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I have one of those (so called) rare Nismo LCD screen dashes. I'm not really fond of it to be honest, as ive never had the screen working (dont have the required setup). Basically, it came with my car when i bought it from the dealership, and it wasnt working. I noticed the screen behind the plastic casing had a bit of dust on it, so i decided to take it apart and wipe the screen. BIG mistake. ..The screen smudged at the bottom where i wiped, and left a mark which has never gone away. To be honest im not that fussed with all the "fancyness" of the dash, as id rather get a better look at what speed im doing then be looking at a blank screen at the moment. So i was wondering... 1. Is it worth keeping? Can the screen be fixed? And if so what computer/device do i need to run something on the screen? who can install it? or 2. Should i sell it/ swap it (and keep it in storage) with a regular stock R33 Gtst dash? Im not really fussed by the fact the screens got a scratch to it, as right now im leaning towards finding a stock dash with regular kms and swapping it over, still keeping the nismo one. If its worth getting fixed and it can be easily, ill consider looking down that path thanks for any opinions

Hey i'm after an R33 series 2 dash cluster. Must be between 80 XXX and 90 XXX preferably, or even lower than that! and must be in great condition. Live in Perth, WA, local would be best but i'll see what this ad generates. Also R33 GTR clusters will be considered, as i think theyre a straight swap and the same as gtst???? Cheers

Hey all, Saw a member's R34 cluster and it had a really nice carbon fibre looking bezel / fascia with chrome circles that surround the dash cluster's gauges. Looks mint and really updates the console. Was searching online and I found a person was selling one for an AT back in 2009, other than that I can't even find a picture of it anywhere. If you know where I can find something like this let me know.

hey folks im looking to buy a brand new r32 gtr dash (preferably one without a lump) i purchased one over ebay that was in good condition with no lump, but after fitting it and fitting the air con vents into place i can tell the dash has been out in the sun for a while and the edges/seems are starting to kind of lift up, very hard to explain.. does anyone know where i can buy a BRAND NEW dash for a r32 skyline ? looking to buy one asap cheers

Mines 320km speedo cluster in awesome condition, all mounting brackets are intact etc. Everything works perfectly, was removed from Jenna's Gtr as it's up for sale. $300 delivered registered post anywhere in Oz.

Bid of an odd one. Recently Ive heard some strange noises coming from under the dash infront of me somewhhere. It sounds like a combination of noises - whirring motors on and off and some clicking, almost like a solenoid malfuunctioning. There seems to be no effect to the car, things are otherwise working normally but I have no idea what this is. Something is screwing up, that much I know. Any ideas? This happen to you? What could it be? car is otherwise mostlly standard. thanks

Does anyone know of any triple gauge holders you can get for the R34 N/A to sit in the center dash where the little imprinted storage space is? Ive looked at the GTT ones of ebay but it looks like you have to drill into the dash to hold em in. The dash isnt like falcons and commodores where you can unclip the center bit and then the gauge holder will clip in. If there are any where can i get em from, or will i need to get one custom made?

Hey all, It's cold, and i'm tired, and i'm sick of working on my car atm. RB25DET NEO swapper R32 gts-t chassis. Power windows, and the dash (tacho and fuel sender) is not working. Cannot find any wiring diagrams at all for the power windows, i looked through the R32 GTR complete service manual and i cannot find anything for the life of me. Doing shitloads of googling and it seems a few other people on here and GTROC etc etc are having the same issuse. Power windows don't respond to any inputs and they are not getting any power to them. Does anyone have any idea how they get power? It must be pulled from the same spot as the dash gets power from yeah? I will have a look at some wiring diagrams and try and chase it later. I'm just over it at the moment haha Also why is there not an electrical/wiring subforum?

Hi Guys, I'm thinking about going in a different direction with my car and as such i'm looking into selling my Haltech setup. Everything is brand new still in the box and it includes pretty much everything Haltech sell. 1 x PS2000 IQ3 Street Kit which comes with ECU, Harness, IQ3 Display Dash, CAN Wideband and Sensor, Free Mini Can Hub. 1 x Haltech I/O Expander 12 Inc 2.5m Flying Lead Harness 1 x Flex Fuel Composition Sensor - Suit 3/8 hose (inc plug & pins) 1 x Coolant Temp Sensor - Small Thread 2 x 150 PSI "TI"Fuel and Oil Pressure Sensor 1 x 4 Bar GM Map Sensor 1 x Boost Control Solenoid RRP for everything is $5400 but im putting it up for $4500 ONO. I will not split unless everything is spoken for. Pickup is preferable but will post at buyers expense. Items located in Rouse Hill, NSW and best contact is 0403858714. Thanks, Brett

I'm after some LED dash lights for my r34 gtt. Now I have the commonly used kit sold by Zero Point Electronics in blue, but basically I'm after a similar kit in PURPLE. I can't seem to find any purple LED replacement lights as of yet, so I'd really appreciate if someone could steer me in the right direction. Cheers

Hi new to the sau Just wondering if anyone would know where I could get a 320kph speedo for r33 skyline? Exactly like the pics I've uploaded. Any help would be great I can't find one anywhere loll

Hello everyone. This thread is my Diy/walkthrough of a s15 dash conversion in my r32 sedan I do really like the r32 dash but having an s15 as dream car. The s15 dash has always been the best looking dash in my opinion. Iv had some lazy spare interior parts had gotten the dash i swapped for a part which was cut n stuff for his a31. But long story short. Iv taken the factory one out and chucked in the s15 one in to get an idea.. i havent checked what mount fits or not yet. Ill be cutting my door cards so the door can close also doing my sounds while i have time cause some drivetrain things are broken lol Will keep an update, Now that iv made the thread. Ill try be more indept as i go along also. Cheers.

Hi all Am about to do a digital dash swap in my 32 GTR, and am currently investigating the speedo signal issue. I'll be converting the car to run an electronic speed sensor using an R33 GTR unit, and wiring that into the ECU to give it a speed signal. My question is, will I also have to do something with the atessa system, since the OEM speedometer will no longer be fitted? Am struggling to get clarity anywhere as to whether the R32 Atessa system uses the OEM speedometer output for any of the stuff it does. Any insight will be appreciated!

Hi all I have just completed a PowerTune standalone digital dash install into my R32 GTR, and found there wasn't much guidance online around some of the nuances involved into doing this into the R32 GTR. I apologize in advance for not taking many photos of the project, but I will do the best I can to recollect and detail what is involved. Many hiccups came from how the R32 GTR gets its speedo signal to the different computers in the car, as me removing the OEM speedo causes that signal to be lost and messes with the HICAS and Power Steering systems in the car. Removing the OEM cluster also meant my ECU lost its speed reference, messing with any speed-related settings in the ECU itself. I.E launch control. It was super scary going into this with so many unknown factors, so my hope is that this helps at least one person do the same swap. For reference, this install was done in a car with a Link G4+ ECU, however the premise will be the same for any ECU. As I get time I can upload whatever photos and videos I have from the project in an attempt to make things clearer, and am happy to do my best to help others with the install. However, I am not super active on these forums, so flick me an instagram message and i’d be happy to lend a hand (@__DEZIAH). First up, everything we used to install the Powertune dash and do all of the plugs: PowerTune Digital Dash + GPS Unit Mako Motorsports R32 Dash Mount Mako Motorsports LED Lights: Indicators, High Beam, 4WD, Check Engine Light, Door Open, Handbrake, ABS, Battery, Oil Pressure Wiring basics (Wiring tools, wire, loom tube, heat shrink, insulation tape etc) Link CAN Expansion Loom Digital Dash Fuel Level Dampener (My particular one was from Spiyda) OEM Nissan R33 GTR Gearbox Speed Sensor 1x 8 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 1x 12 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 1x 4 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 2x 2 Way DTM Deutsch Connector Some of these parts may not be needed depending on how you want to do your install. I wanted to retain the functionality of the OEM harness, so that I could swap back to the OEM speedo if necessary and have it all work (all i'd have to do is reconnect the OEM speedo cable to the gearbox). I wanted it to be easily removable and tidy so we went with deutsch connectors to make the connection to the dash. I wanted the LED lights to be external to the dash for my warnings (and indicators, high beam etc), and most importantly I wanted fuel level to function and display on the dash. Preparing for the installation Start by removing anything and everything possible that could be in your way. Remove all of your interior trim pieces around the cluster, remove the OEM cluster, steering wheel etc etc. You want as much room to work as you can to make this process as easy as possible. I'd also suggest dropping your steering column to its lowest point to give you that extra little bit of room too. Wiring The LED's This was most likely the most time consuming part of the install. Because I wanted to retain functionality of the OEM harness, alot of splicing was required here in order to make that happen. I also wanted it to be tidy and easily removable, hence the use of multiple deutsch connectors. Below is what pins we spliced from the OEM harnesses, and what Deutsch connector we put them into. You don’t have to copy this exactly, and there may be a more optimal setup of where to pin everything, but this is what we did and it works. Function OEM Power OEM Ground DTM Power DTM Ground Indicators - Left 4 16 DTM 12 - Pin 1 DTM 8 - Pin 1 Indicators - Right 3 16 DTM 12 - Pin 2 DTM 8 - Pin 2 ABS 25 7 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 8 - Pin 5 Battery 25 17 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 4 CAT Temp Sensor / CEL 25 29 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 5 Handbrake 25 12 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 6 High Beam 18 19 DTM 8 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 7 Door Open 25 30 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 8 4WD 31 32 DTM 8 - Pin 4 DTM 12 - Pin 9 Oil Pressure 25 34 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 10 These were wired into the Mako Motorsports LED’s which came with my dash, so it was as simple as matching them up and off we went. Be sure to test all of them as you go, as you don’t want to be chasing issues once you’ve completed all of your wiring. I have a bunch of videos showing all of this, but i’m unsure how to upload them here (or if I even can). Wiring The Fuel Level Dampener + Fuel Level The fuel level dampeners purpose is to stop your fuel level jumping all over the place. Without this, your fuel level signal will be jumping up and down and be an absolute nightmare to look at. The dampener requires a 5v power source to work, so we used one of my ECU’s spare 5v outputs to provide that power. My ECU also has a ‘sensor ground’ input, so we used that for the ground signal. Pin 6 on the factory harness is the fuel level signal, so that was spliced into to give the dampener the signal it was after. And it was then sent to the ECU using one of the spare sensor inputs. I did not bother wiring up a low level warning LED, as I could set up my dash to display one if I wanted. But who really relies on one of those to tell you that you’re running low on fuel in a car like this. The signal that comes out of my fuel dampener then runs to an Analogue input on my ECU, and the ground goes to the sensor ground input on my ECU. My ECU can now see my fuel level (after I calibrate it of course - of which I will outline further down). Installing The New Speed Sensor The R33 GTR speedo sensor slots straight in and works in the R32 GTR transfer case. Meaning this is a literal swap in and out job. Remove the one bolt holding your speedo cable in, unscrew the cable, then use a flathead to leverage the sensor out of the transfer case. You will lose some fluid doing this, so be prepared to re-fill it. Note: you can fill the transfer case back up through the gear shifter, as that is connected to the transfer case, NOT the gearbox in the R32 GTR. Wiring The R33 GTR Speed Sensor Due to the factory mechanical speedo drive in the R32’s, removing the OEM cluster creates a lot of issues. The car converts the mechanical signal that the cable gives the cluster, and converts it into an electronic one which is then sent out to multiple other computers in the car. This affects things like HICAS, Power Steering, and any ECU speed related controls. This means if you remove this connection, lots of this stuff breaks. Fortunately, it DOES NOT use this for the Atessa system, so your 4wd system WILL NOT be affected. There was so much conflicting information around this, with no clear answers. I have now done this myself, and can confirm 4wd works perfectly fine. I do not have an aftermarket 4wd controller. Our original hope was that we could wire the R33 GTR electronic speedo drive straight into the OEM speedo input wires on the loom (pin 13 for power, and pin 14 for ground), as in theory everything else would then work as intended. Power steering won’t get upset, and HICAS would still work normally. However when we attempted this, we made a mistake with the pinouts in our DTW connector, meaning it was not working. So we ended up wiring the electronic speedo drive directly to the ECU instead. Only then did we realize we had wired it incorrectly, so that it could have likely gone into the OEM location and all worked as intended. However we haven’t been able to confirm this, so it would be awesome if someone else giving this a try, can check and confirm. The rest of this guide assumes that this will not work. All of my calibration stuff in my ECU software can be found further down into the writeup. Power Steering Issue Explained The R32 GTR has a ‘speed-assisted’ power steering system, which adjusts how much power steering assistance you get based on how fast you are going. This means you get assistance at lower speeds, but it reduces as your vehicle speed increases in an attempt to improve overall steering feel. Whilst an awesome system in concept, when you’re messing around with the speedo sensor, it breaks it. Once your oem speedo signal no longer works, around 30 seconds to a minute after you begin driving your power steering will become extremely heavy and basically turn off. IT goes into some form of failsafe mode as it gathers something has broken, and reverts to the lowest assist setting it has. You’ll have found this happen if you’ve ever snapped a speedo cable too. The OEM system uses a voltage regulator based on speed to determine how much power is send to the power steering unit, ultimately adjusting therefore how much assistance you get. This leaves us with two possible fixes. Power Steering Issue - Fixes First fix (the one I did), wiring in a voltage converter and setting it at a certain voltage to give the motor a constant voltage at all times. This means your power steering will have a constant feel at all times, so its a bit of a balancing act getting it right. Too much voltage going to the motor, steering feel will be extremely light at high speed. Too little, and steering will be too heavy at low speed. I purchased one from Jaycar (part number AA0236), and wired it in, bypassing the OEM system. Ryno did an awesome writeup of how to do this, so i’ll link that below. Personally, I set my voltage regulator to around 6 volts, as I liked the steering feel. This is all up to personal preference, and I dont mind it being a bit heavier at low speeds to have great feel when i’m actually driving. (Ryno’s writeup: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453968-r32-heavy-power-steering-how-to-disable-speed-variable-assist-steering-and-control-power-assistance-level/). I mounted mine above my brake pedal - that way the metal heat sink can dissipate heat effectively, its not in the way of anything, and I can easily adjust it if I ever feel the need. I’m sure you could also get fancier and wire this to some sort of dial and be able to control your power steering assist on the fly. But at this point, I just wanted it working. The second fix, which is more complicated - is to use your ECU to control the speed sensitive power steering. I’m not super clued up on this, but you could essentially use your ECU to control the power steering motor. This link here detailed a bit of how to do this, but I never delved into it as it doesn’t bother me. https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/reinstating-speed-sensitive-power-steering-without-hicas.507017/ HICAS Removing the speedo signal will also break your HICAS. However I absolutely hate HICAS, so it is removed from my car, meaning this is a non-issue for me. I’m sure there is also a way to fix this, but it is likely along the same lines as getting your ECU to control your hicas motor. Otherwise, be noted that HICAS will either outright not work, or act very strangely if you remove your OEM speed signal. Wiring In The Dash So at this point, you should have functional warning lights (indicator etc), power steering should be working again, and your ECU should be able to see your vehicle speed and fuel level. Now comes the easy part, wiring the dash itself. This particular dash just needed a 5v power signal (it comes with a 12v - 5v converter), so we used that directly into one of the cars ignition sources. You need to ensure you use a good, strong signal for this, otherwise the dash will have issues with running under power and may not operate correctly. We went for an ignition source instead of accessory as I didn't want or need the dash running whilst I am just listening to music etc. We then made a new ground for the dash and put it onto a bolt that goes through the chassis. This particular dash uses CAN to get the signal from the ECU and came with the required wiring. We plugged the supplied plug into CAN-2 on the ECU, and screwed the wires into the back of the dash. Not much more explanation really needed here. Calibration Now in theory, everything should be visible and working. All your signals and warning lights should work, your dash should power on, and your ECU should be able to see everything. Now, we just need to teach the ECU what everything does and means. Then, we need to tell the ECU to actually broadcast this data to the dash. (The calibration data is all on my laptop which I do not currently have access to - I will upload further when I can). My speed calibration settings: My fuel level calibration settings: My CAN broadcast settings: My custom fuel level CAN broadcast settings:

wheel spacers $50 used only for trial fit oil relocator sandwich plate (new) $50 rb 26 power steer pump $50 works perfect only changed due to my dry sump set needed a rb25 pump mines centre console guages $200 HKS cam gears $225 GTR door trims with tweeters $200 dash vent (new) $50 320km 10krpm dash $250 polished twin turbo pipe $100

Hey guys, just installed an impul 300k dash cluster in place of the stock one. First thing i found that the plugs don't match with the impul cluster so i had to move a few of the pins in order for it to operate properly. Now the problem i'm having is that the speedo will read double and then sometimes will revert to reading normal..? Can anyone shed some light on this issue. Also i'm not getting full time power steering as i had before??

So this morning I went to drive and when I turned on my car the tachometer would not work, and the ABS and TCS light stayed on. Turned off, waited 30 seconds, and tried again with same result. Obviously there was an issue, so I shut her off and drove my daily, as I was already late I couldn't afford to sit there and diagnose it. I came home in the afternoon and decided to check it out. Only, it is now working fine. YAY FOR INTERMITTENT! So a few things: - I drove it to work on Monday with no issues, been sitting since then. Never happened before. - It was raining this morning, and it was early when I started it (morning dew early). It has never been an issue before, but obviously in the afternoon, all the wetness and moisture has disappeared. - ABS and TCS rely on wheel speed sensors, that is what connects them, but the not sure how the tacho receives it's signal. - Every other gauge including triple gauges worked, and back lights worked. Feel free to ask me any questions. The only place I would start looking would be behind the dash, but honestly I have no idea. I will try and start it tomorrow morning early and hopefully nothing is wrong and it was just an omen to not drive my car for some reason today. Cheers.

Hey guys, Some stuff for sale since I don't own a skyline anymore. This is the only remaining parts so don't ask if I have this or that part lying around please. 1. Full R33 GTS-T brake kit. Includes 5 stud hubs, all calipers, all brake lines, all pads (rears are good, fronts are a little low), and stock disc rotors (need machining before use). The front hubs still have knuckles attached for ease of fitment. Asking $500 ono. I paid a lot more! 2. R33 Dash with passenger airbag. Dash is in mint condition, and included is the passenger airbag module and control unit. Asking $100 ono. Again, I paid more. Located inner west Sydney 2041, but can be located near Castle Hill area on weekends. I may be able to help with delivery within reason. Contact me via PM or text (as I don't always have my phone on me) O425 O93 384 Cheers, Mitch

After doing a clean up realized how many bits and pieces I have lying around so time to fund my trip to the snow (or more car stuff). GTR parts: Stock air box, no snorkel - $100 Original tape deck, working when removed recently - $50 Dash, NO BUBBLES, great condition, no side and centre vents - $150 Gtst parts: 3inch stainless bellmouth front/dump pipe with oxygen sensor to suit 32/33 turbo. Used 1 year couple of scrapes on the bottom, not a cheap knock off - $150 Complete drivers door incl trim - $50 Front seats with rails - $50 Rear bar and REO bar, couple of scratches but not damage or cracks - $50 Boot and spoiler, separated with plugs in the boot lid, good condition minor scratches - $60 Speedo cable - $20 Climate control, no plastic cover - $20 4x25mm wheel spacers, 5 stud - $60 Stock springs x4 - $20 Fog lights - $50 FYI for and panels are all gun metal grey Priced to go. Prefer pick up, but can work out postage. Located near Menai, pm or message for pics 0425606137 Cheers Tiernan

Hey guys, After some advice, I have purchased a tomei r32 gtst dash cluster and the back of it is yellow/orange (indicating it is a s1 cluster) My r32 is a 1992, meaning it a series 2. This means that the dash cluster will not work correctly without rewiring/modification. I have rear the tach and high beam light won't work, and also the oil pressure warning light will always be on. What I am wondering is if anybody would be able to supply dash cluster pinout diagrams for both series 1 and 2 r32 dashes. Or if anybody knows how to get a S1 dash working correctly. Or if anybody knows a good nissan auto-electrician on the Gold Coast that would be able to wire this up for me. Thanks in advance. - Justin

Having a garage clean out! All prices ono! everything located 15 mins from Geelong (3222), would be willing to send if buyer includes postage fee! postage quotes can be obtained through auspost website! S1 R33 cluster 58xxxx kms $150 4x114.3 wheels plus excellent tyres (road worthy tyres) 80% tread all round. (stock 180sx wheels) $150 ono SR20 water pump $40 HIDs hi/lo beam, BRAND NEW never used! 55w, 12v,12000k, H4 - $50!!! ($80-$120 new) HIDs H7 6000k, 35w, 12v, also brand new never used! - $40 worth 80 new. SAAS gauges - $30 each or $50 for both (includes wires and a temp sensor) OIL TEMP + WATER TEMP DRIFT gauges - water temp and volts + wires plugs etc $45 each or $80 for both R33 S2 front bar fog + indicator lights (I think its passenger side) $40 SCA pod filter with flex hose + clamps (good for NA cars) $20 R33 rear tail lights $80 pair 19' osaka 114.3X5 (ford nissan) 2 rims 1 tyre $100 tyre is -245/35 R34 GTT stock standard catylic convertor - $20 Prices are ono pickup is from Drysdale 3222 or can send via buyers request. Contact - Daniel 0466 103 384 txt or call.

Was looking into a variety of options for gauges and rev counters etc. and thought it would probably be cheaper just to get a dash that does everything. Found this puppy on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Race-Technology-Programmable-Digital-Dash2-PI-AIM-Stack-/160690415217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2569e52671 or there's the racepak from Haltech http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Racepak-IQ3-dash-EFI-interface-/370582798469#vi-content what are you guys using? what do you recommend? I don't have a particular need for data logging, although it would be nice. after buying the dash, what sort of costs are you looking at to get it installed? I wanna see some photos too of them installed. show us ya dash!

R34 Middle stereo surround, must be in mint condition with no scratches. as seen here

Various R32 GTST Coupe parts for sale - final clear out of bits and pieces.. Have the following parts from R32 GTST Coupe for sale... please call or text me on 0404 178 585. Located in Brisbane (10 mins nth of city) PRICES (shipping is extra at buyers expense): JDM LED Taillights - as new condition - $120 pair Front and Rear alloy adjustable strut braces - $75 each 3inch straight through cat back exhaust into 2 x 2.5 inch tips, bolts straight onto RB20DET - no mufflers (sounds awesome) - $150 Handbrake and cables linkages etc all complete - $60 Autometer shift light - $50 Front nolothene bushes - $20 each Instrument Cluster with 150k on clock - $40 Rear quarter internal c pillar trims / window surrounds as new condition, perfect vinyl and backing (L & R) - $80 each Rear quarter interior trims / door cards as new condition (L & R) - $50 each Rear seats complete good condition $40 Passenger seat on rails - $40 good condition upholstery Racepro ball valve adjustable boost controller - brand new never used - $80 Racepro BOV - same as Turbosmart Type 2 - brand new never used - $100 (RRP over $250) Headlights - no cracks in glass (H4 Bulb style - selling without bulbs) - $30 each Interior Light - immaculate - $20 Window visors - $20 Front and rear window wipers - $15 each - good condition, no rust Front and rear window wiper motors (both work) - $30 each Rear vision mirror absolutely mint - $25 Air con control plastic cover with buttons - $20 Interior A pillar trims - no cracks - $20 each Plastic R32 Skyline kick panels - $20 each Bonnet release mechanism - $20 Can do full rear cut from A pillars back or cut rear quarters... straight as - pls call to discuss All motor, gearbox, diff, interior (apart from what is mentioned above), wiring, suspension, exterior panels are sold. All prices are ex shipping, pick up from Brisbane (10 mins nth of city). Please call or text me on 0404 178 585.

WTB: R32 GTR Dash Hi All, Im after a dash for a R32 GTR with no bubble and in as good condition as possible. many thanks.