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I have been using Platinum Pro Plug-in for my R34 GTR for awhile now, I see many people switching to Hall Effect Sensors for the RB26. Anyone have postive experience here? I’m planning out my RB28 build now and would like to know what is the involvment in switching stock sensors to these aftermarket trigger kits? I’m thinking to use this kit that places a Hall effect sensor at the exhaust cam and crank as well. Specifically this kit https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/nissan-rb-crank-cam-trigger-kit-twin-cam/

G'day guys, me again with the non running vq25det stagea, starting to nail down on components trying to diagnose my issue and noticed something while removing and cleaning my crank sensor i noticed metal fragments on the magnetic part of the sensor, so i cleaned then off, refitted the sensor and tried to give it a strart, and i noticed for the first time in a while it fired and tried to start on the first try, but on the second and third there was no fire, so i took out the sensor again, cleaned it again and same thing, fired first try, still no start, but on second and thirrd try its again not firing so my question is, could my sensor be faulty? what else could be causing this?

Hey guys, Sorry if this is in the wrong section. RB25 - R33 s2 GTST Recently my crankshaft pulley has developed some cracks after removing it to do a Tbelt and Water pump. A new stock one from Kudos Motorsport is 400 bucks and no one else carries them. I could only find the ROSS ones which are rated to 1000hp, way more than I need. My question is, has anyone used the china "japtek' crank pulleys? they are supposedly under driven but are completely solid with no rubber. I'm concerned about losing the damping effect of the stock crank pulley. Would it throw it out of balance or increase engine wear? Any help is appreciated. Cheers

Looking for an rb25 crank in good condition, if you have one thats useable and want to sell please ket me know, thank you ?

I purchased an RB30 block back in April and it just arrived here in te states. After reviewing the purchase I found out it did not have a crank cradle. I also found out that it wasn't interchangeable wuth the RB26 cradle. Can anyone help me out?

Hi All, Chasing a crank to suit RB26DETT, must be straight and in good condition, and have the long oil drive from a Late R32, R33 or R34 GTR. Let me know what you have. cheers

Hi All, I bought a complete R32 RB26 to use the head on a 26/30 and am now looking to offload the bottom end. It has had something go through it so it will require new pistons and a bore to 86.5mm or possibly 87mm. I'm looking for: Block - $150 Crank - $150 Rods & Pistons - $80 Or: Crank, rods & pistons - $200 Crank, rods, pistons & block - $300 I also have: RB26 sump modified to suit RWD - $100 factory oil cooler/heat exchanger - $30 AAC Valve - $50 Standard fuel rail modified to be twin entry - $50 You can contact me via PM or on 0427 123 414 Cheers, Shane

accumulation of stuff in my way. 1. r33 gtr nismo slave cyl with braided line - $120 2.r33 gtr pull type gearbox- $500 - has been opened at some stage has blue goo sealing it but was working fine in car when removed-no speedo drive 3.550cc top feed injectors sards/denso $250 4.spool h beam rb30 rods- barely used $400 5.r33 gtr front mount stock intercooler $160 6.stock gtr blow off valves and hard pipe-$150 7.nismo g max twin plate(old type) clutch pull type was pulled apart to get rebuilt. needs rebuild. $100 more to come once inspected items located in brisbane, happy to freight all of it except gearbox as it freakin heavy

- 32 gtr radiator GC $50 - 32 gtr intercooler $50 - 32 gtr intercooler piping with bov's and polished turbo pipe $150 - rb26 bottom factory bottom end with pick up, no sump perfect for rebuild $300 - 87mm cp pistons in GC $200 - rb26 eagle rods $150 - 87mm bored and honed rb26 block $200 match rods and pistons - 2x 32 gtr turbos and lines $200 - rb26 cams and cam gears $130 -rb26 long nose crank $300 have other parts sensors etc just stripped a motor but plans changed...also have 32 gtr in pretty good condition all panels front bar, brakes, abs, exhaust everything! Just txt or send a message on SAU located in brisbane need these parts gone 0421883199

After the following parts not in a great rush, will consider if the time is right and the price is reasonable. R33 S2 RB25 turbo block. Can be assembled with a knock not really too fussed as I will be stripping it down. Providing it hasn't thrown a leg out the side. R33 GTR crank. Must be good condition to put back into a block. R33 GTR rods. Good condition and haven't been damaged by bearing failure etc. Block and crank from SA preferably but will consider crank and rods from interstate. Not going to pay crazy money, nor what your mates mates grandmothers daughters son thinks its worth. Pm me pics or post here and we will work something out. Located in SA in the Adelaide hills. Cheers, Adam

Hi all I'm installing a hks gt-rs turbo on my r34 GTT. Read that I should prime it before I drive and to do that I need to cut the fuel supply or ignition. Could anyone recommend which I should do? Would I just remove a fuse and if so does anyone know which one? Also if anyone has any tips like pouring oil directly into the turbo before etc feel free to share! Cheers

R33 RB26DETT GTR crankshaft $450 — Gold coast Long nose (Oil pump drive) crankshaft In perfect condition, all journals have no damage. Removed from a running engine. (Has not had a spun bearing) Reason for removal was bottom end (was standard oem) had been sitting around for a while, would have needed a freshen up to use so decided to part out. $450 with warranty - pick up or Auswide freight available Approx $30 freight to sydney (insured and securely packaged) 0414596256 please call/text

I just needed the timing belt changed but even that turned out to be complex with this car. I knew I bought a well modified one but I expected most tuner garages would be able to set my mind at ease when changing a belt. I bought a new belt, tensioner, idler and water pump to go on, I thought that was easy enough but it took about an hour for them to get the uprated balancer off. I can say I got slightly angry at them when they attempted to use a crow bar instead of the correct puller tool to do this. Eventually they got the right puller tool and as expected, it came off nicely. It's good to know everything was nice and clean down there, no visible leaks, no major wear that needs looking into so I'm happy from that perspective. So, I did let them know that my timing was set at 20 degrees and that the intake and exhaust cams were offset at various mm settings on the HKS gears. Why on earth I found 'tip-ex' on the engine I will never know, surely there's a better way of determining the positions or some way of locking the cams/crank. If you thought that was a nightmare, this is where the trouble really begins and my mechanical knowledge probably doesn't help at this point: - The way they had marked it had the the crank offset by 1 tooth from its position (there is a little notch on the crank that shows this). They didn't align the gears and crank to where they are when you usually set a timing belt up because the said that the timing was different. I knew the engine was set up at 20 degrees so I just trusted that they knew what they were doing. At this point, all done, no interference and boom, CAS back on, in the center where it was marked with tip-ex. The engine didn't start, it just backfired and I'm suddenly panicking that they're breaking my car. So, they check a few things as they didn't seem to believe me when I said that I've never flooded the engine by just turning it on and off before so it shouldn't just flood randomly if it's set up properly. It does have big injectors though so I see their point. So after taking the packs off and checking all is where it should be, the engine, once again, backfires and doesn't start. Upon determining this was a timing issue, they proceeded to strip it all down again and at this point said they had no choice but to put the crank at the notch, put the cam gears at their set positions and try again. All done, ready to start and the car just started backfiring again and at this point, they were saying that I needed to get the person who built the engine to tell me how it was set up so that they could get it right. I pulled out my phone and gave an experienced engine builder a call who said that the problem sounded like they had snapped the little 'D' inside the CAS off and that no matter where the CAS was positioned, I'd never have the correct timing. We checked, and I had to put the builder on the phone with the mechanic as they were trying to tell me that I was misunderstanding but I knew what was going on now, the 'D' was missing from the cam and thus the CAS wasn't positioned correctly. The builder told them to inspect thoroughly that the piece wasn't to be found anywhere to confirm as this could have happened before at a previous timing belt change. This was probably the case because the metal that was left wasn't shining like a clean cut and was a bit dull and had bits of residue. Upon placing the CAS properly into the cam, it started up and sounded fine and was the bubbly little idle tick over that I have it set at on the computer. Concerns So, now I'm really confused at whether the timing is actually set up correctly at all. I don't fully understand the cam/crank timing so I don't really know whether the belt should be set up to be a tooth out. They did mark the positioning of the old belt with this horrible tip-ex the first time. Both times the crank could be turned around twice without interference so I'm now worrying that maybe the timing was meant to be out by a tooth. I do have 264 toda cams and I don't really know whether having the crank off by 1 results in anything opening earlier or later etc. Since it was always the CAS that was the problem, I never got to hear/feel how the car was/would have driven when it was on the original marked settings. I keep saying to myself that the marks were probably just done wrong by the guys there and it is now set up properly but ugh!!! I have always heard that if the crank is out by 1, the engine would barely run or at the very least, would be less than optimal. At the moment the car is driving fine but I've got this worry in the back of my mind that something could be wrong. I could swear it feels a bit laggier too but that could just be because I've been driven back to my home in my friend's R35 GTR which isn't as quick as mine once the turbo is going but has next to no lag. Furthermore, if it does turn out that the crank was meant to be off by 1, can this be rectified by adjusting the cam gears/CAS/timing on the laptop?

Hey i am looking to buy a broken CAS sensor, Part number: 23731 5l300. just needing the slotted disc on the inside as my current one is warped.

Farndon (more info below) full billet counterweight standard stroke crank (2.6L), apexi 86mm std bore pistons and Carrillo rods. This gear was installed in a motor built by JHH racing, but never ran before getting pulled down for a different setup. The crank is used and has been crack tested since last use, the Pistons and rods are both new. A JHH Inspection report is available which outlines the mint condition of this assembly. Make no mistake - if you want a high HP high revving 2.6 then this is some of the best gear available. I have a heap of other GTR parts for sale - please contact me on 0403221200 if you have any queries. $4500 for the full set The item is located in Gladstone QLD, but can be freighted any where in Australia. Please contact me for a freight quote. ****************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************** Farndon does machining for Apexi, BMW, Mercedes, Jaguar etc, is all made in Britian and is top quality (see below extract from their website). Apexi cranks were almost exclusively made by these guys. Extract from website: CRANKSHAFTS We offer a full design, development and manufacture service for crankshafts machined from solid steel billet, cast or forged material. All crankshafts manufactured are fully stress relieved and crack detected prior to shipping by Magnetic Particle Inspection (MPI) in accordance with BS6072. We also offer a full regrind service including MPI. Highly versatile manufacturing processes allow an infinite number of crankshafts configurations to be produced including: Cylinders 2, 4, 5,6,8,10,12 or 16 Plane Single/Multi Straight, Flat or Vee Max. Length 1,600 mm Materials To suit application Manufacture Billet Any type of Crankshaft, Heat Treated to Raise Core Strength Forged Farndon’s Own EN19 Lotus Twin Cam, Customer’s Own or Special Order Cast Customer’s Own or Special Order Finish Nitrided to Depth Required Balance Fully Balanced Ready For Installation Inspection Full Metrology Service Marking Engraved to Identify Origin Standard Features Custom Web Forms Including Wedging & Knife Edging, Heavy Metal Balancing, Splining, Gear Splining, Gear Cutting, Oilway Drilling (Pin to Main or Full Cross Drilled) See website for more info: http://www.farndon.com/crankshaft-manufacturer.html

WTB - r34gtt / Stagea Neo rb25det CAS After one in/near Brisbane or I will pay for postage.

WTB - STEEL COOLANT PIPE, WATER PUMP, CRANK, CAMS AND CLUTCH Hi fellas, Trying to source the following parts for a RB26 (1995 R33 GTR): Steel coolant bypass pipe that screws into the side of the block (See photos) Water pump (See photos) Crank Poncams or Procams with assembly (Valves, etc) - preferably 270 degree Pull type clutch good for 450 hp (new or used)

R33 Parts Cleanout! Garrett Gtx3582 + turbo manifold + exh + 2 sets of rims drift tek + rotors + sway bars Hi there Doing a big shed cleanup. GOLD COAST VARSITY LAKES All parts off my R33 gtst s2 1996 Genuine Garrett GTX3582. T3 .82 ( i think) little bit of shaft play + 32mm Go Pipes Turbo manifold dual 40mm wastegate. (A few tiny pinholes need a spot weld) + full 3.5" dump pipe and 3" exhaust including cannon and resonator (and pipe with flange to replace resonator) ALL 3 $2500 will split if asked R33 s2 brake rotors set of 4, little surface rust, pretty good life left $20 R33 s2 sway bars front and rear $20 ea R33 crank needs a linish $20 18x8 silver FX motorsport wheels, hero tyres on front good tread, rear micky thompson no tread, removed from r33 $300 18" black drift tek style wheels, front 18x9.5 225 40 18 good tread, rear 18x10.5 235 40 18 no tread, removed from r33 looked awesome! Only changed wheels to get more rubber on the read, $800

Hi Guys I've tried reading multiple related threads but i can't seem to find any that entirely relate to my issue. My GTR randomly starts whenever it wants. It cranks fine but just struggles to start. I find it struggles more when warmer, but occasionally doesn't start when cold also. I've replaced coilpacks, spark plugs, ignitor. I've re-grounded all the earthing points. I've changed the battery I've played around with the cranking ignition timing on the Power FC hand controller It's got a forged motor and running a power fc with supporting mods. Sometimes when I give it gas while cranking it helps and other times it makes no difference. the thing which i can't figure out is that whenever i connect a jumper pack to the battery, it always starts up. Any ideas what this could be? Thanks

I bought one of the crank trigger setups that SAU user 'murrayis' designed and had made in China. Basically you get rid of your annoying and unreliable crank angle sensor. It's most of the way there towards a crank trigger setup which ordinarily you'd pay 2 odd grand for from Ross etc. To get this one working you'd need to buy the 2 sensors and then get your balancer notched. I don't know much else about the technicalities behind it so if interested have a read of this thread rather than ask questions here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452152-open-source-rb-trigger-kit/ Anyway, was a bit of an impulse buy as I was going to build an RB30 but can't be stuffed at the moment. Bought the kit for $420, sell for $300 plus $20 postage.

Nismo GT Le-mans Group A turbos. RR581's Both were rebuilt less than 2000kms ago by Turbologic, one however will need a rebuild due to something getting sucked down the intake pipe and damaging the bearings and compressor wheel. The housings have no damage at all and would just need a rebuild, the other one just had a full build with new shaft, wheels, bearings and seals. These were making 558.4 hp at the treads on my current GTR with other supporting mods. I have spoken with CAMS and these can be used in events such as Targa Tasmania and are the largest turbos allowable for competitions that require "standard" turbo configurations. Looking for $600 ono for the pair throw me some offers...need them gone this week... Have a few standard R32 GTR parts for sale aswell... R32 GTR Crank $200 (cheapest one on here) R32 GTR Sump with Diff $100 R32 GTR Aircon Compressor $100 Standard R32 GTR camshafts with gears - $100 Standard RB26 intake manifold, no throttle bodies, does not leak and worked fine, just changed it for a plasmaman $60 Standard RB26 injectors great condition, set of 6 includes fuel rail $160 ono Standard N1 GTR front lip - $150 Universal carbon wing at the moment the stands have spacers on each side to fit in the rear stock mount of the r32 gtr however front holes need to be drilled, had it on my r32 gtr before going a different direction is height adjustable i think 25cm and 40cm and is approx 155cm long, and about 26cm wide - $350 in great condition and has heavy duty feet for stands. I can ship anything at the buyers expense, and open to offers on everything its all clogging up space and needs to go. Contact me via PM or on 0434817247 and ill try to get back to you asap. All parts are located in Wollongong, about 1hr south of Sydney.