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Showing results for tags 'control'.
Found 6 results
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I did a search but couldn't find a topic on this specific to the R34. Has anyone installed an aftermarket cruise control on an R34 GTT? How hard is it to do? I do a lot of highway driving and hate the fact that I have to keep an eye on the speedo every minute
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Have been trying to tackle an issue with my R32 GTR's climate control unit for a while now, and finally got some time to try and work out what's wrong. Basically, when I push the 'mode' button, it doesn't change where air is blowing - nor when I push the windscreen button. The door mode actuator just doesn't seem to move at all. Here is what I have done and found so far, but i'm honestly stuck at this point: I've pulled the mode actuator out and pulled the 'locking' gear off, and re-plugged the unit in - and when attempting to change modes the actuator arm still doesn't spin (however, it can now be spun by hand). When carrying out the diagnosis built into the climate control unit, I get the '31, 32, 34, 35, 36' pattern displayed when in Step 3 - door mode position check. This indicates a connector issue, but the connector is definitely plugged into the actuator. The voltage from the pins on the loom that plugs into the actuator doesn't appear to change when I change modes - I thought they would (for example, I thought it would read different when at 'feet' vs 'windscreen'. The voltage readings I got (going from left to right with the pins at the bottom) were: 0v, 0v, 0v, 0v, 4.7v, 4.7v, 0v, 4.7v, 4.7v, 0v. Any help or assistance here would be much appreciated.
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Hi everyone. So my r34 gtt has had a gt3076 56trim with a .63 internal housing for some time now. I never can flog it due to the horrible boost creep. not to mention the kinda shit power from that turbo at that psi. So to fix the issue i got a .82 housing with a ported 37mm internal gate. Drove it today and it still creeps to about 1.3bar. but holds there where before it would keep going until it started to lean out (fart, crack ect.) this turbo is from gcg and the housing, i use a apexi avc-r controller, standard manifold (mild port), split dump from gcg, 3inch front pipe (i Think) to apexi hi silent back exhaust, no cat. So basically can someone explain or possibly rectify this issue (which seems to be common). if they are selling these things for rb25 they must have some form of boost control. I'm to far gone for a external gate as it defeats my original intention. thanks
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R34 GTT climate control So the problem is that the buttons on the Climate control unit for my R34 doesn't respond when the clock that tells the time starts to spaz out. for example the minutes will go from 0:00 to 0:59 and will repeat. during the time of this malfunction I can not use any of the button on the Climate Control Unit. - I have recently put in LED's in the unit. I have gotten another unit from my other r34 and it works then the problem comes back with the clock, and no response from the buttons anyone have any idea?
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Chasing a Apexi Boost control Kit to suit power fc for a r34 gtt Not paying drug money for used parts. If it's new I will pay more. Must be able to post Cheers 0419-856-391
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Hello and welcome to another new Tutorial! This can only be done in the Jap Spec S15's, ADM ones may share bulbs, and process to remove is similar, so you can follow along too with discretion. For this tutorial, all you will need it a few Phillips head Screw Drivers and the appropriate LED's. The LED's used include T4.2 LED's, but there are 2 different sizes for the Jap Climate Control buttons and Display Panel. (Currently, am unable to confirm the size of the Display Pannel LED's, So please let me know if you know what size they are so i can update here) As i was not sure of the size for the smaller LED's, i simply used the old LED holder which was inside the unit, and removed the old bulb, and inserted the new one, and made it a bit smaller by filing and sanding it down (Do this at your own discretion. I am not responsible for any damage caused to any of your equipment if you do this wrong) Once everything is ready, we can start with the tutorial! You will need to remove the unit from the center console. To do this, start by removing the shift knob, followed by the Shift Boot. Underneath you will find some screws towards the top part, undo these and gently begin prying at the sides of the center console, and with a bit of effort it should come out. Now you should see the screws holding the console in place, there will be 4 screws similar to those that were under the shift boot. Undo these, and the unit should slide out. Remove the clips from the back making sure not to rip the cables out of the clips. Now the unit should be free. Take your unit to a work bench for the next step! You will be able to see 4 screws (for the jap spec one, ADM may be different) behind the face of the unit, there are another 2 screwed into the green PCB board, do not remove those 2. Remove the 4 screws behind the face plate. Then you will see clips holding the 2 pieces together, there should be 3 clips on one side and 2 on the other. Gently release the clips with a tool of some sort, and the 2 pieces should come apart. DO NOT PULL TOO HARD AS THERE IS A CABLE HOLDING IT TOGETHER You should now be able to see 3 white colored LED holders and 2 black ones. From here simply swap them over. (in my case, as stated above, i had to modify the black ones because i do not know the size, so please let me know if you know. Thanks!) Polarity does matter, so from here you will need to put the unit back together, and test, if some of them light up and some don't, simply pull the unit apart again, and change the orientation of the ones which do not work, by reversing the polarity, they should now light up! Install the unit back in, and admire your work!
