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Showing results for tags 'catch can'.
Found 16 results
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3 inch stainles twin pipe (drift sytle) 20 bucks 3inch rear straight muffer for r32 30 bucks r32 skyline factory rear floor matts good cond 40 bucks 2 litre custom alloy catch can with speed flow fittings 100 bucks r31 s3 front gunish good cond 20 bucks in car dvd player/cd mp3 aux input 3inch screen ebay brand works well 60 bucks custom made polished coilpack cover 10 bucks oil cooler has one line on spped flow fitting no relocter kit 50 bucks 4 inch dump pipe to cat has top flanges cut off 20 bucks rb25det starter 30 bucks in launceston 0409427055 is the best way to get in contact with me
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Hey guys.. I'm looking for a R33 GTST Manual Turbo Cluster (my revs aren't working past 3k if you know how to fix it please help) and also a catch can kit for my RB25DET, it's a non abs model so if I could get a can that fits in that area that would be great.. Also if anyone knows which catch can type is better (pros and cons) please let me know, between vented and non vented. Thanks!!
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Howdy My Fellow Boat Lovers, I have my old intake, catch & cover setup for sale from my current R33 GTS-t boat. I suspect it should fit R34 GT-t and R33/R34 GT-Rs with some minor manipulation as the strut towers are a touch different. The lot has been sprayed with black satin engine enamel - however would probably be nicer if it was powder coated. This was made by Adam at Weldspeed, ex-Plazmaman fabricator/welder. Comes with the follow (PS reservoir & bracket NOT included): 4" intake to suit high mount turbo (silicon joiner & clamps not included, unless I can find a spare one at home) 4" K&N pod filter 2.5L baffled catch can 3x -10AN fittings (cam covers, crank case vent) 1x -4AN fitting (for drain, can't find the cap but it's a standard male fitting) Intake Cover Location: Cabramatta, NSW 2166 Price: $500 -
Hey guys... Not a very frequent poster here so bear with me please. In the process of getting all the varying issues on my R34 sorted before I take it in for tune (boost was previously turned right down as I bed in a new head gasket). One of those 'issues' is with the intake piping, the oil breather line from the crank case is currently not connected to well, anything. It's just hanging down through the engine bay to under the car. Obviously this is not ideal and the tuner mentioned I would want to get some sort of catch can setup before bringing the car in. I don't want to feed the oil line back into the intake which I guess means I'll be venting it to atmosphere. After searching and reading through a tonne of threads on this forum and others I'm still no clearer as to what I need to buy unfortunately, as it seems all catch cans seem to have two inlets whereas I only appear to have one line that needs to be connected. Pic for reference, not exactly an up to date one unfortunately but it shows the line I'm talking about clearly enough. Can anyone advise me on this? Secondary question, from everything I've read for venting to atmosphere it's said the PCV should be blocked, is there any real issue likely to come from not doing that? Cheers -
Okay guys this is what is left from my semi-part out. Make me an offer, all prices are shipped within Canada. Please add 4% if using paypal. Aftermarket Parts Apexi Power FC (MAF Version) with two handheld controllers, ones is brand new ordered direct from Apexi, the other came with the power FC, and has been repaired, but is kinda glitch. Good to have for parts. $795 Greddy Catch Can, unbaffled sealed unit, 2 port. I bought this off a friend locally and never used it. Great looking catch can though, and awesme quality. $100 Bee R Rev Limiter Type B Universal. I bought this and also didn’t use it, because the next day I changed my mind and bought a Haltech. This is still sitting brand new in the box in my garage. A local guy is pending sale here, but cant afford it for another month or so, and money talks. $220 [NO PIC YET} Unknown brand suction kit without filters. There are no markings them, but they take a 4.5” cone filter I believe. The ones on it were wrecked and thrown out. $40 OEM R32 GTR Parts ECU $60 Intake Manifold /w Throttle Bodies $250 Fuel Rail /w FPR $90 MAF x2 $60 -
Hi all, Cleaning out the garage and have some parts for sale: Genuine Nissan Fuel filter: $15+post. AC Delco oil filter for RB: $5+post Used Greddy 1L catch can: $50+post (has small holes in the top for better breathing and comes with fittings so the stock diameter breather hose on an RB25 can slip right on) HEL Braided Clutch line: $50+post (R33 GTST) Custom alloy pod filter cover (R33): $100 pickup (was made for a high mount but could be used for low mount intakes) Prices are firm. Parts can be picked up from SW Sydney.
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How to block PCV for catch can What is the best method to block the pcv port for a catch can install? I took out the check valve, went to three different hardware stores and could not find a block of fitting with the same thread. What is the thread on this thing? I will order the proper fitting online. Unless there is a better option Thanks
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Breather tank/catch can/oil-air separator plumbing questions Hi all, Sorry, yet more questions. So, one of the previous owners of my car fitted a breather tank. Just before I acquired it it was looked over and some of the plumbing changed by Unigroup in Sydney. Attached are photos to show how it's plumbed in. From my research on this forum (very useful as always, thank you all!) and comparing to stock engine bays, it looks like the two breathers at the back of the cam cover are as stock, and are linked on the passenger's side to one of the turbos as stock. On the driver's side it's linked to the breather tank instead of linking to a PCV valve or whatever that thing on the side of the engine is, which is now blanked off. Currently the tank vents to the atmosphere through a little filter. The first aspect of this is I need to make it legal to pass rego. It only needs to be or look legal for 30mins, doesn't need to be an elegant solution. I tried blanking off the hose to the breather tank, but that either causes massive blow by or is pulling oil in large quantities from the top of the engine, as at idle it made piles of smoke. So I'm assuming the solutions are either to find a stock PCV valve and hose to connect onto the driver's side, or to take the filter out of the tank, hook that up to the pipe into the turbo, and blank off the passanger's side. Secondly, I'm curious if this setup is actually done properly. What makes more sense and what a lot of people on threads here seem to have done is blank off the turbo inlet and hook the passanger's side vent into the breather tank after combining with the driver's side pipe. Otherwise surely the system is still going back into the inlet charge, which defeats the purpose? Thank you very much for your help and time as always! -
RB26 Front Crank Seal Failure - Help Hey guys, needing some expert help with diagnosing as engine breathing/ventilation stretches my problems solving! Ill give as much related info as I can; Car Is Stagea 260Rs, making around 290awkw with reimax oil pump gears (slightly larger clearances on the crank than OEM if that helps), no catch can or different breathing set up. Had an undetected oil leak for two days before a serious leak occured suddenly. Pulled engine out as I suspected fractured oil pump gears due to larger than OEM crank clearances. Turned out to be a failed front Crank seal, seal has spilt in half, spliting into two round bits and the metal inside the seal now looks like a kitchen sink scour. The seal was replaced less than 3,000km ago. Ive done some research on SAU to try find some answers, and Im led to believe its something to Do with crankcase ventilation, moreso pressurization of the crankcase. Ive also spotted oil in the pre turbo intakes, and ic piping. Car also gives smoke off on WOT. Any input would be appreciated
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Oil going missing = air/oil separator time? I notice that when running the engine hard its now using some oil, but there's no smoke, and i cant see any oil leaks. I would have expected to see a little blue smoke if oil was getting consumed - can the engine be burning oil if there's no smoke? Should i get a catch can/air oil separator?
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RB26 Oil return question Hey guys, Ive read the oiling thread and still have a few questions as I havent be able to find many pictures. I have already had my cylinder head oil returns drilled, tomei oil pump, tomei oil restricter, tomei extended and baffled sump. All i have left is my catch can setup. I've seen the diagrams but not many pictures of people actually running it with both valve covers vented and the 2x sump vent connections. So id like to see pictures of how you guys routed the lines. Since I dont want lines running right across my valve covers. So where do you guys place your catch can? My ABS is deleted so I'd like to put my catch can there as i can run 2x -10 straight from my valve covers to the catch can. Ive read a few opinions but has anyone welded the 2 AN fittings on the exhaust side of the sump rather then intake side? That way i wouldnt have to run 2x -10an lines completely around my engine? When the sump has been vented is it still recommened to do the rear head oil drain and baffled cam covers? Thanks
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See pic. I re-routed my catch can hose as below. The hose i'm using is standard heater hose rated to 125 degrees. Yes i know it's not the correct hose i should be using. Question is, is it safe in the location I've routed it (circled in yellow). There are what i think are power steering/fuel lines in that location and i'm not sure how hot they get or if i'm putting myself in danger. Please advise before i end up with a car on fire....... Cheers -
Group A/Bathurst style oil separator I am looking to replicate the oil / air separator, but despite googling and searching through forums I cant find any info on what is inside the circle box that sits over the rocker covers. Secondly, can anyone confirm where the highlighted hose runs to? Lastly, the final catch can that sits behind the driver headlight does not seem to have a filter/breather. Does this also drain to the sump? Any tips or advice would be great!
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Hey all, My catch can filters were filthy with crap bubbling out and dripping everywhere, so when I changed the oil I gave them a good clean. Now that the filters aren't saturated in crap, there is quite a lot of vapour coming out of the filters. It seems to smell kind of sweet, doesn't smell like exhaust gas or anything like that. I would say the amount lessens or stays the same with revs - it doesn't appear to get any worse. Here are a couple of videos showing the vapour. https://photos.app.goo.gl/pnYO6bEGi3dFsCHk1 Keen to know what people think! Cheers, -
garrett gtx3582 with polished front and ceramic coated rear and braided lines $1900 steam pipe manifold with ceramic coating $700 tail external gate and screamer pipe $220 ceramic coated dump pipe $100 tig welded 4" turbo intake pipe and pod filter $150 greddy oil catch can and braided lines $150 mscn oil cooler and braided lines $150 turbosmart supersonic bov and drivers side cooler pipe suit ffp must remove washer bottle to fit or cut pipe to suit $250 1000cc bosch injectors and aeroflow fuel rail $550 total = $4170 I will sell the lot for $3600 my phone is broken at the moment so email me on [email protected] or send enquiries to a close friends number my name is Nigel but this number 0408 867 922 is my friends phone his name is grant please leave any questions or your contact number and ill get back to you as soon as possible. turbo is mint no shaft play steam pipe mani near new aswell the turbo and steam pipe mani both have new ceramic coating. 4" intake near new looks great fits perfect. bov works great no issues. injectors ran 98octane near new Located western suburbs NSW -
Hi guys, Apologies, I know this might seem like a stupid question to some of you. I've just bought an R32 GTR. Link ecu, single turbo etc. The crankcase breather setup is- all stock except breathing into a vented catch can instead of feeding back in before the turbo. Now based on previous experience this makes for a huge vacuum leak! Tonight I tried blocking off the pcv and simply breathing both valve covers into the catch can. The car idled at 900rpm (usually 1100rpm) and sounded slightly less 'lumpy'. The car is currently on stands so can't drive it unfortunetly. My question is...is it possible the car was set up and tuned with the stock but vented set up (vac leak). Or is that likely an uneducated modification by a previous owner. Obviously no mafs with the link ecu. But I cant see how the ecu can measure the air coming in through the pcv valve when off boost. Thanks heaps, Luke
