cams that are not compatible for VCT for a higher powered build. Currently building up my R33 RB25DET to support (aiming towards) 300-350rwkw on Pump 98. I know that is a huge variation in a power figure but I am not banking on a specific number, the engine/mods are being build to support that power but as to how safe the end result is is ultimately up to the tune/tuners. The head is away getting ported/polished/dedagged etc... and I am buying a set of Camtech cams - specs as follow: IN/EX 272deg IN/EX 9mm Lift No vvt/vct on inlet My question is. With the head off, is there any additional welding/filling up of oil galleries in the head in order to delete the VVT/VCT? Or is it just as simple as removing/blocking up the existing sensor? I don't particularly want to have the sensor hanging out the side of the head when it's not in use as I was hoping to just screw in a threaded bung. I have the two adjustable cam gears ready to go and the aftermarket ECU is a Link G4.

Hey guys, I've tried searching but couldnt really find much. Currently making 347 rwkw hks2540's i think - full boost of 22psi at around 5500 ish powerfc tomei adj gears bosch 044 ported manifolds hks dumps hi-flow cat z32 afms sard 800's Running standard internals NOW to my question... How can i increase turbo response? Cams? What cams would be suitable Im hoping something along the lines of drop in i.e. keeping everything else stock. I want a reliable driver also - and im 100% sure this car wont see a track day or drag strip plus i have shift light set at 7000rpms. Lag is starting to annoy me and i really don't know what to do.. i cant afford to take out the turbos and buy and sell -9's or -5's.. What can i do to make the lag a little bit better/bearable? Please don't flame, I'm asking a genuine question. Thanks all

hello Just selling my cams and springs and water pump as i dont need them at the moment, all items are brand new and never used only opend to check the items and take photos : 1 set of Rb26dett tomei pon cams Type B for a r32/33 GTR part Number #143005 1 set of SupterTech springs,retainers and seats part number #SPR-TS1015/rb26 1 set of tomei Cam gears to suite RB part number # 152009 IN and #152010 EX 1 N1 water Pump for nissan. part NUmber #21010-24u27 asking $2300 ONO. items are located in brisbane can ship items within australia at buyers expense. Please PM or can text Me on 0415298948 will try to get back to you as soon as i can. Cheers

hey guys just after advice and help with cams and there specs can anyone help me have know idea what the degrees mean and am wondering what would be the right cams to put into my drifter?

S14 Bolt in CAMS cage with CAMS paperwork. Single piece. Fits sunroof & normal models. Price: $600 Location: Boxhill Reason for sale: upgrading to weld in cage.

For sale are some rb26 parts from a running r32 gtr. Posting from townsville. Contact email: [email protected] text: 0434916740 NEW Supertech Pistons 86.5mm/8.5cr part no: p6-rb26/86.50-8.5cr $550 All parts below have done just under 8000km. HKS Stage 1 cams with unknown adjustable cam gears INLET, 2202-RN124 Duration 264. Lift 8.7mm step 1 EXHAUST, 2202-RN127 Duration 272. Lift 8.7mm step 1 $500 Spool Rods $450 Obx 11mm Fuel Rail & Aeroflow fuel pressure regulator and fittings $200 RC Fuel injectors 750cc with clips PL4-0750 bosch style clip $400 Supertech Dual Valve Springs With ti-retainer Part number: SPRK-m1007d/rb $400 (also comes with inner washers to go between head and spring)

- 32 gtr radiator GC $50 - 32 gtr intercooler $50 - 32 gtr intercooler piping with bov's and polished turbo pipe $150 - rb26 bottom factory bottom end with pick up, no sump perfect for rebuild $300 - 87mm cp pistons in GC $200 - rb26 eagle rods $150 - 87mm bored and honed rb26 block $200 match rods and pistons - 2x 32 gtr turbos and lines $200 - rb26 cams and cam gears $130 -rb26 long nose crank $300 have other parts sensors etc just stripped a motor but plans changed...also have 32 gtr in pretty good condition all panels front bar, brakes, abs, exhaust everything! Just txt or send a message on SAU located in brisbane need these parts gone 0421883199

I just needed the timing belt changed but even that turned out to be complex with this car. I knew I bought a well modified one but I expected most tuner garages would be able to set my mind at ease when changing a belt. I bought a new belt, tensioner, idler and water pump to go on, I thought that was easy enough but it took about an hour for them to get the uprated balancer off. I can say I got slightly angry at them when they attempted to use a crow bar instead of the correct puller tool to do this. Eventually they got the right puller tool and as expected, it came off nicely. It's good to know everything was nice and clean down there, no visible leaks, no major wear that needs looking into so I'm happy from that perspective. So, I did let them know that my timing was set at 20 degrees and that the intake and exhaust cams were offset at various mm settings on the HKS gears. Why on earth I found 'tip-ex' on the engine I will never know, surely there's a better way of determining the positions or some way of locking the cams/crank. If you thought that was a nightmare, this is where the trouble really begins and my mechanical knowledge probably doesn't help at this point: - The way they had marked it had the the crank offset by 1 tooth from its position (there is a little notch on the crank that shows this). They didn't align the gears and crank to where they are when you usually set a timing belt up because the said that the timing was different. I knew the engine was set up at 20 degrees so I just trusted that they knew what they were doing. At this point, all done, no interference and boom, CAS back on, in the center where it was marked with tip-ex. The engine didn't start, it just backfired and I'm suddenly panicking that they're breaking my car. So, they check a few things as they didn't seem to believe me when I said that I've never flooded the engine by just turning it on and off before so it shouldn't just flood randomly if it's set up properly. It does have big injectors though so I see their point. So after taking the packs off and checking all is where it should be, the engine, once again, backfires and doesn't start. Upon determining this was a timing issue, they proceeded to strip it all down again and at this point said they had no choice but to put the crank at the notch, put the cam gears at their set positions and try again. All done, ready to start and the car just started backfiring again and at this point, they were saying that I needed to get the person who built the engine to tell me how it was set up so that they could get it right. I pulled out my phone and gave an experienced engine builder a call who said that the problem sounded like they had snapped the little 'D' inside the CAS off and that no matter where the CAS was positioned, I'd never have the correct timing. We checked, and I had to put the builder on the phone with the mechanic as they were trying to tell me that I was misunderstanding but I knew what was going on now, the 'D' was missing from the cam and thus the CAS wasn't positioned correctly. The builder told them to inspect thoroughly that the piece wasn't to be found anywhere to confirm as this could have happened before at a previous timing belt change. This was probably the case because the metal that was left wasn't shining like a clean cut and was a bit dull and had bits of residue. Upon placing the CAS properly into the cam, it started up and sounded fine and was the bubbly little idle tick over that I have it set at on the computer. Concerns So, now I'm really confused at whether the timing is actually set up correctly at all. I don't fully understand the cam/crank timing so I don't really know whether the belt should be set up to be a tooth out. They did mark the positioning of the old belt with this horrible tip-ex the first time. Both times the crank could be turned around twice without interference so I'm now worrying that maybe the timing was meant to be out by a tooth. I do have 264 toda cams and I don't really know whether having the crank off by 1 results in anything opening earlier or later etc. Since it was always the CAS that was the problem, I never got to hear/feel how the car was/would have driven when it was on the original marked settings. I keep saying to myself that the marks were probably just done wrong by the guys there and it is now set up properly but ugh!!! I have always heard that if the crank is out by 1, the engine would barely run or at the very least, would be less than optimal. At the moment the car is driving fine but I've got this worry in the back of my mind that something could be wrong. I could swear it feels a bit laggier too but that could just be because I've been driven back to my home in my friend's R35 GTR which isn't as quick as mine once the turbo is going but has next to no lag. Furthermore, if it does turn out that the crank was meant to be off by 1, can this be rectified by adjusting the cam gears/CAS/timing on the laptop?

Hi all, have the following items for sale; 1. Standard R32 RB26 camshafts; $80 2. Standard R32 RB26 cam gears; $65 3. Standard R32 RB26 twin turbos; $150 4. Blitz SUS Twin Pod Filter Kit For R32 GTR + Standard R32 RB26 afm's; $180 5. Ultra Racing 2 Point Front Strut Brace For R32 GTR; $80 6. Pair of R32 GTR headlights, the RH headlight has some cracks in the chrome as pictured, LHS Great condition; RHS - $60 LHS - $100 Location: Nsw, Canley Heights 2166 Contact: Plat - 0466 554 92seven

hks2530 cam selection I need help selecting cams to best suit my 33 gtr with hks2530 turbos I have it narrowed down to two choices 1) Jun 264 10.5 IN, 256 10.5 EX 2) Tomei poncams 260 9.15 IN, 252 9.15 EX Which the tomei poncams have the best response? How would the jun cams compare in terms of response? How much more power would the jun cams make at top end? What other if any modification would be needed with the jun cams? Thanks Stephen

WTB - STEEL COOLANT PIPE, WATER PUMP, CRANK, CAMS AND CLUTCH Hi fellas, Trying to source the following parts for a RB26 (1995 R33 GTR): Steel coolant bypass pipe that screws into the side of the block (See photos) Water pump (See photos) Crank Poncams or Procams with assembly (Valves, etc) - preferably 270 degree Pull type clutch good for 450 hp (new or used)

Can I use stock cams in an N1 block? Gentlemen and ladies I have an RB26 N1 block and I have stripped down my stock RB26 block. I would like to build this block as an N1 engine. I am getting my crank blue printed. N1 oil pump and N1 water pump. Are the N1 cams the same as the stock ones? i read this on this site. SKYPER 0 120 posts Car(s):GTS-T Posted March 31, 2008 · Report post N1 cams have the same lift, duration as stock GTR cams but the central angles are different - http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html Like this Quote Can anyone clarify? thank you.

RB26 Tomei Type R Cams - Results? Trying to find some concrete info around the expected gains from these cams, 250 duration, 9.15mm lift. I've got a -9 setup car on e85 with all the usual stuff, including cam gears, dyno below, I'm mostly interested in response and low to mid range torque, though some more top end wouldn't be a bad thing, I just don't want it at the expense of low to mid range, it's a street car. Has anyone personally used these cams in a similar setup car and what was the result? I had a hard time finding anything solid in the dyno thread, as I'm interested in specific before and after from the cams themselves. I realise the notes around these talk about them being used on stock cat cars to minimise backpressure, I don't have a stock cat and I have full 3.5" from the merge.

Tomei Type-R Cams Drop in 250 9.15 (Intake and Exhaust) Only a dyno session old. Come with full install instructions and original boxes.